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Kate51

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I just got educated (speaking of Bauways) madvapes has a NEW 801 cartomizer. I've never seen or heard of one before, I'll fetch the link to read up if anyone else is interested.
They've had some very good reviews, for 510 people they can be adapted.
Mine will not get here till tomorrow (I hope), so will find out for myself if they're decent lasting. One thing about a cartomizer is there's less scorching (according to veterans) so have very high hopes they'll be an improvement. And at under $3 it's a bargain even if they don't last. I use a 3.7v stick, there is a video review posted using 5v PV's, and the reviewer (Leggomyears, aka Dave) is thrilled with them.
I don't know how these compare to 801 Mega's, if it's the same thing couldn't say. I've not used either one yet.

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GoodDog

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Gooddog has requested that I post my findings based on my experience with 510 atomizers that I purchased from various Suppliers.

I bought ten 510 atomizers (I am not going to name the vendors–and it is not their fault anyway in my opinion, rather it is a manufacture issue). Of these ten, four of them emitted a foul taste as has been reported with so many 510 users. I used straight PG and cut VG to rule out e-liquid and drip smoked to rule out melting polyester batting right out of the box. (I have not used cartridges of any kind and only drip smoke for over a year now anyway).

Using stock 510 batteries, these four atomizers gave off a nasty burnt taste. After disassembly of two of the atomizers, I can preliminarily conclude that the nickel mesh bridge wicking is inferior and is burning instead of just heating.

There are only three components in an atomizer that could be subject to burn: (1) the coil; (2) the fiberglass wick that the coil surrounds; and (3) the nickel mesh bridge.

Upon disassembly of two of the four atomizers, I found the coils to be in tack and the fiberglass wick to have no discoloration. I removed the mesh, as I have done on so many other atomizers to find that the nickel mesh had a tinged blue and grey color and a slight burnt smell that also crumpled in upon manipulation. The mesh in most atomizers has no smell or discoloration and does not fall apart or crumple like this mesh.

With another of the four atomizers, I removed the nickel mesh bridge and drip smoked the atomizer with the coil in tact only to still have this foul taste. The taste would not dissipate even with removal of the visible wicking bridge. I can conclude that this removal of the bridge did not work simply because the metal wicking also goes under and around the visible part of the coil and can only be removed when the entire atomizer is disassembled.

I then disassembled one of the atomizers that did not emit any foul taste of the ten that I purchased only to find that there was no discoloration, smell, or crumpling of the nickel metal wicking material.


Bottom line---- four of the ten 510 atomizers that I purchased, employ an inferior mesh wicking bridge that burns and emits a foul taste, and that no cleaning of any kind can be done to abrogate the problem. This issue has absolutely nothing to do with user error as this metal wicking bridge is not suppose to burn or emit such a taste and needs to be rectified at the manufactures level.

As a Consumer, I can not say how wide spread the issue is, but I can say that I get reports of it every day.
 
Sun

Phee, thanks but this technique will not work when it's the nichrome that's defective. This thread is about defective nichrome in attys not wicking problems. Here's a report by Sun that explains the problems earlier this year. I don't know if the same issues are resurfacing or if it's a different problem however it seems to be the same.
 

BadThad

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get rid of your wick, be warned you'll have to switch to dripping, carts dont work very well after this:

(shameless plug)

Phee! You rock man! I'm a vaping noob and just discovered these fibers. I bought some 510LR attys and the first one I tried had a horrible, burnt taste. I was told it was due to the "primer", i.e. oil used to protect the atty during storage/shipment. While that may be true to some extent, it should have quickly burned-off after a few hits on my Phidias dripper. Nope, it just kept coming and coming so I figured the atomizer was bad.

So, I did a forum search and found this thread. After seeing your video I took a closer look at the new atty in question....VIOLA!....yes, I had burning threads! I pulled them out for closer inspection....no wonder why it wasn't vaping correctly with my dripper:

YUCK!

I have NO USE for these threads with my juice box! I'm definately going to immediately remove them on all my attys. THANKS for the video!
 

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Kate51

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If those are anything like the 801 scorch, those threads have been improperly covered under the wire mesh during manufacture. They tend to 'float' into the bottom of the atomizers' cup in the bottom, and they are burned, not just coated with juice. A burned fiber cannot be cleaned.

The fibers do however serve a purpose, they actually wick liquid from the atomizer's mesh into the coil, which is wrapped around those threads; if you just pull them all out your atty will not perform, and the coil will prematurely break apart from contraction/expansion during heating. Some of them may have burned off right where the coil starts or ends. I understand Phee's theory, if you pull out the fibers then yes, you do have to drip, because your juice will no longer flow into the coil as it was designed to do. The threads he was pulling out looked nice and white, as they should be. I would be more suspicious of not keeping my atty wet enough, rather than just taking out perfectly good threads. (they're not nylon, they are more like the threads on a wood furnace door insulation. It's a heat resistant type fiber, the best being made out of Silica.

Just pull out any that seem loose, or clip them short if you can, if you feel resistance leave them alone. Soaking your atomizer in high% grain alcohol (EverClear or Vodka) overnight, a good rinse the next day, and left to dry for a time should revive them and remove major scorched taste. Be sure to re-prime the dry atty with more juice before you use it.

 
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wijames

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Oct 1, 2010
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I hear ya please get back to me. I dont even know what burnt plastic taste like but thats how i compare it and ive been around crack smokers and the smell is the same wtf? I got sick for two days after using this it was harsh so i sucked the smoke up my nose. Two days later couldnt smell anything my body hurt etc.



I was just about to post on my own but I saw this first. I've had nothing but problems with the last batch of 510 atomizers I ordered. I ordered a 5 pack from TW and every single one of them turned into this horrid taste within 24 hours. This is not the same taste of a dry atty. It is much much worse, to me it tastes like burnt plastic. One of them made me down right nauseous. I've tried just about everything, nothing seems to work. The thing that's worrying me is what have I been smoking that tastes sooooo bad, almost chemical like? The thing that really sucks is I just spent $50 on an unwarrantied 5 pack.
Anyway, I've actually been hearing this scenario quite a bit the last couple days.
 

BababooeyHTJ

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Those aren't burnt threads they're just dark from your eLiquid. A good cleaning would have solved that problem.

Yep, that wick looks fine to me. I screwed up an atty by pulling the wick when I first started vaping. It just made have to drip more often and it leaked more. A rinse and dry burn would have made that atty good as new.
 
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P4C0

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Could someone explain exactly how the 510 atty works? There's a coil and the threads are inside that coil and extends to the upper part of the bridge? or how does it works?

I have read that the bridge let the liquid into the coil, but it seems that the bridge just go from side to side of the atty, is the liquid supposed to go through the bridge and into the threads? that will make sense because if it follows the bridge path it will go to the sides.

The reason I'm asking is because when my atty starts to get the terrible burnt taste and little to no vapor the sides of my cart gets extremely wet, not just some drops like condensation but really wet. (Are you experiencing the same?) Still the atty gets super hot, so what I believe is that for some reason the liquid goes everywhere but the atty, maybe because the bridge loses its ability to transfer the liquid to the threads, or the threads loses their ability to transfer the liquid to the coil, direct dripping doesn't help much since we drip on top of the bridge...

Am I correct?
 

phee

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Phee! You rock man! I'm a vaping noob and just discovered these fibers. I bought some 510LR attys and the first one I tried had a horrible, burnt taste. I was told it was due to the "primer", i.e. oil used to protect the atty during storage/shipment. While that may be true to some extent, it should have quickly burned-off after a few hits on my Phidias dripper. Nope, it just kept coming and coming so I figured the atomizer was bad.

So, I did a forum search and found this thread. After seeing your video I took a closer look at the new atty in question....VIOLA!....yes, I had burning threads! I pulled them out for closer inspection....no wonder why it wasn't vaping correctly with my dripper:

YUCK!

I have NO USE for these threads with my juice box! I'm definately going to immediately remove them on all my attys. THANKS for the video!

wow those threads are hella messed up lol - i found that 80% of the time those threads cauze the burnt taste, glad you could get use out of the info!
 

pupmastermp3

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Try this and tell me how it works for you.

If your cart is mostly filled, then leave it as is, put 2 drops on the bridge and take a good pull, now place the 501 vertically tip side up so the warm liquid wicks down onto the bridge for a couple minutes, then take another pull and repeat his process. I try not to leave my 510 lay flat if I don't have to.

Now if your atty gets flooded, instead of tip side up try tip side down. Then you can find your happy place and alternate as necessary (tip up or tip down).

A happy atty is a well behaved atty.

This solved my whole problem too. I was hitting it like I did with cartomizers. Can't do it the same. Noobie learning curve. LOL:laugh:
 

Papa Lazarou

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WHAT? Look at the ends of the threads....THEY ARE BURNT AND MELTED! Believe me, I inspected them with 10x magnification....they are definately BURNT.

If you still have them, try burning them directly with a blowtorch or gas stove etc. If they are of the same material as fibres that I have taken out of some atomizers, they will NOT burn or char and will actually go clean and perfectly white following burning. The colouring is juice that has burnt onto the fibre.

This picture of one which was taken from a DSE901 and has been held in a blue flame for over a minute to the point of the fibre glowing red hot (note it started off looking dark brown immediately after removal).

DSE901Wick.jpg

EDIT just realised this was an old thread, but it still stands, the wicks themselves should not burn
 
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Kelemvor

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still this thread leads lots of people into believing the wicks burn easily. they do not. if forced yes, but not under normal circumstances in using an atomizer.
i dry-burn every old clogged atomizer i own back to very clear taste or until it pops.
this would never work if the fibres just burns, but i have atomizers older than 12 months.

in germany we did some tests on these including close up fotos from before- after a dryburn. the wick gets cleaned. period.
i bet some similar photos would be found right here on ECF too.
 
I'm having the weird chemical taste also with the atomizers I got in a 510 kit. Tried cleaning with alcohol, blah blah blah, dripping into the atty, removing the wicking material and dripping. Nothing works. What the hell is burning in there??? I think it screwed up my sense of smell for the past 2 days. It doesn't smell like a safe material. IF ANY VENDORS READ THIS THREAD PLEASE CONTACT YOUR SUPPLIERS/MANUFACTURER'S AND DEMAND THEIR QUALITY ASSURANCE INFORMATION. If there's a problem with their product they probably know about it and document it, but don't fix it because it would cost money. Please put pressure on the industry to enforce better quality control.
 

Stonemull

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depends what juice you are using .. evaporate that juice and see what gets left behind. Then take that residue (probably black) and blob it onto a piece of hot wire and see what it smells like.

I generally stick to dekang liquids for this very reason. They evaporate quite cleanly.

Get a brand new atty .. stick it on a battery and cook it, there will be some smoke with the primng liquid, then .. nothing, its all metal and silica in there. I have a suspicion that the priming liquid in the joye products is PEG, sure tastes like it .. very neutral compared to the sweetness of PG.
 
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