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Yiorgo

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Awesome! I remember you saying something about the connector quality in the past, but that shouldn't be an issue with these.

I know tons of folks (myself included) use 22mm atomizers converted to bottom feed nowadays. 22mm dna 40 cutlass would be sell my car worthy :D
I hear ya..... Here are (2) b/f-ers I just got in the mail today both are *22mm
Magma
Veritas
2c452c6e9f5621b23022358ef3caee17.jpg
98ee35722b25a89534ad3f68faba1c2a.jpg
 

Yiorgo

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How is the Veritas? I seen catfish had them and it looks intriguing.

Pretty happy with the Odin on my beater Reo for work. Except it has a tendency to fall sideways and leak in my lunchbox :(
Haven't even used it yet gotta get my vv grand in for a haircut /flat-top Lp...... i'll let you know as soon as I get it back...everyone is raving about them accept if you're not that proficient at wrapping and setting up coils.. might be a pain. But leakless as far as I've heard!
 

Waho

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How's Odin's vapor production Waho compared to say.. like RM2?
I've seen on youtube someone with Odin with some crazy cloud. I'm not a cloud chaser but I'd love to shorten my drag time if I coud.

I've never used an RM2, but it's probably similar to like a Cyclone/ERA right?

I'm running twisted 28ga duals for 0.4 ohm and airflow wide open, and the vapor production is more than adequate to put it lightly. I only take 2-3 second drags to get a lung full.

I had some 0.5 ohm 26ga duals in an ERA with 2.4mm air hole, and the Odin has it beat by a mile vapor wise. The flavor goes to the ERA but the Odin is right behind it.
 

Capt' Brian

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Ahoy all!

I almost have the first handful of Cruisers done and ready for the website, pics probably late tomorrow? As soon as the rest of the parts I ordered arrive I will finish the rest of the Cruisers and then get started on the regulated mods. I forgot to order more 510 connectors and only had enough for half the 3.7v batch.

The regulated mods have only had the wood blocks cut to size so far so I have a good month or two before they will be ready to go.


I got the fatdaddy 510 connectors in that I ordered. I looked at them very carefully and have decided that I will not be using any of this stuff for my own mods. They are not up to my standards. I will find some other way of offering the ability to use larger diameter atties on the mods.

Arrrr
 

caveat

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How's Odin's vapor production Waho compared to say.. like RM2?
I've seen on youtube someone with Odin with some crazy cloud. I'm not a cloud chaser but I'd love to shorten my drag time if I coud.
I have yet to find an easy bottom fed atty I like more than the Odin. I keep trying.
 

fright88

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Ahoy all!

I almost have the first handful of Cruisers done and ready for the website, pics probably late tomorrow? As soon as the rest of the parts I ordered arrive I will finish the rest of the Cruisers and then get started on the regulated mods. I forgot to order more 510 connectors and only had enough for half the 3.7v batch.

The regulated mods have only had the wood blocks cut to size so far so I have a good month or two before they will be ready to go.


I got the fatdaddy 510 connectors in that I ordered. I looked at them very carefully and have decided that I will not be using any of this stuff for my own mods. They are not up to my standards. I will find some other way of offering the ability to use larger diameter atties on the mods.

Arrrr

Wow that is a suprise on the connectors. One thing to take into consideration on them is the adjustable post. Not as big of an issue when you have a deep catch cup or inset mod. However if you have a flat connector the ability to flush your atties is much more important to prevent leaking and just plain looking better.

Not that I want to change your mind I haven't seen the connectors myself I just thought I would throw that out there.

One question how feasible would it be for people to send in their mods (or have modified when they buy but before you ship) to have the catch cup grinded down flush? Would the heat from grinding hurt the wood or any glue used to secure it? If not maybe just keeping things as they are but offering a grind down service.

BTW thanks for the update and keep up the hard work. Can't wait to see the batch and even more can't wait for the regulated batch!!
 

Capt' Brian

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Ahoy, happy Thursday me 'earties...



Wow that is a suprise on the connectors. One thing to take into consideration on them is the adjustable post. Not as big of an issue when you have a deep catch cup or inset mod. However if you have a flat connector the ability to flush your atties is much more important to prevent leaking and just plain looking better.

Not that I want to change your mind I haven't seen the connectors myself I just thought I would throw that out there.

One question how feasible would it be for people to send in their mods (or have modified when they buy but before you ship) to have the catch cup grinded down flush? Would the heat from grinding hurt the wood or any glue used to secure it? If not maybe just keeping things as they are but offering a grind down service.

BTW thanks for the update and keep up the hard work. Can't wait to see the batch and even more can't wait for the regulated batch!!

I purchased the bottom feeder V3 for wood along with optional washers/catch cups and the way it is designed won't work for me.

The V4 has a much better designed top washer/catch cup that would actually hold liquid that dripped onto it. The V3 washer just has channels that would allow the juice to simply run onto the top of the mod making it a waste of time installing it. The V4 is currently not for bottom feeders and the mounting post is too short.

The optional V3 washers just press fit into the 510 connector flange from the bottom and are not changeable once installed while the V4 looks like they screw in from the top and might be water-tight which the V3 isn't in my opinion.

From looking at this hardware, I wouldn't say they are better yet, just different, and in some ways inferior to what I have been using.



As for grinding down CC's, the catch cups I install are inset into the top of the mod so to grind them flush I would be removing wood along with metal. I would also have to stop grinding before I damaged the 510 connector top so I would not be able to grind them completely flush anyway.

How high can the CC perimeter walls be before they prevent the rba's from seating firmly? I would assume just slightly higher than the height of the 510 atty connector top itself.

I would much rather do a modification to the current designs if there is a need and from what you all are telling me the larger diameter RBA's are becoming more and more popular and I need to look into adapting the mods to accommodate them. I will make it a top priority and try to do that before I start making the regulated mods.

If I cannot find something already on the market that I can adapt for use I may have to make it myself. Working with metal is a bugger when all you own is wood working machinery so I may have to look into a plastic type material.


hmmmm...........need more coffee.... arr
 

Capt' Brian

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Batch Update **


Apparently the 510 connectors are out for delivery. Rather than split the sale of the 3.7v mods in two, I am just going to grab the last 5 mods that are waiting to be finished and get them done, then put them all up for sale at one time. It would be a lot easier for me to do it that way.

So, pics will be delayed until these last 5 are completed.

Yo ho!
 

Waho

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Ahoy, happy Thursday me 'earties...





I purchased the bottom feeder V3 for wood along with optional washers/catch cups and the way it is designed won't work for me.

The V4 has a much better designed top washer/catch cup that would actually hold liquid that dripped onto it. The V3 washer just has channels that would allow the juice to simply run onto the top of the mod making it a waste of time installing it. The V4 is currently not for bottom feeders and the mounting post is too short.

The optional V3 washers just press fit into the 510 connector flange from the bottom and are not changeable once installed while the V4 looks like they screw in from the top and might be water-tight which the V3 isn't in my opinion.

From looking at this hardware, I wouldn't say they are better yet, just different, and in some ways inferior to what I have been using.



As for grinding down CC's, the catch cups I install are inset into the top of the mod so to grind them flush I would be removing wood along with metal. I would also have to stop grinding before I damaged the 510 connector top so I would not be able to grind them completely flush anyway.

How high can the CC perimeter walls be before they prevent the rba's from seating firmly? I would assume just slightly higher than the height of the 510 atty connector top itself.

I would much rather do a modification to the current designs if there is a need and from what you all are telling me the larger diameter RBA's are becoming more and more popular and I need to look into adapting the mods to accommodate them. I will make it a top priority and try to do that before I start making the regulated mods.

If I cannot find something already on the market that I can adapt for use I may have to make it myself. Working with metal is a bugger when all you own is wood working machinery so I may have to look into a plastic type material.


hmmmm...........need more coffee.... arr






Couple photos of my beater Reo for catch cup comparison. The oring seals and aligns the air flow direction where I want it.
 

Capt' Brian

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Couple photos of my beater Reo for catch cup comparison. The oring seals and aligns the air flow direction where I want it.

Thanks fer the pics, but that brings up another question. Are most of the newer rba's for bottom feeders side air flow?

If I didn't have to worry about providing air flow at the bottom of the atty, then I could simply do what you have done and make a small water proof ledge and seal it up with a o-ring.

What my concern is, is that leaked juice has to be contained inside the catch cup (so it needs high walls) and it also must be able to flow back into the catch cup to be picked up the next time it is squonked.

Also there is the act of squonking itself. When I do it I draw slightly on the tip to suck it up inside the atty. I believe many people just squeeze the bottle and flow the juice upwards for a few seconds. If they didn't have a CC with walls then the excess juice would simply run down the side of the mod?

When I think about changing the CC system all these factors and more come to mind and need to be addressed.... arrrggg
 

Waho

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Thanks fer the pics, but that brings up another question. Are most of the newer rba's for bottom feeders side air flow?

If I didn't have to worry about providing air flow at the bottom of the atty, then I could simply do what you have done and make a small water proof ledge and seal it up with a o-ring.

What my concern is, is that leaked juice has to be contained inside the catch cup (so it needs high walls) and it also must be able to flow back into the catch cup to be picked up the next time it is squonked.

Also there is the act of squonking itself. When I do it I draw slightly on the tip to suck it up inside the atty. I believe many people just squeeze the bottle and flow the juice upwards for a few seconds. If they didn't have a CC with walls then the excess juice would simply run down the side of the mod?

When I think about changing the CC system all these factors and more come to mind and need to be addressed.... arrrggg

Almost all I have seen are side air flow now.

The oring does a pretty good job of getting the juice up to the atty and keeping juice from spilling out. I've only had it happen once myself (oring scooted when attaching atty) but for the most part the amount in my photos is what I have there after a few days (between rewicking).

When I squonk I hit the bottle until I see juice glistening in the air holes and then release. The back pressure from the bottle sucks the excess out of the atty and back into the bottle. Aside from the oring misalignment once, I've never had trouble with juice coming out from the connector. My leaks come from laying the thing sideways in my lunchbox. :p
 

MamaTried

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I think the only bottom feed rba I've seen without a side air hole was A7

That's the only one I could think of also, it was easy to drill the cap & add the side hole. A vice or vice-grips are highly advised.

the Vision Eternity was touted as a bottom-feeder, tho, in my mind that was a stretch. worst atty ever...
 
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