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Better still - stretch an o-ring over the threads that the topcap screws onto.
That ought to give you a bit of wriggle room and the o-ring that the RM2 comes with can be used for this.
T
That ought to give you a bit of wriggle room and the o-ring that the RM2 comes with can be used for this.
T
woohoo!!! I'm so happy...and proud of myself. 
I finally got this drip cup sanded down so I could use my Reactor.....I'm proud of myself for taking the time to do something right for a change instead of getting frustrated and screwing it up. I wrapped the mod first since dremels have a tendency to jump and I did it a tiny bit at a time. Oh..and yes..I wore safety glassed. If you have ever had the joy of metal flakes in your eye you would too...lol.
Now I think I'll send in one of my Divos and have it drilled to be a BF..I keep seeing everyone say how much they love theirs. It sure would have been nice if the Divo cap fit the Cyclone deck.
I finally got this drip cup sanded down so I could use my Reactor.....I'm proud of myself for taking the time to do something right for a change instead of getting frustrated and screwing it up. I wrapped the mod first since dremels have a tendency to jump and I did it a tiny bit at a time. Oh..and yes..I wore safety glassed. If you have ever had the joy of metal flakes in your eye you would too...lol. Now I think I'll send in one of my Divos and have it drilled to be a BF..I keep seeing everyone say how much they love theirs. It sure would have been nice if the Divo cap fit the Cyclone deck.
The o-ring that came with the RM2 doesn't work too well. I put one on that I had thats a little thicker and I'm able to line up the air hole.
Thanks T
This has probably been addressed but why can't the catch cup be milled down flush to the inner 510 connection for wider atties? Has this been done and to what success?
I haven't seen anyone do this yet. You'd be grinding off quite a bit hoping it didn't get hot and effect the glue
Ahoy me 'earties, guess I better check in before you all think I set sail for me final voyage or something.
I put the first coat of finish on the Cruisers from the batch and I'm afraid they have been sitting like that for almost a week as I managed to mess up my back again.
If rest + ice + heat doesn't fix it up in a couple more days I'm going to head to the hospital and see what's wrong this time. Really crappy timing too as I just need to add a couple more coats of finish and they could be assembled and sold.. ah well.... as my generation used to say, .... happens.... arrr
As for the catch cups, I don't see why it couldn't be sanded down. I could bring it over to the belt sander and grind it flush or leave a small lip exposed to catch the occasional drip or two. Nobody has ever asked about it before. These are the same catch cups I've been using for the last 3 years. I've looked occasionally for other things that I could adapt to be used as catch cups but never found anything useful to me.
Do you all think that I should be shortening the height of the catch cup walls? I would rather not make them flush as a lip would keep juice from getting into the wood if something leaked. If I was to make it flush I might as well just use a steel washer instead grinding down a five dollar catch cup.
Hope this all makes sense, been popping tramadolsssss...tramidol... tramadals??.... arrgg, night night time again....
I put the first coat of finish on the Cruisers from the batch and I'm afraid they have been sitting like that for almost a week as I managed to mess up my back again.
If rest + ice + heat doesn't fix it up in a couple more days I'm going to head to the hospital and see what's wrong this time. Really crappy timing too as I just need to add a couple more coats of finish and they could be assembled and sold.. ah well.... as my generation used to say, .... happens.... arrr
As for the catch cups, I don't see why it couldn't be sanded down. I could bring it over to the belt sander and grind it flush or leave a small lip exposed to catch the occasional drip or two. Nobody has ever asked about it before. These are the same catch cups I've been using for the last 3 years. I've looked occasionally for other things that I could adapt to be used as catch cups but never found anything useful to me.
Do you all think that I should be shortening the height of the catch cup walls? I would rather not make them flush as a lip would keep juice from getting into the wood if something leaked. If I was to make it flush I might as well just use a steel washer instead grinding down a five dollar catch cup.
Hope this all makes sense, been popping tramadolsssss...tramidol... tramadals??.... arrgg, night night time again....
Hi sorry if I'm out of line because I have yet to get my hands on one but I was thinking something like this
https://m.facebook.com/fatdaddyvapes/posts/573586739426050
Wouldn't this work? It's spring loaded..... There has to be something that I'm missing here.... Because I've seen members that have your mods and have designed others with the fat daddy's spring loaded 510 connection? What am I not seeing...... What's the diameter of the cup? I didn't think you could fit a 22-23ml b/f rda on the cutlass for example.
Again sorry I was thinking your catch cup (cutlass- bottom feeder) is the same as the woody..... if I'm wrong I appolize!
Or like this... It looks like a recessed cup?
https://m.facebook.com/fatdaddyvapes/posts/573586739426050
Wouldn't this work? It's spring loaded..... There has to be something that I'm missing here.... Because I've seen members that have your mods and have designed others with the fat daddy's spring loaded 510 connection? What am I not seeing...... What's the diameter of the cup? I didn't think you could fit a 22-23ml b/f rda on the cutlass for example.
Again sorry I was thinking your catch cup (cutlass- bottom feeder) is the same as the woody..... if I'm wrong I appolize!
Or like this... It looks like a recessed cup?
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I have seen a few mod makers making wooden mods with flat connectors. I am thinking the theory is you shouldn't have much if any leaking because the excess juice should be sucked back up by the bottle. As to if they would be popular I think so. Reo also has a grind down service where they will grind down the catch cup on older reos if you send it in. You could try something like that as well.
As for the fat daddy vapes connector I don't think I have seen one on a squonker yet. Although if it could be made to work with a Cutlass I think that would be kinda cool.
Hi Cappy. I was wondering of your where abouts! Was hoping it was a vacation. Or thought maybe you were involved in some far away ocean high-jinx. I let my imagination run wild I guess....old age is a bit mundane, huh? Hope you feel better soon.
Personally, I feel more secure having even a little catchcup on my wood bottom feeders. I'm no expert, to be sure. But my wood is very precious to me and would not want any juice ruining it.
Personally, I feel more secure having even a little catchcup on my wood bottom feeders. I'm no expert, to be sure. But my wood is very precious to me and would not want any juice ruining it.
Hi sorry if I'm out of line because I have yet to get my hands on one but I was thinking something like this
https://m.facebook.com/fatdaddyvapes/posts/573586739426050
Wouldn't this work? It's spring loaded..... There has to be something that I'm missing here.... Because I've seen members that have your mods and have designed others with the fat daddy's spring loaded 510 connection? What am I not seeing...... What's the diameter of the cup? I didn't think you could fit a 22-23ml b/f rda on the cutlass for example.
Again sorry I was thinking your catch cup (cutlass- bottom feeder) is the same as the woody..... if I'm wrong I appolize!
Or like this... It looks like a recessed cup?
Ahoy all,
The catch cups I use are 15.5 mm inner diameter which are the biggest I can get from Digikey. I don't know where Reo gets their catch cups, maybe they make their own?
As for the spring loaded connectors, they don't have a center hole in them so I can't use them for feeders. The center conductor is too small to drill out for tubes to be soldered into.
I was under the impression that 15.5 mm was adequate for most bottom feed rda's, is this no longer true?
Happy hump day all, arrrr
For stock bottom feeders, I think 16ish is likely as big as they go.
Some of the newer 22mm atties have a bottom feed option available or people are now modifying them to be bottom fed.
The Odin would be a very popular example of a stock 22mm available in bottom feed.
The catch cup on a Reo is milled so Rob can make it any size he wants. The Low Profile version can fit any sized atty.
The recessed cup looks pretty cool Yiorgo, but seems the same set of difficulties as a raised catch cap. You'd have to have the right diameter atty....no?
Cap'n..... I know there's a guy on Ecf Chowderhead1972.... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=581604
Catfish atty mods.
who is drilling regular rda's for b/f I just ordered a magma and a Veritas both are 22mm will work on the milled down reo grand..... As for the fatdaddy 510 connection I'm sure he can drill them out for you... unk cost? ..... Will the diameter of that fatdads 510 spring loaded fit the top surface of the cutlass comfortably ?
There's also the "nuppin atty" made for b/f mods!
The "Nuppin" atty is;
Outside dimensions are 18mm diameter and 20mm body height (i.e. 24.35mm including the 510). The deck is about 14mm across, and the chamber height is about 8 or 8.5mm from deck to ceiling. AFC airholes can be operated as single or dual.
Catfish atty mods.
who is drilling regular rda's for b/f I just ordered a magma and a Veritas both are 22mm will work on the milled down reo grand..... As for the fatdaddy 510 connection I'm sure he can drill them out for you... unk cost? ..... Will the diameter of that fatdads 510 spring loaded fit the top surface of the cutlass comfortably ?
There's also the "nuppin atty" made for b/f mods!
The "Nuppin" atty is;
Outside dimensions are 18mm diameter and 20mm body height (i.e. 24.35mm including the 510). The deck is about 14mm across, and the chamber height is about 8 or 8.5mm from deck to ceiling. AFC airholes can be operated as single or dual.
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Yeah if you're talking about the last black polished mod it's just something I found on reddit and thought it looked unique its flush mounted and recessed..... right? I did msg him hopefully he'll get back to me. But as far as diameter it looks like a 22in atty on that, which is big enough for most rda's?? I'm sure if the good Cap'n incorporated a 22 inch 510 connection/ flush catch cup ? It would be perfect. Having someone drill your 510's instead of milling down a $5 catch cup sounds easier to me ?? I wouldn't mind absorbing that cost!
Then there are new bottom feeders that just use the actual 510 with no drip tray and make it flush and level to the top of the mod. The first mod(s) has a richlite top which is impervious to liquid.
Just an FYI..... I love the form factor of your mods..*I hope you or your fans don't think it disrespectful to post another's mod on your thread. Because I'm a huge fan!
This one is 3d printed..... plastic.
Just an FYI..... I love the form factor of your mods..*I hope you or your fans don't think it disrespectful to post another's mod on your thread. Because I'm a huge fan!
This one is 3d printed..... plastic.
They also run an o-ring between the atty and the top of the mod to prevent seepage.
Looking at the fat daddy website, it looks like there is bottom feed pins for his v3 and v4 510 connectors. The v4 even has available 22mm catch cups.
Whenever the v4 is released anyway
Now that is something I would love.
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