Cthulhu RTA V2 (similar posts to the velocity rda)

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HolmanGT

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You need to adjust your wicking technique then. I've ran this tank up to 70w with 80% vg, chain vaping, no dry hits, no leaking.

RAWRferal,

I glad it works well for you. I have also heard the same comment from others. That out of the way do you see bubbles coming up from the juice ports at a regular interval? Mine don't bubble like they should so the vacuum in the upper portion of the tank is never relieved therefor the juice can not flow as it should.

Watch a couple of videos on "Sub-Ohm" tanks. Those puppies have giant holes in the lower channels and giant holes in the mid section of the chimney. Every video I have watched will claim they are juice guzzlers. That is what I am after. My claim is the more juice your Atty uses at a given wattage is and excellent indicator of juice flow and wick/coil efficiency which by the way will keep your coil cooler and the chances of hitting a TP of 450 degrees is slim to none.

If it is done right you can get a tank/coil/wick assembly to idle at approx 400(+-) degrees F without any air flow. When an Atty will do that I consider the Atty juice flow and wick/coil assembly to be running at optimum conditions.

I manage to achieve the above on a some what regular bases but all to often the juice flow cramps my style. I believe I have the wick/Coil assembly down to a science but juice flow is hit and miss. Higher VG just compounds the problem for me. (Also some vendors sell Max VG but it has water added which makes it flow better but i don't like the taste).

PS I am not Trolling for an argument or a debate on this subject just expressing my personal experience. Had Cthulhu milled the juice channel just an eight of an inch deeper they would have nailed it. Tomorrow I am going to pick up a Sub-Ohm with all the extra juice ports (Smok TFV4). It is a way too big a tank for me but until I personally try one it is only my opinion that more juice flow makes a very big difference.
 

RAWRferal

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RAWRferal,

I glad it works well for you. I have also heard the same comment from others. That out of the way do you see bubbles coming up from the juice ports at a regular interval? Mine don't bubble like they should so the vacuum in the upper portion of the tank is never relieved therefor the juice can not flow as it should.

Watch a couple of videos on "Sub-Ohm" tanks. Those puppies have giant holes in the lower channels and giant holes in the mid section of the chimney. Every video I have watched will claim they are juice guzzlers. That is what I am after. My claim is the more juice your Atty uses at a given wattage is and excellent indicator of juice flow and wick/coil efficiency which by the way will keep your coil cooler and the chances of hitting a TP of 450 degrees is slim to none.

If it is done right you can get a tank/coil/wick assembly to idle at approx 400(+-) degrees F without any air flow. When an Atty will do that I consider the Atty juice flow and wick/coil assembly to be running at optimum conditions.

I manage to achieve the above on a some what regular bases but all to often the juice flow cramps my style. I believe I have the wick/Coil assembly down to a science but juice flow is hit and miss. Higher VG just compounds the problem for me. (Also some vendors sell Max VG but it has water added which makes it flow better but i don't like the taste).

PS I am not Trolling for an argument or a debate on this subject just expressing my personal experience. Had Cthulhu milled the juice channel just an eight of an inch deeper they would have nailed it. Tomorrow I am going to pick up a Sub-Ohm with all the extra juice ports (Smok TFV4). It is a way too big a tank for me but until I personally try one it is only my opinion that more juice flow makes a very big difference.
Yeah i get bubbles pretty much immediately after taking a nice big hit. Do you close off the juice control before a top fill? If not this could be causing a vacuum issue.

I believe you when you say you're having a few issues and i hope you don't think i was attacking you! I've been through my fair share of RTAs and i can honestly say that this is the first one where I've had zero wicking issues from the start, so i just found it strange is all.

Perhaps those of us who are having success with this tank could share tips on what works for us with people like yourself, because when this tank is set up nicely, it's a killer vape. Plus, after all, isn't that what ECF is all about? [emoji1]
 

HolmanGT

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Yeah i get bubbles pretty much immediately after taking a nice big hit. Do you close off the juice control before a top fill? If not this could be causing a vacuum issue.

I believe you when you say you're having a few issues and i hope you don't think i was attacking you! I've been through my fair share of RTAs and i can honestly say that this is the first one where I've had zero wicking issues from the start, so i just found it strange is all.

Perhaps those of us who are having success with this tank could share tips on what works for us with people like yourself, because when this tank is set up nicely, it's a killer vape. Plus, after all, isn't that what ECF is all about? [emoji1]

RAWRferal,

No problems here I just threw the Troll NOT item in there to take the edge off of my comments about the juice flow in the "Cth" (God I hate that name).

What is your wicking secret that allows you to get good flow and corresponding bubbles?
 

Vapin Dave

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RAWRferal,

No problems here I just threw the Troll NOT item in there to take the edge off of my comments about the juice flow in the "Cth" (God I hate that name).

What is your wicking secret that allows you to get good flow and corresponding bubbles?
I posted my wicking secrets already, and mine works great.
 

RAWRferal

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RAWRferal,

No problems here I just threw the Troll NOT item in there to take the edge off of my comments about the juice flow in the "Cth" (God I hate that name).

What is your wicking secret that allows you to get good flow and corresponding bubbles?
Hehe, what's wrong with Cthulhu?? [emoji12]

What i tend to do is trim the wick tails fairly flush with the deck/wick ring, like a loose bowl haircut, blow on them and trim any loose bits that protrude at the top (above the posts). Then, whilst dry, use a piece of Kanthal or a toothpick and gently push the bottom 1/3 or 1/2 of the wicks into the top of the channels, you shouldn't be able to see them come out of the bottom of the wicking ring though. Then juice em up and form the rest so it sits on the base.

To be honest it's what i do for most dual coil RTAs, but this just seems to be less fussy with it!
 

stormjib

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I've had good wicking results with both decks, and also a few learning experiences with both. A couple of times when I went to topfill, juice literally just poured out of airholes, oops...remedy, turn upside down, curse, rewick.. on single coil deck i don't use the wicking ring, i wick it like a subtank rba, with the cotton just long enough to go maybe a third of the way down the juice channels, and not compressed. With the dual deck I do use the wicking ring, and I gently stuff all the cotton behind it. I don't let any be below the ring. I vape mostly 30/70 pg/vg, i did notice that 85% vg in the single coil didn't really wick enough unless I primer puffed for the little bubbles. On the dual deck, right now I have twin claptons, at .24 ohms and from 50-60 watts it's performing perfectly. tiny little bubbles but no need for priming. I think maybe the dual deck wicks better for me because the wick enters the channels more directly, because the coils are bigger. hmm.
 

HolmanGT

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Hehe, what's wrong with Cthulhu?? [emoji12]

What i tend to do is trim the wick tails fairly flush with the deck/wick ring, like a loose bowl haircut, blow on them and trim any loose bits that protrude at the top (above the posts). Then, whilst dry, use a piece of Kanthal or a toothpick and gently push the bottom 1/3 or 1/2 of the wicks into the top of the channels, you shouldn't be able to see them come out of the bottom of the wicking ring though. Then juice em up and form the rest so it sits on the base.

To be honest it's what i do for most dual coil RTAs, but this just seems to be less fussy with it!

Thanks, I'll give that a try but honestly the only thing you do that I don't is put wick into the channel. But who knows maybe that is the secret.
 

RAWRferal

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Thanks I need all the luck I can get. I use 26 Ga Ni about 8 wraps and an ID of 4 mm.
Holy crap 4mm! Well you might not have luck with the wicking, but you are clearly a wizard when it comes to installing coils [emoji13]

Once again, keep at it my friend. The vape off this thing is superb if you nail it, i hope you achieve it!
 
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52anddone

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I don't know if I can add much of anything to this conversation, but, I have been using the Single coil deck Exclusively and have been running with the same coil (double twisted 30g Kanthal A-1 on 3mm, 7 wraps for 1.4 Ohms, wicks are KGD cut to 2.5 times the coil ID in width, wattage set at 15, Air Flow Closed Off) and just adjust my wicking. I started out with my wicks fully into the wick channels ALL the way to the bottom as far as they would go and experienced slight Dry Hits after the 2nd hit (wick choking), Then cut wicks to just below the wicking ring (all else the same) and it was better with slight Dry Hitting after 4 or 5 hits (I'm thinking wicks Still choking), Then I cut my wicks to lay just on top of the deck (like I do for my Lemo's "with juice channels Clear") and so far all is good, little bubbles on every pull. I have run it this way up to 21 watts and chain vaped it 5 times in rapid succession and All is Still Good, but I experienced my Very First Flood on a Refill, so am Still Learning. When I say I "cut my wicks" I mean NEW wicking (I pull out the old wick and put in a New one). I know that I am a Lite Weight as far as my wattage goes but I'm more of a "Tootle Puffer"/"Mod Whomper", but I AM up to using the Stock Drip Tips now. Does That Count for anything ? ;) Vroom, Vroom, Speed Racer :thumb:
 
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Noserenity

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I am still enamored with this rta though I have a couple points. The top fill needs knurling. Mine is getting teeth marks, so perhaps I'll add my own here soon.

Secondly. I just switched out the clear glass for the frosted glass and red o-rings. One of the white o-rings that was on the clear glass was fused with the glass itself. It was almost as if it was glued, and it is now ruined. Not only is it ruined, but the next time I need to use the clear glass again I will have to scour the inside of it to get the rubber debris that's still stuck on. I'm sure a little wd-40 and elbow grease should do the trick, but what is the deal with that?
 
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52anddone

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I am still enamored with this rta though I have a couple points. The top fill needs knurling. Mine is getting teeth marks, so perhaps I'll add my own here soon.

Secondly. I just switched out the clear glass for the frosted glass and red o-rings. One of the white o-rings that was on the clear glass was fused with the glass itself. It was almost as if it was glued, and it is now ruined. Not only is it ruined, but the next time I need to use the clear glass again I will have to scour the inside of it to get the rubber debris that's still stuck on. I'm sure a little wd-40 and elbow grease should do the trick, but what is the deal with that?

Hey, I hear ya on the o-rings, I do. Most of my tanks are like that, Kanger, Lemo, and this one. I think it has something to do with the Silicone and Glass together under pressure that does it. I don't know why these factories screw the tanks together so tight that sometimes I have to use a pair of padded pliers just to get the New tanks apart, then the Silicone o-rings are like Super Glued to the glass. Sometimes I come sooo close to tearing them up. I put the glass under Hot water for awhile and that seems to help just enough, but really, do they have to be putting the tanks together that damn tight in the factory ? Once I have the tank all apart the first time then I don't seem to have any problems after that. It's almost like they have been sitting in some Hot warehouse for 3 years before being shipped out to the customer and all the parts are fused together. I'm in the habit of taking brand new tanks apart and Ultra-Sound Washing them as soon as I get them for just that reason (and the machine oil that is), each and every piece. The round Black o-rings I have had No problems with, just those Silicone ones on the glass.
 

Fahrenheit

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Yes yes yes! Finally solved my wicking and flavor problem! It took 5 days to make it right..
8 wraps 26g 2.5mm dia, 0.4ohms and vaping 70vg with 50 watts. No problems.

Main problem was that there wasn't enough wicking materian in coil, which made it burn too hot. I used rayon style wick, FiberFreaks and it doesn't expand when wet.
 

HolmanGT

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Yes yes yes! Finally solved my wicking and flavor problem! It took 5 days to make it right..
8 wraps 26g 2.5mm dia, 0.4ohms and vaping 70vg with 50 watts. No problems.

Main problem was that there wasn't enough wicking materian in coil, which made it burn too hot. I used rayon style wick, FiberFreaks and it doesn't expand when wet.

That is a problem that I don't often hear mentioned. If you don't have a good tight fit between the coil and the wick you will hit some pretty high temperatures. The vapor temperature of the wick can't cool the coil unless it is making a good physical connection to the coil.:thumbs:
 

52anddone

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I keep a small dropper bottle of 50/50 VG/PG on the bench and lube all the parts during assembly. Seems to help to prevent stuff from getting stuck even if the next disassembly is long down the road.

Oh Yeah, I do that also, for a Looong time now. I still use my First Lemo V1 I bought back in Feb. this year, and have yet to have to replace ANY o-ring in that, or any tank I own. I learned that little trick from "The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics" thread started by "VaPreis", I read about 3/4 of the thread before the site went to the New software and screwed all the page counts up and made me have to hunt around and find where I had left off, but when I did pick it up again I quick got going and finished that thread, Every Page, I'm a slow reader so It takes me awhile to get accomplished, but I did, and that's just one of the little tips I remembered and have used to this day. There's a Whole Lot of Very Good Tips on this Forum and That's one of the most useful ones I think. It can't be said enough, in my opinion. Thanks Scientist.
 

Noserenity

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I keep a small dropper bottle of 50/50 VG/PG on the bench and lube all the parts during assembly. Seems to help to prevent stuff from getting stuck even if the next disassembly is long down the road.
Well it isn't dry threading. It's just too damn tight. Judging from their qc issues with legacy batches your juice fill is probably much looser than mine.
 
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