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Yeah, yeah...Camera's at home.
Waiting for the wife to take the pictures.
We know
Waiting for the wife to take the pictures.
We know
Yeah, yeah...Camera's at home.
Waiting for the wife to take the pictures.
We know
Nope. I am more than capable of taking my own pictures, and even editing them. The wife works for her friend who owns a tattoo shop, and she uses the camera to take pictures of the new ink work, since it's a pretty nice camera.
That being said.... behold the RedneckDarwin!
Whoa, someone has a sensitive spot .
That swivel for the carto looks solid.
and that is a very nice photo Angus.
.That swivel for the carto looks solid.
and that is a very nice photo Angus.
Whoa, someone has a sensitive spot
Nah, someone is just grumpy today... it's been the forum day from hell.
I like it...I really like how the tape lines look nice and parallel. A lot of time went into the rednecking of this device
I imagine you could even customize the thickness of the cushion grip for someone with big hands.
Good thang it's not that cammo tape, or you could lose that thing.
Just joking, don't want to trigger anyone's button
I know the tape is just to hide the logo so this is a "Blind Test".
DAMN! Thats amazing! I was thinking about making my own regulated mod but it would never have come out as pretty. Im an electrical engineer but suck at fabbing enclosures. That looks great and from a technical perspective its ....ing amazing. This is definately the future of vaping, hands down. Now if we can just make it smaller and invent a better battery that gives you as much power but in a cigarette dimension. Im actually going to do some experiments with using super capacitors (wiki that shizz). Ill post in a few weeks when I get a prototype
The wife put some art on it,
and them you could take another photo of it.
and did I tell you,
that's one nice photo you took.
on a serious note, you gonna compare performance (like charge life) to something sort of standard?
Sometimes these "lasts all day" reviews end up being uh, subjective.
and them you could take another photo of it.
and did I tell you,
that's one nice photo you took.
on a serious note, you gonna compare performance (like charge life) to something sort of standard?
Sometimes these "lasts all day" reviews end up being uh, subjective.
Or beings this is vaping and not a lunar rocket launch you could simply turn your adjustment to the desired vaping experience and get on with your day. Which I'm sure 99% of the VV users do.First off, really nice looking mod.
Second off, really nice looking mod.
I see that you are getting uh a little resistance to the adjustable power concept. I think a little more in depth explanation would help others understand the benefit of dialing in power instead of voltage or current. BTW, this is typically done when tuning up a radio transmitter, to lets say 500 watts.
If you can imagine a circuit (shunt resistance with a voltmeter across it) to measure series atty current, and another circuit to measure voltage applied to the atty, with two digital displays, you could manually calculate watts without actually knowing that you knew the atty resistance
The process is read volts, read current, multiply, adjust until the 3rd display (the calculator display) reads 10 watts. We can do that. Still with me?
Change to a different atty resistance, read volts, read current, multiply, adjust up or down until calculator display reads the 10 watts again. Don't go away just yet.
What if you had a microprocessor read the volts, read the amps, multiply them together, and display the result in watts? Now, I'm not calling anyone a dummy, but it would not take a lot of computing power to do what we could do with a couple of cheap meters and a calculator
Is this easier to interpret than adjusting a VV mod to a desired voltage? If you change attys a lot, yes. You might like 4.6 volts with a 2.3 ohm atty (9.2 watts), but if you put a 2.0 ohm atty what voltage would you adjust your VV mod to get the same watts? Go ahead, punch it out on the calculator
(rocket scientists can do it in their head
If you are a 10 watt vaper, set your mod for 10 watts. If you are a 5 volt vaper, set your mod to 5 volts. Which one is easier for you to figure out for different ohm attys? You do know the resistance of all your attys, right?
So, guessing, I would say there is a calibrated shunt, and three analog to digital inputs (read volts, read amps, read adjusting pot) on a PIC (or similar) processor that calculates, and displays the dialed in watts, and a D to A output to control the regulator, which I hope is not an old fashioned linear type. Based on thickness of the device 14mm diameter batteries would be a tight fit as the total (in metric decimal) thickness is 15.9mm. Do we have two 14670 cells in there? Or just a pair of 14500s?
Now, regulating both voltage and current interdependently not independently with a single regulating device to produce a single final result (watts) still complies with ohms law.
Rocket
I plan on writing a full, in-depth review sometime this weekend. I just wanted to get some more time to play with it a bit and see if I can find out what it's limits are. I also want to get one full day of ungodly heavy vaping in to see how long it lasts me on a full charge, as well.
I got some camo duct tape if you send me your address...wally world has it for like $4 a roll in the hunting section. Either way, its screaming for a custom camo job.
Sure thats kinda true, but wattage is the measurement we are all looking for. Wattage is the shear amount of energy being expended. In a variable voltage, you only change the voltage of the device using a voltage divider type circuit, like a volume knob on your stereo. Its true the current increases too, but with this device (at least how he originally explained it) senses the impedence of the load (resistance of the atomizer) then tunes the output voltage or current accordingly to give you your desired power output. It's a "smart" version of the voltage variable mod in that sense. As an atomizer heats up, the impedence changes, and as power is drained from the battery, the voltage changes. This should theoretically not make a difference with this mod because it uses (im just guessing here) a current/voltage supply stage with a feedback circuit to balance these changes in order to give you consistent power regardless of these variables. Thats what's smart about it. It would make it so you can have a adjustable "intensity" level versus just a vague voltage output adjustment
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Dude, im so stoked for this device. I want one!!! So bad!!!
I cant wait to do some experimenting with mods during my winter break. Gonna bust out ye olde box o parts and see if i can recreate something like that. I was hoping one would come along. Brilliant!
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I don't think (the modder would have to clarify this) the circuit measures the impedance of the atty. If you set a VV mod to 5 volts it will give 5 volts regardless of atty resistance. Without resetting a VV mod the wattage will be the result of the set voltage and the atty in charge (AIC) at the time. Won't be the same wattage for all attys.
With a VW mod you don't need to know the atty resistance. Operation can be one of two ways:
Method 1: Set a wattage and the volts times amps measurement self adjusts the mod to the set wattage. This would require a D to A output from the controller to vary the control input of the regulator. The manual pot sets a reference level and the controller matches that.
Method 2: Adjust the manual pot for the desired volts times amps calculated watts. Change to a different resistance atty and readjust to the same displayed watts. Same display, same watts, but not automatic.
Put a 3.2 ohm carto on it and adjust for 10 watts, then put a 2.5 ohm carto on it. If you have to readjust to get 10 watts, then it uses method 2. But, if it stays at 10 watts with both attys, with no further adjustment, it's method 1.
A user could determine this. With both voltage and current known, knowing resistance, or even calculating it, would be superfluous, and unnecessary.
With a VW mod you don't need to know the atty resistance. Operation can be one of two ways:
Method 1: Set a wattage and the volts times amps measurement self adjusts the mod to the set wattage. This would require a D to A output from the controller to vary the control input of the regulator. The manual pot sets a reference level and the controller matches that.
Method 2: Adjust the manual pot for the desired volts times amps calculated watts. Change to a different resistance atty and readjust to the same displayed watts. Same display, same watts, but not automatic.
Put a 3.2 ohm carto on it and adjust for 10 watts, then put a 2.5 ohm carto on it. If you have to readjust to get 10 watts, then it uses method 2. But, if it stays at 10 watts with both attys, with no further adjustment, it's method 1.
A user could determine this. With both voltage and current known, knowing resistance, or even calculating it, would be superfluous, and unnecessary.
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Its method 1 then (if I had to guess between the 2 you mentioned)...once you set the device say at 10 watts, the device vapes at 10 watts, regardless of which atty you put on it. The Darwin wont change the way any atty or carto vapes, meaning that if you get more vapor from an 801 vs an 808, that wont change. What does happen is if you put an 801 on the darwin and set it for 10 watts, if you change to an 808, the device will still continue to vape at 10 watts. The same holds true if you screw a 510 atty onto it or a 901 or whatever. It will continue to vape at 10 watts until the user changes the wattage setting.
The way I understand it, the device does read and make adjustments for the resistance of the atty/carto. So as you heat the atty and the resistance raises, the Darwin will take that into account and adjust volts/amps to keep the wattage at a consistent level. I believe I have that right. I only use the 808 cartos but Brandon did send me a 510 carto and i do have 1 regular 510 atty that i use to try new flavors. So the only changing i have been able to do is between those 3. I will say that no matter which of the 3 I put on, my vape has been consistent.
I am hoping Angus has more of a variety and will try different combos and post his results.
The way I understand it, the device does read and make adjustments for the resistance of the atty/carto. So as you heat the atty and the resistance raises, the Darwin will take that into account and adjust volts/amps to keep the wattage at a consistent level. I believe I have that right. I only use the 808 cartos but Brandon did send me a 510 carto and i do have 1 regular 510 atty that i use to try new flavors. So the only changing i have been able to do is between those 3. I will say that no matter which of the 3 I put on, my vape has been consistent.
I am hoping Angus has more of a variety and will try different combos and post his results.
Spoken like a true geek.
I'm proud of ya boy
I am hoping I have the information correct. I wish they would allow the manufacturer to come on the thread and explain it. I do know they are reading it, and I have been calling them and trying to get the most accurate answers I can. Now that Angus has a unit as well, maybe he can back up or argue with, some of the stuff I have posted.
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