Discussing the NicoStick

[a2dcovert]

You still don't get it. Where do you think the air is coming from that you are using to create the vapor flow? If the atomizer were sealed completely your e-cig couldn't function. The air is coming from holes in the atomizer. On the 510 atty the holes are located just above the threads on the bottom of the atty. All attys have to breath to function. If those atty holes are inside the box then there is a possiblility of leak.

Kevin

 

[nicowolf]

...and if it does leak (which, by the way, mine does not), there is no finicky automatic switch to get stuck, no ultrasensitive electronic components to malfunction, so where is the problem? My 901s have leaked much more than my 510s, getting half the box wet and sticky. I simply clean it with a damp cloth, air it out for a bit, and keep on going. I have yet to have a problem caused by leakage, no matter how badly I have flooded the atomizer.

 

[mnealtx]

You still don't get it. Where do you think the air is coming from that you are using to create the vapor flow? If the atomizer were sealed completely your e-cig couldn't function. The air is coming from holes in the atomizer. On the 510 atty the holes are located just above the threads on the bottom of the atty. All attys have to breath to function. If those atty holes are inside the box then there is a possiblility of leak.

Kevin

I "get it" just fine, thanks - and I'd appreciate it if, first off, you'd assume I'm smart enough to tie my own shoes and, second, actually READ WHAT THE **** I'M SAYING.

I've NEVER said that the ATOMIZER is sealed - I said that the CONNECTOR that I am using is sealed, just like a manual battery. With the atomizer attached, the vent holes are within the connector - that is why the manual batteries have the notches in the very top of the connector, to provide an air path through to the vent holes of the atomizer since the center air path is blocked.

Since my CONNECTOR is sealed, the only way for juice to leak is for me to so severely overload the atomizer that it leaks over the top of the connector, and, since I've never done that even on my manual batteries, I think I'm pretty safe.

 

[a2dcovert]

I'm not saying that it is a big problem. Just wanting to avoid a messy box. Looks like we might all have to become moders if the ill informed FDA follows through with their intentions. i've bought all the supplies I can afford right now. I hope it's enough.

Kevin

 

[a2dcovert]

I "get it" just fine, thanks - and I'd appreciate it if, first off, you'd assume I'm smart enough to tie my own shoes and, second, actually READ WHAT THE **** I'M SAYING.

I've NEVER said that the ATOMIZER is sealed - I said that the CONNECTOR that I am using is sealed, just like a manual battery. With the atomizer attached, the vent holes are within the connector - that is why the manual batteries have the notches in the very top of the connector, to provide an air path through to the vent holes of the atomizer since the center air path is blocked.

Since my CONNECTOR is sealed, the only way for juice to leak is for me to so severely overload the atomizer that it leaks over the top of the connector, and, since I've never done that even on my manual batteries, I think I'm pretty safe.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean for my comments to be condescending. I was afraid I wasn't explaining it properly. Guess I'm getting a little on edge with the FDA's latest threats to tromp on our rights.

Kevin

 

[four2109]

Kevin, I find that the minimal leakage that can/does occur, I prefer to be inside the box and not on the out side and on my hands. I much prefer the look and size of a recessed connector. I am however considering the intake of air across the battery and various adhesives before I inhale it. This another issue that isn't clear with the standard auto batt e-cigs. If there has been a discussion on appropriate adhesives, beyond neatness and durability, I have missed it.
I did have a switch stick and the box got hot enough to soften some adhesive and produce a very foul taste. (Don't tell my insurance company that.) So I am considering exterior connections, but not over worries about leakage.

Maybe we can get some feedback on pros and cons of various adhesives/epoxys... anyone??
JB Weld?
Super Glue?
Hot Glue?.. Never know what you have there..
Ded.?. uses Plumber's Putty..water supply, sounds the safest... the stuff I am familiar with doesn't harden...?

Is there already a thread about these?

 

[a2dcovert]

When I built my mod box I meant to build an alternative battery. That's what I built, a battery. I can replace the box with a stock battery just as easily as I changed batteries before. I have 3 attys in my current rotation and I switch frequently, usually daily. Others may not agree with my logic but but this system works for me.

The sticking switch is a very real issue. That's one reason I put in the LED, I just like the feedback it provides.

Kevin

 

[framitz]

You still don't get it. Where do you think the air is coming from that you are using to create the vapor flow? If the atomizer were sealed completely your e-cig couldn't function. The air is coming from holes in the atomizer. On the 510 atty the holes are located just above the threads on the bottom of the atty. All attys have to breath to function. If those atty holes are inside the box then there is a possiblility of leak.

Kevin

If it leaks inside the recessed tube... so what, it wipes off. It beats having it on your hands when it leaks. The atty can breath either way.

 

[a2dcovert]

I'm having problems understanding the resistance to my sealed battery box. The factory batteries that shorted out due to fluid leaking in were criticized. The newer manual batteries that are sealed against this were welcomed and praised. You guys do what you want to, I'm going to try to keep the juice out of my box.


Kevin

 

[mnealtx]

I'm having problems understanding the resistance to my sealed battery box. The factory batteries that shorted out due to fluid leaking in were criticized. The newer manual batteries that are sealed against this were welcomed and praised. You guys do what you want to, I'm going to try to keep the juice out of my box.


Kevin

It's not 'resistance', per se - it's more how you're presenting it. You keep saying "the atomizer has a hole in it, you're going to flood your boxes".

We're saying "if you flood the atomizer, it's going to leak regardless of where it is - do you want the juice inside the box or all over your hands?"

The battery connector (NOT the atomizer) that *I* am using is sealed, just like a manual battery. The ONLY way I can leak fluid is to to overlow the entire battery connector - just like with a manual battery.

Since I'm not in the habit of dripping 20 or so drops at a time, I think I'm reasonably safe.

 

[nicowolf]

I'm having problems understanding the resistance to my sealed battery box. The factory batteries that shorted out due to fluid leaking in were criticized. The newer manual batteries that are sealed against this were welcomed and praised. You guys do what you want to, I'm going to try to keep the juice out of my box.


Kevin

It is all a matter of personal preference. The problem with the factory batteries isn't so much that they short out, as the switch gets stuck. Either the switch sticks in the off position and the battery will show as charging when you put it on a charger, but won't light up or provide power when attached to an atomizer, or it sticks in the on position and creates one very hot, baked atomizer. Either way, the battery is almost useless afterwards. With the mods, the switch is much more hearty, and provides the user with some control. The batteries used in the mods are removeable and replaceable. If you get some liquid on your battery in a mod, you simply wipe it off and allow it to dry. With the factory batteries, you could not wipe the juice off because you could not access it in any way other than to destroy the "battery".

I, for one, choose which fears I will let govern my behavior. I buy only protected batteries now, so my fears of short circuit and overdischarge are minimized. I did not stock up on water and canned goods and alkaline batteries to prepare for Y2K. I did not run out and build a bomb shelter during the Cold War. I did not cower at home after 9/11. And I am not afraid enough of a little juice to make my mod bigger by putting my atomizer on the outside of the box.

I have made a few box mods with the atomizer mounted on the surface of the box, and I didn't like that the joint between the atomizer connector and the box would not remain strong, or that the atomizer sticking up interrupted the aesthetic of the mod. If you choose to mount your atomizer externally, that is wonderful - congratulations on being brave enough to do the less popular thing, to not be part of the herd. Your posts in this thread have the feel of an evangelist trying to convert others. I am not converted, nor will I be anytime soon. You are getting hostility and defensiveness in our posts because your approach is to say that our way is somehow 'wrong'. No one is against you doing whatever you want with your little plastic box, just don't tell us what to do with ours.

 

[a2dcovert]

Perception is very difficult to predict and even harder to control. I should have recognized what was happening and just backed off. The obvious bias would trump any attempt to compromise. Further discussion would be just as fruitless as in the past.

This was your thread, I should't have made comments that appeared to be critical your design. I should have started my own thread, lesson learned.

Kevin

 

[seminolewind]

Nico, I still thank you for sharing this mod. My Nicostick is the LEAST amount of fuss. The batt lasts me almost all day. Everything else is great. And I've never had a leak at all. Ever. I gave up my 801's cause I was using them wrapped in a paper towell.

The other thing is with this batt, the vapor doesn't spend half it's life dropping off like the 901 batts. This thing is the greatest.

 

[four2109]

Me too, I have two that I use throughout the day. Now I have 7 charged auto batts just sitting there. Occasionally in the evening I want the feel of a cig and hook one up.. but I get tired of sucking really fast.

 

[Carlos49]

I now have several nicosticks and I have NEVER had any of them leak into the box. Maybe I'm just lucky ...

 

[a2dcovert]

Well it's day 3 of my nicostick use. Everything is going great so far. I can do an entire day on 2 batteries. I'm using the Trustfire 14500 batteries w/PCB. The battery is slightly longer than an AA battery and does fit snugly in the box. I thought at first the batteries were not going to fit.

I'm glad I mounted the battery connector so the connection to the atty is outside of the box. Today I started using the new and improved JC Tennessee Cured juice and it is thinner than the other juice I was using. I got my first leak and I didn't get any juice in the box.

To me this configuration is the best e-cig out there. The performance of the 510 with great battery life using inexpensive off the shelf batteries.

Now if I could find my favorite juice...

As I previously posted, this is the best and easiest mod I've seen anywhere. Wolf did us all a great service by posting this design.

Kevin

 

[Lazarus]

I noticed the moment switch listed is a very tight fit in the AA case depth wise. It actually doesn't fit by a mm or two (bulges out the case when screwed together) Any work around, or possibly a lower profile switch that fits a little better? The only other one my local RS has is a modified microswitch that looks pretty flimsy.

I'm going to mess with it this weekend to see if I can modify the depth of the switch without destroying it.

 

[nicowolf]

I usually bend the solder tabs 90 degrees to fit the switch into the box.

You could also use these from Rat Shark.

Mini SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (4-Pack) - RadioShack.com


I used them in a few earlier mods and had no issues.


I have also sanded an area of the box lid to accomodate the switch (sometimes I get a little carried away with putting epoxy on the connections).

 

[seminolewind]

I noticed the moment switch listed is a very tight fit in the AA case depth wise. It actually doesn't fit by a mm or two (bulges out the case when screwed together) Any work around, or possibly a lower profile switch that fits a little better? The only other one my local RS has is a modified microswitch that looks pretty flimsy.

I'm going to mess with it this weekend to see if I can modify the depth of the switch without destroying it.

The last one I made I put a sort of washer on the outside under the switch just to raise it up a tiny bit, and that solved it.

 

[Lazarus]

I usually bend the solder tabs 90 degrees to fit the switch into the box.

You could also use these from Rat Shark.

Mini SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (4-Pack) - RadioShack.com


I used them in a few earlier mods and had no issues.


I have also sanded an area of the box lid to accomodate the switch (sometimes I get a little carried away with putting epoxy on the connections).

The last one I made I put a sort of washer on the outside under the switch just to raise it up a tiny bit, and that solved it.

The external washer sounds like a good work-around.

Thanks for your input.