DUD builds

[TomCatt]

With the o-ring, mine lines up pretty much where ever I want it to.

I have heard that people are sanding/filing the edge down to get the hole to line up.

 

[LucidAce]

With the o-ring, mine lines up pretty much where ever I want it to.

I have heard that people are sanding/filing the edge down to get the hole to line up.

Yeah; it'd be nice if you could just tighten it all the way down and everything was in line, but with that o-ring you can adjust all the way around without it being loose/wobbly.

 

[tizz]

With the o-ring, mine lines up pretty much where ever I want it to.

I have heard that people are sanding/filing the edge down to get the hole to line up.

thats what im thinking about doing..taking a dremel tool to the bottom of the cap and slowly grind it down.

 

[munchichee]

so i've heard the real DID screws will fit on the china DID but there is NWIH i am paying $5 per nut and screw plus shipping from Greece. does anyone know where to get the same nuts (wider dia than the china version) and thumb screws as the real DID? I've looked at mcmaster-carr and found some Metric Precision Shoulder Screws but not knurled. I found knurled thumb screws but those are different than what the DID uses. as are the stainless steel knurled thumb nuts. Does anyone have any clue as to what the dimensions and threading are on these?

 

[Nurzrachit]

thats what im thinking about doing..taking a dremel tool to the bottom of the cap and slowly grind it down.

Or you could try adding a thicker rubber o-ring. With mine fully snug it lines up opposite the wick, but I just backed it off a little and it was still snug enough with the hole nearly on the wick.

Tattooed if you are still trying, buy some 33/34 kanthal if you would like to bring up the ohm's and not have to make so many wraps.

I Have some 28 and 30 guage Nichrome that I use on my DFW Ratank, but the wick is so long I can put 15 wraps on it, and it barely reaches 2 ohm's! However the vapor is ridonkulous! Kick azz thread to this point, awesome knowledge sharing and some great pics. Thanks to all participants to this point, moaking my builds easier each time!

 

[tizz]

so you guys are adjusting the o-ring to make the air hole line up? how?


nevermind.

 

[tattooed]

any more advice on getting a higher resistance setup? I still can't get this thing high enough to not error on my Provari V1. I'm tempted to get another device but until I know if this is for me, I'd rather not blow anymore money.

 

[spraintz]

Tattooed, would you mind doing a quick test for me?

make yer coil and wick like you normally would, then carefully slide the wick completely out so all yer left with is the coil only connected to the POS and NEG. start at a low voltage and fire it. check the resistance and tell me what you see.

Lemme know.

 

[RedFox]

any more advice on getting a higher resistance setup? I still can't get this thing high enough to not error on my Provari V1. I'm tempted to get another device but until I know if this is for me, I'd rather not blow anymore money.

I just achieved an 8 wrap 3.0ohm with 32 kanthal. My other I got 2.8 on with the same. I have found that I wrap the coil better out of the DUD before installing (fat fingers I guess). I am using the rolling paper method. I think that I was getting shorts before that were screwing with my resistance check. I install the wick like I normally would, but only to check the length and width of the rolling paper I will be using. Then I remove and wrap the wick with the rolling paper and kanthal. I re-install the wick (making sure that it is not touching the bottom of the tank) and attach the end of the kanthal. After that I dry burn the coil to burn off the rolling paper, and finally I blow off the excess ash.

 

[tiburonfirst]

any more advice on getting a higher resistance setup? I still can't get this thing high enough to not error on my Provari V1. I'm tempted to get another device but until I know if this is for me, I'd rather not blow anymore money.

pm me your address. i got some 33awg kanthal that might help. i can send you enough for a few wicks

 

[tattooed]

Tattooed, would you mind doing a quick test for me?

make yer coil and wick like you normally would, then carefully slide the wick completely out so all yer left with is the coil only connected to the POS and NEG. start at a low voltage and fire it. check the resistance and tell me what you see.

Lemme know.

ok, thats really interesting, without the wick, the coil is 2.5 ohm.

 

[tattooed]

pm me your address. i got some 33awg kanthal that might help. i can send you enough for a few wicks

I appreciate it, let me rule out that I'm not just doing something stupid first but I very well may take you up on it. Thanks.

 

[tiburonfirst]

ok, thats really interesting, without the wick, the coil is 2.5 ohm.

try and buffer the wick with that cotton method, maybe there's not enough oxidation on your wick

 

[tiburonfirst]

I appreciate it, let me rule out that I'm not just doing something stupid first but I very well may take you up on it. Thanks.

anytime, just lmk ..... i'm in va also - it should get to you in no time if usps cooperates

 

[tattooed]

I'll give the cotton method a shot when I get home. Thanks.

and w00t! another Virginian! Where about in VA?

 

[RedFox]

ok, thats really interesting, without the wick, the coil is 2.5 ohm.

There you go, you're shorting out. You should be able to get it going now. Good luck!

I'll give the cotton method a shot when I get home. Thanks.

and w00t! another Virginian! Where about in VA?

Make sure you don't dry burn the cotton.

Amherst, VA here About an hour south of Charlottesville or half hour north of Lynchburg. You?

 

[tattooed]

Harrisonburg. C-Ville meet?


I'm guessing my short issue is the wick not being oxidized enough, which is weird because I burn the crap out of it. I gotta say, building flashlight mods back in the day was less frustrating and I never thought there would be something more frustrating to come along.

 

[spraintz]

ok, thats really interesting, without the wick, the coil is 2.5 ohm.

Alrighty, now we are getting somewhere.

This proves pretty much beyond the shadow of a doubt there was a short of some kind. Maybe between the wick and coil....maybe between the wick and tank.

This is why I highly suggest the cotton method of the wick. Oxidizing wick alone is all well and good but you can still short through that oxidized layer if you aren't careful.

Using the cotton method doesn't mean you will 100% eliminate shorts but the success rate of no shorts with a stable(predictable) resistance is is extremely high and that bit of cotton helps to protect that oxidized layer.

When you think about it, it's pretty straight forward. Electricity will take the path of least resistance. Make sure to force it to only one path (like running the coil without the wick) and you will see the stable expected result.

the idea is to try to force current through that same single path (no shorts....get it....shorter path) while you have the wick in there. The cotton acts to isolate the coil from the SS wick while still maintaining good juice coverage and still force/direct current through the coil only.

Hope this helps...

 

[RedFox]

One of my properties is in Harrisonburg. Who knows, we may have actually crossed paths once before.

Yeah, there is definitely a learning curve to these. I was having big issues getting it oxidized properly as well. I am still having some minor wicking issues, but I'll get it eventually. I have rolled quite a few now....everything from rolling so tight that it seems like a solid piece of SS to so loose that its nearly impossible to coil. So far for me the ones that have worked the best are the wicks that I can barely fit a piece of kanthal through...lol

 

[martinc]

Indeed,but you are very very close to perfection if all you have is low res and no definite short

Its rather easy to oxydize a mesh,shorts mainly come from making the coil and manipulation afterwards.