DUD builds

[RedFox]

Question, are you guys using the coil/wick setup that was delivered with these?

Edit: I definitely don't think you are, RedFox. lol

When I first got it I tried it out, and to be honest it might have been ok. But....I had just purchased a bunch of kanthal and mesh off ebay so I figured I'd use it instead. I think I prefer the 400 mesh over the 325 anyway. Seems to wick better. I plan on ordering some 500 after a bit.

 

[TBinAZ]

The wicks I got with mine were only an inch long. The coils were workable, all twisted to heck, but heck, I have a spool of K and a nice sheet of mesh. Ya know? lol. I'm sure I could have made it work, but I removed. I can still use the wicks they sent in my Phoenix RBAs, so still a win.

When I first got it I tried it out, and to be honest it might have been ok. But....I had just purchased a bunch of kanthal and mesh off ebay so I figured I'd use it instead. I think I prefer the 400 mesh over the 325 anyway. Seems to wick better. I plan on ordering some 500 after a bit.

 

[spraintz]

having no issues with shorts but here is my only complaint about these RA's. The vapor is minimal..i can get good flavor and OK throat hit but the vapor production is not all that great. somebody mentioned the size of the air hole. If it is enlarged, will this increase vapor production? i have 3 of these things so i might do some experimenting this weekend.

Like RedFox stated My air hole is directly inline with the wick and this thing makes the same vapor as my BliSS,.....big ole clouds of vapor.
It's a smaller vapor "chamber" and very sensitive to the air hole position.

I think for your issue I would work to make sure that air hole is at the wick.....and I mean right directly at it.
You could also be wicking too well and flooding, but even that would clear up after a couple of vapes....

 

[dawghouse]

After 2 weeks of using my DUD I come across my first big problem - a short somewhere in the center tube. Unit stopped firing, so I checked my coils...everything fine. Just to be sure I recoiled. Still nothing on my Lavatube. Checked resistance...way high. Started thinking my trusty mesh wick was shorting. Pulled the wick and checked the resistance on various points on the wick - not the problem. So I ran a 1.5" 32 Kanthal wire from the negative to the post without wick...no contact anywhere but the negative screw and the center post. No go - high resistance. Pulled the wire (i.e. no mesh, no wire) should get no continuity between the center post and the outside of the threads yet I'm getting 1.2 ohms. Pulled the entire unit apart and nothing apparent - the machining quality inside the center tube is atrocious, but I don't think that's the problem. Was a little ejuice in the tube...a very little where none should be. Was thinking perhaps the juice was causing the short between the center post and the ground - ran paper towel through the tube, reassembled and still getting continuity between center post and ground. I think the cheapy shoulder washers on either end are getting sloppy probably at the top end due to heat. Other than that I have no idea and I'm tired of fussing with it for today. Going to look for a solution to insulate all the way up the tube - will report back if I find a reasonable solution.

BTW - the screws in the top are not metric, they are #1-72 - if you find a supplier for a knurled-head screw let me know, I can't find one. I'm not thrilled having to use the stupid little allen wrench.

 

[spraintz]

thin wall PTF tubing might help an an insulator if that is in fact the issue

 

[RedFox]

After 2 weeks of using my DUD I come across my first big problem - a short somewhere in the center tube. Unit stopped firing, so I checked my coils...everything fine. Just to be sure I recoiled. Still nothing on my Lavatube. Checked resistance...way high. Started thinking my trusty mesh wick was shorting. Pulled the wick and checked the resistance on various points on the wick - not the problem. So I ran a 1.5" 32 Kanthal wire from the negative to the post without wick...no contact anywhere but the negative screw and the center post. No go - high resistance. Pulled the wire (i.e. no mesh, no wire) should get no continuity between the center post and the outside of the threads yet I'm getting 1.2 ohms. Pulled the entire unit apart and nothing apparent - the machining quality inside the center tube is atrocious, but I don't think that's the problem. Was a little ejuice in the tube...a very little where none should be. Was thinking perhaps the juice was causing the short between the center post and the ground - ran paper towel through the tube, reassembled and still getting continuity between center post and ground. I think the cheapy shoulder washers on either end are getting sloppy probably at the top end due to heat. Other than that I have no idea and I'm tired of fussing with it for today. Going to look for a solution to insulate all the way up the tube - will report back if I find a reasonable solution.

BTW - the screws in the top are not metric, they are #1-72 - if you find a supplier for a knurled-head screw let me know, I can't find one. I'm not thrilled having to use the stupid little allen wrench.

I had the same problem as you, my resistance would jump up to 9.9 on my EVO LCD. I don't think that you are shorting out?? With mine everything was working great til I discovered that the syringe clear tube that I made was a tad too long and not letting the center tube (not pin in the middle) make sufficient contact with the top and bottom threaded caps. While the rubber grommets were keeping the unit from leaking I had lost my ground.

Did you by chance make a tube for yours?

With your meter, see if you have connection between the top and bottom (between the center tube). If that makes since.

Edit: To fix mine I shortened the clear tube to allow the top and bottom cap to make the ground sufficiently.


Edit 2: Obviously I needed more coffee and a chance to wake up. Just re-read your post again. If you have an old cartos laying around you can grab the grommet out of one of those and maybe shrink tubing?

 

[dawghouse]

thin wall PTF tubing might help an an insulator if that is in fact the issue

Good idea.

 

[dawghouse]

I had the same problem as you, my resistance would jump up to 9.9 on my EVO LCD. I don't think that you are shorting out?? With mine everything was working great til I discovered that the syringe clear tube that I made was a tad too long and not letting the center tube (not pin in the middle) make sufficient contact with the top and bottom threaded caps. While the rubber grommets were keeping the unit from leaking I had lost my ground.

Did you by chance make a tube for yours?

With your meter, see if you have connection between the top and bottom (between the center tube). If that makes since.

Edit: To fix mine I shortened the clear tube to allow the top and bottom cap to make the ground sufficiently.


Edit 2: Obviously I needed more coffee and a chance to wake up. Just re-read your post again. If you have an old cartos laying around you can grab the grommet out of one of those and maybe shrink tubing?

I did in fact make a clear tube for mine, but I've tested it without the tube in place and I'm getting continuity between the center pin and ground. Whether the center tube was solidly grounded to the top or not there should be no continuity between the center post and 510 threads. There's a short somewhere in the body and I can't see any other possiblity than inside that tube. Either that or I need more coffee too.

 

[TBinAZ]

If all of the center post rubber insulators are in place properly, I really can't see how this is happening. Is it possible that the battery end of the positive rod is touching the 510 threaded section when screwed on the battery?

 

[dawghouse]

If all of the center post rubber insulators are in place properly, I really can't see how this is happening. Is it possible that the battery end of the positive rod is touching the 510 threaded section when screwed on the battery?

I checked the battery end and no apparent contact. The contact has to be somewhere along that positive post if I'm getting continuity between threads and the center post. Believe me, I couldn't see how this was happening, but the meter don't lie. Started to question the meter, so I took a known working wick/coil combo off a Nova tank and mounted on the DUD...would not fire on any of 5 devices. I'm open to trying any suggestions.

If I had the right equipment I'd also check to see whether that center post is totally straight - looks okay, but there's not a lot of room if either the center tube or post are slightly out.

I'm going to borrow a buddy's meter but I doubt my mega-expensive meter is the issue.

Hotspots I can deal with...this one has me puzzled.

 

[TBinAZ]

I'm sure this is nothing you want to hear ever, but send it to me and I can have a look. LOL (I'm an old hotrodder and I would be offended if you suggested that to me.) But hey... ya know?

I checked the battery end and no apparent contact. The contact has to be somewhere along that positive post if I'm getting continuity between threads and the center post. Believe me, I couldn't see how this was happening, but the meter don't lie. Started to question the meter, so I took a known working wick/coil combo off a Nova tank and mounted on the DUD...would not fire on any of 5 devices. I'm open to trying any suggestions.

If I had the right equipment I'd also check to see whether that center post is totally straight - looks okay, but there's not a lot of room if either the center tube or post are slightly out.

I'm going to borrow a buddy's meter but I doubt my mega-expensive meter is the issue.

Hotspots I can deal with...this one has me puzzled.

 

[tattooed]

Finally got to sit down with this thing and using the cotton ball trick, I got it to work flawlessly on the first attempt. 2.2 ohm

Thanks again, everyone, you guys rock.

 

[dawghouse]

Thanks TBinAZ but I haven't given up yet...though if I don't get this figured out I'll keep the offer in mind.

 

[RedFox]

Double post from an edit?

 

[RedFox]

Congrats tattooed!!

Dawg, have you looked at the grommets to make sure there were no cut in them? They are going all the way through the hole where the center pin goes? Since it is such a tight fit for the center pin to pass through, have you noticed any bends?

 

[tizz]

to the folks having issues with the dud not firing, make sure the positive post is pushed out enough to make contact with the battery terminal on your device..that was my issue.

 

[RedFox]

to the folks having issues with the dud not firing, make sure the positive post is pushed out enough to make contact with the battery terminal on your device..that was my issue.

Good point, don't know why I didn't think of that? The happened to me as well when I over tightened the nut on top.

 

[junkman]

Hey guys. Just ordered one of these from Clouds of Vapor. Will be my first rebuildable experience. Appreciate the forum and all you guys on it for guidance for a noob.....

 

[dawghouse]

Congrats tattooed!!

Dawg, have you looked at the grommets to make sure there were no cut in them? They are going all the way through the hole where the center pin goes? Since it is such a tight fit for the center pin to pass through, have you noticed any bends?

Grommets fine, though a bit sloppy after 2 weeks of heavy vaping. Definitely inside the tube. Used shrink wrap to cover middle 2/3 of center post and continuity gone. Recoiled, reading 1.4 ohms and fires fine. Going to look for a PTFE tube to replace grommets and insure no contact in tube going forward. Shrink wrap will work, but looking for a less cludgey solution and I'll do all three of my DUDs.

 

[speedemon]

to the folks having issues with the dud not firing, make sure the positive post is pushed out enough to make contact with the battery terminal on your device..that was my issue.

I also had this issue after i disasembled mine and put a clear tank on it witch buy the way is awsome on there now i can see my juice and ware my wick is.When i put it back together i over tightened the 1st nut on positive post thos pulls up the connection to much then not good contact to mod all good now though.Remove all 3 nuts push positive pin down a little put 1st nut just snug to grommet.