DUD builds

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bubbajoe72

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Stumbled upon this setup yesterday. Works quite well. Especially for those who lost some of their fasteners. (I didn't, so if anyone is needing them let me know...) Spring is from a click pen. Washer came from same pen, but can be obtained for pretty cheap elsewhere. The added airflow really helps a lot.

View attachment 144567

I like this idea. It might even help with some center post issues caused by screwing the rba down too tight into the battery.
 

TBinAZ

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Really. How big did you drill it out? I've been thinking about that.

As far as the extra fasteners I have, I have 4 of these CHIDs, and plan to do this to all of them, so I have quite a few extra. Let me know.

Yes a great idea, but for me it will not be for the ease of attaching the wire but to slim down the post as I have enlarged the wick hole and lost some of the clearance between wick and post.
 
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TBinAZ

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Yup this works good, but you need to be able to match the wick thickness every time, or it is a pain to get proper contact with the coil. This method works awesome for the Phoenix style attys if you want to try mesh.

For the geni style attys I've had greater success with the Zen method found in this video. How to Wrap a Zen Atty Coil, ft. ~Zen - YouTube The camera sux, but you will get the gist. Very little prep work needed.

This may have already been mentioned, but.....

I just tried the Petar K method here, and it is working better than anything that I have tried. Zero shorts, and it is wicking great!


Edit: Credit to munchichee for turning me on to this.
 

TBinAZ

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Actually, the over tightening thing can't be cured. That comes down to how well the seal in the 510 connector is working. I'm trying to find some kind of alternative for what is provided. Will post when I find it.

I like this idea. It might even help with some center post issues caused by screwing the RBA down too tight into the battery.
 

junkman

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Yup this works good, but you need to be able to match the wick thickness every time, or it is a pain to get proper contact with the coil. This method works awesome for the Phoenix style attys if you want to try mesh.

For the geni style attys I've had greater success with the Zen method found in this video. How to Wrap a Zen Atty Coil, ft. ~Zen - YouTube The camera sux, but you will get the gist. Very little prep work needed.

This is probably a better Zen coil video. zenesis coil basics - YouTube
 

RedFox

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I strayed from his tutorial a bit with the sizes of everything, but followed it more or less. For my Chid, I used a small straightened paperclip, and a 1/16th drill bit for the rolling of the mesh. Then I used a 3/32 drill bit for my coil. I also used 2cm of #500 mesh the length of the tank instead of the 1cm short piece that he used.

Using the paperclip, 1/16th drill bit, and 3/32 for the coil I don't think I will have any problems matching the thickness.

Yup this works good, but you need to be able to match the wick thickness every time, or it is a pain to get proper contact with the coil. This method works awesome for the Phoenix style attys if you want to try mesh.

For the geni style attys I've had greater success with the Zen method found in this video. How to Wrap a Zen Atty Coil, ft. ~Zen - YouTube The camera sux, but you will get the gist. Very little prep work needed.
 

bubbajoe72

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Actually, the over tightening thing can't be cured. That comes down to how well the seal in the 510 connector is working. I'm trying to find some kind of alternative for what is provided. Will post when I find it.

I've found that sometimes after a rebuild and I screw the atty down, I need to readjust the center post screws because it pushes it up enough for the wire to somehow lose contact. I was thinking that maybe with a spring, there should be enough constant tension on the wire to keep it from moving.
 

TBinAZ

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Nice, man. I'm gonna try that next time.

I strayed from his tutorial a bit with the sizes of everything, but followed it more or less. For my Chid, I used a small straightened paperclip, and a 1/16th drill bit for the rolling of the mesh. Then I used a 3/32 drill bit for my coil. I also used 2cm of #500 mesh the length of the tank instead of the 1cm short piece that he used.

Using the paperclip, 1/16th drill bit, and 3/32 for the coil I don't think I will have any problems matching the thickness.
 

TBinAZ

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Well, see, it doesn't really matter what kind of fastening you have on the pos post. The post will push up and there isn't anything to pull it back down other than the 510 connector grommet. You could have 6 screws on the upper post, and it won't do any good to move it back down. That's kind of what fueled the idea about the spring. No need for all those fat knurled screws. Yes, you will have to reposition when building a new coil.

I've found that sometimes after a rebuild and I screw the atty down, I need to readjust the center post screws because it pushes it up enough for the wire to somehow lose contact. I was thinking that maybe with a spring, there should be enough constant tension on the wire to keep it from moving.
 

RedFox

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Cool. Oh, remember one thing. Don't over-tighten the coil to the positive and negative posts. When I did the first time it kinda warps (pulls) the coil out of shape causing shorts.

While I cannot knock the 100mm tight rolled #500 no hole wicks.....with this I can make 5 times as many wicks. I have no wicking issues with the #500 solid wick setups that I am running.
 

TBinAZ

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I'd really like to try the 500, but I have a decent sheet of 400 right now. Working well for me. I saw a thread working on 635 or something. Is that really much better?

Cool. Oh, remember one thing. Don't over-tighten the coil to the positive and negative posts. When I did the first time it kinda warps (pulls) the coil out of shape causing shorts.

While I cannot knock the 100mm tight rolled #500 no hole wicks.....with this I can make 5 times as many wicks. I have no wicking issues with the #500 solid wick setups that I am running.
 

RedFox

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I started with 400 as well, but for sure noticed a difference between 400 to 500. I'm not sure about the 635? There is a co-op going on for it right now and BJ is getting some 635 to run tests on.

I would think that it would, but I am kinda torn as to when it would be too much and start flooding??? I can tell you this. When I started using 500, I was plagued with shorts all the time. I had to start using my 28 and 30 kanthal to eliminate the problem.

I'd really like to try the 500, but I have a decent sheet of 400 right now. Working well for me. I saw a thread working on 635 or something. Is that really much better?
 

RedFox

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Start reading from here. This was brought to my attention from here.

I noticed this problem just after I received my 500 mesh. No matter what I did, I could not get my 32 kanthal to not short. As soon as I switched to 28 and 30 I have had no problems with shorts. Now it all makes sense.

Thanks Boden and BJ :)
 

dwcraig1

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Really. How big did you drill it out? I've been thinking about that.

As far as the extra fasteners I have, I have 4 of these CHIDs, and plan to do this to all of them, so I have quite a few extra. Let me know.
I need to measure it to be sere but I think it was 1/8" (3.5 mm), it can not be made much bigger or it will be getting into the o-ring groove and the coils on the wick almost touch the knurled nuts.
 

Smokfreedoc

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Can someone help me increase my vapor production? Or some trouble shooting tips?

I have the did clone set up with 500mesh, 3/2 wrap with 32awg kanthal but after watching countless YouTube videos my vapor production is nowhere close to what I've been seeing. I'm using HHV HT 60/40, I don't have any hot spots, and I'm reading 1.3ohms. Also using a vtube mod. The air hole is lined up with the wick and it's on the bottom while I vape..
 

junkman

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Can someone help me increase my vapor production? Or some trouble shooting tips?

I have the did clone set up with 500mesh, 3/2 wrap with 32awg kanthal but after watching countless YouTube videos my vapor production is nowhere close to what I've been seeing. I'm using HHV HT 60/40, I don't have any hot spots, and I'm reading 1.3ohms. Also using a vtube mod. The air hole is lined up with the wick and it's on the bottom while I vape..

Have you tried more wraps and higher ohms? Seems like more wraps would give more surface area to provide vapor. Just something to try.
 

Smokfreedoc

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The highest I went was 1.8ohms with a 5/4 wrap.. Wasn't much better. Then again I wasn't using 500 mesh. I just used what was given with the atty.. I'm guessing it was 325. I guess when is wick and coil burn out I will try that again.
Thanks for the advice! This is my first RBA and just wanted it to produce the plumes I've been seeing, I defiantly notice the taste difference!
 
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