E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion

[bssage]

I've read so much trying to get caught up I think my head is going to explode. I am just going to say whats on my mind as some addresses specific items mentioned in the thread and some not.

Its only my opinion so there is no need for anyone to get anything in a wad.

I started with the originals and they were PITA kept trying until I got some of the ceramic first edition off the classifieds. Have not looked back since.

I am using a buzz adjusted low voltage. I remove all O rings. I dry burn blowing the smoke clear until there is no more visable smoke. Then fill like a beer glass starting at the notched out portions of the cup. About ten drops then turn until full. Then I vape like a feind. I continue to refill popping off my drip tip and side dripping untill full then a drop or two on the coil. Good to go. When the vape slows down I remove the carto and empty any remaining juice just letting it air dry for a day or so. When the gunk on the coil looks good and dry I dry burn which I can see the dried gunk busting off as I go. Rinse, dry burn again and I'm back to rock and rolling.

You guys are scaring me with all the proposed changes. I have been rotating 4 for going on three weeks with no end in site. I should note that I carry my buzz on a lanyard or set it upright. If its on its side its only for a couple of seconds and have not had a problem with leaking.

 

[br5495]

I see that's true...The 1920's would have been a difficult time for electronics. So what was it really like? The incites of someone who was actually there would be fascinating to say the least.

Where resistors are concerned, they only required one with a resistance too high for nichrome wire. The resistor was what they called a grid leak. It was about 3 megohm and drew no current, and was on the grid of the detector tube. They made it by soaking India Ink into a cardboard strip. But then, some guys just made heavy marks with a #3 pencil until it worked well enough. The humidity could change the resistance, heheh.

 

[cozzicon]

Where resistors are concerned, they only required one with a resistance too high for nichrome wire. The resistor was what they called a grid leak. It was about 3 megohm and drew no current, and was on the grid of the detector tube. They made it by soaking India Ink into a cardboard strip. But then, some guys just made heavy marks with a #3 pencil until it worked well enough. The humidity could change the resistance, heheh.

Interesting. In more recent times we used #2 pencils to connect lasered connections to make a microprocessor *think* it was a different model, changing the it's core multiplier, and thus it's core frequency.

The more things change- the more they stay the same.

 

[cozzicon]

Everyone be aware- Clouds of Vapor is carrying 2.5 to 2.6 ohm ce2 v4

 

[badkolo]

yeah cozz, unless you people have a variable device or like ptb modding then i would only use the 2.9 to 3.2 range, the higher the ohm the better they perform.(for me of coarse)

 

[nicotime]

he has no clue where the e2 with glue came form as in shippied to people, he explained hes not the shipper and cant handle all the departments, i do understand that part and let him know that he needs to figure out a way to make sure ....... arent shippe dout but as much as he tries there must be someone higher up then him making other decisions or they arent listening, supposedly people have been fired again. I wont speak for him but he does sound genuienly ...... and embarassed, now that doesnt solve any issues or turn back time, so like i said i cant speak for him other then telling you what i have been told, ive yelled and i have flipped on him like as if he was a child and he seemed as if hes trying to do it all but its just to much to do so, again its no ones problems but microcigs but i think many are targeting and singling out martinez as if he builds the e2, manufactures it, puts them together, packs them and ships them out himself and thats not just not how things work. He has stuck by and gotten the e2 this far and i do appreciate that but these .......s have to go and hes been working on that all day yesterday and today to solve these issues he said.

whatever the issue is they need to get a grip on it. he promised things and most of it was sent, he was shocked my order was wrong and that other people got .......s and already sent out a package today for what was missing and a few extra for a some that need returns from last week.

Hmmm...I thought a CEO is in charge of all departments of a company...I guess not there. Oh well...maybe he will shock me and replace the 60 glued up bastatomizers one day when they get their act together...I wont hold my breath though.

On another note...how about a silicone one piece chisel tip mouthpiece that sticks out about an inch and goes all the way in to seal the two fill holes. Just pull the mouthpiece out..fill and pop it back in...no tools needed to dig out plugs and rings. It would also keep the heat off the lips better too. I have some silicone for molding...I'll make one up when I get a chance.

 

[cozzicon]

yeah cozz, unless you people have a variable device or like ptb modding then i would only use the 2.9 to 3.2 range, the higher the ohm the better they perform.(for me of coarse)

ok... holding off on the purchase to see how this shakes out.

 

[badkolo]

Hmmm...I thought a CEO is in charge of all departments of a company...I guess not there. Oh well...maybe he will shock me and replace the 60 glued up bastatomizers one day when they get their act together...I wont hold my breath though.

On another note...how about a silicone one piece chisel tip mouthpiece that sticks out about an inch and goes all the way in to seal the two fill holes. Just pull the mouthpiece out..fill and pop it back in...no tools needed to dig out plugs and rings. It would also keep the heat off the lips better too. I have some silicone for molding...I'll make one up when I get a chance.

thats what i mentioned a few days ago, the holes could have been extra large, then the center plug has nipples on or the mouth peace and it that would go into the holes when placed on top

 

[kwcharlie]

I believe the skin effect has more to do with ac voltage, especially at VHF. That's when Litz wire may become important. Don't think it matters for direct current. But then, I may be full of Shinola. I don't remember much of that stuff anymore.

Not a factor for DC, you'rr right billy. See CR4 - Thread: skin effect

 

[br5495]

Br is so old he was around when central park was just a plant.


sorry br, i had to.

Shucks, Central Park wasn't nothing but a big rock until a glacier scraped it off during the last ice age.

 

[mutt4a]

is there a way to tell the difference between the R3 and R4 without tearing them apart?

 

[kwcharlie]

and you were the pre-Clovis i have been hunting for

 

[badkolo]

is there a way to tell the difference between the R3 and R4 without tearing them apart?

yes
, remove the innerplug, then use something thin and pointy and go down the outside of the cup, you will feel the new sleeve. if you feel the sleev, its a r4, no sleeve , its not a r4. the new leak deterrent sleeve surrounds the cup up to the bottom of the slits.

 

[br5495]

On another note...how about a silicone one piece chisel tip mouthpiece that sticks out about an inch and goes all the way in to seal the two fill holes. Just pull the mouthpiece out..fill and pop it back in...no tools needed to dig out plugs and rings. It would also keep the heat off the lips better too. I have some silicone for molding...I'll make one up when I get a chance.

Why not make it to also seal the cup from the reservoir? In other words, it takes the place of the seal with the two holes. I have two prototypes made out of brass that do that, but I've known all along that it needs to be molded out of something like silicone.

 

[nicotime]

Why not make it to also seal the cup from the reservoir? In other words, it takes the place of the seal with the two holes. I have two prototypes made out of brass that do that, but I've known all along that it needs to be molded out of something like silicone.

Yea I thought about that too Br...I dont know if it might pull the cup out with it...plus it would have to align with the slots in the cup. It may work..I'll try it too.

 

[br5495]

Interesting. In more recent times we used #2 pencils to connect lasered connections to make a microprocessor *think* it was a different model, changing the it's core multiplier, and thus it's core frequency.

Yep, I've done that too. Good old AMD, heheh.

 

[impcat]

yeah cozz, unless you people have a variable device or like ptb modding then i would only use the 2.9 to 3.2 range, the higher the ohm the better they perform.(for me of coarse)

I have an eGo. Are you saying that the CoV R4's are going to give me trouble? (sigh)

Will the CoV R4's work on a Little Sister VV?

 

[kwcharlie]

Why not make it to also seal the cup from the reservoir? In other words, it takes the place of the seal with the two holes. I have two prototypes made out of brass that do that, but I've known all along that it needs to be molded out of something like silicone.

mold it out of Polymer Clay, check it out, not flexable but can be molded into any shape and then bake in a oven. you judt look like a a Per-Clovis in your new avatar, but you did talk about the ice age

 

[badkolo]

I have an eGo. Are you saying that the CoV R4's are going to give me trouble? (sigh)

Will the CoV R4's work on a Little Sister VV?

im not saying it will, im saying the higher the ohms the better its been.

a ego should be fine but i dont have cod's e2's so i dont want to comment on what he is selling. but so far for me, the higher ohm e2 always performed better then the lower ohm ones, i used 2.6 ohm on a ego with no problems and if some did give me a issue i would add ptb.(r3 and r3.5)

My R4's are all 2.9 to 3.2 so i dont know if the 2.6 r4 performs better or worse then the r3 2.6 ohm

 

[badkolo]

isnt BR's birthday coming up, we are going to need 2 cakes because all the candles wont fit on one