E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion

[br5495]

if its the dry taste only, then like i said its either the juice itself or its the coil being to tight and then during vaping it packs together and tightens further.

you can use something sharp to separate the coil after a dry burn., also lift your wick in the slits a tad if you can.

I began using an older type E-2 yesterday. It has narrow slits and no visible glue. Unlike my first two, it tasted like crap. Not burnt. Just nasty. I removed the rubber tip. It tasted like crap. I removed the filler ring and the taste was better, but not much. I washed everything and dried with a heat gun. It helped a good bit and I can live with the taste. It's getting better with each refill.

Right now I am trying it without modifying the slits. It vapes well enough on a 510 or Hello battery if I smoke it like a cigarette, which is OK by me. However, I can remove the filler ring and it wicks a lot better. Then I can take 5 or 6 "primer" puffs with the button held down. Each puff has more vapor. If I inhale on the last one, the taste is not very good, but I think it is because the juice is too hot.

BTW, my short draws work well because I direct inhale. This gives more bang for the buck and I have almost forgotten how to draw it into my mouth before inhaling.

 

[v1John]

I'm not into vaping boxes, but making a box-like cigarette that could last 2 days, couldn't they make an LCD readout that can display the volts under load for you at the press of a momentary button?

 

[v1John]

I began using an older type E-2 yesterday. It has narrow slits and no visible glue. Unlike my first two, it tasted like crap. Not burnt. Just nasty. I removed the rubber tip. It tasted like crap. I removed the filler ring and the taste was better, but not much. I washed everything and dried with a heat gun. It helped a good bit and I can live with the taste. It's getting better with each refill.

Right now I am trying it without modifying the slits. It vapes well enough on a 510 or Hello battery if I smoke it like a cigarette, which is OK by me. However, I can remove the filler ring and it wicks a lot better. Then I can take 5 or 6 "primer" puffs with the button held down. Each puff has more vapor. If I inhale on the last one, the taste is not very good, but I think it is because the juice is too hot.

BTW, my short draws work well because I direct inhale. This gives more bang for the buck and I have almost forgotten how to draw it into my mouth before inhaling.

BR, do you have a sharp point, needle, pin or something? Is there any way to mess with the wick's very own holes without messing with the slots? The wicks have their very own holes at the bottom of the slots. If this would have been posted a long time ago, maybe they would have enlarged the wick holes and left the slots the way they were and avoided all hot weather leaks.
?

 

[BanjoMan]

I'm not into vaping boxes, but making a box-like cigarette that could last 2 days, couldn't they make an LCD readout that can display the volts under load for you at the press of a momentary button?

Well, there's this guy, but it's not in stock yet.

You can see it in action here.

 

[br5495]

BR, do you have a sharp point, needle, pin or something? Is there any way to mess with the wick's very own holes without messing with the slots? The wicks have their very own holes at the bottom of the slots. If this would have been posted a long time ago, maybe they would have enlarged the wick holes and left the slots the way they were and avoided all hot weather leaks.
?

Well John, right now it is working well enough for me just like it is. The object of this test is to find out how long it works this way. Fortunately, I am satisfied with short puffs at a lower voltage. Maybe that's what this thing was designed for in the first place.

 

[v1John]

Well John, right now it is working well enough for me just like it is. The object of this test is to find out how long it works this way. Fortunately, I am satisfied with short puffs at a lower voltage. Maybe that's what this thing was designed for in the first place.

Aha, I see. I smoke that way, just like real cigarettes, and I think that's exactly what cigarette smokers are waiting for, based on all the smokers I know.

We actually 'learned' to vape 5 to 10 second lung drags because the old filler cartos sometimes required it, but now we can relax and smoke normally. This should be perfect for smokers.

 

[v1John]

I wonder how big(or small), and expensive (or cheap) some 2.7 volt batteries would be, that were about 1200 mah so people could vape like normal smoking at 2.7 volts?

. . .

Has anyone with a naked wick and coil handy tried to soak the wick and burn a shorter wire and less voltage? (approx 2.7volts)?

The shorter wire would mean a coil that is about 1.7 ohms on your 2.7volt circuit




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That's interesting BanjoMan, yes, that's what I meant, but built into the $160 tekkeon or some other expensive cigarette, and it could be LCD, with digits about as small as an LCD wristwatch, only used at the press of a button only on occasion

 

[badkolo]

Here is my theory on why some lose the flavor of the juice on the e2.

using the 2.5 ohm e2, after cutting them in half and testing i noticed the wires get hot.

to the point where if you keep your fingers on them it will burn.
some get hotter then others while some dont get as hot.

this should be improved with the ceramics since that should remove some heat from the wires but ill test that to be sure.

Now I think whats happening is the wires get hot and cook the juice inturn removing the flavor slowly.

you could test this by, taking very short puffs, and letting it cool down, you should get more flavor.

but if you take long drags then your cooking the juice becuase the wires take a few seconds to get hot, then you keep cooking it every time you take a long 6 or 7 second drag. inturn cooking more juice.

This does not happen to me at all using the 3.0 ohm E2. the wires dont get that hot and they seem to retain the flavor much more.

If those wires where insulated Im extremly certain it would solve that issue, but for now we wait for the ceramics and see how that goes.

 

[br5495]

Here is my theory on why some lose the flavor of the juice on the e2.

using the 2.5 ohm e2, after cutting them in half and testing i noticed the wires get hot.

to the point where if you keep your fingers on them it will burn.
some get hotter then others while some dont get as hot.

this should be improved with the ceramics since that should remove some heat from the wires but ill test that to be sure.

Now I think whats happening is the wires get hot and cook the juice inturn removing the flavor slowly.

you could test this by, taking very short puffs, and letting it cool down, you should get more flavor.

but if you take long drags then your cooking the juice becuase the wires take a few seconds to get hot, then you keep cooking it every time you take a long 6 or 7 second drag. inturn cooking more juice.

This does not happen to me at all using the 3.0 ohm E2. the wires dont get that hot and they seem to retain the flavor much more.

If those wires where insulated Im extremly certain it would solve that issue, but for now we wait for the ceramics and see how that goes.

Golly, bad. There are too many factors involved here for me to even make a guess. It seems to me if one of these things gets hot enough to cause a flavor loss, then just reduce the voltage.

However, I do see one thing with mine that could be a factor. The wire size appears to be 31 gauge, which may be too small for a 2.5 ohm load. If so, this could add to the wire temperature. By contrast, a Boge cartomizer has a 29 gauge wire with a 3 ohm load. This wire size is probably suitable for that load. But then, here I am guessing anyhow, when I really didn't mean to do that.

 

[v1John]

Maybe when the hot wire in the reservoir was brought up they put putty on them?

Does anyone have a coil wire exposed (the whole entire wire) that could take a pic or video to see how much more of the wire turns orange in 13 seconds?

 

[v1John]

bad I think you have a good idea. I just don't know or remember where exactly the thin nichrome part begins. Is it just at the cup?

Where is the point where the nichrome is soldered to a thicker, cooler wire?

 

[misterD]

Well, there's this guy, but it's not in stock yet.

You can see it in action here.

or get it for cheaper here:
NEW RC Lipo battery Voltage Indicator voltmeter (1S-6S) - eBay (item 270576533827 end time Sep-06-10 09:02:47 PDT)

 

[v1John]

If they can just get some small wire sleeves made for the wires leading up to the cup...

something like this? It would have to be non-toxic, fiberglass/ceramic?

High Temperature Braided Sleeving

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Here, they sell nichrome wire and also ceramic insulators and
insulating blankets:

Nichrome 60 (NiCr) Resistance Wire
near the bottom, they have the wire blanket.


Or wire insulation, but I don't know how small they make it, is it 24 gauge here?
http://www.infraredheaters.com/sleeving.htm

 

[br5495]

As previously stated, I am testing an E2 with narrow wick slits. I also stated that it wicks better with the filler ring removed. Now I understand why. It is because the filler ring fits too tight on the plastic cup and causes the narrow slit to close up further on the wick. At this point of the game, this really doesn't matter, but it got me to thinking about something else. I'll discuss that later. But first, look at a plastic cup with a wider slot:

As can be seen, the cup is distorted and the slot is more narrow at the top. The filler ring caused this distortion. The distortion probably remains set that way because of the heat involved. Of course, a ceramic cup will keep this from happening, but that's beside the point.

The point now is that I found something else that perfectly fits the rim of the plastic cup. Before going any further, please understand that this is a test. It is not meant for everyone to do this, or for that matter even try it.

The rubber mouthpiece of the E2 fits on the cup. All you have to do is push it down in there far enough. The outer rim under the mouthpiece goes all the way down to the wick. The inner rim is slightly shorter and does not touch the coil. Tests at this time indicate that the seal is just as good or maybe better than the plastic filler ring. But that's also beside the point.

A thin rubber mouthpiece from an older cartomizer can be used to push the new one down to the cup. The old one will go almost all the way in, lacking about 1/32". Now we're getting to the point. If these two pieces were one, then we would have one single piece replacing the original two. If this single piece could be easily removed, then we could fill the E2 directly from a bottle.

Now I am not suggesting that this single piece should me made from the same type material as a rubber mouthpiece. I have already thought of a few things that should work. You can probably think of a few things too.

For the time being, I am using this frigging rigging on an E2 with wide slots. It is working well with a 510 type battery and fair enough with the higher voltage of a KR8 battery. The rubber will melt with a butane lighter, heheh. However, that has not yet been a problem during actual use.

If any of you kids want to try this, wash your hands and wash these pieces before playing with them. Use soap.

 

[v1John]

...
A thin rubber mouthpiece from an older cartomizer can be used to push the new one down to the cup. The old one will go almost all the way in, lacking about 1/32". Now we're getting to the point. If these two pieces were one, then we would have one single piece replacing the original three. If this single piece could be easily removed, then we could fill the E2 directly from a bottle.

Now I am not suggesting that this single piece should me made from the same type material as a rubber mouthpiece. I have already thought of a few things that should work. You can probably think of a few things too.
....
The rubber will melt with a butane lighter, heheh. However, that has not yet been a problem during actual use.

If any of you kids want to try this, wash your hands and wash these pieces before playing with them. Use soap.

BR, we tried the old cartomizer silicone orings, remember? But outdoors away from the computer, in hot weather or driving, liquid can leak through the wide slots. The big mouthpiece would keep the oring in place though.

. . . . .

I have already thought of a few things that should work. You can probably think of a few things too.

What are you thinking of? Please tell us.

I am thinking of enlarging the holes of the inner cap, all of them, especially the inner hole, so that it doesn't stop at the cup and bend it, but go around it instead, and seal it around it instead of over it. The small holes I would enlarge also, much larger, almost the size of the slots which are now mostly covered up by the inner cap. An oring on top would then seal the enlarged filler holes of the modified inner cap, and the mouthpiece would keep the top oring in place?

 

[br5495]

BR, we tried the old cartomizer silicone orings, remember? But outdoors away from the computer, in hot weather or driving, liquid can leak through the wide slots. The big mouthpiece would keep the oring in place though.

. . . . .


What are you thinking of? Please tell us.

I am thinking of enlarging the holes of the inner cap, all of them, especially the inner hole, so that it doesn't stop at the cup and bend it, but go around it instead, and seal it around it instead of over it. The small holes I would enlarge also, much larger, almost the size of the slots which are now mostly covered up by the inner cap. An oring on top would then seal the enlarged filler holes of the modified inner cap, and the mouthpiece would keep the top oring in place?

Quit thinking about all them pieces John. Think about a single piece. That's all. Think about a single piece that looks sort of like a drip tip. That single piece will do everything. It will seal the chamber. It can easily be pulled out. With that single piece pulled out, the cartridge will be wide open. At this point, it would be silly to fill it with a syringe. Instead, fill it directly from your juice bottle.

 

[br5495]

BR, we tried the old cartomizer silicone orings, remember? But outdoors away from the computer, in hot weather or driving, liquid can leak through the wide slots. The big mouthpiece would keep the oring in place though.

I forgot to address this one. The big mouthpiece covers the wide slots. I think it does it better than the plastic ring, and that's what the test is about. Right now it is just being used as a mockup see if the dimensions can be used for making a one piece design.

 

[v1John]

Quit thinking about all them pieces John. Think about a single piece. That's all. Think about a single piece that looks sort of like a drip tip. That single piece will do everything. It will seal the chamber. It can easily be pulled out. With that single piece pulled out, the cartridge will be wide open. At this point, it would be silly to fill it with a syringe. Instead, fill it directly from your juice bottle.

Yes, is there a standard sized tubing in the auto or fish tank stores that will fit inside the 510 or the k808d?

A short piece of tubing could replace the inner cap, and it would need to be a non toxic rubber.

I'm not a dripper either, and didn't get much into drip tips, but one with a silicone tip on the inner end should work, it could even be threaded, with the carto threads up high near the carto rim.

I said rubber tube only for now, it could even be made out of metal, almost like a needed upper half of the carto.


Please continue to read BR's notice that he's not telling people to do this.
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edit add:

Ok, BR, if it fits better than the oring it sounds good. When I tested the oring outdoors in hot weather for long hours and driving and what not, it turned out that with the oring, it leaks through the wide cup slots.

 

[badkolo]

Yes BR and vjohn, i noticed 2 cups, thin and thicker plastic, the thin one can defor after long long us and the slits widen and cause leaks, this should be stopped with ceramics.

the wires inside the e2 where the juice goes gets hot but never glows.

BR i think you have a good idea as well, a one peace unit could work.

 

[VaporMadness]

Now we're getting to the point. If these two pieces were one, then we would have one single piece replacing the original two. If this single piece could be easily removed, then we could fill the E2 directly from a bottle.

I like this line of thought. I think a lot of people will prefer to use these with a mouthpiece (driptip) that protrudes above the can (at least I do). If that mouthpiece also served as the seal over the reservoir... that would be great. Pull the mouthpiece off, refill, plug it back on, and vape away.