E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion

[zoiDman]

Nice 'pics' bad and I agree w/ you yet again 'zoi', hits the nail on the head.

Yet again? That means more than once. Man, I'm on a Roll.

Maybe they need to be wick holes, not slots.. round, not square.

Have you seen the cup's wire holes? are those round holes?

Round or Square isn't going to help a wet, single strand wick from laying flat. And holes mean having to thread the wick thru the holes which makes for a more complex assembly process. Single strands are going to be difficult to get thru a hole.

I believe they use the "Bow Tie" to make stuffing the wick into the carto easier.

 

[v1John]

Single strands are going to be difficult to get thru a hole.

It's not that difficult, you need a funnel though, something like the plastic needle cover of a syringe, with a hole on the end.

The wick is instered into the little funnel which iself is placed in the hole.
Then it's slid in through the funnel and the hole.


(making a multi-loop coil and soldering it is 90 times more diffcult of a process)

 

[zoiDman]

It's not that difficult, you need a funnel though, something like the plastic needle cover of a syringe, with a hole on the end.

The wick is instered into the little funnel which iself is placed in the hole.
Then it's slid in through the funnel and the hole.


(making a multi-loop coil and soldering it is 90 times more diffcult of a process)

I was refering more to mass production verses doing a "One Up" regarding thread single strands thru a hole. Also consider that MiT has a manufacturing procedure now. If you make a change that requires changing the manufacturing process, you might need to retool your assembly machines which is expensive.

I'm sure the ECF members here can come up with the "Perfect" E2 carto. But can they be manufactured and sell them for 50 cents a piece?

 

[Guitrman1]

So I tried the PTB mod....yea it works great. So here is the thing I have some "silk" tea bags that look and feel identical to the PTB. That said they are not the same. PTB is completely unique so if you are thinking about it get the lipton PTB and no the premium silk.

2nd I never had a problem with leaking but I wanted to try it because I feel I am not getting the flavor out of these e2's that I should on probably 80% of my juice. The PTB so far has improved flavor across the board. I dont mind modding but I don't think I should have to. Someone who is smarter than I needs to convince Royal Smokers to take the e2 back to the design board and fundamentally change some of the design. As I see it-

Keep-
no filler
ceramic cup (aposed to plastic)
ohm options

Improve-
wicking
refilling system

all in all I still feel it is the best carto commercially available.

I miss anything?

 

[v1John]

no, you're right Guitrman, it's the best carto and/or the best atomizer currently publicly avaible

it has some minor glitches, but the factory seems to be agile and interested in resolving the glitches and making them to where the fda cannot easily oppose them (i hope) either
____________

zoid, they're still largely hand made until you provide a refence or evidence, and no they're not 50 cents either way, they may be $1 though, and that's still perfefect

In contrast, I was paying almost $2 for diller cartos and $8 for atomizers, neither of which were good.

 

[Scottbee]

no, you're right Guitrman, it's the best carto and/or the best atomizer currently publicly avaible

Well I personally wouldn't go anywhere near that far.... but, with modification, they are close to the best cartomizer that I have used. Stock.. meh. Displace my LR atomizers? Nope.

 

[zoiDman]

...
zoid, they're still largely hand made until you provide a refence or evidence, and no they're not 50 cents either way, they may be $1 though, and that's still perfefect

In contrast, I was paying almost $2 for diller cartos and $8 for atomizers, neither of which were good.

Hand Made? If you say so.

They cost you $1 a piece but there is a rule of business that if you sell something for the same price as what it cost for you to make it, you won't be in business too long.

100% make up for something like sounds like this sounds about right.

You have to make a little more on these cartos to feed the army of workers who make them by hand.

 

[Scottbee]

And holes mean having to thread the wick thru the holes which makes for a more complex assembly process. Single strands are going to be difficult to get thru a hole.

I don't know how you guys think these are made.. but my strong suspicion is that the nichrome is wrapped around the wick before being married to the coil pot. If so.. that pretty much precludes the use of round holes with no slits.

 

[v1John]

Hmmm.. maybe a rotating sleeve with a hole in it??

How well does that seal outdoors in hot days? I still like the unscrewable carto top as an option, meaning that it doesn't mean ALL cartos have to be like that, only that this option would also be available. This rotating sleeve is also a nice idea, exclusively for refilling.

Is it easy to drill a hole in the cartos? I may try that, and use a silicone carto cover as a sleve over the filler hole (for now). Is there a certain drill bit that I need?

 

[Scottbee]

How well does that seal outdoors in hot days?

Perfectly!

Is it easy to drill a hole in the cartos? I may try that, and use a silicone carto cover as a sleve over the filler hole (for now). Is there a certain drill bit that I need?

The cartomizer body is stainless, so you need a sharp bit and should do your drilling in a nice fluid motion to avoid work-hardening. I make my holes by starting off with a Dremel carbide burr to make the initial indentation, and then finish with a high-speed steel bit. Cobalt or carbide bits would work equally well if not better.

Since you are going to be drilling right over the ceramic coil pot.. and I doubt you have a mill.. you might want to consider just making the entire hole with the Dremel bit. That will help you avoid damaging the coil pot.

 

[v1John]

Scottbee what I pictured was the following sequence:

1- wrap coil around 2 or 3 2"sections of wick
2- Then, when you feed the coil wires thru the wire holes in the ceramic cup,
3- you feed the wick through the wick holes too.


_____________

thatnks for the drilling info, I'm off to gather more supplies

no, I will not drill near the ceramic, the filler hole is better near the threaded end of the carto, isn't it?

 

[zoiDman]

I don't know how you guys think these are made.. but my strong suspicion is that the nichrome is wrapped around the wick before being married to the coil pot. If so.. that pretty much precludes the use of round holes with no slits.

That's kinda how I see them made. Holes could be down. Anything can be done. But at what cost?

Also, holes would have to show a significant increase in usability to offset cost of assembly. A I don't think holes are going to work any better than a well designed slot and seal.

 

[badkolo]

I strongly feel they should concentrate on the slits and wick and overcome this minor issue which shouldnt be that hard to do. A new seal can also alleviate some issues as v1john knows by carving ti out and like zoid just mentioned.

 

[v1John]

;

Scott, thanks for the ideas and info.
I did try it with the Dremel bits after indenting a spot with the diamond ball. First I made a small to medium hole, and then the larger 1/8"

let's see how it works.

______________
_I syringed out the liquid currently in it, and it's ver very dark, it looks burnt..will have to clean and dry burn

...dry burn went well and maybe the easiest cleaning so far...
...the hole probably does have to go up near the cup, due to the seal not being airtight on the cup end, it may never ever be airtight either, you also have wire holes, so the hole next time will be at the top. At least I cleaned it really good and dry burned it and got it to vape once again.

 

[br5495]

I Just then measured the width of a ceramic slot. It is very close to .060". I also measured the width of a plastic slot. It is very close to .060". I only measured these two today, so others may be different. However, the ones that I left at my brother's house last Sunday measured the same thing.

This post is a test.

 

[Eighttrucktires]

After stalking you all for awhile now. I got a batch of XL 808 CR2's yesterday. They are wonderful as is. With the news yesterday, I decided to get another batch. Now I have some trouble. When I ordered the ones I have, there was not an ohm option. I vape at 3.7v. On the shorties it says to get the 2.8 - 3 ohm for 3.7v. The XL's only have an ohm option just below or, just above that.
Which way should I go?
TIA

 

[v1John]

After stalking you all for awhile now. I got a batch of XL 808 CR2's yesterday. They are wonderful as is. With the news yesterday, I decided to get another batch. Now I have some trouble. When I ordered the ones I have, there was not an ohm option. I vape at 3.7v. On the shorties it says to get the 2.8 - 3 ohm for 3.7v. The XL's only have an ohm option just below or, just above that.
Which way should I go?
TIA

If you got them from China recently, you probably mean CE2 and they're R3 (version.revision 3), right?
If you have enough to last a while, I would wait, how big is your batch, 5 or 30?. Version 4 is due very soon.
It also gives you time to get a measurement of the ones you have at the moment.

 

[badkolo]

above, go for the 3.0 to 3.2.

Br, ok but have you a rev 1 7 hole and 3 hole, rev 1 was to closed, but rev1 b 3 hole had the best slit

 

[Scottbee]

;

Scott, thanks for the ideas and info.
I did try it with the Dremel bits after indenting a spot with the diamond ball. First I made a small to medium hole, and then the larger 1/8"

let's see how it works.

Nice work!

I'm sure you've already done this.. but be sure to get all of the metal filings out of the interior before introducing your liquid.

 

[Eighttrucktires]

Above it is then. Get 'em while I can! Thanks!