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v1John

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Nice work!

I'm sure you've already done this.. but be sure to get all of the metal filings out of the interior before introducing your liquid.

I did, I had to wash it anyway, the carto looked like it had been used years and years.
The cleaning went well, I seldom mess with dry burns but it was so easy. When done, it left the wick very clean but silvery, yet did not wash it when dry burn completed (the silver did not budge with a toothpick, I hope it's ok to leave it like that). I don't want drastic and sudden temperature changes, as I don't know if the ceramic can crack. So I left the wick slightly shiny, reffiled, and got it to vape like new again...excellent flavor.

I do need to point out that the hole should be near the cup end, after all.
I got a minor leak or two (tho only during fill-up) due to the fact that the cup is not airtight--and never will be (there are wire holes in the cup and lots of things).

So anyone trying this, simply DO put the hole near the cup end. thanks Scott
 
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br5495

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above, go for the 3.0 to 3.2.

Br, ok but have you a rev 1 7 hole and 3 hole, rev 1 was to closed, but rev1 b 3 hole had the best slit

I fail to understand the reason for your questions, but no, I don't have a 7 hole version and do not want one. I have an old one with narrow slits. It works okay and is still in occasional use. It did not wick well with the original filler ring.

I have two others left with plastic cups. The slots at the bottom appear to be about .060", but I have not measured them. My wife would kill me if I tore hers apart for a measurement and I am saving Shorty just for old times sake.

All of my .060" or so slots work okay - plastic or ceramic. Makes no difference. What are the measurements of your plastic slots that work okay? What are the measurements of your ceramic slots that need to be narrowed?
 
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v1John

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in all of these different cups, are the gaps inside the wire holes all the same?

-there is also another thing I'm wondering-
-a wick or two that goes through a .051" hole may perform differently if the hole is made out of plastic or ceramic-
-if the plastic cannot retain as much heat as the ceramic, i wonder if you tend to have more gunk on the plastic hole (hole gunk) than the ceramic hole?
-the ceramic seems to retain heat, and this may be just what the liquid needs at the hole, as it approaches atomization.
 
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v1John

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Ok, so I finally made a hole on the upper end instead, near the bottom of the cup, rinsed it, and then put it back together.

Now with the new filler hole, I think I can safely make a lasting seal at the top of the cup, what are other things to use? I'm going to be trying teabags completely around the cup, but aren't there similar materials more abundantly available? Aren't there fabrics made with polyester or cotton or something that may possibly work just as well?

2daya1y.jpg
 
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br5495

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More about the slots in the cup. As deposits build up on the coil and wick, at least some of the open slot is filled up. Especially if the filler ring has never been disturbed. It one way, this may be a good thing, because the wick still has enough room to do its job after it has been in use for a while.

I am not suggesting that we should not disturb the filler ring. Some of us do our thing and that's all well and good. However, I have not used these things long enough in any configuration to make an intelligent decision about anything.

At least some of the XL's work well in their original configuration. Three have been successfully used in this house, and my wife began using a new one yesterday. Not that she needed to use a new one, but strictly because of testing. She hates to fill these things and is being a good sport about it. Except for capacity, she likes the old ones better. Can't say as I blame her.
 

BanjoMan

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lol, didn't even know something like that existed. my trips to walmart are kept as short as possible. still sore that we lost our better supermarkets due to walmart years ago. foodlion is the only one left standing.

Off topic but here. It's like traveling to an alternate universe or something...
 

BanjoMan

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Scott, thanks for the ideas and info.
I did try it with the Dremel bits after indenting a spot with the diamond ball. First I made a small to medium hole, and then the larger 1/8"

let's see how it works.

______________
_I syringed out the liquid currently in it, and it's ver very dark, it looks burnt..will have to clean and dry burn

...dry burn went well and maybe the easiest cleaning so far...
...the hole probably does have to go up near the cup, due to the seal not being airtight on the cup end, it may never ever be airtight either, you also have wire holes, so the hole next time will be at the top. At least I cleaned it really good and dry burned it and got it to vape once again.

Very nice work John. :)
 

BanjoMan

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with the inner fill ring in place it seems to stop the leek, why, not becuase its holding it center since the leak isnt coming form under the cup.

so that means the inner ring is covering the slits enough stopping leaking in some way??????

I think that's true on *most* of them (man this thread moves fast...)

My first XL 510 seemed to work fine with the filler ring undesturbed. No leaking and flavor was "ok". Nothing to write home about but perfectly useable.
 

BanjoMan

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Ultimately, using holes instead of slits would be the best solution imo. How hard is it to thread the wick through two holes in ceramic?

If an extra 2 seconds per carto is not feasible, maybe the slit can be shaped like this:

View attachment 18362

As long as the wick filled the hole fully with no gaps that might work. As long as the filler ring didn't constrict the wick in any way.
 

v1John

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thanks BanjoMan,
K2a43, that's also a great idea though it still has slits, I really don't think that it's too difficult to thread the wicks in the holes, I'ts hard to believe people are saying that it's too difficult.

All you need is part of a little plastic cone to use as a funnel, and thread the wick through it, while holding the cone at the hole:

luerplastic.jpg
 
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Lightgeoduck

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Scott, thanks for the ideas and info.
I did try it with the Dremel bits after indenting a spot with the diamond ball. First I made a small to medium hole, and then the larger 1/8"

let's see how it works.

______________
_I syringed out the liquid currently in it, and it's ver very dark, it looks burnt..will have to clean and dry burn

...dry burn went well and maybe the easiest cleaning so far...
...the hole probably does have to go up near the cup, due to the seal not being airtight on the cup end, it may never ever be airtight either, you also have wire holes, so the hole next time will be at the top. At least I cleaned it really good and dry burned it and got it to vape once again.
Tell you what, with all of your self quoting, photoshoping posts :) THIS one is the BEST .... nice work.... I will have to try this out for sure.. I mean I was already modding cartos for the GG AFS (courtesy of EMONTY) but never thought to mod for general use....

That's one of the condom ends you are using for covering the hole, right? just cutting the cap ? I am so going to try this out with other stuff.. at least until I can start making stuff like scottbee.

looking forward to see more of your work

thanks


LGD
 
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