E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
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You won't need to let it dry out too long. After you've rinsed it out, do a series of dry burns until you don't see any more water vapor coming off the coil and the coil glows bright orange, fill'er up with about 0.8mL of eliquid, replace the filler ring, and go for it. Just be sure that you don't overfill. The eliquid level should be just slightly below the top edge of the ceramic cup. You might want to put a couple or three drops of eliquid directly on the coil to get it wet, too. That helps alleviate the burnt "dry coil" taste <yuk!>
the search is still down??
to the poster witht he e2 issues, its a 2.5 ohm e2, it will have issues at 3.7 on its own sometimes.
after i dry burn, fluff the wick, or do the ptb method in my videos below, by adding ptb you can then use it at 3.7 without that dry taste.
or use a lower volt device.
to the poster witht he e2 issues, its a 2.5 ohm e2, it will have issues at 3.7 on its own sometimes.
after i dry burn, fluff the wick, or do the ptb method in my videos below, by adding ptb you can then use it at 3.7 without that dry taste.
or use a lower volt device.
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I filled up 5 random e2's v3 and 3 random v3.5. These are new UNMODDED e2's(after a dry burn which i always do regardless).(even if it has no primer i still dry burn it).
I then proceeded to use one at a time on the tek mod(nhaler.com, drew is the freaking man), Depending on which i used at the moment i would need to adjust the voltage and i could replicate the bad taste by going way to high.
but my point is on each an every one i was able to tune the voltage on each one and get it to work perfectly and wick properly by getting the sweet spot.
most of the 510xl's worked at the same volt and one needed a higher voltage, the 808's also varied, some worked perfectly at the same volt that the 510's did, while others needed to be bumped up more to find its sweet spot.
Im pretty positive the e2's have a sweet spot that removes bad tastes and wicking issues.
i dont know the exact voltage since im going by a guide drew gave me so I dont wanna just guess but im willing to check if someone shows me how.
I truly have never been happier vaping. They all work incredibly well at the proper volt, and the vape is just right, not to hot, not cool, just right and huge vapor each and every time.
I'll have to make a video for the tekkmod and e2. I know its pricey and a bit big but im a battery ..... so i love it and i cant reccomend it enough, variable devices are the way to go period.
I then proceeded to use one at a time on the tek mod(nhaler.com, drew is the freaking man), Depending on which i used at the moment i would need to adjust the voltage and i could replicate the bad taste by going way to high.
but my point is on each an every one i was able to tune the voltage on each one and get it to work perfectly and wick properly by getting the sweet spot.
most of the 510xl's worked at the same volt and one needed a higher voltage, the 808's also varied, some worked perfectly at the same volt that the 510's did, while others needed to be bumped up more to find its sweet spot.
Im pretty positive the e2's have a sweet spot that removes bad tastes and wicking issues.
i dont know the exact voltage since im going by a guide drew gave me so I dont wanna just guess but im willing to check if someone shows me how.
I truly have never been happier vaping. They all work incredibly well at the proper volt, and the vape is just right, not to hot, not cool, just right and huge vapor each and every time.
I'll have to make a video for the tekkmod and e2. I know its pricey and a bit big but im a battery ..... so i love it and i cant reccomend it enough, variable devices are the way to go period.
Thanks for the M401 info Turbo and BanjoMan. Weird thing is, I'm getting a decent amount of vapour out of my E2 and flavours too... but almost zero TH. It does have that slightly raspy hot draw though along with the frustrating sensation of sucking on a straw. I haven't got any variable volt kit - so I might try the suggestion of 2 regular batteries at 3v.
Wouldn't it be great if someone could write a piece of software where you could assign a PC USB port and use on on-screen slider to variate the voltage going to it?
Wouldn't it be great if someone could write a piece of software where you could assign a PC USB port and use on on-screen slider to variate the voltage going to it?
not possible Control USB Voltage. - bit-tech.net Forums
but a resistor can be made for a usb device.
slopes be careful with battteries, I know I mentioned them, but using them an extended period of days and weeks and months... please get protected batteries,
also it's important to know what kind they are, I think the kind in ecigs is lithium ion, not NiCads, or others, and there are so so many kinds, but lithium ion is what ecigs use, if I remember correctly
also it's important to know what kind they are, I think the kind in ecigs is lithium ion, not NiCads, or others, and there are so so many kinds, but lithium ion is what ecigs use, if I remember correctly
im losing my mind here tryin gto figure out how im gonna make this design i made, im certain this is the winner., the cup and coil needs to be at the bottom like the new joye cartomizer
that how most people stand the cart and everyone holds a real cig or ecig in a slant so obviously the best place for the coil is at the bottom and not the top, this way juice flows down , that's gravity for you, the e2 is trying to defy gravity through a wick and while its feasable and works its still very dependent on the wick and with all honesty could be reversed with the cup being on the bottom.
there is a way to reverse the e2 and use a fraction of the wick, this would also remove the wires from the tank and it would give more room and it also makes it simpler to fill.
Where the hell is br when you need him and why arent you helping me V1john
that how most people stand the cart and everyone holds a real cig or ecig in a slant so obviously the best place for the coil is at the bottom and not the top, this way juice flows down , that's gravity for you, the e2 is trying to defy gravity through a wick and while its feasable and works its still very dependent on the wick and with all honesty could be reversed with the cup being on the bottom.
there is a way to reverse the e2 and use a fraction of the wick, this would also remove the wires from the tank and it would give more room and it also makes it simpler to fill.
Where the hell is br when you need him and why arent you helping me V1john
Bad, think of ecigs as flat horizontal, a few at ecf might not, but for the masses, a horizontal ecig would work
...just have to use the right wick like ptb outside of the cup, or watch how the wick is guided into the cup, they don't leave the wick plenty of wiggle room where it enters the cup, causing a sudden and sharp turn there too, because the carto they use is not a mm. wider
...just have to use the right wick like ptb outside of the cup, or watch how the wick is guided into the cup, they don't leave the wick plenty of wiggle room where it enters the cup, causing a sudden and sharp turn there too, because the carto they use is not a mm. wider
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ecigs are never rasied above the mouth towards the sky , i never seen anyone use it like that.
and there should be no reason for the wick to be on the side of the cup.
im going to glue some stuff together and make a moc prototype.
the good thing about the e2 cup design is that the coil is exposed for cleaning.
and there should be no reason for the wick to be on the side of the cup.
im going to glue some stuff together and make a moc prototype.
the good thing about the e2 cup design is that the coil is exposed for cleaning.
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HEHE my wife does when she occasionally uses her e-cig, looks like she is drinking a coke -LOL, I keep telling her that she doesn't have to do that but hey, at least she tries to use it off and on.
All the best,
Wing.
well the clear carto a couple posts up uses less wick, and cartos are laid flat, when it's flat the liquid soaks the wick disc.
I think it's actually a pain to have to stand them up vertically, and I'm only having to do this (stand them up) until the R3.5 and R4 stops the leakage. They don't stay upright very long either, they're constantly falling and tiping over, right now I have 2 standing 3 that fell sideways, and one on my ecig which is flat on the desk when I set it down.
prolly as long as it works and wicks flat horizontal without leakage it'll be ok.
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If you go in a smoker's break room and give them an ecig to try, it will need to work in the flat horizontal position, since mouths are sideways (as opposed to nostrils, which point down)
but what is your design, Bad? any pics before you glue them?
I think it's actually a pain to have to stand them up vertically, and I'm only having to do this (stand them up) until the R3.5 and R4 stops the leakage. They don't stay upright very long either, they're constantly falling and tiping over, right now I have 2 standing 3 that fell sideways, and one on my ecig which is flat on the desk when I set it down.
prolly as long as it works and wicks flat horizontal without leakage it'll be ok.
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If you go in a smoker's break room and give them an ecig to try, it will need to work in the flat horizontal position, since mouths are sideways (as opposed to nostrils, which point down)
but what is your design, Bad? any pics before you glue them?
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..And how would I cut my ecig battery so I can make my switches?
Am I doing it right? I bought a pk. of the cut-off wheels for the Dremel, and started cutting where you see the mark in the picture. I didn't think the mark would be that wide though, should the wheel be held at an angle or at 90 degrees?
Am I doing it right? I bought a pk. of the cut-off wheels for the Dremel, and started cutting where you see the mark in the picture. I didn't think the mark would be that wide though, should the wheel be held at an angle or at 90 degrees?
Actually, a small atmel micro controller could be used to take input and output a variable voltage regulator. It would then be easy to write a small program with a slider to signal the controller through the USB data connection.
..And how would I cut my ecig battery so I can make my switches?
Am I doing it right? I bought a pk. of the cut-off wheels for the Dremel, and started cutting where you see the mark in the picture. I didn't think the mark would be that wide though, should the wheel be held at an angle or at 90 degrees?
The batteries are very thin walled. I would recommend using a pipe cutter instead of a cutoff wheel for this. You'd be less likely to nick the battery.
I wouldn't touch the subject that you guys are on right now with a 10 foot galvanized pipe, LOL.
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I would so kidnap you right now and have you tied in a basement perfecting atomizers. you'll be fed, dont worry.
The nearest thing to perfection that I have seen so far is certain ones of the modified E2's with a plastic cup, but I doubt if anyone in the world would agree with that.
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