Thank you, @Patcrack! Have you run the update? I am interested in knowing whether bumping max wattage to 120 watts is the only change in the firmware.
Eleaf iStick 100w TC
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Thank you, @Patcrack! Have you run the update? I am interested in knowing whether bumping max wattage to 120 watts is the only change in the firmware.
Because there seem to be 2 versions of firmware already released for this device, I asked my friend and ECF Resident Smart Dude @100%VG what he thought. I am interested in knowing whether the "low battery" indicator at around 3.6v is the first version or if this is something that was added after I got my mod as a safety measure. He wrote me back a very nice and very detailed explanation of battery life and mod performance and I love how he explains things so I am posting what he has to say about this:
In the case of our batteries, it doesn't really matter which Technology type they are (ICR, IMR, INR, NCM, LiPo, High Amps, High mAh), or if they were selected for Max Performance or Max Vape Time. They all need to be treated with great respect. They all need to be understood, so that for each battery technology type and its associated ratings that are used, those batteries can be charged, discharged, stored, etc., to know WHY one battery should be used over another. But also to gain the best Balance of charge, discharge, storage, etc., to make the Device and Battery perform their best while supplying the best Longevity of both.
In general, for the 18650 battery this means:
1.).. 4.1V Maximum 18xxx Charge Voltage. This is very hard to find in a Charger today!
....●.. Reduces Charge Capacity (mAh) and therefore Vape Time.
..●.. For the most part, the 0.1V will not be missed, but it will greatly increase your
...... battery Charge Cycles (overall Life).
2.).. 3.6V Minimum 18xxx Discharge Voltage.
...●.. Reduces Vape Time.
..●.. 3.2V should be the absolute minimum ever! However, a 3.6V Minimum discharge will
...... greatly increase Charge Cycles (overall Life).
3.).. Only use Genuine batteries from LG, Panasonic, Samsung, or Sanyo (alphabetical order), or
...... rewrap brands only if you truly know what that rewrapped battery's Specs really are. This is so
...... that you can know how to do the following...
4.).. Charge at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life, rather than Minimizing battery charge time.
...... (a 2 Amp Charge can decrease the Charge Cycles of some battery types/capacities)
...●.. May increase charge time.
●.. If so, it is better this way. The batteries usually aren't needed before the charge is
. . .completed.
5.).. Vape at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life.
..... (don't vape at an Amperage Draw higher than the battery's safe spec limit)
...●.. May reduce Vapor.
●.. If you need huge, dense clouds, then get a dual or triple 18650 Regulated Mod.
We want Performance, but we want it Cheap. So Mods are made to give Instant Gratification, in the form of 4.2V-Charged batteries, with some of them discharged down to 2.8V (which is questionably safe) for max performance a longer vape times... at the expense of battery life, and sometimes even battery safety.
I don't usually run my batteries all the way down on any of my mods but sometimes I fail and it happens anyway. As long as I am not in danger of blowing myself (or my mod) up I am happy with not having to double-press the fire button long before the batteries need to be recharged, and if it is actually done this way as a safety feature I am very glad it's just a matter of double-pressing the fire button to be able to vape instead of having the wattage dive down to an unusable level while I am vaping as is what happens on one of my devices. On that one I have to stop vaping at a little less than half power which necessitates frequent charging and I also have to reset the wattage before I can vape again.
In the case of our batteries, it doesn't really matter which Technology type they are (ICR, IMR, INR, NCM, LiPo, High Amps, High mAh), or if they were selected for Max Performance or Max Vape Time. They all need to be treated with great respect. They all need to be understood, so that for each battery technology type and its associated ratings that are used, those batteries can be charged, discharged, stored, etc., to know WHY one battery should be used over another. But also to gain the best Balance of charge, discharge, storage, etc., to make the Device and Battery perform their best while supplying the best Longevity of both.
In general, for the 18650 battery this means:
1.).. 4.1V Maximum 18xxx Charge Voltage. This is very hard to find in a Charger today!
....●.. Reduces Charge Capacity (mAh) and therefore Vape Time.
..●.. For the most part, the 0.1V will not be missed, but it will greatly increase your
...... battery Charge Cycles (overall Life).
2.).. 3.6V Minimum 18xxx Discharge Voltage.
...●.. Reduces Vape Time.
..●.. 3.2V should be the absolute minimum ever! However, a 3.6V Minimum discharge will
...... greatly increase Charge Cycles (overall Life).
3.).. Only use Genuine batteries from LG, Panasonic, Samsung, or Sanyo (alphabetical order), or
...... rewrap brands only if you truly know what that rewrapped battery's Specs really are. This is so
...... that you can know how to do the following...
4.).. Charge at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life, rather than Minimizing battery charge time.
...... (a 2 Amp Charge can decrease the Charge Cycles of some battery types/capacities)
...●.. May increase charge time.
●.. If so, it is better this way. The batteries usually aren't needed before the charge is
. . .completed.
5.).. Vape at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life.
..... (don't vape at an Amperage Draw higher than the battery's safe spec limit)
...●.. May reduce Vapor.
●.. If you need huge, dense clouds, then get a dual or triple 18650 Regulated Mod.
We want Performance, but we want it Cheap. So Mods are made to give Instant Gratification, in the form of 4.2V-Charged batteries, with some of them discharged down to 2.8V (which is questionably safe) for max performance a longer vape times... at the expense of battery life, and sometimes even battery safety.
I don't usually run my batteries all the way down on any of my mods but sometimes I fail and it happens anyway. As long as I am not in danger of blowing myself (or my mod) up I am happy with not having to double-press the fire button long before the batteries need to be recharged, and if it is actually done this way as a safety feature I am very glad it's just a matter of double-pressing the fire button to be able to vape instead of having the wattage dive down to an unusable level while I am vaping as is what happens on one of my devices. On that one I have to stop vaping at a little less than half power which necessitates frequent charging and I also have to reset the wattage before I can vape again.
Hey Cool,
If you Quote what I wrote you, paste that here, and then remove the Quote and End Quote parts at the beginning and end, it would look the way it is intended to look.
Never mind. Here it is for ya.
In the case of our batteries, it doesn't really matter which Technology type they are (ICR, IMR, INR, NCM, LiPo, High Amps, High mAh), or if they were selected for Max Performance or Max Vape Time. They all need to be treated with great respect. They all need to be understood, so that for each battery technology type and its associated ratings that are used, those batteries can be charged, discharged, stored, etc., to know WHY one battery should be used over another. But also to gain the best Balance of charge, discharge, storage, etc., to make the Device and Battery perform their best while supplying the best Longevity of both.
In general, for the 18650 battery this means:
.
If you Quote what I wrote you, paste that here, and then remove the Quote and End Quote parts at the beginning and end, it would look the way it is intended to look.
Never mind. Here it is for ya.
In the case of our batteries, it doesn't really matter which Technology type they are (ICR, IMR, INR, NCM, LiPo, High Amps, High mAh), or if they were selected for Max Performance or Max Vape Time. They all need to be treated with great respect. They all need to be understood, so that for each battery technology type and its associated ratings that are used, those batteries can be charged, discharged, stored, etc., to know WHY one battery should be used over another. But also to gain the best Balance of charge, discharge, storage, etc., to make the Device and Battery perform their best while supplying the best Longevity of both.
In general, for the 18650 battery this means:
1.).. 4.1V Maximum 18xxx Charge Voltage. This is very hard to find in a Charger today!
...... rewrap brands only if you truly know what that rewrapped battery's Specs really are. This is so
...... that you can know how to do the following...
4.).. Charge at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life, rather than Minimizing battery charge time.
...... (a 2 Amp Charge can decrease the Charge Cycles of some battery types/capacities)
..... (don't vape at an Amperage Draw higher than the battery's safe spec limit)
We want Performance, but we want it Cheap. So Mods are made to give Instant Gratification, in the form of 4.2V-Charged batteries, with some of them discharged down to 2.8V (which is questionably safe) for max performance a longer vape times... at the expense of battery life, and sometimes even battery safety. If you don't know that there are better ways to do things, they will sell you what is best for them... increased sales due to internal/permanent, non-removable, non-18650 batteries, more battery sales due to improperly set chargers and mods, and even safety issues from discharging too low. But if it blows up because you used an unsafe battery under high discharge conditions, in a cheap mod, well, whatcha gonna do? Ya get whatcha pay for.....●.. Reduces Charge Capacity (mAh) and therefore Vape Time.
2.).. 3.6V Minimum 18xxx Discharge Voltage...●.. For the most part, the 0.1V will not be missed, but it will greatly increase your
...... battery Charge Cycles (overall Life).
...... battery Charge Cycles (overall Life).
...●.. Reduces Vape Time.
3.).. Only use Genuine batteries from LG, Panasonic, Samsung, or Sanyo (alphabetical order), or..●.. 3.2V should be the absolute minimum ever! However, a 3.6V Minimum discharge will
...... greatly increase Charge Cycles (overall Life).
...... greatly increase Charge Cycles (overall Life).
...... rewrap brands only if you truly know what that rewrapped battery's Specs really are. This is so
...... that you can know how to do the following...
4.).. Charge at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life, rather than Minimizing battery charge time.
...... (a 2 Amp Charge can decrease the Charge Cycles of some battery types/capacities)
...●.. May increase charge time.
5.).. Vape at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life.●.. If so, it is better this way. The batteries usually aren't needed before the charge is
. . .completed.
. . .completed.
..... (don't vape at an Amperage Draw higher than the battery's safe spec limit)
...●.. May reduce Vapor.
●.. If you need huge, dense clouds, then get a dual or triple 18650 Regulated Mod.
.
Last edited:
I went looking for a way to check the Firmware Version, and found this...
Download the file below to upgrade your iStick TC100W from V1.00 version to V1.10 version. Firmware V1.10 allows maximum output power of 120W.
. . 
So if yours is limited to 100W Max, you'll have V1.00 of the Firmware.
The differences may be in having Genuine and Clone batteries. I forgot to mention that part before.
Cool GIF...
My iStick TC60W doesn't work this way, though I don't know if it is Firmware Upgradeable, but with the Cuboid turned Off, pressing the Fire Button 20 times very quickly will display the Firmware Version. You could try it.
However, with the TC60W turned Off, pressing the Fire and Down buttons together for 5 seconds will display the single 18650's charge level in Volts.
Download the file below to upgrade your iStick TC100W from V1.00 version to V1.10 version. Firmware V1.10 allows maximum output power of 120W.
. . So if yours is limited to 100W Max, you'll have V1.00 of the Firmware.
The differences may be in having Genuine and Clone batteries. I forgot to mention that part before.
Cool GIF...
My iStick TC60W doesn't work this way, though I don't know if it is Firmware Upgradeable, but with the Cuboid turned Off, pressing the Fire Button 20 times very quickly will display the Firmware Version. You could try it.
However, with the TC60W turned Off, pressing the Fire and Down buttons together for 5 seconds will display the single 18650's charge level in Volts.
woohoo!! another love for the mac owners. i really appreciate them.
(still waiting for my white TC100W)
Sent while vaping using Tapatalk
(still waiting for my white TC100W)
Sent while vaping using Tapatalk
Hey Cool,
If you Quote what I wrote you, paste that here, and then remove the Quote and End Quote parts at the beginning and end, it would look the way it is intended to look.
Never mind. Here it is for ya.
In the case of our batteries, it doesn't really matter which Technology type they are (ICR, IMR, INR, NCM, LiPo, High Amps, High mAh), or if they were selected for Max Performance or Max Vape Time. They all need to be treated with great respect. They all need to be understood, so that for each battery technology type and its associated ratings that are used, those batteries can be charged, discharged, stored, etc., to know WHY one battery should be used over another. But also to gain the best Balance of charge, discharge, storage, etc., to make the Device and Battery perform their best while supplying the best Longevity of both.
In general, for the 18650 battery this means:
1.).. 4.1V Maximum 18xxx Charge Voltage. This is very hard to find in a Charger today!We want Performance, but we want it Cheap. So Mods are made to give Instant Gratification, in the form of 4.2V-Charged batteries, with some of them discharged down to 2.8V (which is questionably safe) for max performance a longer vape times... at the expense of battery life, and sometimes even battery safety. If you don't know that there are better ways to do things, they will sell you what is best for them... increased sales due to internal/permanent, non-removable, non-18650 batteries, more battery sales due to improperly set chargers and mods, and even safety issues from discharging too low. But if it blows up because you used an unsafe battery under high discharge conditions, in a cheap mod, well, whatcha gonna do? Ya get whatcha pay for.
....●.. Reduces Charge Capacity (mAh) and therefore Vape Time.2.).. 3.6V Minimum 18xxx Discharge Voltage.
..●.. For the most part, the 0.1V will not be missed, but it will greatly increase your
...... battery Charge Cycles (overall Life).
...●.. Reduces Vape Time.3.).. Only use Genuine batteries from LG, Panasonic, Samsung, or Sanyo (alphabetical order), or
..●.. 3.2V should be the absolute minimum ever! However, a 3.6V Minimum discharge will
...... greatly increase Charge Cycles (overall Life).
...... rewrap brands only if you truly know what that rewrapped battery's Specs really are. This is so
...... that you can know how to do the following...
4.).. Charge at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life, rather than Minimizing battery charge time.
...... (a 2 Amp Charge can decrease the Charge Cycles of some battery types/capacities)
...●.. May increase charge time.5.).. Vape at an Amperage that Optimizes battery life.
●.. If so, it is better this way. The batteries usually aren't needed before the charge is
. . .completed.
..... (don't vape at an Amperage Draw higher than the battery's safe spec limit)
...●.. May reduce Vapor.
●.. If you need huge, dense clouds, then get a dual or triple 18650 Regulated Mod.
.
Ha! Thanks, VG! I guess I only grabbed part of the message!
I went looking for a way to check the Firmware Version, and found this...
Download the file below to upgrade your iStick TC100W from V1.00 version to V1.10 version. Firmware V1.10 allows maximum output power of 120W.
So if yours is limited to 100W Max, you'll have V1.00 of the Firmware.
The differences may be in having Genuine and Clone batteries. I forgot to mention that part before.
Cool GIF...
My iStick TC60W doesn't work this way, though I don't know if it is Firmware Upgradeable, but with the Cuboid turned Off, pressing the Fire Button 20 times very quickly will display the Firmware Version. You could try it.
However, with the TC60W turned Off, pressing the Fire and Down buttons together for 5 seconds will display the single 18650's charge level in Volts.
Yes it does! I just tried it and it says "Version 1.00" which is know is right because I am limited to 100w.
Ahhhh, I hope you get it this week! I am dying to see the hand check!!
fyi, i ended up paid about (approx) USD45 [emoji29] (plus s&h, insurance, customs, etc) but heck im in love with this mod at 1st sight [emoji7] package scheduled to be delivered today.
Sent while vaping using Tapatalk
Whats changed can you tell? Dont have mine yet its on a slow boat from china. Glad to hear about the mac support for updates.Just did the update to all 3 of mine. That was easy
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Only thing I noticed is the device now fires at 120 watts. I can still fire the mod with 1 18650 past 75 watts
Thanks[emoji106]Only thing I noticed is the device now fires at 120 watts. I can still fire the mod with 1 18650 past 75 watts
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Ordered from FT at the beginning of CNY break. Shipped today. Wish I'd ordered two at that price, because I think I'll convert the first one to a squonker.
I had the EXACT same thought when I read you could use one battery lol. would be super easy to convert. I may pick up another one down the road when new products come out and prices plummet.
Could you tell if it saved v1.00 so you could go back, if you ever wanted to? Could you tell if there were any other changes, other than bumping up to 120W?Just did the update to all 3 of mine. That was easy
Just curious.
Oops. Asked and answered. But did you use it before the Upgrade? Maybe the battery charge cutoff is better now (if you had that problem)? Personally, I would be happy with a 3.6V Cutoff.
.
Oh my! I bet the insurance and customs added a lot onto that price tag.
I think it will be very worth it for you, though. Remember to post a picture for me! I am dying to see the white one!!
No changes to the TC menu? I will go ahead and do the update now. I don't necessarily need the extra 20 watts but I am really hoping the next update will change my mod from gray to pink, so I want to be prepared.Only thing I noticed is the device now fires at 120 watts. I can still fire the mod with 1 18650 past 75 watts
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