Thanks Sonic.
In a Fast Moving thread like this, if you take a Day Off, you come back and Everything is "Old News".
Eleaf Istick
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Thanks Sonic.
In a Fast Moving thread like this, if you take a Day Off, you come back and Everything is "Old News".
So a mod calibrated in unicorn toots would be a huge fail, there would be no way to determine how many unicorn toots would suit your topper, or juice flavor? The wave form of the output has much more effect on the coil temp than the units used, a square wave, vs a saw-tooth or triangle waveform would be a big difference.
The original "3.4 volt" Joyetech 650 mah batteries used a sawtoot waveform, and were reported to hit as hard as a 3.7 volt Rive when they were introduced as a clone.
Thanks Pokemom. One quick question on your experience. What ratio juice do you use , or does that seem to matter? I am discouraged that even the 2.5 ohm single coils aren't working for you. That would really limit my viable uses for this device.
I have a Protank mini 3 and Kanger Glass which take the dual coils and several EVOD tanks which take the single coils. I cannot use the 1.5Ω dual coils without getting burnt taste. The 1.8Ω dual coils actually test out to 2.0Ω and work fine for me with 70/30 juice. On the single coils I moved from 1.8Ω to 2.2Ω coils and they are working great with no burnt taste. I have also used 60/40 juice with no problems in one of my standard EVOD tanks.
There are several factors to whether or not it will work well such as juice ratio, tank used and so on. I have been very satisfied with my setup running the istick on 4 to 6 Watts depending on the tank and coil. I try to keep it around 3.0 to 3.1 Volts. It is working well for me with no more burnt juice or coils in my setup!
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Happy to announce I finally got off the fence and just placed an order with VapeNW. Good Lord. I spent more time agonizing over this decision than I did with my last vehicle purchase... which was a much larger ticket item I assure you. I'll be making payments on the car for at least 4 years.
Sometimes I wonder what in the heck is wrong with me
Guess I treat my nicotine addiction with a lot more concern that what is hurling me down the interstate at 75 mph. But, I did get to test drive the car....hmm.
Sometimes I wonder what in the heck is wrong with me
Guess I treat my nicotine addiction with a lot more concern that what is hurling me down the interstate at 75 mph. But, I did get to test drive the car....hmm.I expect the activity in this thread to die down now that we have some tangible numbers to go by. That's what I was really looking for.
I usually fire my single coils at 3.8 volts, so 4.0 volts isn't too bad. If anything, it lightens up my pocket because I always carry 2 batteries.
Obviously, the 4-5 great benefits are far outweighing the 1 overwhelming negative of the product. That's why I haven't read one person say they are returning their's.
When and if they fix the voltage issue and possibly add an adjustable center pin, this will be the perfect mod, and probably knock egos out as being the industry standard. Egos will always have their place though, as it's a cig-alike form factor for noobies.
Very, very close to being a "game changer."
I usually fire my single coils at 3.8 volts, so 4.0 volts isn't too bad. If anything, it lightens up my pocket because I always carry 2 batteries.
Obviously, the 4-5 great benefits are far outweighing the 1 overwhelming negative of the product. That's why I haven't read one person say they are returning their's.
When and if they fix the voltage issue and possibly add an adjustable center pin, this will be the perfect mod, and probably knock egos out as being the industry standard. Egos will always have their place though, as it's a cig-alike form factor for noobies.
Very, very close to being a "game changer."
I haven't had a problem until today. I use only Kanger PT 2 . I rebuild all my coils and they come in around 1.7 to 2.2 ohms. Have had No burnt taste at 3.0 volts.
I suspect the Vrms value of the Joyetech batteries to which you refer were higher than 3.4 volt.
You can believe what you want, but Vrms values more accurately approximates DC voltage levels. I wanted a mod that could supply 3.7 volts, and I didn't get it in the iStick. Did I make do? Yep.
Saw this earlier today Beyond Vape Solara DNA 30 [bv-sol-dna-30] - $175.00 : Beyond Vape, Electronic Cigarettes, Premium Vaporizers, Premium Vaping Products
Similar in shape.
Similar in shape.
OK... Got a Chance to Watch Phil's Review. Didn't see much that I Didn't Expect or Anything that hadn't been Deduced here in this Thread Already.
But I did see 2 Things that I Really Liked.
The First being that Phil Talked about Advocacy and People getting Active/Informed at an event he Recently went to.
The Second was his Reply to Someone who is Currently using an iStick and Asked him to Review it and tell them if it was
Good Or Not.
4:10 in Vid.
"
Q. Are you Using it?
A. Yes
Q. Are you Happy?
A. Yes
Q. Are you Smoking?
A. No
Then there is Nothing Wrong with it."
These 3 Question Should be the Ultimate Benchmark to whether or not a APV is Good for an Individual.
---
What I did think was Funny about the Video was at 17:20. That was when Phil tries to Remove the Guts of the iStick by Cutting the Connector Wires and then Pushing the Battery and Board out the Bottom End. Cutting his Fingers and Breaking the Button Actuators on the Board in the Process.
Phil, Phil, Phil. You haven't been Reading my Warning on how to take an iStick Apart.
Remove the Smoked Strip over the Buttons. Remove the Buttons. Then push the Battery/Board out the Top End. And La Vola. You know have an Intact iStick Guts.
LOL
But I did see 2 Things that I Really Liked.
The First being that Phil Talked about Advocacy and People getting Active/Informed at an event he Recently went to.
The Second was his Reply to Someone who is Currently using an iStick and Asked him to Review it and tell them if it was
Good Or Not.
4:10 in Vid.
"
Q. Are you Using it?
A. Yes
Q. Are you Happy?
A. Yes
Q. Are you Smoking?
A. No
Then there is Nothing Wrong with it."
These 3 Question Should be the Ultimate Benchmark to whether or not a APV is Good for an Individual.
---
What I did think was Funny about the Video was at 17:20. That was when Phil tries to Remove the Guts of the iStick by Cutting the Connector Wires and then Pushing the Battery and Board out the Bottom End. Cutting his Fingers and Breaking the Button Actuators on the Board in the Process.
Phil, Phil, Phil. You haven't been Reading my Warning on how to take an iStick Apart.
Remove the Smoked Strip over the Buttons. Remove the Buttons. Then push the Battery/Board out the Top End. And La Vola. You know have an Intact iStick Guts.
LOL
You're right. It's all academic. But what you're missing is the rest of the PV world "speaks" RMS and now comes the lone iStick using a different calibration. It would just make more sense if every topper fired the same on every mod at the same settings.
Wait until you get a load of the DNA 40: EVERYTHING up to this point will be obsolete after you get used to that technology.
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Forget statistics, RMS, averages, and the unicorn toots (whatever they are, BTW, remember, I'm not a native English speaker...).
If an electronic appliance says it is giving 10 watts of output, I can expect something in the range of 8,5 to 11,5 W as actual output. And that being frankly open-minded.
But if it is not, and it is going adrift even in the smaller ranges, and giving me 40 % to 90 % more...... and burning thing in the middle....
I do not know you guys, but here we've got stringent regulations against that kind of failures. Of course, I'll be the last to point out iSmoka to anyone about this, but they should learn the lesson, and quickly, because it is about time and a V2 with the same failure won't be tolerated.
And for the record, I'm the guy who seriously considered returning the iStick. Only the lack of proper wholeseller channels for the company which sold it to me, and trying to avoid a case of wrong culprits, led me away of that decision. In the meantime, I'm seriously considering to sell it, so if anyone is getting desperate about it and the empty shelves thing...... it's black, it has got the eLeaf adaptor, it has been charged from empty four times so far, it's been used with an AFC ring adaptor to protect the 510..... and it is located inside the EU...... guess your numbers at about half the purchasing price....
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Agreeing with both of your points. Now, to help folks adjust, can someone make a table that translates the equivalents of Avg vs RMS so people can dial in their favorite settings they know from the usual RMS mods?
For starters, just back down about one volt when on the iStick. The higher you go the less you notice the variance. i.e., if you already vape in the higher wattage realm just adjust to suit - it will vape just the same as any other device.
Seriously. Put a piece of tape on the display, keep tasting until it hits just right then leave it alone.
The iStick reminds me of my early flying days. Too much reliance on instrumentation makes for a less than enjoyable flight at times.
Someone did that an few zillion posts ago......
It was calculated supposing, as in that moment it seemed so, that the peak voltage of the iStick was 5,8 V. It turns out that it is more in between 5,65 through 5,78, and it might change a bit depending on the load and wattages requested, but, anyway, I've updated my maths with those new numbers (i.e., now at 5,73 V as 'mean peak voltage') and....
...Oh! Did I tell you I was going to get 'full ahead academic flank mode on'?......
O.K., let's do it simple. If you plot requested voltage (i.e. average for the iStick) and actual voltage (i.e. RMS, as any other modern APV 'talks') you'll find something like this:
And if you plot, for several resistences, power shown on the display (being that a result of its internal calculations for a requested voltage in VV mode, or an user's setting in VW mode) versus actual power output:
I hope it may help someone lost, but the best recommendation still is to go up from 3,0 V and in that way just find the 'sweet spot'.
Nobody has actually adressed the 'more than 20 watts' issue. That's what you'll find doing the maths (near 25 W at 1,0 Ω), but I wonder if there is some limitation mechanism to avoid that kind of overrated power, like throwing out the PWM pulse with less peak voltage. It seems that for high wattages the actual peak voltage is less than 5,7 V, as a result of some instability of the squared waveform. PBusardo did shown a hint of it, but in his video there is not enough time to get a full feeling about that. Anyway, being 20 o 20-something, near the maximum voltage the PWM-gate is less notorious.....
i believe Phil did that in his video on the graphs. 2.1 ohms was a full volt difference. If you go up higher in voltage I think it was closer to .7 volts difference. Once it reaches it's full 5.5 volts, it's pretty accurate. Check the video out again.
Sorry, my internet is kinda choppy at work. But it looked like.....
3.0 volts = 4.0 volts
4.0 volts = ~4.7 volts
5.0 volts = ~5.2 volts
5.5 volts = ~5.6 volts
Based on Pbusardo's chart, but the guy above me has a chart of what it should be in conversion.
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