Eleaf Istick

[redddog]

I know there is a vast world of knowledge and expertise out there pertaining to electrical engineering and implementaion. I'll never know half of what many of you will forget about the topic.

So to an utter layman, if you turn it down 1 watt lower than your other things, you're fine?

 

[DaveOno]

So if I have two mech mods, same model and one hits harder it's a "huge failure"?

Who's talking about mech mods? But to answer your question, same model and one hits harder, yes, one is a failure.

RMS is a simple mathematical formula designed to be able to compare apples and oranges for an electrical engineer.
It is no more valid as a vaping measurement than calibrations in unicorn toots.

RMS is a way to quantify power, to compare the power output of 2 devices not just for engineers. It is the current standard. It has been the standard for guitar amps for over 40 years.
Are cubits still valid?

If a version 2 doesn't hit as hard, and have possibly a higher wattage capability, it would be a huge failure, regardless of calibration.

And I'll disagree. Version 2 shouldn't hit as hard, it could have higher wattage or capacity or both, regardless, if it calculates to the standard it would be a success.

My point was for a company to repeat a flaw, that would be a failure.

 

[Carl Brutananadilewski]

Anyone know when V2 will be out?

 

[pcrdude]

I know there is a vast world of knowledge and expertise out there pertaining to electrical engineering and implementaion. I'll never know half of what many of you will forget about the topic.

So to an utter layman, if you turn it down 1 watt lower than your other things, you're fine?

According to Phil, when you set the istick to 3 volts, it actually puts out over 4 volts (compared to other mods or batteries). If your current setup is ataround 4 volts or higher, you'll be fine.

If you vape at 3.7 volts (like regular (non VV) eGo style batteries), you run the risk of not being able to lower the voltage enough.

 

[zoiDman]

Someone did that an few zillion posts ago......

....

BTW - Everything I saw in Phil's Review jived with what you Posted about 200 Pages ago.

 

[SS stingray]

The solara DNA

Wow and only $175.00 that's 6 Isticks !!!

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

Anyone know when V2 will be out?

Nobody really knows how these folks think. As successful as the MVP is, I've given up on Innokin's MVP3. And the way this iStick is selling I'm beginning to think that old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." has roots in China.

I wouldn't wait. Seriously. It has everything 95% of what a moderate vapor would need just as it is. I just might make Mrs. Kodiak skip the Mall for a day and get another. (If she says that's ok of course ).

 

[Fergie]

Nobody really knows how these folks think. As successful as the MVP is, I've given up on Innokin's MVP3. And the way this iStick is selling I'm beginning to think that old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." has roots in China.

I wouldn't wait. Seriously. It has everything 95% of what a moderate vapor would need just as it is. I just might make Mrs. Kodiak skip the Mall for a day and get another. (If she says that's ok of course ).

Happy wife, happy life !!

 

[redddog]

To me, as one, I think the issues being raised in this thread about these isticks points to the fact that these are marketed to the "set and forget " crowd.

I don't even understand the issue yet people here are FURIOUS.

It's small.

It's powerful.

It has a huge battery.

It's cheap.

My stuff works with it.

That's about all I could ask for and don't know enough to be outraged at. This device is for me and my brethren (proud members of the idiocracy). So I'm not sure they'll rush to re-engineer a V2 until this one has stopped FLYING off the shelves. By the look of it, that's gonna be a while.

 

[pcrdude]

To me, as one, I think the issues being raised in this thread about these isticks points to the fact that these are marketed to the "set and forget " crowd.

I don't even understand the issue yet people here are FURIOUS.

It's small.

It's powerful.

It has a huge battery.

It's cheap.

My stuff works with it.
That's about all I could ask for and don't know enough to be outraged at. This device is for me and my brethren (proud members of the idiocracy). So I'm not sure they'll rush to re-engineer a V2 until this one has stopped FLYING off the shelves. By the look of it, that's gonna be a while.

I'm not furious, but I'm not happy either. My stuff doesn't work with it. And all my toppers should have worked if the claimed voltage output was correct.

I have three clearos that do work with it, so I'm OK with my purchase. I have over a dozen flavors in EVODs that don't work with it.

Oh well.

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

... My stuff works with it.

You had me up until this last point my canine friend.

All of *my* stuff just doesn't. Namely, the Aspire Nautilus BVC's because they only go up to 1.8 ohms. Just a tad too hot for 3 "Eleaf" volts. (Fine on anything else at 3.3 or thereabouts). That's a shame too because the Nautilus is a lazy man's dream. For now though, I'll just have to muster up enough strength to wrap a Kayfun coil every month or so. Maybe I can teach the annoying neighbor kid to do 'em at a nickel a pop.

 

[zoiDman]

I'm waiting for the "Is the iStick Better than a Provari?" thread.

 

[athousandyears]

Are cubits still valid?

This kinda made my day.

 

[SS stingray]

. I have over a dozen flavors in EVODs that don't work with it.

Oh well.

I don't understand my PT 2's work and use the same kanger coils. True I rebuild coils but the factory ones are working just fine.

 

[scaredmice]

BTW - Everything I saw in Phil's Review jived with what you Posted about 200 Pages ago.

Yeah, he did that (BTW, I didn't know about that verb, I've just learned a new one!...)....but he has a way better scope that the one in which we were fiddling, you with the real one, me with the images you posted. Both outputs, from the iStick and the VTR at the same circumstances, were quite similar, even putting one above the other.....

... I can always say that 'those were not my scopes...', but that's just because I do not have one.....

If you're referring to my early attempt on check up the voltage readings (something that predated Joyetech but was equally faulty and meaningless), well, it happened that I was doing the same with another mod....but this one has a true DC output.....

And finally, if you're referring to the exact numbers PBusardo found in his comparisons between screen and scope readings, well, maths just give you a clue, based on assumptions that may, or may not, get it properly nailed. The peak voltage of the PWM seems to be a bit unsteady from measurement to measurement, or at least that was my feeling watching the video, so the above curves may get changed because of that factor, but just a bit. Apart form that, the maths and the underlaying plotting, even being theoretical ones, are a good way to adjust the iStick....

.... but nothing can beat the vaper's feeling, this is all about it, isn't it?

Compare my first plot with the video at about 23:40 and so.... you'll find only minor discrepances, taking into account that we are reading PBusardo's voltages over a bar graph, and the question about what happens with the 1,0 ohm load.

And BTW, you can get 20 (o more) watts putting about 1,4 ohm inside the atomizer. I'm doing so just now in a Trident......it is working really fine....

And that's why I like the device, even being a huge failure. I can fire my Trident at 20 W with something that is just barely bigger that the atomizer, and nicely fits on my pocket. Battery endurance is another beast, it is huge, but at 20 W you just drain it quickly...

But remains a huge failure because its power readings and the fact that when I switch the Trident by a Kanger single coil clearomizer it becomes hard to hold its horses, mostly because I rebuild my coils even in those heads below 2 ohm. Next time, I'll try some 2,5 ohm and beyond and we'll see... I must have some 0,12 nichrome in somewhere....

 

[op22222]

Forget statistics, RMS, averages, and the unicorn toots (whatever they are, BTW, remember, I'm not a native English speaker...).

If an electronic appliance says it is giving 10 watts of output, I can expect something in the range of 8,5 to 11,5 W as actual output. And that being frankly open-minded.

But if it is not, and it is going adrift even in the smaller ranges, and giving me 40 % to 90 % more...... and burning thing in the middle....

I do not know you guys, but here we've got stringent regulations against that kind of failures. Of course, I'll be the last to point out iSmoka to anyone about this, but they should learn the lesson, and quickly, because it is about time and a V2 with the same failure won't be tolerated.

And for the record, I'm the guy who seriously considered returning the iStick. Only the lack of proper wholeseller channels for the company which sold it to me, and trying to avoid a case of wrong culprits, led me away of that decision. In the meantime, I'm seriously considering to sell it, so if anyone is getting desperate about it and the empty shelves thing...... it's black, it has got the eLeaf adaptor, it has been charged from empty four times so far, it's been used with an AFC ring adaptor to protect the 510..... and it is located inside the EU...... guess your numbers at about half the purchasing price....

If your not going to use the istick why not see if you can mod it? It seems from reading your posts that you are good with electronics. Here is what I was thinking.....
Open up the top cap and see if you have enough room to solder a 1 ohm resister into the negative wire. This, in essence, should give all your atomizers a higher resistance. For example.... 1.5 ohm atomizer coil + 1 ohm resister =2.5 ohm load etc. Just a thought.

 

[aznnp77]

You had me up until this last point my canine friend.

All of *my* stuff just doesn't. Namely, the Aspire Nautilus BVC's because they only go up to 1.8 ohms. Just a tad too hot for 3 "Eleaf" volts. (Fine on anything else at 3.3 or thereabouts). That's a shame too because the Nautilus is a lazy man's dream. For now though, I'll just have to muster up enough strength to wrap a Kayfun coil every month or so. Maybe I can teach the annoying neighbor kid to do 'em at a nickel a pop.

Or just buy them from fasttech if you're too lazy.

 

[aznnp77]

I don't understand my PT 2's work and use the same kanger coils. True I rebuild coils but the factory ones are working just fine.

People prefer different voltages. I always preferred my protanks at about 6.5 watts. I know a lot of people (like Pbusardo) put his up to 9 on protanks and nautilus stuff. To me, keeping it at lower voltages brings out the most flavor. It doesn't produce clouds of vapor like some people like, but I think the taste is optimal there.

 

[scaredmice]

If your not going to use the istick why not see if you can mod it? It seems from reading your posts that you are good with electronics. Here is what I was thinking.....
Open up the top cap and see if you have enough room to solder a 1 ohm resister into the negative wire. This, in essence, should give all your atomizers a higher resistance. For example.... 1.5 ohm atomizer coil + 1 ohm resister =2.5 ohm load etc. Just a thought.

Mmmm.... We'll need a 20 W capable resistor (which usually comes as ceramic one and it is not tiny enough). Welll actually, not so big, but you know, the safety margins.....

And the heat would be dissipated not only in the atty, but on the resistor, INSIDE the iStick......even if it had plenty of room there, which it hasn't...


Sorry, we cannot do that, it is not a good idea.

Another thing is to change the way of controlling things by the chip, a slight change. If it is possible, and if it has a way to do that. On paper, it is as simple as to change the voltage used to calculate power from the one now used (average) to a new one calculated as the squared root of the product of the voltage measurement and the peak voltage. Because that's precisely the RMS voltage.....

But I lack of any expertise in re-programming chip modules (the so-called firmware) and after all it is a propietary design...who knows about its guts? Me not, ........

Any rocket engineer happens to be lost here? It is just a chip!.......

 

[op22222]

People prefer different voltages. I always preferred my protanks at about 6.5 watts. I know a lot of people (like Pbusardo) put his up to 9 on protanks and nautilus stuff. To me, keeping it at lower voltages brings out the most flavor. It doesn't produce clouds of vapor like some people like, but I think the taste is optimal there.

Something else to consider is the way people inhale. For example.....if I put a protank 3 with a 1.5 coil head on the 'stick and take a hard fast lung hit, the coil doesn't burn the wick. If I inhale slow and easy it burns right away.(at 3 volts)