Eleaf Istick

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Janie47

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I'm just glad I did wait, since I do like a cooler vape, and turning it down is not an option available to me.

FWIW I like a cooler vape too, but maybe I don't need as cool as some? I've been thrilled with mine at 3.0 volts (which I've learned is actually 4). Would never have thought I'd like it at 4 tho.

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Steeldragon

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Well I took the gamble on a new product. I watched his review and he brought up a lot of good points. I now know that when my screen shows 6 watts which is my sweet I know that i am actually vaping at a little over 7 watts. I like the battery life on it and the small size of it. I seen what he compared it to later on Facebook as being similar which the price encompasses all 5 of the IStick that I own. I don't regret buying it and I still love it. I do wonder what version 2 will bring if there is one.

On other note ELeaf, Ismoka and joytech have been intertwined for several years now. I know joytech is trying to play catch up after riding the ego wave for a long time.

I am loving that the technology is constantly changing and I really hope government regulation doesn't stunt what we have here. I feel this is a much better way to quit smoking than Chantix

Of course after I posted this I read the announcement of the joytech e-grip so they could be collecting data for their other product too
 
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Jumpin' In...

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I've never turned mine off at all. Should I?

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Conventional wisdom is that it is better to turn a device like this off if there is a chance that it can fire without you knowing it. For example when you put it in a purse or a pocket with other hard items. I rarely turn mine off and have yet to do so while charging. But then I don't recall if the instruction pamphlet said anything about that either...:?:
 

Steeldragon

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Well have to disagree somewhat on the mean output, Looking at your join date Spaceballsrules that is what we were used to up till last year when we changed the yardstick for how we measured the device. If you remember the days of the Riva and Ego debate where the Riva had a higher output than the ego on the same voltage. This debate isn't new in any form or fashion, Yes the device has flaws that need to be addressed. Will it at this time who knows. and the review stated that the data that is was providing was accurate just not in what we are used to measuring anymore due to outdated tech. As far as the joytech answer was correct if the measurements was in Vavg, I don't think anybody asked that question in detail. Which being only a year out of date is hardly archaic. I would suggest low wattage and low voltage vapors wait till a version 2 is released or look elsewhere for your vapor needs. I like the device even with the flaws in it. I guess in the same way my wife loves me with my many flaws and imperfections. I seriously hope she is not waiting for version 2 of me to be released.
 

Rourke

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So I just pre-ordered the silver and also order the Aspire Nautilus Mini because I think it will look good on top. I have recently gotten into making my own coils, for my Reo Grand, and was looking for suggestions for a small RBA that will look good on top the Istick. This thing is so small that I think most if not all RBAs will look ridiculously to big on top. Also do you think this next batch coming out with have the same voltage problem that I should set it 1 volt lower than I want to vape at? Thanks.
 

Katya

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Please forgive my ignorance but I'm sooo confused by all of this. For instance, the poster who said a Kanger Protank would need a 3.0 ohm coil in order to vape btwn 6-12 watts... I just stuck my PT 3 Mini on my iStick with a 1.5 ohm coil and was able to vape at 5.2 watts? My Nauti minis w/1.8 ohm BVC coils have tasted amazing as well (@ anywhere from 6 to 15 watts depending on my juice). I've had zero burnt hits. What am I missing? Is there a link that explains the problems? I was going to order my niece one of these cos I've loved it, but would like to understand what these issues are before I get her one. I don't want to get her something that is flawed (even tho I'm obviously not experienced enough with vv/vw to notice said flaws. The iTaste vv v3 is the only vv/vw I owned prior to this). Thanks much in advance for any guidance!

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H Jamie, please remember that you are using dual-coil atomizers. A 1.5Ω dual coil atty is really two 3Ω coils configured in parallel; the 1.8Ω dual coil atty is really two 3.6Ω coils. :D

So, a 3Ω coil at 4 volts (I'm not sure what your battery actually outputs--this number is just an example) will give you 5.3 watts; a 3.6Ω coil--4.4 watts. I usually vape my stock dual coils at 4.2-4.8 volts, depending on the device, the juice I'm using, air flow etc.

If the lowest working voltage on the iStick is 4.2v, you can certainly use any stock dual-coil atty safely. You just have to be more careful with single coils; for instance, any 2.5 and up single coil (T3S, eVod, ProTanks 2) will work great and and is still within Kanger's recommended wattage (5-7.5W). You'll have to very careful with 2.3-2.4Ω coils--you may encounter very unpleasant dry hits. I wouldn't recommend anything lower than that (1.8 or 1.5Ω).

More on the subject--if you're interested:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...609427-i-perfer-single-coil.html#post14281416

Hope this helps.

Good luck.
 
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Katya

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Phil's conflict in giving the iStick an overall Thumbs Down is easily understandable. I feel the same way: I love my iStick and use it every day, but eLeaf's and JoyeTech's efforts to obfuscate the problem aggravate me enough that I won't buy another iStick unless eLeaf re-programs the chips to use Vrms in Version 2.

I realize, of course, that my protest is meaningless to eLeaf, but Phil's might not be.

This is, by far, the biggest problem. The eLeaf has a serious flaw that needs to be addressed, but when confronted directly about it, they still claim that it is untrue. They did this in a thread on Reddit where Joyetech specifically asked for feedback on the device and how to make improvements with the version 2.0.

The biggest problem will be the confusion and many unhappy incidents with burnt LR cartos and dry hits among new users--and those who don't follow this thread or watch Phil's videos. This device is relatively inexpensive and is clearly marketed as an upgrade towards eGo-class vv/vw battery users, who are used to exact voltage and wattage output on every setting.

Experienced vapers will figure out right away that the 3 volt setting outputs more than 3 volts, as was clearly evidenced in this thread--from the very beginning. ;)
 

scaredmice

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.../...

Claiming that this is a huge flaw and that Eleaf/Joyetech is lying to us is a bit much.
.../...

No, it isn't, it is a true assestment......

And it is because iStick is both VV and VW......

It it were just VV I agree with all the people who rant about the voltage discussion being an academic one. Because it'd be.....

But at the very first moment it is a VW and can be ride as a true VW, i. e., you can set your preferred wattage disregarding your resistance....well, it fails...

It IS A HUGE FAIL! For God's sake!

You can like it. You can enjoy it (I'm doing that on mine) but in the end of this busy day... it continues to be an epic fail.

Because it is supposed to give power carefully measured, at the user's fingers disposal...and it gives as much as an 90% extra when it kicks down to 3 V average....not less!

And if the engineering quality of its designers is capable of standing, like King Of The Hill, on the statement of 'true power' and 'true voltage', using a $15 voltmeter and an intern to do so in a worlwide accesible video, it means two things:

* They think we're ......ed

* They are not trustworthy as safety electronics matters.

Now you can throw me whatever you like. In the end, in your innards, at the very best common sense, you know I'm truly right...... But you're free to continue ranting about conpiranoic and people who don't like whatever.....

P.S.: BTW....What happened with those who declared that, after some time, the device was settling down its overwhelming power output? I wonder about those people.....
 

pokemom

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I put 2 VV3's in the recycle bin today, and it felt very good. I got so tired of fishing the contact pin up every time I changed toppers. I don't see using any of the current Innokin pv's again unless some serious improvements are made. Thank you, Istick.

Consider grabbing them out of the bin and paying them forward. I'm sure there are a lot of people who could use & would love them. The o-ring for the center pin is relatively easy & you could be helping a new vaper experience vv/vw


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KODIAK (TM)

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...I agree they got it wrong going with Mean rather than RMS but it doesn't mean they lied...
Well, if they were "honestly" wrong then their engineering skills are a bit behind the times. And if they "stretched" the truth this brings in question their character. Either scenario is a problem. :D

Nothing to add to the convo this morning, but the man's name is Pablo. Where did Phil come from?
I call him Pete :D He gets bent out of shape with that but what do you expect when you introduce yourself in every video as "P" Busardo. Sounds like Pete to me (and the rest of the world).
 

Krashman Von Stinkputin

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Just watched Phil's review. Wonder if he'd have been more satisfied if he knew to hit the arrow button again while it was auto-scrolling to accelerate it. And I noticed that delay as well. I think it is so you can hit the button quick to get the display up without firing it. The "stopwatch" doesn't start without that little pause. I wonder if there's a small program bug where it never fires after the pause, the "phanthom hit syndrome" some of us get once or twice a day.

It's hard for me to relate to the mean vs rms thing. I understand it somewhat when it refers to guitar amps. (I might be wrong with this, but peak watts vs rms watts. I ignore the claims of peak, the important value is RMS). Having said that, it doesn't mater to me in the vape. This is my first var wattage device, and first with a readout. With my Halo VV twist, I just turn it up or down. With this, I'm sorta doing the same thing. I haven't learned what wattage I like yet. With 4 new 510 tanks of various resistances and coil designs (bvc, bdc, the 30s thing).

For me, the numbers are like the volume number on my TV. I don't know what the number represents, nor do I care. And I'm not upset if the Sony is right at 11 and the Samsung is too loud at 11.

Of course, this will all change if I got a provari or other accurate device.

But for me, it's a great inexpensive step up from a VV twist into my first trip into VW digital.

I really like this thing.

...and where can you go from there? Where?
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