Eleaf Istick

[redddog]

don't even look at it.

 

[john1211]

When will the major vendors have these in stock?

 

[SS stingray]

I thought his name was Phil. My bad !!!!!!!

 

[SS stingray]

When will the major vendors have these in stock?

I think in the next few days there will be lots around..

 

[Stosh]

Seems to be a lot of speculation on what changes a version 2 would bring to the istick.

What would be the general acceptance be of the V2 if they used a slightly larger case to fit in a spring loaded 510 connector, moved the connector in slightly to lessen the overhang. With the larger case maybe be able to use a larger Li-Po battery, say 3300 mah instead of 2200 mah.

And raised the amp limits, wattage to 30 watt maximum BUT still calibrated using mean, not Rms, (or calibrated in unicorn toots).

 

[Fergie]

I thought his name was Phil. My bad !!!!!!!

It is ...... he gets peed off if you refer to him as Pete. Taste Your Juice | About Me

 

[Bored2Tears]

OK. I am trying to regroup and make a final decision. I've read through at least 90% of all these posts. I've watched Pbusardo's video twice. I mostly understand the variables that single or dual coil setups will give me.

I'm asking for people's experiences with the Istick on the following setups, because this is what I have:

Kanger manufactured single coils at 1.8 and 2.2 ohms
Kanger manufactured dual coils at 1.5 and 1.8 ohms

Please chime in with specific experiences on those. Just right, too hot, for your taste? Actual burned juice or coil? Wicking couldn't keep up and you had to modify the atty?

I'm partly trying to determine whether I should change my choice of battery to an MVP 2.0 or pull the trigger on the istick. Or, just resign myself to rebuilding coils myself. I find 2.2 ohm or higher single coils difficult to find from Kanger......and I believe the dual coils only go up to 1.8 . Trying to narrow down my variables and options without buying different toppers.

 

[DaveOno]

Seems to be a lot of speculation on what changes a version 2 would bring to the iStick.

What would be the general acceptance be of the V2 if they used a slightly larger case to fit in a spring loaded 510 connector, moved the connector in slightly to lessen the overhang. With the larger case maybe be able to use a larger Li-Po battery, say 3300 mah instead of 2200 mah.

And raised the amp limits, wattage to 30 watt maximum BUT still calibrated using mean, not Rms, (or calibrated in unicorn toots).

I wouldn't like it as much if it was bigger. I think the spring loaded connector could fit in the current case. And I think it could move a few mm towards the center for the overhang. For me, neither bothers me. But the appeal for me is the small form factor with the big bat capacity. IMHO, Don't fix that, it ain't broke.

But do fix the RMS board.

It was a thumbs down flaw to release this as "means". It would be a huge failure to release a V2 with means.

What I would now like is a lock. 2 clicks to lock the settings. (Or maybe press both arrows simultaneously to lock/unlock) Since this doesn't go into a pocket randomly, but goes in flat, it's too easy for it to hit something else and change the power. It happened to me 3 or 4 times this weekend as I carried a second tank.

 

[Iowa Gal]

I have been running Kanger Dual Coil 1.8 in an Aerotank around 8 watts with no issues at all.

OK. I am trying to regroup and make a final decision. I've read through at least 90% of all these posts. I've watched Pbusardo's video twice. I mostly understand the variables that single or dual coil setups will give me.

I'm asking for people's experiences with the Istick on the following setups, because this is what I have:

Kanger manufactured single coils at 1.8 and 2.2 ohms
Kanger manufactured dual coils at 1.5 and 1.8 ohms

Please chime in with specific experiences on those. Just right, too hot, for your taste? Actual burned juice or coil? Wicking couldn't keep up and you had to modify the atty?

I'm partly trying to determine whether I should change my choice of battery to an MVP 2.0 or pull the trigger on the istick. Or, just resign myself to rebuilding coils myself. I find 2.2 ohm or higher single coils difficult to find from Kanger......and I believe the dual coils only go up to 1.8 . Trying to narrow down my variables and options without buying different toppers.

 

[pcrdude]

OK. I am trying to regroup and make a final decision. I've read through at least 90% of all these posts. I've watched Pbusardo's video twice. I mostly understand the variables that single or dual coil setups will give me.

I'm asking for people's experiences with the Istick on the following setups, because this is what I have:

Kanger manufactured single coils at 1.8 and 2.2 ohms
Kanger manufactured dual coils at 1.5 and 1.8 ohms

Please chime in with specific experiences on those. Just right, too hot, for your taste? Actual burned juice or coil? Wicking couldn't keep up and you had to modify the atty?

I'm partly trying to determine whether I should change my choice of battery to an MVP 2.0 or pull the trigger on the istick. Or, just resign myself to rebuilding coils myself. I find 2.2 ohm or higher single coils difficult to find from Kanger......and I believe the dual coils only go up to 1.8 . Trying to narrow down my variables and options without buying different toppers.

Kanger single coils at 2.5 ohms burns my 50/50 liquids at istick setting of 3.0 volts.

Kanger genitank 1.8 ohms BDC makes TONS of vapor at the same setting, with no burnt flavor. Same ratio liquid.

If you use a higher PG percentage, you might get away with it on the single coils.

 

[Bored2Tears]

Thanks for the responses thus far. I am primarily running 50/50 juices......but I could alter that too... I'm finding out that I actually prefer 65PG/35VG or so...seems to wick better and I have no allergy issue. I don't care about extra visual vapor.

 

[Stosh]

But do fix the RMS board.

It was a thumbs down flaw to release this as "means". It would be a huge failure to release a V2 with means. ......

So if I have two mech mods, same model and one hits harder it's a "huge failure"?

RMS is a simple mathematical formula designed to be able to compare apples and oranges for an electrical engineer.
It is no more valid as a vaping measurement than calibrations in unicorn toots.

If a version 2 doesn't hit as hard, and have possibly a higher wattage capability, it would be a huge failure, regardless of calibration.

 

[Trailz]

I have been running Kanger Dual Coil 1.8 in an Aerotank around 8 watts with no issues at all.

Exactly where I am with the same tank/coil. I started out at 10W (what I was running on the MVP2) and was greeted with my first ever dry hit (nasty, burnt taste that took about an hour to go away), something I'd never before experienced. I personally won't go above 8W on these coils on this version of the istick.

 

[SS stingray]

ISTICK FAILURE

After only after 3 days my second stick fails. It was fully charged after 30 min unit just shut off like low charge. Put on charger and screen says locked low. After 10 min says fully charged. As soon as you put on tank shuts off for low power. Any ideas ? This is why I would love a replaceable battery. i hope i can send back


Keep on messing with it and now it's working . I don't know ??

 

[pokemom]

OK. I am trying to regroup and make a final decision. I've read through at least 90% of all these posts. I've watched Pbusardo's video twice. I mostly understand the variables that single or dual coil setups will give me.

I'm asking for people's experiences with the Istick on the following setups, because this is what I have:

Kanger manufactured single coils at 1.8 and 2.2 ohms
Kanger manufactured dual coils at 1.5 and 1.8 ohms

Please chime in with specific experiences on those. Just right, too hot, for your taste? Actual burned juice or coil? Wicking couldn't keep up and you had to modify the atty?

I'm partly trying to determine whether I should change my choice of battery to an MVP 2.0 or pull the trigger on the istick. Or, just resign myself to rebuilding coils myself. I find 2.2 ohm or higher single coils difficult to find from Kanger......and I believe the dual coils only go up to 1.8 . Trying to narrow down my variables and options without buying different toppers.

Okay, here is my honest opinion. Please note that I have 2 isticks, love them and am considering buying a third. That said, I personally can not use any of my single kanger coils on this device. I don't rebuild my kanger coils, and I get a burnt taste on all of my stock single coils (even my 2.5s). I had a PT2 with a single coil and air flow controller, even full open it burnt.

That said, the dual coils work great, I'm using a 1.8 now on a genitank and love it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Iowa Gal]

If you have double checked your charger connection, does sound like you have a failed unit. Hopefully you purchased with a warranty.

ISTICK FAILURE

After only after 3 days my second stick fails. It was fully charged after 30 min unit just shut off like low charge. Put on charger and screen says locked low. After 10 min says fully charged. As soon as you put on tank shuts off for low power. Any ideas ? This is why I would love a replaceable battery. i hope i can send back


Keep on messing with it and now it's working . I don't know ??

 

[zoiDman]

Hey Gang, missed a Day of this Thread and out 200 post have gone by.

Did Phil do an iStick Review? If so, does anyone have a Link?

 

[sonicdsl]

Heya Zoid... here ya go:

 

[pcrdude]

So if I have two mech mods, same model and one hits harder it's a "huge failure"?

RMS is a simple mathematical formula designed to be able to compare apples and oranges for an electrical engineer.
It is no more valid as a vaping measurement than calibrations in unicorn toots.

If a version 2 doesn't hit as hard, and have possibly a higher wattage capability, it would be a huge failure, regardless of calibration.

I disagree. Voltage in RMS (for a PWM supply) more closely approximates what voltage one would get from using a true DC source. Voltage in average (from a PWM supply) does not, unless at an extremly short "off" percentage of the duty cycle.

I am not the only one burning liquids at the lowest setting of 3 volts indicated using 50/50 and Kanger factory single coils. The same setup works great on all my other 3.7 volt batteries.

 

[KTMRider]

No, it isn't, it is a true assestment......

And it is because iStick is both VV and VW......

It it were just VV I agree with all the people who rant about the voltage discussion being an academic one. Because it'd be.....

But at the very first moment it is a VW and can be ride as a true VW, i. e., you can set your preferred wattage disregarding your resistance....well, it fails...

It IS A HUGE FAIL! For God's sake!

You can like it. You can enjoy it (I'm doing that on mine) but in the end of this busy day... it continues to be an epic fail.

Because it is supposed to give power carefully measured, at the user's fingers disposal...and it gives as much as an 90% extra when it kicks down to 3 V average....not less!

And if the engineering quality of its designers is capable of standing, like King Of The Hill, on the statement of 'true power' and 'true voltage', using a $15 voltmeter and an intern to do so in a worlwide accesible video, it means two things:

* They think we're ......ed

* They are not trustworthy as safety electronics matters.

Now you can throw me whatever you like. In the end, in your innards, at the very best common sense, you know I'm truly right...... But you're free to continue ranting about conpiranoic and people who don't like whatever.....

P.S.: BTW....What happened with those who declared that, after some time, the device was settling down its overwhelming power output? I wonder about those people.....

{MODERATED} Huge, epic fail but you're still enjoying it? How is that a fail?

Well, if they were "honestly" wrong then their engineering skills are a bit behind the times. And if they "stretched" the truth this brings in question their character. Either scenario is a problem.

I call him Pete He gets bent out of shape with that but what do you expect when you introduce yourself in every video as "P" Busardo. Sounds like Pete to me (and the rest of the world).

They didn't stretch the truth. It fires at the shown voltage. BUT IN MEAN, NOT RMS.

Seems to be a lot of speculation on what changes a version 2 would bring to the iStick.

What would be the general acceptance be of the V2 if they used a slightly larger case to fit in a spring loaded 510 connector, moved the connector in slightly to lessen the overhang. With the larger case maybe be able to use a larger Li-Po battery, say 3300 mah instead of 2200 mah.

And raised the amp limits, wattage to 30 watt maximum BUT still calibrated using mean, not Rms, (or calibrated in unicorn toots).

The battery is a 18650. There is a 3100 mah and 3400 mah currently available and much more expensive than a 2200 mah. That would drive up the cost of the istick.

OK. I am trying to regroup and make a final decision. I've read through at least 90% of all these posts. I've watched Pbusardo's video twice. I mostly understand the variables that single or dual coil setups will give me.

I'm asking for people's experiences with the Istick on the following setups, because this is what I have:

Kanger manufactured single coils at 1.8 and 2.2 ohms
Kanger manufactured dual coils at 1.5 and 1.8 ohms

Please chime in with specific experiences on those. Just right, too hot, for your taste? Actual burned juice or coil? Wicking couldn't keep up and you had to modify the atty?

I'm partly trying to determine whether I should change my choice of battery to an MVP 2.0 or pull the trigger on the istick. Or, just resign myself to rebuilding coils myself. I find 2.2 ohm or higher single coils difficult to find from Kanger......and I believe the dual coils only go up to 1.8 . Trying to narrow down my variables and options without buying different toppers.

I used an Aerotank at 2.0 and 1.5 pre-built coils (both dual coil) and a rebuilt 1.5 single with cotton and they worked fine for me.

Thanks for the responses thus far. I am primarily running 50/50 juices......but I could alter that too... I'm finding out that I actually prefer 65PG/35VG or so...seems to wick better and I have no allergy issue. I don't care about extra visual vapor.

If your juice is too thick, you can add a few drops of distilled water to thin it out.

Hey Gang, missed a Day of this Thread and out 200 post have gone by.

Did Phil do an iStick Review? If so, does anyone have a Link?

A PBusardo Review & Contest - The Eleaf iStick - YouTube