Eleaf Istick

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bored2Tears

Super Member
Verified Member
Sep 26, 2014
713
1,076
Western South Dakota
I rebuild everything, and the Kanger coils are probably the easiest for me. There's no little screws to mess with, and it's easy to trim the wicks without having to worry much with tail density/location. Of course, I have to wear my strongest readers, but once you've done a few of them, you'll see they're really not as scary as you thought they'd be.

BNEAT, I'm planning to rebuild my single coil Kanger Protanks so that I can get appropriate resistance to use with my istick. Curious what build you generally use on the Kangers. Also, specifically... I see some people pay no attention to the coil winding whether they touch or equal spacing. Others use the torch and squeeze together method. What are your thoughts on this? Does it make any difference in performance or longevity of the coil with the Kangers? What wick material are you using and do you put a flavor wick on top . I also saw one guy advocating a wick on top and one below the coil. He claimed one below the coil prevents flooding and one on top prevents hot spitting into your mouth.
 

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,633
1
84,773
So-Cal
i-Sdw2Rkz-XL.jpg

This is a Very Nice JPG MORTIS e.

Very Nice Lighting. And Very Nice use of Depth of Field.
 

MORTIS e

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 15, 2014
164
300
Ontario, Canada
Great pics! Very professional.

I'd have to agree Mortis. In addition to the stock glass mini, I have a stainless one as well. Both look respectable on the black iStick. A perfect fit if Eleaf would back up the 510 connector just a few mm.

And some of you guys take great pics. Mine always look like they came from a flip phone. :(

Ditto. Great pics. I was too lazy to take out my dslr.

This is a Very Nice JPG MORTIS e.

Very Nice Lighting. And Very Nice use of Depth of Field.

Thanks guys! Photography happens to be another of my passionate hobbies.
 

Jayscuzzi

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 20, 2014
210
284
North Central, Il.
BNEAT, I'm planning to rebuild my single coil Kanger Protanks so that I can get appropriate resistance to use with my istick. Curious what build you generally use on the Kangers. Also, specifically... I see some people pay no attention to the coil winding whether they touch or equal spacing. Others use the torch and squeeze together method. What are your thoughts on this? Does it make any difference in performance or longevity of the coil with the Kangers? What wick material are you using and do you put a flavor wick on top . I also saw one guy advocating a wick on top and one below the coil. He claimed one below the coil prevents flooding and one on top prevents hot spitting into your mouth.
I'm not BEAT but I build mine at 1.7 to 1.8. Could go lower but they are performing well. I do not use a flavor wick in them but I do put an extra piece of cotton on the coil on aero tanks I build just because there is more of a gap between post and where it sits into.
Experiment they are a breeze to build. I use to torch and squeeze but truthfully I find it was a waste of time. I just wrap as close as possible. Squeeze while still on drill bit to tighten up and insert.
Hardest thing is holding into place while inserting rubber and on back into base.
I find if I hold into place with the biggest drill bit that will fit into top of opening and press against coil on drill bit it makes for a steady placement.
Hope this helps.
 

Jayscuzzi

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 20, 2014
210
284
North Central, Il.
I'm not BNEAT but I build mine at 1.7 to 1.8. Could go lower but they are performing well. I do not use a flavor wick in them but I do put an extra piece of cotton on the coil on aero tanks I build just because there is more of a gap between post and where it sits into.
Experiment they are a breeze to build. I use to torch and squeeze but truthfully I find it was a waste of time. I just wrap as close as possible. Squeeze while still on drill bit to tighten up and insert.
Hardest thing is holding into place while inserting rubber and pin back into base.
I find if I hold into place with the biggest drill bit that will fit into top of opening and press against coil on drill bit it makes for a steady placement.
Hope this helps.
I don't always explain so people understand.
 

salemgold

ECF Guru
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2010
28,155
63,784
South Carolina
Here was my experience: I ordered an in stock black istick from VapeNW yesterday at 11 am. At 7pm I had the shipping confirmation and tracking number in my email. Now, I don't have it in my hands yet...so I can't report on complete success but I'm certainly satisfied so far.

I really don't understand their pre-order / in-stock procedure. Doesn't seem like they have a discernable way of handling themselves in that regard.

By the way, I paid $32.49 + $6 shipping for a total of $38.49.

I am really just guessing here but, maybe they paid more for the iSticks that they have "in stock" than the ones that folks preordered. That would make it possible that they were able to ship what is "in stock" but not what people have on preorder.
 

BNEAT

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 25, 2013
2,509
5,549
62
Louisville, Kentucky
BNEAT, I'm planning to rebuild my single coil Kanger Protanks so that I can get appropriate resistance to use with my istick. Curious what build you generally use on the Kangers. Also, specifically... I see some people pay no attention to the coil winding whether they touch or equal spacing. Others use the torch and squeeze together method. What are your thoughts on this? Does it make any difference in performance or longevity of the coil with the Kangers? What wick material are you using and do you put a flavor wick on top . I also saw one guy advocating a wick on top and one below the coil. He claimed one below the coil prevents flooding and one on top prevents hot spitting into your mouth.

I haven't used a "flavor wick" since I switched to Rayon wicking material. I don't use my Protanks much anymore, but I did build a coil for one when I got my iStick. I built it at 1.2 ohms to suit the iStick's power range, (which I thought was limited to 5 volts). My coil is 29ga x 2.0dia x 6 wraps compressed, and it's handling 20 watts just fine, but my tank is heavily modified with holes drilled all over the place, metal removed to make room for a bigger coil/wick, etc., etc. (it's easy to modify a PT for max juice flow, but max air flow is another story) I haven't tried to build a "reasonable" coil for moderate power, so I'm not the person to ask about that. But I'm pretty sure Rayon is the correct choice for wicking material, no matter what your build is.
 

R1Barlow

Senior Member
Sep 23, 2014
130
43
Tampa, FL
I'm loving my Istick even better. Bad News: I was on a short trip and had my Istick in my Floor caddy, along with a large mug of water. I made a sharp turn, the water turned over and flooded my Floor caddy (and Istick). Needless to say, my Istick quit working. I did without a smoke(vape) for over 3 hours. When I got home and switched batteries, all is well ---- Vaping again. Best news: After about 5 hours, before I threw the Istick away, I decided to give it one more try. IT WORKED!!!!!
Surprise, Surprise - after about 5 hours the istick dried out and, to my surprise, works again.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread