Eleaf Istick

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op22222

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Just got my shipping notice also. I have an old O-scope and will play with the istick when it comes in. It sounds to me like the volt setting is regulating the volts but the coil can still draw high amps even at low voltage. It seems to me that if you were set it to regulate the wattage, the coil wouldn't get as hot because it would regulate the amperage better. If not, the chip isn't working properly.
 

DEAc23

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I've seen ebay sellers jack up prices to unreasonable levels when they are out of stock, rather than end a listing. Then when stock is replenished, they bring the price back to normal. I don't really understand the reason for this, but it happens fairly often.

They do that so they can keep the stats from the current ad, that way when they re-stock they still have an ad that says 100 sold or however many.
 

Patrick H

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Stosh

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From the descriptions posted of measurements with Smok meters and other in-line meters it would appear that the iStick is using PWM. The same PWM that the MVP, Provari, ZMax, and Vamo uses, it's the additional circuitry that makes the difference in the final output to your coil, not PWM or duty cycle (misnamed frequency). (the cheap meters cannot accurately measure these)

PWM outputs a square or sawtooth waveform that then must be smoothed and filtered with capacitors and chokes, same as your computer's power supply takes 120 volts AC 60 htz and provides a flat 5 volts DC to the digital circuitry +-.01 volts and millivolts of ripple. It would seem these APV don't filter perfectly, wouldn't expect them to for the size and price.

That said I've found some tanks and toppers are more sensitive to the ripple in the output of some mods. I have some very old regulated mods that have a very poor smoothing and filtering, they will run some toppers very hot, have to turn them way down. Those same toppers will function normally on my MVP at a higher number, but will vape fine if I adjust to taste, not numbers. I bet if these were labeled Low - Medimum - High, everyone could adjust them to where they vape well.

I still vape a number of my old unregulated mod quite often, with a fresh battery they run hot for the coils I build. I simply pulse the fire button on and off while taking a draw until the 4.2 volt surface charge drops to the 3.9 volt range.

I plan on picking up one or two of these puppies once they are widely available, I have enough to hold me a few years, so no rush. It would appear these should run what used to be considered standard ohms, (2.5-3.0Ω) very well. Maybe break out some of my old 801 atomizers, although they ran 3.2Ω standard, but may still fire hot enough for me.
 

salemgold

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just got my shipping notice today. cant wait. my stupid vamo keeps cuttin out. i have to unscrew the battery to reset it - a LOT! my other vamo and dna 30 dont work at all cause of 510 issues. looking forward to the istick. funny name tho :laugh:

Ha, ha! That reminded me of what this reviewer said about the name.

The eLeaf iStick has a confusing name for the English speaking markets. I don’t think of the word “stick” when I’m looking at a rectangular boxed shape mod. That said, after using it /for a week (off and on), the name of this variable voltage, variable wattage device didn’t matter. The iStick is a wicked performer in a small package.



eLeaf iStick Review | Spinfuel eMagazine
 

salemgold

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If anyone is thinking of a preorder, you can get 5% off with code 5off here IStick by Eleaf "Box Only" - Vapor Tek USA
Shipping is $1.99

Some friends and I went in on a bulk buy there. If you buy 10 or more plus use the code, they are only $23.75 each. It is just the box. No adapter and no charger.The shipping stays at 1.99 even with a bulk buy.

They did update to say that they expect shipping from China on Oct 5 so probably would be mid October to have in hand.
 

op22222

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From the descriptions posted of measurements with Smok meters and other in-line meters it would appear that the iStick is using PWM. The same PWM that the MVP, Provari, ZMax, and Vamo uses, it's the additional circuitry that makes the difference in the final output to your coil, not PWM or duty cycle (misnamed frequency). (the cheap meters cannot accurately measure these)

PWM outputs a square or sawtooth waveform that then must be smoothed and filtered with capacitors and chokes, same as your computer's power supply takes 120 volts AC 60 htz and provides a flat 5 volts DC to the digital circuitry +-.01 volts and millivolts of ripple. It would seem these APV don't filter perfectly, wouldn't expect them to for the size and price.

That said I've found some tanks and toppers are more sensitive to the ripple in the output of some mods. I have some very old regulated mods that have a very poor smoothing and filtering, they will run some toppers very hot, have to turn them way down. Those same toppers will function normally on my MVP at a higher number, but will vape fine if I adjust to taste, not numbers. I bet if these were labeled Low - Medimum - High, everyone could adjust them to where they vape well.

I still vape a number of my old unregulated mod quite often, with a fresh battery they run hot for the coils I build. I simply pulse the fire button on and off while taking a draw until the 4.2 volt surface charge drops to the 3.9 volt range.

I plan on picking up one or two of these puppies once they are widely available, I have enough to hold me a few years, so no rush. It would appear these should run what used to be considered standard ohms, (2.5-3.0Ω) very well. Maybe break out some of my old 801 atomizers, although they ran 3.2Ω standard, but may still fire hot enough for me.
Thanks Stosh, makes perfect sense to me, because if the pulse isn't rectified properly, and the unit is sending out pulses instead of a smooth DC current, then the DC volt meter isn't going to read it correctly.
 

dwg64

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I ordered mine early afternoon today,"silver" and it says shipped. I'll be curious to see if it performs as well as my Hana clone with my nautilus minis. I'm vaping at 13 watts and love the setup, and now I'm wanting to order a silo to go with it. Just hope to get the satisfaction I'm experiencing now for what it is. Guess we'll see in a few days. I keep ya posted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Katdarling

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I've just finished catching up with you guys (20+ pages).

pcrdude, have you perhaps thought to use a karto with the iStick? I realize that might sound a bit old school, but it certainly might work a lot better for you than your Kanger coils. 3.0Ω Boges are (still) readily available.



now...about that 2200 mAh cigalike with an inline 3 ml RBA topper.....hmmmm ???

:lol:

You stopped me dead in my tracks thinking about a 2200 mAh cigalike! Bring it on!!!



My gosh people.......5 yrs ago we bought puny 510's that lasted 1 1/2 hrs and were crap......for like $79........ end of rant :)

^^^^^ uh huh ^^^^^


That is where is mine came from was LF, I went the Riva route instead of the EGO route due to the 3.7 instead of 3.2. This forum was a lot different in those days


Me as well, Steeldragon. I really loved my Rivas.... and loved each and every day of the 3 months they lasted. :facepalm:


They are available through Eigate. Seems that none of the vendors are stocking them yet though.

Here they are in the regular (non nautilus) BVCs

Aspire BVC General Coils (NOT For Nautilus/mini) 5 piece [8201V] - $10.00 : Aspire online shopping

And here as well: Aspire BVC Coils


At 1.5 ohms it gives out a strong vape (warm),with a 1.8 ohm coil it is a smooth kitty cat.

Yeah, just felt like quoting you. ;)



I certainly hope the 170 units they have already sold were at the $30-40 price point. That is just horrible.


Do I need stronger cheaters? Did that read $99??

If you click on the "170 sold" you'll see that they raised their price at appx. 17:11 yesterday. Wow is right, silenced!
 

AnsonJames

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I've seen ebay sellers jack up prices to unreasonable levels when they are out of stock, rather than end a listing. Then when stock is replenished, they bring the price back to normal. I don't really understand the reason for this, but it happens fairly often.

That's to stop people from buying them and keep the listing active.
 

OldtimeRocker

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How long have to tried the battery for ? No battery stay at 4.2v long at all, most of your vape time in a imr battery with be in the 3.5-3.7v volt like 80% of the useable vape battery is going to be in this range. One of the reasons the istick does not have a step down(buck chip) is batteries just don't stay above 4 v for very long i doubt you will get 10 hits at 4 v maybe @6 watt you will get 20 :) but it wont be for very long at all. to get 6 watts @2.4ohms the battery just need to drop to 3.8 that going to happen very fast. Your 5 watt not so much this device is just not built to go that low and i agree it is faults advertizing. We American should be used to that we see it all day ever day, but still we buy the china junk and ask for more :)As long as it cheap price we don't seem to care. Far as i can tell if will only go down to 3.2v the battery cut out point. Personal i would try to get my money back this Mod is not for you.

For me i got this yesterday and man am loving this thing it ROCKS i vape 6-9ml a day used this all of yesterday(afternoon) and this morning so far and it still over 50% guessing the useable battery is about gone in this right now but it's vaping great for me. Been using mostly RDA's @1.2-1.4 @ 12-14w i love it, form factor it worth twice the price. Glad i bought 2 This is a great Mod i can see myself using these often.


My Protank at 2.6 ohms is burnt tasting at 3.0 volts indicated on the istick. On the MVP, or eVic, it's just perfect at 3.7 volts indicated.

This seems like two different chips in our isticks.

Yours bucks, and mine doesn't....
 

pcrdude

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I just contacted vapenw requesting a return for refund. They have a 10% restocking fee, and shipping was $11, so I'm going to be at a pretty big loss after paying to ship them back.

I have a silver one, and a blue one.

Maybe I need to just find someone local to sell them too (some high wattage vaper)....

I really like these little isticks, but they just won't work for me.

My total cost for both isticks (delivered) was $76.00.

BTW, regardless of what others have written here, MY isticks are producing too much energy based on comaprisons to my other mods, and the energy cannot be reduced to an appropriate level with the controls. I just don't know if they are working as designed, or are defective. Others here are having the same problem I am.......
 

OldtimeRocker

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