Eleaf Istick

[Rourke]

I have been using the nautilus Mini on my istick and due to the small size I do need to take it off and refill it often. Thankfully the threads on the Istick seem to be fine. Opening the nautilus Mini is another story, it seems to get tougher and tougher to open. I have to use rubber bands and gloves and it is always a huge pain. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Cotay]

I'm amazed that price gouging for the iStick has now appeared! Here is someone that raised their price to $99 from $34 for the black...$999.88 for the pink. This vendor had been linked to from Vaping Cheap so I guess they just want to take advantage of the extra traffic. What surprises me is that someone actually paid the $99 asking price for one...ouch!

Istick by Eleaf 20W 20 Watt 510 Adapter Included Lot in Stock Ready to SHIP | eBay

 

[KTMRider]

So, is the thread material soft? or is it a bad cut that some are forcing through? or is a difference in threads from a variety of connectors?
I haven't had a problem. But I have always thought 510s weren't cut deep enough. They were always iffy. Not like the old 801 & 901s, that had real threads.

I think the one that LadyPharaoh sent me was bad from the factory. The threads on my Istick is fine but the pin needs a nudge every now and then when I swap with a different atomizer. I was testing the VT 510 connectors with my multimeter when I first got them and they all made good contact with all my atomizers, even the unusually short Erlk 510's. And it was repeatable. I'm definitely sold on spring loaded center pins. I ordered a few more on Sat and I should have them tomorrow. VT ships same day and is very fast. The VT is shorter than the FDV but I think the bottom of the base to the end of the connector might be shorter on the FDV due to the thick base.


I just checked and it looks like the ohms are reading normally now on FrankenIstick.

 

[KTMRider]

I'm amazed that price gouging for the iStick has now appeared! Here is someone that raised their price to $99 from $34 for the black...$999.88 for the pink. This vendor had been linked to from Vaping Cheap so I guess they just want to take advantage of the extra traffic. What surprises me is that someone actually paid the $99 asking price for one...ouch!

Istick by Eleaf 20W 20 Watt 510 Adapter Included Lot in Stock Ready to SHIP | eBay

eBay sellers do that so people won't buy but it keeps their auction and sold numbers alive. They lower the price when they're back in stock.

*Edit: I posted before (somewhere) that wwwvapenw.com has all the colors in stock for $36 shipped. I got mine from them off eBay but they stopped selling on eBay.

 

[Woofer]

For those of you who get burnt taste at 3.0 eLeaf volts using a Kanger 2.5 ohm single coil...

I do as well. It is probably important to state what your vg/pg ratio is, since that can effect wicking considerably.

I vape 50/50 almost excusively, and my single coil Kangers taste burnt at around 4.2 RMS (not the eLeaf type) volts. If YOU don't get a burnt vape on Kanger single coils, chime in with your vg/pg ratio. I'm guessing those that don't get a burnt taste use higher PG levels than those that do get the burnt taste.

Of course, I could be wrong, so post up your ratios please...

I`m sure there is truth to what you say, however...
I also experienced lots of burnt hits with a UCT Russian 91%, even with a 3 ohm coil, 70, 30 and 40, 60 PG VG.
The same tank and builder I can chain vape like a madman at 15 watts on the VS rDNA 40 with kanthal coils (no temp protection) and get no burnt hits. YMMV

 

[ScandaLeX]

I'm amazed that price gouging for the iStick has now appeared! Here is someone that raised their price to $99 from $34 for the black...$999.88 for the pink. This vendor had been linked to from Vaping Cheap so I guess they just want to take advantage of the extra traffic. What surprises me is that someone actually paid the $99 asking price for one...ouch!

Istick by Eleaf 20W 20 Watt 510 Adapter Included Lot in Stock Ready to SHIP | eBay

The times I've seen $99, especially on eBay was when the vendor was OOS. They raised the price 'hoping' people would take time to read the description & discover it's only displaying that until they get more in stock. Personally I never understood why not just remove the listing til you get them in.

Anyway, this same vendor also has iSticks in stock for $29.86

 

[Cotay]

eBay sellers do that so people won't buy but it keeps their auction and sold numbers alive. They lower the price when they're back in stock.

*Edit: I posted before (somewhere) that wwwvapenw.com has all the colors in stock for $36 shipped. I got mine from them off eBay but they stopped selling on eBay.

I agree that is usually the case, but this vendor claims to have more than 10 of the blacks and 3 reds. I'm guessing that he sees that supply is nearing the "sold out" level and at some point people will pay the inflated price if they can't wait for the next shipments to arrive.

 

[KTMRider]

The times I've seen $99, especially on eBay was when the vendor was OOS. They raised the price 'hoping' people would take time to read the description & discover it's only displaying that until they get more in stock. Personally I never understood why not just remove the listing til you get them in.

Anyway, this same vendor also has iSticks in stock for $29.86

Vapeoutlet and VapeNW are 2 different companies. Some were having problems with Vapeoutlet but I ordered an ohm reader from them and they shipped fast. That's my only experience with them.

 

[four2109]

I think the one that LadyPharaoh sent me was bad from the factory. The threads on my Istick is fine but the pin needs a nudge every now and then when I swap with a different atomizer. I was testing the VT 510 connectors with my multimeter when I first got them and they all made good contact with all my atomizers, even the unusually short Erlk 510's. And it was repeatable. I'm definitely sold on spring loaded center pins. I ordered a few more on Sat and I should have them tomorrow. VT ships same day and is very fast. The VT is shorter than the FDV but I think the bottom of the base to the end of the connector might be shorter on the FDV due to the thick base.


I just checked and it looks like the ohms are reading normally now on FrankenIstick.

Hmm, I just wondered if you could tell what the problem was with the threads. Is there one specific thing that Eleaf should fix? I've heard people talk about "having to force".... "strips out".... but I've heard the same thing about other devices which makes me wonder if it isn't the topper connector.
There are 2 issues, because the "have to back off" sounds like a bad insulator and not bad threads...
I wonder how many they have sold vs how many have problems...

 

[KTMRider]

Hmm, I just wondered if you could tell what the problem was with the threads. Is there one specific thing that Eleaf should fix? I've heard people talk about "having to force".... "strips out".... but I've heard the same thing about other devices which makes me wonder if it isn't the topper connector.
There are 2 issues, because the "have to back off" sounds like a bad insulator and not bad threads...
I wonder how many they have sold vs how many have problems...

The top cap looks like it's made of some cheap cast metal and fairly soft. When I drilled the hole, I was getting long strips of metal and went thru pretty quick. I think they didn't cut the threads well or the tap had something in the threads and screwed up the cut. My MVP2 top cap feels like its the same material but they have a sleeve and they rivet a 510 connector to the sleeve. I'm also in the process of replacing that with a VT 510. I plan on tapping the threads in the sleeve and screw the VT 510 in with some blue loctite.

 

[four2109]

The top cap looks like it's made of some cheap cast metal and fairly soft. When I drilled the hole, I was getting long strips of metal and went thru pretty quick. I think they didn't cut the threads well or the tap had something in the threads and screwed up the cut. My MVP2 top cap feels like its the same material but they have a sleeve and they rivet a 510 connector to the sleeve. I'm also in the process of replacing that with a VT 510. I plan on tapping the threads in the sleeve and screw the VT 510 in with some blue loctite.

But the top cap shouldn't matter. Are the threads cut into a substandard metal? I really don't get it. I grew up around nuts and bolts and the 510 is a very fine, undefined thread. It's not a lug nut. The 510 has always been crap and never should have been set as the standard, but it has.
I guess I wonder if the real problem is not the thread but the depth of the connector/pin that is causing the problem.
I screw mine in carefully until they make contact. Fire, vape, done.

 

[Stosh]

...So, Stosh.... what does all this mean in simplistic terms? Vape by taste still applicable? I've just NEVER been one for numbers. I don't get them, and they certainly don't get me.

Simple terms, in a mech mod with a known pure DC voltage, and a known resistance, the wattage is exact and able to be easily calculated.

When you introduce electronics into a simple, cheap consumer product all the numbers are suspect as they relate to the overall performance of the product. We're back to starting at a number and adjusting by taste from there.

Remember the old MP3 players, set the volume to 5, and depending on the headphones used you had to adjust it up or down. Don't remember a lot of complaining about how setting the volume to 5 wasn't the same on every player either.....

 

[KTMRider]

But the top cap shouldn't matter. Are the threads cut into a substandard metal? I really don't get it. I grew up around nuts and bolts and the 510 is a very fine, undefined thread. It's not a lug nut. The 510 has always been crap and never should have been set as the standard, but it has.
I guess I wonder if the real problem is not the thread but the depth of the connector/pin that is causing the problem.
I screw mine in carefully until they make contact. Fire, vape, done.

The 510 connection is molded into the top cap and then the threads are cut into it. At least on the MVP2, they press fit a 510 connector into the sleeve of the top cap but the center pin bushing fails, just like the Istick.

A 510 connector is m7 x .5 threading so it is standarized. The problem is that the 510 connector on the mods are usually soft metal (brass, cast aluminum, etc) and the center pins have weak bushings that fail often. There is no standards for length of the male 510 under atomizers or depth in mods so that's where the issue arises. The adjustable and spring loaded center pins fix this issue.

 

[Katdarling]

I have been using the Nautilus Mini on my Istick and due to the small size I do need to take it off and refill it often. Thankfully the threads on the Istick seem to be fine. Opening the Nautilus Mini is another story, it seems to get tougher and tougher to open. I have to use rubber bands and gloves and it is always a huge pain. Just my 2 cents.

I'm glad you mentioned that actually. That (and constant refilling) is my slight gripe with a wonderful topper.

 

[ScandaLeX]

Vapeoutlet and VapeNW are 2 different companies. Some were having problems with Vapeoutlet but I ordered an ohm reader from them and they shipped fast. That's my only experience with them.

I never heard of or read anything bad about Vapeoutlet but do keep seeing a lot of negative stuff about VapeNW.
Oh well.....I just want somebody to get the Aspire Atlantis in stock.

 

[Katya]

I have been using the Nautilus Mini on my Istick and due to the small size I do need to take it off and refill it often. Thankfully the threads on the Istick seem to be fine. Opening the Nautilus Mini is another story, it seems to get tougher and tougher to open. I have to use rubber bands and gloves and it is always a huge pain. Just my 2 cents.

You're not the first person to have problems with unscrewing that tank--there are many threads discussing it. Here's the latest one.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ni-thing-impossible-unscrew.html#post14602307

I wonder if this is happening because, as it turns out, Aspire is using chrome-plated brass to make Nautilus's chimney--even though they claim that they use stainless steel--and the inner threads inside the chimney are bad.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s-has-chromed-brass-chimney.html#post14607846

After checking the Aspire forum, I found out this thread Aspire Support: •View topic - the chimney of the Nautilus is chrome plated brass

Aspire actually admits that the Nautilus chimney is made of brass and the surface is chromed.

I've checked the Nautilus manual (http://www.aspirecig.com/uploads/soft/Manual-aspire-Nautilus.pdf) and all they say is that Nautilus is made of Stainless Steel & Pyrex glass. They never mentioned the Chromed Brass chimney before...

I would love to hear your thoughts on this.

 

[OldLadyO]

double post

 

[OldLadyO]

I never heard of or read anything bad about Vapeoutlet but do keep seeing a lot of negative stuff about VapeNW.
Oh well.....I just want somebody to get the Aspire Atlantis in stock.

Aspire Atlantis | Sub-ohm Tank | Free Shipping They're shipping on the 20th

 

[Fergie]

I never heard of or read anything bad about Vapeoutlet but do keep seeing a lot of negative stuff about VapeNW.
Oh well.....I just want somebody to get the Aspire Atlantis in stock.

They're .5 ohm though...

 

[LadyPharaoh]

I never heard of or read anything bad about Vapeoutlet but do keep seeing a lot of negative stuff about VapeNW.
Oh well.....I just want somebody to get the Aspire Atlantis in stock.

Hey Lex! :::waves::: Good to see you.