Eleaf Istick

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r77r7r

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    The Ego has been dead, except for lack of a smaller more convienent device for vapers who couldn't or wouldn't build their own.
    The modder forum went bigger, VV, more power... The Ego got to slide along in the mainstream. The istick should not have taken this long to come to market.


    Highly agreed! The focus went to clearos and then mechs/rba's the last few years.
     

    ScandaLeX

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    Istick Leather Case

    Front

    20141208_174630_20141208_174809_zpsll47zdh7.jpg


    Back

    20141208_174711_20141208_174811_zpsirnprbbz.jpg


    I put the Lemo Drop on it & I think I just 'gasm'd!
    Flavor & vapor on a 1.0Ω coil KICKS!!!!!

    I'm like this right now :rickroll:
     

    aldenf

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    Now that's interesting... Thank's for sharing. I'm looking for a small RBA for my iStick. I also saw a mini Erlkoningin clone on Fasttech for 13 bucks or so. But I have no idea if comes with a larger (2mm) airflow hole. I hate tight draw... And I really don't want an 8 ml tank.

    How cute is that? :D

    $13.61 Mini RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (3.0ml) - acrylic + stainless steel / 20.5mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    The Erlk Nano would be brilliant on the iStick. My Erlkonigin clone wide open has about the same airflow as my ProTank2 w/AFC wide open. I haven't drilled the Erlk out to 2mm yet. Next rebuild. The Erlkonigin vapes great in the 10-13w (real watts. not Eleaf watts.) A 1.8ishΩ build performs wonderfully on the iStick.

    What interests me about the GS Air is its size would allow it to nest on my VTR too. I've been trying to collect attys that work well on all my mods. Now that I've picked up two Cloupor DNA 30 clones for $5 each, my VTR may see less use. I wasn't sure I'd like the Cloupor. It's barely a hair bigger than the new iPV Mini and vapes really well. My first non-PWM regulated mod.

    I also splurged on a second iStick (to replace the dead one). I went for the $21 deal from VapingMe on Thanksgiving weekend. Still waiting for it to ship, however.

    I was going to assemble my own DNA 40 mod. But with two working DNA 30 clones, I think I'll wait. I almost never have problems with dry-hits/burning since switching to rayon anyway. I am interested in Evolv's forthcoming DNA 25 though. I'm hoping it's perfect for transplanting into my dead iStick. At this point in my vaping life, 20-30w is plenty of power.

    Definitely looking forward to the new iStick. Its size is just so darned perfect. :)
     
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    I do have flavors that I do vape at 10-11 watts so this would not be a device for me. Hope everyone that picks one up is happy with it.

    With a number of flavors in the Tumblers I run down at 7w on many while some at 10w which would max the mini out. You can see where that would become an annoyance unless there was no Bending Adapter for the 20w version where the smaller size would have to be considered for carry on you all the time consideration. Then you buy two in case one wears down while out.

    $29.99 is insane! My most expensive istick only cost me $32.95 with shipping. Now, if they can get it below $20...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I find the full size priced up at $55 at some prices while Binging around the web! Since it's just out you can expect most places will have it priced at about MSRP by rule of thumb! When one vendor had a bargain going on the Nautilus that included the replacement glass section as well as two additional coils for $28 they announced Aspire want them to run it at the MSRP now seen for $45! That was after I was able to grab two more at the sale! Besides price shopping around can often save you mula $$$$!

    These batts seem to last longer than what they indicate in Mah terms. I used to vape@ 1500Mah a day and only go thru maybe half of this batt. Plus it charges Really fast!

    With a well needed adapter on and a 6ml tank, it sticks out of my shirt pocket too much now. A one-day batt with a one-day tank suits me fine.

    I'm in for the smaller one!!!



    Hey, can someone inform Eleaf that these aren't the shape of a stick, lol...

    For the one I carry on me I run with a Smok Tumbler at least until the Nautilus mini tanks get in this week. That allows the folding bracket to work out well for the watch type pocket on a regular pair of jeans when not wearing the carpenter style jeans with the extra deep pockets good for the Vamo or other 1300-2000mah batteries like the eGo-V V4 1300mah passthrough or Smok Aro Winder 2000mah. The VTR belt holster was a joke! and the MVP fits easily in the coat pocket but for warmer weather to come? or just walking around at home? Small tank on small mod seems to work! :laugh:

    My response was regarding the center pin of your tanks not making contact. An adapter doesn't always fix that problem but pulling the center pin out a lil bit makes the contact.

    Having adapters is good- you never knwo when you might need one. I need to organize mine again- I have too much stuff everywhere.

    If the Bending Adapter is on that solves the center pin problem with the spring loaded contact pin that has. I think Eleaf thought ahead a bit about that one when coming up with the folding bracket idea. With a Tumbler eGo threaded type tank on the one I carry with me the 510/eGo adapter of course is not an option. But I also put adapters at top of the Vamos and Smok ACEs to prevent the need to keep removing the eGo thread cover constantly wnen going to swap tanks.

    The Ego has been dead, except for lack of a smaller more convienent device for vapers who couldn't or wouldn't build their own.
    The modder forum went bigger, VV, more power... The Ego got to slide along in the mainstream. The istick should not have taken this long to come to market.

    I wouldn't say eGo batteries are dead by any means since I see people collecting them in all colors and designs! There are good number or people that prefer those over any high wattage stufff and certainly no RDAs for them. Here I have both the 1300mah eGo VV/VW batteries as well as the iTaste VV v3.0s all lined in the two mod stands with a different flavor in each tank! In each stand one battery will have the primary menthol flavor as well.

    Here I spend the first 3hrs. or so daily combatting allergies by vaping mostly menthol when starting the day off just to be able to function! Later I like having a selection of other flavors onhand. The new mods however provide another op for trying menthol out at higher wattages to take notes on if that will get the job sooner. I'm sure some good menthol clouds will suppress the Nose and sneezing!

    The regular eGo batteries are generally good for starters and for some ejuices best vaped on the cool side since they were out before the VV/VW days started and taste like ... when turning things up on them! blahhhhh... I've run into that enough times! The penomizers or clearomizers that look like writing pens with pocket clips on the cap that fastens onto that work well with the 350mah eGo mini batteries as well as ROCKET E-SAX led clearomizer since those won't take many volts.

    With the iStick now being a 20w mod some of those of course are out and the Tumbler doesn't fare well over 10w with 2ohm coils in that tank. The 2.4ohm will still run into some issues as well when turned. The max is about 4.2-4.3v.
     

    Heavyrocker

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    This might seem like a really stupid question…but how accurate is that little battery indicator on everyone's iStick?

    I bought mine on Friday night, and overall I'm pretty pleased with it. Out of the box, it looked like the battery was about 3/4 full (according to the little battery icon on the screen) so I vaped it for most of that night that I bought it, and a little in the morning, then used the passthrough some the next day while I worked on my laptop. Didn't really pay much attention, used it on and off all last night, woke up this morning and noticed that the battery icon looked low. The icon wasn't flashing, and it did not tell me it was time to charge, but the battery level looked like it was low, as in if that was the battery read on my phone I would go ahead and plug it in to charge. So I used it with the pass through while I was talking on the phone for a couple of hours, and while I know it was charging, the battery icon had not filled all the way up. When I unhooked it from the charger earlier, the battery icon looked like it did when I opened the box, which I had assumed was a partial charge. I took a couple of puffs off it, and I could literally see the battery icon drop a bar…which made it appear half full. It went back up after a few minutes of not using it, which I thought was a little odd.

    I am using an Orchid tank, 1.1 ohm coil, and right now I am vaping at 9.8w. I am still a relative newbie. I have to be out all day tomorrow, and I don't want the battery to die on me mid day. Am I doing something wrong with my coil and wattage setting that is super draining the battery? Is the little icon just not an accurate representation of how much life the battery has left? I have the iStick plugged into my laptop right now, occasionally vaping but not a lot, it has been charging for about two hours, and the battery icon is STILL not showing full. I keep hearing people talking about getting a full day or more out of the iStick, so I'm thinking either I'm not doing something right, the battery icon is just a suggestion, or I have a bad battery.

    Try a wall charger to give the batts a good boost,sometimes the USB on the computer charger is not that powerful.
     
    Couldn't agree more since a pc usb port on laptop or desktop is 3.3v while most chargers are 5v. Charging off of a pc usb port takes a bit longer since it is also operating at a lower amperage for supply. Speaking about 1000mA or 1A charging I decided to grab a portable charger here to more then just the alarm clock's single 5v port to charge things up with since I often have two or three batteries. mods, or batteies and mods going at once. Amazon.com: Jackery® Giant+ Premium Portable Charger Aluminum 12000mAh Power Pack and External Battery Bank with Dual USB Port for Apple iPhone, iPad, Samsung Galaxy, Nexus, LG, HTC (Orange): Cell Phones & Accessories
     

    dwcraig1

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    The rate of charge is determined by the charging board inside the Istick and will be in the area of 500 mah, you can plug it into a 2 amp source but it will still charge at the level determined by the internal charging board. By the way computer USB's are 5 volts, how are you going to charge a 4.2 volt battery with 3.3 volts? While this is possible with step up built into the charging board this doesn't have it
     

    Jingles

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    I think someone needs to go ahead and start that thread now. I nominate Jingles!

    I would start one, but I'm not sure that I will get one, and wouldn't I have to know all the technical stuff about it and where to buy it, etc.etc.. sounds like too much work for me. I work retail and it's December! Someone help me out here!
     

    aldenf

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    Couldn't agree more since a pc usb port on laptop or desktop is 3.3v while most chargers are 5v. Charging off of a pc usb port takes a bit longer since it is also operating at a lower amperage for supply. Speaking about 1000mA or 1A charging I decided to grab a portable charger here to more then just the alarm clock's single 5v port to charge things up with since I often have two or three batteries. mods, or batteies and mods going at once. Amazon.com: Jackery® Giant+ Premium Portable Charger Aluminum 12000mAh Power Pack and External Battery Bank with Dual USB Port for Apple iPhone, iPad, Samsung Galaxy, Nexus, LG, HTC (Orange): Cell Phones & Accessories

    Actually, from the beginning, USB 1.x supplied 5v @ UP TO 500mA. (http://esd.cs.ucr.edu/webres/usb11.pdf). To quote this article (How USB charging works, or how to avoid blowing up your smartphone | ExtremeTech:

    "A USB socket has four pins and and a USB cable has four wires. The inside pins carry data (D+ and D-), and the outside pins provide a 5-volt power supply. In terms of actual current (milliamps or mA), there are three kinds of USB port dictated by the current specs: a standard downstream port, a charging downstream port, and a dedicated charging port. The first two can be found on your computer (and should be labeled as such), and the third kind applies to “dumb” wall chargers. In the USB 1.0 and 2.0 specs, a standard downstream port is capable of delivering up to 500mA (0.5A); in USB 3.0, it moves up to 900mA (0.9A). The charging downstream and dedicated charging ports provide up to 1500mA (1.5A)... Now, this is what the spec dictates, but in actual fact there are plenty of USB chargers that break these specs — mostly the wall-wart variety. Apple’s iPad charger, for example, provides 2.1A at 5V; Amazon’s Kindle Fire charger outputs 1.8; and car chargers can output anything from 1A to 2.1A."

    In other words, 5v has always been the USB standard.

    This being said. You are correct that, until USB 3.x, computer charging has been much slower because of the maximum 500mA (2.5W) output. It didn't make much difference when we were using 900 mAh EGO batteries with chargers that only output 400-500mA. Now with 3000+mAh batteries and 1Ah chargers, it is a GREAT idea (almost a necessity) to have a dedicated 5V wall-wart or other dedicated USB charging system. I will not purchase a converter/charger with less than 1.5A output. It just doesn't make sense anymore. I have a cell phone, two tablets and 3 PVs that all use the USB standard to charge. The charger splits the output amongst the devices plugged into it. ie. A 1500mA (1.5A) charger, with two devices plugged in, outputs 750mA to each device.

    With all the devices in our lives today that require USB charging, consider purchasing something along the lines of these: (Amazon.com: charging station usb).
     

    aldenf

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    Cables also make a big difference.

    Great point, KTMRider! A cable that came with your PV, cell phone, tablet, etc is designed to carry higher current (amperage). Many USB cables are not designed to work with more than the 500mA spec and cost is not necessarily an indication of a cable's performance. If in doubt, walk into Radio Shack and ask the knowledgeable (hopefully) person behind the counter. You'll probably pay more for the cable (the Shack Tax). But you'll have an appropriate cable for the task that will allow your mod's built-in charger to work at it's maximum output, safely.
     

    jefsview

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    So, the "Year of the 26650" has turned into the "Year of the iStick [mini]". So many "mini's" hitting the marketplace trying to get a piece of the market share that Eleaf carved out. The Kamry looks about comparable in size, but Kamry's past efforts with regulated devices haven't been pretty :evil:

    And so here is Eleaf again, going the extra mile but cutting it's current flagship in half. But I think they missed the mark by not having a keychain ring attached to it :laugh:
     

    Katya

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    So, the "Year of the 26650" has turned into the "Year of the iStick [mini]". So many "mini's" hitting the marketplace trying to get a piece of the market share that Eleaf carved out. The Kamry looks about comparable in size, but Kamry's past efforts with regulated devices haven't been pretty :evil:

    And so here is Eleaf again, going the extra mile but cutting it's current flagship in half. But I think they missed the mark by not having a keychain ring attached to it :laugh:

    ;)

    They should have worked on their voltage output and the soft 510 connection instead, if you ask me... :p :facepalm:
     

    four2109

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    The eGo still outputs accurate voltage. You can safely use any topper, LR or not,single or dual coil, or a cartomizer, without risking a sudden death.

    There are modders forums and then there is the real world--people who want a plug-and-play safe device to help them quit smoking.

    Just sayin'...:)
    I'm not knocking the function of the Ego batt, just that this segment of the battery market didn't evolve for years. I can't remember when they came out, after the 510 run. I never cared for the form factor. I was using box mods then and more interested in juice feeds. I finally bought an 650 EGO-C in 2012 or 13. That was the first "commercial mod" I ever bought. It was OK and got me back off of analogs, bought a passthrough and a twist that I rarely used because they were too big. I was still carrying around extra stuff... fiddling with it....
    My point is that the istick and egrip are both long over due, and I don't know what took so long. Did someone just wake up the design and engineering department?
    I still prefer a cigalike with auto batt. Enter the Eroll 3x MEGA PCC.
    In the last 2 months I've bought 2 isticks, an Egrip, and a Mega PCC, and I love them all. I'm finally happy! Oh yeah, and 2 Eroll kits but that was just too good a deal to pass up for the parts.:)
    [/COLOR]

    Highly agreed! The focus went to clearos and then mechs/RBA's the last few years.
    Yeah, a lot of different directions, all at once. It was crazy.

    I never got into mechs. No interest either.
    LOL, Marketing hype. My first mod was a "mech". Made with a portable phone batt and loose hardware to fire that NJOY PRO atty.
     

    Katya

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    I'm not knocking the function of the Ego batt, just that this segment of the battery market didn't evolve for years. I can't remember when they came out, after the 510 run. I never cared for the form factor. I was using box mods then and more interested in juice feeds. I finally bought an 650 EGO-C in 2012 or 13. That was the first "commercial mod" I ever bought. It was OK and got me back off of analogs, bought a passthrough and a twist that I rarely used because they were too big. I was still carrying around extra stuff... fiddling with it....
    My point is that the istick and egrip are both long over due, and I don't know what took so long. Did someone just wake up the design and engineering department?
    I still prefer a cigalike with auto batt. Enter the Eroll 3x MEGA PCC.
    In the last 2 months I've bought 2 isticks, an Egrip, and a Mega PCC, and I love them all. I'm finally happy! Oh yeah, and 2 Eroll kits but that was just too good a deal to pass up for the parts.:)

    Yup. Somebody did fall asleep at the switch. Janty introduced first eGos in 2009--after Janty kiss and Janty stick. And then they fell asleep. But the eGos were underpowered and their MOSFET had problems--the circuit protection was designed to kill the battery in order to protect it from shorts. :facepalm: Then other (other than Joyetech) manufacturers introduced unregulated 3.7v eGo-class batteries (I had a Riva from East Mall). Then came the vv version and it was a game changer--and they fell asleep again. :D

    But it's still a very popular and good battery. But I agree with you in principle--the first guy who offers an accurate and solidly built small, affordable DNA box mod will eventually take over the entry-level market. The MVP 2 had a chance to do just that--and they blew it, IMO, because they didn't bother to redesign the battery--it's still too big, clumsy-looking and the button placement is terrible.
     

    Seleya

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    And you all thought the Istick was small :ohmy:

    [h=1]Eleaf iStick Mini - 10 watt[/h]The eleaf iStick mini is a 10 watt version of the original iStick by iSmoka Eleaf. It will be a perfect on go vapor device with a battery capacity of 1100mah . Unlike the the original full size istick the device it will have round OLED display on the top , just next to it 510 connector, which will display all the parameters. It is going to be a great stealth device, small enough to completely fit on palm. Order eleaf istick mini.
    Package Content:

    • 1 x Eleaf iStick Mini
    • 1 x eGo Connector
    • 1 x User Manual


    2PKtJCC.jpg


    33aEarh.jpg

    It's so tiny and incredibly cute! I want it just to look at. :wub:
     

    Kent C

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    Yup. Somebody did fall asleep at the switch. Janty introduced first eGos in 2009--after Janty kiss and Janty stick. And then they fell asleep. But the eGos were underpowered and their MOSFET had problems--the circuit protection was designed to kill the battery in order to protect it from shorts. :facepalm: Then other (other than Joyetech) manufacturers introduced unregulated 3.7v eGo-class batteries (I had a Riva from East Mall). Then came the vv version and it was a game changer--and they fell asleep again. :D

    But it's still a very popular and good battery. But I agree with you in principle--the first guy who offers an accurate and solidly built small, affordable DNA box mod will eventually take over the entry-level market. The MVP 2 had a chance to do just that--and they blew it, IMO, because they didn't bother to redesign the battery--it's still too big, clumsy-looking and the button placement is terrible.

    I always thought the regulated voltage of the Joye eGo's was an advantage - but that became clearer when there were more choices in coils/ohms. At first there was just regular (2.2Ω) and not too long after - LR. That was it. With the 'true 3.7V batts' of the SE Riva, you had the same voltage drop problem with mechs. And off the charger they would burn some flavors and later in the charge they were ok but you might still have a burned taste from the coil or the juice in tank.

    The 'constant mode' of the eGo-c upgrade is similar to a regulated mod, where the voltage stays the same for 90-95% of the charge. For me, with my flavors and choice of coils, that was a big plus. There are reasons why it became the biggest seller of ecigs and why it was copied, cloned by every major manufacturer and back room warehouses in Korea. :)

    That said, there are certain downsides - like if you're going to be out more than 4 hours and don't like to carry extra stuff. Battery life has never been a problem for me with Joye eGos - I've had some over two years... and the price is decent.
     
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