Eleaf Lemo II
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Personally enjoying the Lemo 2 and no real complaints. Running it in TC loaded with Ti 26 GA 5/4 2.6mm ID Coil.
It ain't "perfect" or the Idyllic Panacea that some seem to demand as a Basis of Judgment & Critique.
But, for what it is and is supposed to be (and for the Cost), close enough for this Vaper.
I give it One Thumb Up with the other on the Fire Button of the SX Mini M powering it.
Will order another when the Black Version comes out and trade this Silver one off.
It ain't "perfect" or the Idyllic Panacea that some seem to demand as a Basis of Judgment & Critique.
But, for what it is and is supposed to be (and for the Cost), close enough for this Vaper.
I give it One Thumb Up with the other on the Fire Button of the SX Mini M powering it.
Will order another when the Black Version comes out and trade this Silver one off.
None that I am aware of or can fid at this time. That may very well change as the popularity of this relatively new RTA will undoubtedly grow making developing such a Tube profitable for the Cpmpanies that make such Add-Ons.
You can always get a spare Pyrex Tube from Sources such as IBT Tanks (although they don't show available yet for the v2).
Or, you could get some Screen Protector Material for a Phone and cut to size then wrap the Tank with it as extra protection. 3M makes a Product for Vehicle Paint protection that is strong and clear that would work the same. That, in various size Stock, can be found online or at local Auto Zones and the like which would probably be even better stuff for this application.
Wrap the glass with that which would add strength to the Tube as well as hold it together if it did crack like a second skin.
Haven't seen any plastic tanks but I haven't looked either to be honest as I only use Pyrex tanks. I have however dropped mine and knocked them over several times and they are no worse for the experience.
If you go to fasttech.com and put in "Lemo" in the search box the first thing you find is replacement glass in singles or 5 packs and they are dirt cheap. I have two of those replacements (just in case) and they seem to be of high quality.
Enjoy!
Thanks for the suggestions! I've gone ahead an ordered the replacements from FastTech now so they'll be here in a few months when I actually need them. I also plan to look at applying a "screen protector" on the tank.
I don't drop my massive sigelei 150w often, but when I do, the earth rattles and tanks shatter.
Oh good stuff. After reading this thread I watched "rip tripper"s "pancake" wick theory and when I got home tonight gave it a whirl on my Lemo2.
I don't think I recall ever having juice run out my drip tip before let alone the air holes at the base. I must of done something wrong, however after some thought, all that is stopping the flow of juice out of the tank and into these areas is the negative pressure in the tank. To get to a "pancake" the juice would have to fill the bottom of the insides of the chamber and ether run up the walls (hopefully) into the pancake ends of the very short wick or (heaven forbid!) run right out the chimney or spill into the air hole in the bottom.
While I did take heed of the very loose fitting of cotton in the coil itself, after dousing myself twice (once air holes, once from the drip tip) with juice I emptied the tank with a syringe and stuffed cotton above the two seep holes and filled in between the "pancake" and the outside walls leaving a toothpick sized "divit" or well in the cotton along the wall edge leading to the seep holes. (much like I've always done)
Nice idea but likely bad execution on my part.
I don't think I recall ever having juice run out my drip tip before let alone the air holes at the base. I must of done something wrong, however after some thought, all that is stopping the flow of juice out of the tank and into these areas is the negative pressure in the tank. To get to a "pancake" the juice would have to fill the bottom of the insides of the chamber and ether run up the walls (hopefully) into the pancake ends of the very short wick or (heaven forbid!) run right out the chimney or spill into the air hole in the bottom.
While I did take heed of the very loose fitting of cotton in the coil itself, after dousing myself twice (once air holes, once from the drip tip) with juice I emptied the tank with a syringe and stuffed cotton above the two seep holes and filled in between the "pancake" and the outside walls leaving a toothpick sized "divit" or well in the cotton along the wall edge leading to the seep holes. (much like I've always done)
Nice idea but likely bad execution on my part.
Yep, the "pancake" method is great, assuming you don't mind a flood of expensive e-liquid running down the side of your mod.
I don't know what it was, but I couldn't get something right with my Lemo2. It never leaked, but I got a dry hit on ever other hit no matter how I wicked it. Eventually I dropped the tank and shattered the glass by trying to be cool and use the coil to make a make shift lighter for a friend of mine that smoked. I took that as a sign and bought a Zephyrus and haven't looked back. When the tank acted right it was awesome, but it was hard to wick it just right. The Zeph has been so much more forgiving.
I personally prefer my lemo 2 over my zeph. Maybe I just can't seem to get the wicking right on the zeph. The flavor has been pretty muted so far. My lemo has been fantastic though.
This sums up my experience with the Lemo 2 in one simple sentence.
I was the opposite. I feel like the Lemo was muted. I guess its hard for two people to have the exact same experience with the same product when you have to build the coil yourself.
For the zeph, I build my coils as big as I possibly can fit into the RBA section. With .4 ohms I keep mine around 38w and it produces fairly large clouds and I get tons of flavor.
Same here no problems at all. For those looking for a bottle that will work with the fill port.
Nicotine Labs - Bottles - Eflavor Bottles
These should work. I have 2 tips that look like these and they fit on the juice bottles I have. Think I'm going to get a 10 pack.
Hey Guys.
I can't remove the 510 connector pin from the airflow portion. I've tried and tried, using hot water, then using cold water, using rubber on both sides, but I can't get them apart. I don't want to use wrenches or anything like that because I don't want to warp or bend the portions.
Has anyone had this issue and if so, can you please help me? I really need to separate the two so I can do some cleaning and also get it so the airflow ring has some resistance. As for now, the airflow ring is very lose and moves very easily.Sn
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
-ghostin
I can't remove the 510 connector pin from the airflow portion. I've tried and tried, using hot water, then using cold water, using rubber on both sides, but I can't get them apart. I don't want to use wrenches or anything like that because I don't want to warp or bend the portions.
Has anyone had this issue and if so, can you please help me? I really need to separate the two so I can do some cleaning and also get it so the airflow ring has some resistance. As for now, the airflow ring is very lose and moves very easily.Sn
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
-ghostin
Soak in hot water for 5 mins and then try twisting apart with rubber gloves. If it still doesn't budge, try taping both with electrical tape (at least 2 layers) and using a couple of pliers.
Seconding the freezer method. Had to do that with a stuck lock ring on a mech once or twice, works like a charm
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