Eleaf Lemo II
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To each their own, I don't see the purpose in it. I'd rather have a solid positive connection all the way up to the deck personally. My only interest in this tank was for nickel builds, but that two piece base kills it for me.
They are also recommending you don't build below 0.3 ohm as per that last video for fear of melting the insulator. Not sure if the temp control of a nickel build negates that, or not.
If it makes you feel better, the current lemo has the same design, and has been the single most stable platform for all my Ni200 builds.
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If you're using a regulated mod, it doesn't matter how low or high your build is, or whether it's kanthal or nickel. All that matters is how much wattage you push and consequently the temperature of the coil.
You could dump a 0.15 ohm build in it and push 7 watts and it wouldn't come close to melting the insulator.
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Cool man, yeah, I know they work fine, I've got the OG lemo. I was just hoping for a better connection on the lemo 2 when I saw it was 22mm with AFC ring, I thought, sweet, no janky airflow/hybrid onto an evic 2 piece base, but I was wrong.
Heh, assuming it can step down like a ..... I was at a B&M today, somebody brought in their dna30 and an Atlantis and claimed they were using it at 10w.
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The three I have now work flawlessly with ni200 now, not really worried I'll have any issues with the L2. I'm in!
Cool man, yeah, I know they work fine, I've got the OG lemo. I was just hoping for a better connection on the lemo 2 when I saw it was 22mm with AFC ring, I thought, sweet, no janky airflow/hybrid onto an evic 2 piece base, but I was wrong.
Heh, assuming it can step down like a ..... I was at a B&M today, somebody brought in their dna30 and an Atlantis and claimed they were using it at 10w.
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If he likes thin and wispy, he's good to go right!!
I pre ordered mine this morning
If this sob whistles I'm going to turn it into a 10ga slug.
If this sob whistles I'm going to turn it into a 10ga slug.
What resistance are the atlantis BVC coils? I only run about 13 watts with a 1.4 spaced build in my Lemo Drop. Anything more than 15 watts the vape feels too hot, or I have issues with burnt wick & boiling juice using the 100% VG juice I buy.
I hated my lemo for the ni200 builds. it worked for a while but then it started jumping all over. messing with the 510 screw(both of them) changed .... but it never remained stable. I tried the o-ring tricks and .... but it never worked properly again.
I build pleeeenty of nickel builds(that night I rebuild like 7 RBAs with nickel) but the lemo was this only one that was having issues.
I hate the fact that the bottom comes off. too many times has the bottom piece stuck to my mod and I would have to get pliers. or the bottom piece would not get off the tank section and I would have to shove a drill bit in a AF hole and more pliers.
I HATE how smooth the lemo is. no grip for when something gets stuck
You use pliers to remove it ? How hard do you tighten it down in the first place?
I can unscrew entire Lemo of my box mod by turning top section of the tank. It helps if you regularly keep the 510 threads clean on the tank and the Mod.
There's more to it than just wattage, such as heat flux, surface area, and airflow. If it were just wattage, then temperature control would have been solved a long time ago.
In any case, I really wish there was a way to engineer an insulator that wont melt even under very high temps.
Heh, assuming it can step down like a ..... I was at a B&M today, somebody brought in their dna30 and an Atlantis and claimed they were using it at 10w.
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AH yes yes I totally forgot about that since I only use dna40 devices these days. My bad my bad. My point was more that wattage rather than resistance is key. Yup!
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Not all the time but sometimes. every thing gets stuck. I essentially hate all these tanks with fifty bajillion pieces.
I always seem to get everything stuck. I don't even over tighten it. just till it's snug. worst thing is most of the times I can't even get the bloody tank open. because it's so smooth I can't get a proper grip so after like 15 minutes yelling and hating life I get a plier put it in the top hole, tighten it and use a drill bit in a AF hole as leverage and then it pops off easy.
or sometimes when the shimney gets stuck(smallest bit especially) urgh it's a pain in the .... my billow has less issues because the top and bottom has grooves so I have something to grip onto. Other than that it's a great little tank. thinking of getting the full size to replace my drop(since it's all ....ed up from having to use pliers) but now I don't know. I might wait for the V2.
It doesnt need to be snug, just turn it till it stops when you screw it on.
It helps if you keep the tank and hands clean from juice. Something i see a lot in build videos and a person uses dry paper towel to clean it. Wet paper towel does a much better job removing juice from mods and hands. Something ive been doing since i started vaping, saved me many headaches you are having.
well I mean that. spin it with my finger tips till it stops. it's not like I am MANHANDLING IT BEING ALL "GET SNUG U SCRUB"
wet paper towels. mmm. never tried that. maybe next sunday when I rebuild and rewick everything again. but then again it has happened before with perfectly clean non juicey hands and atty
Never had those problems with any of my Lemo's, well except for the lower chimney until I lapped both ends of the lower chimney to ensure they were flat.
Another tip is lube all o-rings and mating surfaces with a little juice before screwing everything back together, no need to go primeval on torque just snug everything together, bottom 510 cap, never had problem with any of mine, however I don't see the need for a 2 piece on the L2, it would be better if it was a machined one piece.
Another tip is lube all o-rings and mating surfaces with a little juice before screwing everything back together, no need to go primeval on torque just snug everything together, bottom 510 cap, never had problem with any of mine, however I don't see the need for a 2 piece on the L2, it would be better if it was a machined one piece.
I have 2 Lemos and a Lemo Drop. Had the full sized tanks for a few months and picked up a Drop more recently. Never had any problems with my regular tanks until I decided to pull all 3 apart the day the Drop arrived and put some new builds in them. I got muted flavor from the Drop and declining performance from my full sized tanks. I couldn't figure it out.
Then, I read the instruction manual on a whim...I had been skirting by, assembling the full size tanks incorrectly for a few months and getting away with it.
When I pull the Lemos apart, the chimney top always wants to come off with the top cap. I assumed that was intended. Turns out, there's extra threading through the top cap (I assume to adjust for larger o rings). The chimney top can become over tightened in the top cap and throw the vacuum way out of whack.
After wicking, it has to be assembled chimney -- > chimney top -- > then glass -- and finally top cap
I'm sure most of you know this, but I thought I would leave it here in case some of those struggling with the Lemo are experiencing inexplicably poor performance. In my case, none of them were visibly apparent, so it's something to think about the next time you throw a new build together.
Then, I read the instruction manual on a whim...I had been skirting by, assembling the full size tanks incorrectly for a few months and getting away with it.
When I pull the Lemos apart, the chimney top always wants to come off with the top cap. I assumed that was intended. Turns out, there's extra threading through the top cap (I assume to adjust for larger o rings). The chimney top can become over tightened in the top cap and throw the vacuum way out of whack.
After wicking, it has to be assembled chimney -- > chimney top -- > then glass -- and finally top cap
I'm sure most of you know this, but I thought I would leave it here in case some of those struggling with the Lemo are experiencing inexplicably poor performance. In my case, none of them were visibly apparent, so it's something to think about the next time you throw a new build together.
Many thanks. I assumed the same all this while and never felt good about the vacuum, despite various attempts at adjusting the airflow. I just reassembled my unit as per your suggestion, noting that the gap between the chimney and the chimney top is gone/sealed. What an awesome difference in vape-effect! Thanks again.
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