Eleaf Lemo II

Status
Not open for further replies.

Mad Scientist

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 11, 2013
1,359
2,052
Smokestack, PA, USA
Nice!
What Address should I send my Top to? ;)

Lol -- you can do it. I used a drill press set to its highest speed with the diamond burr, but a dremel tool will do the same job if you have steady hands and good eyesight. My only caution is don't go too deep into the hole. The part of the top cap that seals with the oring on the chimney top is in line with the top of the existing slot. If you go too deep in the enlarged hole, the oring probably won't seal anymore and that's the end of that.
 

Bikenstein

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 9, 2014
5,759
19,510
The Lab
As promised, I made the top fill hole the way it should have been from day 1. A diamond burr and some water made short work of it. I also discovered the top cap is chrome plated brass.

View attachment 469738
Thanks for the pic and tips. I had thought of doin this but thought it was ss. More like a brushed nickel plate, I guess. A carbon bit will do the trick on it. Gotta do mine now
 

HolmanGT

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 2, 2013
3,545
5,329
81
St. George, UT USA
Thanks for the pic and tips. I had thought of doin this but thought it was ss. More like a brushed nickel plate, I guess. A carbon bit will do the trick on it. Gotta do mine now

Danger young Will Robinson... if you leave a bur on the inside of the ring you may end up chewing up the seal on the inside of the ring and losing the air tight seal.

I just use one of the plastic bottles with either the long thin plastic tips or the ones that come the the metal tips.
 

cricque

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
My Lemo 2 was leaking a lot. I just redid the wick with some graham cellucotton I still had here. I cut the wick to just above the chimney tucked it down. Filled it up standing up and for the first time I am seeing bubbles and no leaking at all ... So far so good, but it seems to be doing well. Haven't used it much due to the leaking, but I saw it as a conquest to get it working right. I like the flavor I put in using a 0.4mm/2,5mm spacing for 0.81 ohms and I like it. Now waiting on my titanium wire to arrive to test it out with temperature control, the ni200 wire isn't my thing so far
 

KTMRider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2014
4,538
18,079
NJ
USPS strikes again. Looks like delivery is tomorrow (hopefully).

11208129_876627472372798_887137386_n.jpg
 

Bikenstein

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 9, 2014
5,759
19,510
The Lab
Danger young Will Robinson... if you leave a bur on the inside of the ring you may end up chewing up the seal on the inside of the ring and losing the air tight seal.

I just use one of the plastic bottles with either the long thin plastic tips or the ones that come the the metal tips.
Thanks for the warning. But besides years of experience with a burr bit and 90 grinder on boiler tubes and pipe, I have several years of machine shop management with hands on precision de-burring of many parts of various materials. I'll probably use my mill drill and finish with a fine file . You do have a good point though :)
 

cricque

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Try a 3mm coil. The extra wick might help block the leaking.

I gave it a try with 3mm, also with 3,5 mm, but either i am getting dry burns or i get juise. Just need to find the right amount.
I had some time today, and already rewicked/coild it 5-6 times today, I'll get the hang of it

Now on my other rta's i never had leaking, or almost none, even my orchid was working from the first go :)
 

HolmanGT

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 2, 2013
3,545
5,329
81
St. George, UT USA
I gave it a try with 3mm, also with 3,5 mm, but either i am getting dry burns or i get juise. Just need to find the right amount.
I had some time today, and already rewicked/coild it 5-6 times today, I'll get the hang of it

Now on my other rta's i never had leaking, or almost none, even my orchid was working from the first go :)

cricque,

"Leaking" doesn't really say much about what you are actually experiencing. Where is it leaking from, when does it leak, does it ever stop, what PG/VG ratio and what is your wick material? Also are you closing off your air flow to some degree?

Mine will leak at times and depending on your answers I will tell you what I experience and how to solve most of it... I hope. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mad Scientist

m00shie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 4, 2015
2,153
441
Malaysia
I've been using the Lemo II for awhile and I find the leaking is due to lack of pressure in the tank. Make sure the top and bottom orings are correct.

In terms of wicking, as wire a number of people comment in this thread, just make sure your wick tails are hanging slightly above the base for the juice to pool below the base and also that it's not blocking the juice inlet. I never have any dry hits with this method
 
  • Like
Reactions: cricque

cricque

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
cricque,

"Leaking" doesn't really say much about what you are actually experiencing. Where is it leaking from, when does it leak, does it ever stop, what PG/VG ratio and what is your wick material? Also are you closing off your air flow to some degree?

Mine will leak at times and depending on your answers I will tell you what I experience and how to solve most of it... I hope. ;)

I have tried "Tami Cloth", Muji cotton, KGD, Graham cellucotton.
For the leaking part: I get juice coming out of the airflow channel. It's not that is is pooring out. Sometimes it only starts when I take a couple of puffs. Replaced all the orings already also
Been using 45% PG + 45% + 10% distilled water from Inawera. Been using this type of base for quite a long time.

I also have tried filling it straight up, 45 degree angle. Tried holding the drip tip hole with my finger. Stuffed a drip tip with all cotton.
Yet another build coming up :)
 

HolmanGT

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 2, 2013
3,545
5,329
81
St. George, UT USA
I have tried "Tami Cloth", Muji cotton, KGD, Graham cellucotton.
For the leaking part: I get juice coming out of the airflow channel. It's not that is is pooring out. Sometimes it only starts when I take a couple of puffs. Replaced all the orings already also
Been using 45% PG + 45% + 10% distilled water from Inawera. Been using this type of base for quite a long time.

I also have tried filling it straight up, 45 degree angle. Tried holding the drip tip hole with my finger. Stuffed a drip tip with all cotton.
Yet another build coming up :)

cricque,

OK i'll start this with a statement that will cause me to get flamed but I am used to it. Any top fill tank I have ever used leaked for one reason or another including my newer Fogger when the came out with top fill. I mean think about it no vacuum bubble in the top of the tank equals absolutely nothing to prevent the liquid from entering the air port and dribbling out the side vents.

I use plenty of wick in fact I use a 4.5 ID coil with rayon. I trim the rayon to almost touch the bottom deck by the juice ports but absolutely not covering the juice ports. I do this and the large diameter to obtain the best wicking action possible - nothing to do with the leaking.

Now for the leaking. It will leak when you fill it and generally more when the tank is not completely empty. The more juice in the tank when you fill the worse the problem. I don't try to deal or find a work around for this inherent problem with top fill tanks.

What I do is close the air port have my syringe filled and ready to go. The I open the top port and fill the tank shutting off the top fill port just as soon as the tank is filled. Then I let it stand vertical for a minute or two allowing the juice that has gotten into the air port to drain down.

Then I open the bottom air port and set the Atty horizontal on a paper towel with one one of the air slits pointing straight down which allows the juice in the air channel to drain out. This usually clears it very well. Then I take a few pretty heavy pulls on the atty powered up just as you normally would. This usually clears any remaining liquid from the entire air channel.

From then on I am usually leak free. There is one more problem to watch out for. When going from cool indoor temps to hot outside temp you may get a little juice expansion so I carry a tissue and if I notice any juice at the bottom air slits I will tip the unit and use the tissue to suck up any juice that has accumulated.

I know it sounds like a lot of trouble but I swear anyone that tells you that top fill tanks don't have this problem is not being truthful or has just been lucky as He!!.

That is my two cents on the issue and for Ni200 or Titanium I wouldn't give up my lemo 2s for anything except the original Lemo if they would improve the air flow on them.

Good Luck
 

cricque

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
cricque,


I use plenty of wick in fact I use a 4.5 ID coil with rayon. I trim the rayon to almost touch the bottom deck by the juice ports but absolutely not covering the juice ports. I do this and the large diameter to obtain the best wicking action possible - nothing to do with the leaking.

Good Luck

A nice post and readup, but this does the trick. As m00shi also mentioned, trim the wick to just above.
Already vaped more then half a tank and nothing coming out so far, no dry hits, good flavor/airflow. Gonna put it down for now and vape on my subtank for the rest of the evening
And i'll see if something comes out or not

My main plain still was use the lemo 2 at home/work with TC, and when I am really out my old trusty subtank
 

Boden

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Sep 7, 2012
5,516
28,164
Lexington KY
cricque,

OK i'll start this with a statement that will cause me to get flamed but I am used to it. Any top fill tank I have ever used leaked for one reason or another including my newer Fogger when the came out with top fill. I mean think about it no vacuum bubble in the top of the tank equals absolutely nothing to prevent the liquid from entering the air port and dribbling out the side vents.

I use plenty of wick in fact I use a 4.5 ID coil with rayon. I trim the rayon to almost touch the bottom deck by the juice ports but absolutely not covering the juice ports. I do this and the large diameter to obtain the best wicking action possible - nothing to do with the leaking.

Now for the leaking. It will leak when you fill it and generally more when the tank is not completely empty. The more juice in the tank when you fill the worse the problem. I don't try to deal or find a work around for this inherent problem with top fill tanks.

What I do is close the air port have my syringe filled and ready to go. The I open the top port and fill the tank shutting off the top fill port just as soon as the tank is filled. Then I let it stand vertical for a minute or two allowing the juice that has gotten into the air port to drain down.

Then I open the bottom air port and set the Atty horizontal on a paper towel with one one of the air slits pointing straight down which allows the juice in the air channel to drain out. This usually clears it very well. Then I take a few pretty heavy pulls on the atty powered up just as you normally would. This usually clears any remaining liquid from the entire air channel.

From then on I am usually leak free. There is one more problem to watch out for. When going from cool indoor temps to hot outside temp you may get a little juice expansion so I carry a tissue and if I notice any juice at the bottom air slits I will tip the unit and use the tissue to suck up any juice that has accumulated.

I know it sounds like a lot of trouble but I swear anyone that tells you that top fill tanks don't have this problem is not being truthful or has just been lucky as He!!.

That is my two cents on the issue and for Ni200 or Titanium I wouldn't give up my lemo 2s for anything except the original Lemo if they would improve the air flow on them.

Good Luck

You are exactly right on all points.

Top fill without juice flow control is inherently flawed. If it is wicked right it will flood, if it is over wicked it won't flood right away. You'll get dry hits until the negative pressure is high enough to pull air past the wick tails then it will flood. After that flood it will go back to dry hits. 20goto10
 

KTMRider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2014
4,538
18,079
NJ
No leaks or flooding on any of my 7 KF v4's :p

Just got my Lemo 2. I did a quick wash (dawn and hot water) as usual. I wanted to try the stock coil since I've never really tried a single kanthal coil under 1Ω. Filled it on its side as recommended and no leaks. The coil read .52Ω when I put it on my Hana mini clone with a DNA40 and VT 510. It's settled down to .51Ω. I tried it at 20w, 25w, 30w and 35w. It seems to work best at 25w, afc wide open and lung hits. I don't know how you guys can vape at 35w+. I'm not really a lung hitter but it doesn't work very well MTL. I'm sure it's because of the coil. When I finish this tank, I'll throw on a Ni200 build (7 spaced wraps, 3mm ID, 28g).

I bought a few extra KF v4 drip tips and replaced the silly drip tip that came with it. With lung hits, this thing chucks clouds and gulps juice. I haven't had any gurgling but it seems like there's always air bubbles coming out of the juice channels. Did anyone get cotton pads with theirs? Mine came with it rather than the cotton balls I've seen in reviews.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 52anddone
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread