Genuine battery meter issues are largely related to the quality of the connections between the battery and the board. When the board wakes up, it does not initially display the instantaneous battery metering. As with past Evolv boards, upon wakeup sometimes the sensors throw false readings. The DNA40 also only reads under load.
Evolv Technology Owners Discussion Thread
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Genuine battery meter issues are largely related to the quality of the connections between the battery and the board. When the board wakes up, it does not initially display the instantaneous battery metering. As with past Evolv boards, upon wakeup sometimes the sensors throw false readings. The DNA40 also only reads under load.
My gas tank has that same problem but only when I am at least 75 miles from a gas station.
lol
I put it on a multi-meter just now it's about 3.6-3.7v fluctuates. I'm just going to try to drain it and see if it drops on it's own. If it doesn't it may kill the battery but that's on them if it does. I don't see how this would be working as intended but I'll try it. Currently vaping at 16w on a 470 degree .16 TC coil it's lasted forever I'll give it that.
If that's the case then I'm sure it will inhibit some form of taste/battery degradation from vaping or the meter will magically start working as the gas tank goes dry, I dunno we'll see...
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"J", You don't have to vape it hard it will start to drop eventually and for me it works out to be 4 to 6 hours notice once it starts to move down.
Isn't the ring on the fire button supposed to light up while charging..? Thought the large firing button was LED lights (blue for firing, red for charging, green when fully charged),
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Yeah, that is what I see too. When the battery gets down to 3.2v the board will finally tell me the battery is low and not fire.
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That puzzles me too usually my mods even if they're at 99% the mod will usually attempt to charge there is no way in hell it's not somewhere around 50%.
I hope so man, I really want to believe! I'd rather it work than have to return it that's for sure! I'll leave it be and see what happens.
That's what I've been reading for the past few minutes it just seems weird I guess I'll have to wait and see.
From my reading about them...the fire button has LED lights (blue for firing, red for charging, green when fully charged), He said he wasn't getting any light while charging...
I mean it could think it's full it's just suspicious that it won't charge at all right now. It was charging this morning so I know it does take a charge.
retird,
I don't know why you keep directing this question about charging lights at me. If I owned a rDNA I would know but I don't so I don't know what their charger circuit is supposed to do.
So you got a red light while charging in the morning and now have no red light while charging? If ya vaped it for 10 hours at work it should take a charge...
retird,
I don't know why you keep directing this question about charging lights at me. If I owned a rDNA I would know but I don't so I don't know what their charger circuit is supposed to do.
I thought ya had one... only reason I asked...
Well it didn't take a charge after I took out the battery to get a voltage reading on the battery, but it seems to light up now so I dunno more weirdness. I know the port has been fine (so far) as for the meter that's a different story. I'm getting a light on both the wired and wireless charger. I'm not going to charge it though I want to know how long it takes until it drains, furthermore I want to know how long I have from the point where it shows a not full battery to completely empty (that's a big one)!
From what I understand and from pictures the switches and usb charger go thru the "daughter board"
Sure buddy, intermittent jumps between voltage and TC mode with the slightest 510 contact issues, Battery Indicator jumping to empty, screen scrambling
My experience:
Had three DNA30 wired with 20G with some strands trimmed to fit in the board contact holes. I replaced all three with DNA40s leaving the original wire intact on the mod, snipping the wire from the boards and re-soldering on the DNA40s. All three were having intermittent issues, and it was suggested to replace the 20G with18G, still some strand trimming to stuff in the board contact holes for soldering (all Gold contact DNAs). All three worked much better (still the occasional Deans contact issues, but that's another issue)
Thanks for the info.....haven't had any of those issues yet except a contact issue between the 510 and the 510 of the topper....clean center pins and all is well again... but will keep a eye out...I've got 40/25 mods built with 18G, 20G, and 22G.... gold and non-gold boards... THX...
Please let us know what ya come up with....
Plugged in the mod I used yesterday to the charger this morning.... It was used for 17 hours and battery meter was at 1/4 when I put it on to charge. I don't run mine down to cutoff...
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