Favorite Genesis wick?
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I have an Origen Genesis v2 arriving today, and it will be my first go at a genny. I picked up some 400 mesh to give a proper go at a classic genny style setup.
I'm curious if anyone else has any personal experience with one. I'm reading that there are different ways to build a mesh wick, I've seen one with a smaller inner hole at the bottom with a larger diameter straw style for the rest, the cinnamon roll on mentioned in this thread, etc. Anyone recommend a specific style mesh wick for the OriGenny?
Also, I personally don't use mech mods, and always see videos of people pulsing the coil on a mech...I should be fine pulsing using any of my VW/VV mods I assume, correct?
I feel completely noob when it comes to gennies (I love my RTAs personally) and feel goofy asking some of these questions, but I really just want to make sure I set it up properly.
I'm curious if anyone else has any personal experience with one. I'm reading that there are different ways to build a mesh wick, I've seen one with a smaller inner hole at the bottom with a larger diameter straw style for the rest, the cinnamon roll on mentioned in this thread, etc. Anyone recommend a specific style mesh wick for the OriGenny?
Also, I personally don't use mech mods, and always see videos of people pulsing the coil on a mech...I should be fine pulsing using any of my VW/VV mods I assume, correct?
I feel completely noob when it comes to gennies (I love my RTAs personally) and feel goofy asking some of these questions, but I really just want to make sure I set it up properly.
While I don't have personal experience with the Origen V2, setting up just about any genny is going to be about the same.
I generally will roll my wick around a 18 gauge blunt needle leaving the small hole down the center of the wick, though I've also rolled a solid wick in the past with pretty good results. You may need to just play around with different types to see what's easiest for you to make and what gives you sufficient wicking for your coil and power level. I'd try the straw and solid wicks first as I think those are easiest to roll.
You may or may not be able to pulse the coil using a regulated mod. The issue that you'll run in to there is that you're pulsing the coil to remove shorts with the wick, so especially for the first several pulses your mod may be seeing a load that's too low in resistance for it to fire. Using a mech gets rid of the low resistance protection, and since the shorts are occurring for <1 second there really isn't any danger to your battery.
This is my understanding at least, someone can correct me if I'm off.
I generally will roll my wick around a 18 gauge blunt needle leaving the small hole down the center of the wick, though I've also rolled a solid wick in the past with pretty good results. You may need to just play around with different types to see what's easiest for you to make and what gives you sufficient wicking for your coil and power level. I'd try the straw and solid wicks first as I think those are easiest to roll.
You may or may not be able to pulse the coil using a regulated mod. The issue that you'll run in to there is that you're pulsing the coil to remove shorts with the wick, so especially for the first several pulses your mod may be seeing a load that's too low in resistance for it to fire. Using a mech gets rid of the low resistance protection, and since the shorts are occurring for <1 second there really isn't any danger to your battery.
This is my understanding at least, someone can correct me if I'm off.
Ask away! Gennies can be finnicky to learn so there are no excessive or stupid questions.
I don't have any experience with that specific model. Seems popular, so I'm sure you'll get some insight.
It can be a PITA to pulse out mesh wicks with VV/VW mod. It is doable, tho. Easier if you oxidize your wick a bit ... uh... more. Which I guess is completely unquantifiable for both of us.
Initially it's all about getting something working. Don't get me wrong, but your first few setups are not extremely likely to be very excellent. I wouldn't bother trying for anything fancy. Straw or solid or fancy wick doesn't matter that much during the learning phase. It's more about the outside than the inside. That is coil contact. Which you need to be somewhat perfect. Not tight, but certainly not too loose. You need contact all the way. I err on the tight side, but that could be hard with a VV mod.
Edit: Beat me to it!
I don't have any experience with that specific model. Seems popular, so I'm sure you'll get some insight.
It can be a PITA to pulse out mesh wicks with VV/VW mod. It is doable, tho. Easier if you oxidize your wick a bit ... uh... more. Which I guess is completely unquantifiable for both of us.
Initially it's all about getting something working. Don't get me wrong, but your first few setups are not extremely likely to be very excellent. I wouldn't bother trying for anything fancy. Straw or solid or fancy wick doesn't matter that much during the learning phase. It's more about the outside than the inside. That is coil contact. Which you need to be somewhat perfect. Not tight, but certainly not too loose. You need contact all the way. I err on the tight side, but that could be hard with a VV mod.
Edit: Beat me to it!
Believe it or not, there is an ooooold RipTrippers video, before he went all MTV on us, that gives a great tutorial on gennnys.
As Wattwick said, its something that you have to work at.
I agree that torching your wick isnt needed, but others get results.
Personally, I build the coil around a drill bit that fit my wick hole - 3/32 does nicely for most. I remove the drill bit when done, leaving a free standing coil.
Then I roll and insert the wick.
Then i dismount the whole wick\coil together, with the screws still in it.
Then I torch ONLY the coil area. I hit it three times.
Mount and pulse, dismount the wick.
I fill the tank before I put in the wick.
Insert the wick\coil, watch how it wicks. It needs to be saturated top to bottom in less than 15 secs, the faster the better.
Now I pulse it.
Its a learning curve, but its worth it.
The best advice I can give is this -
If that wick doesnt saturate quickly, re roll it.
Also, dont fight hot legs, if you get one, make another coil.
Redacted
*edited to add step
As Wattwick said, its something that you have to work at.
I agree that torching your wick isnt needed, but others get results.
Personally, I build the coil around a drill bit that fit my wick hole - 3/32 does nicely for most. I remove the drill bit when done, leaving a free standing coil.
Then I roll and insert the wick.
Then i dismount the whole wick\coil together, with the screws still in it.
Then I torch ONLY the coil area. I hit it three times.
Mount and pulse, dismount the wick.
I fill the tank before I put in the wick.
Insert the wick\coil, watch how it wicks. It needs to be saturated top to bottom in less than 15 secs, the faster the better.
Now I pulse it.
Its a learning curve, but its worth it.
The best advice I can give is this -
If that wick doesnt saturate quickly, re roll it.
Also, dont fight hot legs, if you get one, make another coil.
Redacted
*edited to add step
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you fill, then pulse????????
To me that is completely ... backwards. and SOOOOOO much more work.
but if it works for you.. have at it.
To me that is completely ... backwards. and SOOOOOO much more work.
but if it works for you.. have at it.
I kind of do both?
1) Build coil, mount and insert rolled wick.
2) Pulse to eliminate shorts until the coil glows evenly from center out.
3) Fill tank and wet wick.
4) Pulse again (maybe this wouldn't be considered "pulsing") to double check for hot spots and legs.
For me step #2 eliminates electrical shorts, and step #4 helps with physical contact issues between the wick and coil.
1) Build coil, mount and insert rolled wick.
2) Pulse to eliminate shorts until the coil glows evenly from center out.
3) Fill tank and wet wick.
4) Pulse again (maybe this wouldn't be considered "pulsing") to double check for hot spots and legs.
For me step #2 eliminates electrical shorts, and step #4 helps with physical contact issues between the wick and coil.
I skipped a step, sorry
yes, I remount, pulse, dismount, fill, watch the wick saturate, then pulse again for hotspots/legs.
It is more work, what with the extra mounting, but these wicks/coils last forever, so it's really not an issue for me.
To me, other than hotspots/legs, the wick saturation rate is the most important thing
Looks like Onyx and I have a similar approach
.
My thoughts exactly. Just torch, roll, torch, wrap, test fire, adjust and vape.
I always torch. It's quick and eliminates the need to "pulse" to oxidize. You're doing the exact same thing by pulsing.... Why not just torch the top 1/4 where you'll wrap and be done with it?
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Exactly, Snowblind.
I am just very careful about how fast my wick saturates.
Also, pulsing is still a step I use - even after torching. I have rarely wrapped a coil that didnt need it
Redacted
I am just very careful about how fast my wick saturates.
Also, pulsing is still a step I use - even after torching. I have rarely wrapped a coil that didnt need it
Redacted
SS mesh 200 for supreme wicking. All of you using cotton should try 200. I went from 400 to 325 to 200... i can no tilt wick max VG in something as small as a Sat with no dry hits at all... ever.
Cotton belongs in RDAs and RTAs ladies and gents
Ive been using 200 mesh for several years. Too bad some are hesitant to try mesh, most that do won't use anything else
^ one more, and also one more waiting on an Origen Genesis in the mail.. pulled the trigger partly based on good reports here, mostly because I love my Origen V2 RDA.
People mention using a mesh with 'with a spike' - is the spike what this guy is rolling? http://youtu.be/TUuGmchIZuw?t=2m12s
If so, what is that part designed to do?
People mention using a mesh with 'with a spike' - is the spike what this guy is rolling? http://youtu.be/TUuGmchIZuw?t=2m12s
If so, what is that part designed to do?
that is a paper clip.................
it just makes it easier to roll the mesh.
it just makes it easier to roll the mesh.
A little bit back in the video, the mesh he uses has one corner cut out, leaving a thick L shape. So when he rolls it, the end is thinner than the body (not talking about the paperclip). Looks like this:
----=========
----=========
That's a common variation of the "wick-in-wick" methods of mesh rolling. I've messed around with it but only found a difference when i went a bit further and did a "conical" hollow wick.
Picture the unrolled mesh like this quick MSpaint i did below
<Width=desired thickness of wick/diameter of wick hole> <Height=length of wick so it almost touches bottom of tank to just above highest coil wrap>
When this is wrapped (right to left) you get a wick that is solid at the top portion above the deck where the coil is wrapped and conically hollow beneath the deck... this really soaks/wicks juice well... just a little bit less that a full straw wick. I'll use this when i have juices with less VG or just higher resistance builds.
You can also fill the "missing bottom corner" with some KGD cotton... black/white outline in the pic above..(flat, cut perfectly to fit missing corner a few mils thick) and roll the wick again from right to left giving you a 3/4 cotton core to your SS wick.
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yeah, the "L" shaped wicks..... some people swear by the method.... I think it makes no real difference, if you just roll it properly and trim the bottom at an angle.
C'est la vie.
SnowBlind, dude... that is just WAY too much work for a wick. Over-complicate things much?
C'est la vie.
SnowBlind, dude... that is just WAY too much work for a wick. Over-complicate things much?
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Lol oh i know man.. i rock a thin straw wick. I've just done loads of "fun" builds too when i've gotten bored. It actually performs crazy good... esp when getting to the last bits of your tank... the cotton will absorb it and hold it to be transfered by the heat of the wick/coil...
But yes... just wrap a functional, 2 minute straw wick of 200 (personal pref) and be done.
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