fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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NamVet68

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If it is the cobra clone that I have then it's like a brass material, it flakes when drilling it exactly like brass does (I drilled through it) but the cap is stainless. About the only thing I like about the whole atty is the center post, nothing else is nice, even the clear "plastic" tank is warped in moulding, the outside is smooth but the inside is bulged on one side almost like they rolled it up when it was hot to join it...

That's the problem with a lot of DID/Cobra clones....you never really know what you will get. If you look on Ali Baba - there are literally hundreds of different "Stainless Steel" clones being manufactured in China....they all look similar, but there are many slight variations, and the quality of some are questionable. It's interesting that there aren't a lot of people in the States actually importing the stainless versions however - the most common ones you see here are the chromed brass DID clones.

I'm going to have to run out there soon and just buy one of those to see how well they are made. They are cheap enough. I could just order one, but I always prefer to buy face-to-face if possible. I can be out at his shop in about an hour - it's just out of the way for me.... maybe in the next day or two...
 
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Elias

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Yep - there's a guy here in Florida who sells a Cobra clone in Stainless steel. I believe its about 5/8" in diameter. I don't have one myself , but I've been in his shop & I saw it first hand and it looks pretty good...price its right also. I don't really know if it can be drilled out to 1/8 easily though... If you have questions about it - give him a call or send him an email - seemed like a nice guy and ready to help.

I was out there for Bike Week & only had time to look around for a few minutes, but I'll probably pick one up the next time I'm in that area.

DID / Cobra Clone Stainless Steel Rebuildable Atomizer [901_SS] : L Js E-Smokes, Electronic Cigarettes

Good luck..

I now verified that the link above is the clone I have ( well actually I have 3 of them ) one I bored out to 1/8th here is the image

like I said in previous posts (I like the center post thats all) the original hole is tiny, so thin, so not useable with ceramic in its original form its not funny, its not all stainless, only the top is stainless, the body is something like brass, the center post is soft like alloy and using just multi grips with a rag around it I still scratched it, so it is not stainless either, the cap is excessively large and thick, does not need that size thickness, I have 1 brand new in the box, and the 16mm version as well, if you want I will take close up images of it all right now and post it for you, but let me explain that I dont like it, I prefer my AGA-T without a question of a doubt.

the images below is after it is bored out to 3.5mm (so the 1/8th wick has room to move)

CuttingItClose01.jpgCuttingItClose02.jpgCuttingItClose03.jpgCuttingItClose04.jpgit works 01.jpg
 

ricks

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Can they make a tank that has threads in it? The AGA-S's tank has threads top and bottom.
if you are looking at the aga-s, then I am sure you can get one with a glass tank for it. I bought a glass tank for my aga from ibtanked, fits perfect and ran about 10-bucks
 

ricks

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So this is the Cobra Clone? The base where the wick hole is definatly not S/S? I'm looking for an RBA that will be about the same size as my Rider Robust and be able to make the wick hole 1/8". I love all the larger RBA's but I need one around 5/8" in diameter.
I now verified that the link above is the clone I have ( well actually I have 3 of them ) one I bored out to 1/8th here is the image

like I said in previous posts (I like the center post thats all) the original hole is tiny, so thin, so not useable with ceramic in its original form its not funny, its not all stainless, only the top is stainless, the body is something like brass, the center post is soft like alloy and using just multi grips with a rag around it I still scratched it, so it is not stainless either, the cap is excessively large and thick, does not need that size thickness, I have 1 brand new in the box, and the 16mm version as well, if you want I will take close up images of it all right now and post it for you, but let me explain that I dont like it, I prefer my AGA-T without a question of a doubt.

the images below is after it is bored out to 3.5mm (so the 1/8th wick has room to move)

View attachment 197793View attachment 197794View attachment 197795View attachment 197796View attachment 197797
 

Hello World

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I am going to attempt to drill my ZAP to accomidate the 1/8 " wick a bit better for a looser fit, so I don't screw this up what size would you people recommend?
I only want to do this once...just sayin.
If you succeed without damaging it, let me know, as I would also like to take mine up to 9/64. My calculations indicate the bore will hit through the pos. post wall and cause leakage, flooding down through the 510. Also the cap's O-ring seat might get nicked. Myself, I would just sand the wick's shaft down to 7/64 through the wickhole using an 1/8 FC-2000.

Something like the Pic below. Little cap roof clearance on the ZAP, so any reservoir is out of the question.

AGA-T2 - Diagram.jpg
 
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NamVet68

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I am going to attempt to drill my ZAP to accomidate the 1/8 " wick a bit better for a looser fit, so I don't screw this up what size would you people recommend?
I only want to do this once...just sayin.

If it were mine, I'd just take it out to a diameter that will not interfere with the tank or the center post (probably 1/8 if you are careful), and then just make the hole slightly oval in shape by rocking the drill bit, or preferably, with a Dremel (toward the sides where you have room).

I've modified a couple of DID clones with the oval wick holes, and they work great. If you go that route though - just don't overdo it. You only need a few hundredths of an inch to allow air & juice exchange around the wick hole.

Remember - the object of this exercise is to give the juice an avenue to "crawl" up the wick (capillary action) and allow free air exchange between the tank & the upper deck. The hole doesn't need to be perfectly round. That's really the concept with the new FC2000 slotted wicks -accomplishes the same purpose. If you plan on using the new slotted wicks, this probably won't be necessary....as long as it fits in the hole- you are good to go...



Good luck.
 
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NamVet68

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I just got my DID mini clones and drilled one out to 1/8" and it came out good. Mine is chrome plated brass.

View attachment 197826View attachment 197827View attachment 197828

I've got two of the identical DID clones & bored them to 1/8 as well. A drill press makes life a lot easier for this kind of stuff - even the cheapo type you clamp your existing drill into. The decks on these are just plated brass, so they are very easy to drill out.

The clearances are pretty tight, but if you make sure you drill the holes straight in, you won't hit either the tank or the center post (it WILL be close though!).

In addition, I made the wick holes just SLIGHTLY oval with a Dremel & a diamond burr (just a couple of hundredths toward the sides with the most room). Even though my 1/8 inch wicks fit very snugly, there's plenty of wicking & air exchange. Neither one leaks, and they both work extremely well.
 
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NamVet68

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Well, after seeing the results of Dan's cross-cut wick (slotted) I just had to tear down my RSST & give it a try. I have the 3.2mm bushing back in & built a 1/8 fishstick, and tried to cut three slots - no dice (how the hell did he do that??). Ended up cutting just two slots about 90 degrees apart. not pretty, but this is only a test....

I wrapped them with a thread of cheesecloth & then a tight 4/5 wrap of .1X.5 Ribbon Kanthal right on the atty. Got a 1.8 Ω coil, and after pulsing the coil to burn the cotton fibers off - got this:

Slotted.jpg

As you can see; nice even glow & NO hotspots - even though the grooves in my wick are pretty wide. One of my concerns with a slotted wick was that there might be some issues with hot-spots where the wick did not touch the coil....doesn't seem to be a problem at all, but I'll keep an eye on that as it continues to break in and develop some crud on the surface.

GREAT vapor from first pull, and pretty nice flavors right off the bat (even running Gorilla Juice- 100% VG). My only concern at this point is that if I lay it on its side, the juice runs out the wick hole....probably putting the fill-plug in may help in that regard, but as I said- my slots in the wick are far larger than they should be. If I could somehow get them as small as the ones that Dan was showing in his wick, I doubt that this would be an issue.

BTW - no vape-lag either - instant on. It heats up like a much smaller wick.

If the new slotted FC2000 works this well, it will definitely be a game-changer.

EDIT: I put the silicon fill-hole plug in & it eliminated a majority of the wick-hole leaking when placed on its side, and still wicks like a champ....it's almost OVER-wicking. Smaller slots should be the ticket though, I'm just too ham-handed to cut them that fine at this point.
 
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vapdivrr

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Well, after seeing the results of Dan's cross-cut wick (slotted) I just had to tear down my RSST & give it a try. I have the 3.2mm bushing back in & built a 1/8 fishstick, and tried to cut three slots - no dice (how the hell did he do that??). Ended up cutting just two slots about 90 degrees apart. not pretty, but this is only a test....

I wrapped them with a thread of cheesecloth & then a tight 4/5 wrap of .1X.5 Ribbon Kanthal right on the atty. Got a 1.8 Ω coil, and after pulsing the coil to burn the cotton fibers off - got this:

View attachment 197965

As you can see; nice even glow & NO hotspots - even though the grooves in my wick are pretty wide. One of my concerns with a slotted wick was that there might be some issues with hot-spots where the wick did not touch the coil....doesn't seem to be a problem at all, but I'll keep an eye on that as it continues to break in and develop some crud on the surface.

GREAT vapor from first pull, and pretty nice flavors right off the bat (even running Gorilla Juice- 100% VG). My only concern at this point is that if I lay it on its side, the juice runs out the wick hole....probably putting the fill-plug in may help in that regard, but as I said- my slots in the wick are far larger than they should be. If I could somehow get them as small as the ones that Dan was showing in his wick, I doubt that this would be an issue.

BTW - no vape-lag either - instant on. It heats up like a much smaller wick.

If the new slotted FC2000 works this well, it will definitely be a game-changer.

EDIT: I put the silicon fill-hole plug in & it eliminated a majority of the wick-hole leaking when placed on its side, and still wicks like a champ....it's almost OVER-wicking. Smaller slots should be the ticket though, I'm just too ham-handed to cut them that fine at this point.

i made it for the double century page, anyways i believe the slots in the fc-wicks are done as they mold them, although i guess dan had cut his before this process. and as for a game changer, da-man did say his results were night and day.
 
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vapdivrr

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I am going to attempt to drill my ZAP to accomidate the 1/8 " wick a bit better for a looser fit, so I don't screw this up what size would you people recommend?
I only want to do this once...just sayin.

have you tried to insert a 1/8 drill bit into the stock hole to see how much difference there is? i dont own a zap but i would think a 1/8 bit would work. maybe if you inserted the bit into the hole underneath you would be able to see if it would work, or if there is actually more space so you can go to 9/64.
 

FrogHat

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have you tried to insert a 1/8 drill bit into the stock hole to see how much difference there is? i dont own a zap but i would think a 1/8 bit would work. maybe if you inserted the bit into the hole underneath you would be able to see if it would work, or if there is actually more space so you can go to 9/64.

I was looking for suggestions....I believe I'll be the Ginny Pig which is no problem....those 3/8 wicks are fragile as hell, the 1/8 wicks are easier to work with. I know for a fact it needs a little wiggle room the flavor isn't were it needs to be and with the restricted air flow it just compounds the problem.....of course this is just my opinion :)
 

Railrust

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Well I just got my ceramic wicks in....I boiled them 2 mins and changed out the water and boiled them again for 2 mins. and then put them in straight VG were they sit right now. I knew my man VAPdivrr had this thread and I have been reading through it and you guys went over my head...hot wrap? grooves? German wicks? Zen wicks? Wow I think I will take my AC9 and my RSST and just wrap it with my 8mm ribbon wire and go for it. These babies are expensive and I waited a long time to get some. Vap..besides not breaking them what is the most important thing to watch with these? I like to wrap my coil off the RBA...made some really good coils that I will be tearing down for this...:(
 
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