fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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pAth77

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After vaping about 3mL on my first coil (4/3 of 32g), I decided to rebuild using my usual 3/2 of 30g, which comes in at 0.9-1.0ohm. I was getting dry hits on the second rip, but that only lasted for a very short time...about a third of the tank. It seems as though the higher wattage is breaking in the wick faster. Wicking and vapor production is almost on par with my SS setups, and the flavor wins hands down. I'm thinking that I may just forgo using 32g on my other RBAs since the ceramics seem to be breaking in faster with the 30g.
 

vapdivrr

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hey dsmooch, are you using your provari or caravela with the did? i have been using my aga w/ provari. its been working good, for the most part with the provari, but every so often i get like a mis hit, like the wick is over wicking, so i have to play around with the angle, or just release the button and re-press again. so i have it on my mechaincal mod now and this is not happening at all. so it seems that its not the wick doing this, but the mod. very strange, what do you think? i wonder if the provari can detect heat? like because of the ceramic, which maintanes more heat, that the provari senses this and kind of cuts it off for a second. i doubt this but thats what it feels like.
 

vapdivrr

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After vaping about 3mL on my first coil (4/3 of 32g), I decided to rebuild using my usual 3/2 of 30g, which comes in at 0.9-1.0ohm. I was getting dry hits on the second rip, but that only lasted for a very short time...about a third of the tank. It seems as though the higher wattage is breaking in the wick faster. Wicking and vapor production is almost on par with my SS setups, and the flavor wins hands down. I'm thinking that I may just forgo using 32g on my other RBAs since the ceramics seem to be breaking in faster with the 30g.

thats kind of what i was thinking, once i put the 30g on it, it seemed to work better. wait my friend it only gets much better. mine keeps getting better, or so it seems, after days. once you are getting these results, and the wick really gets going, my bet is that next week you will find it hard to go back to ss mesh. i didnt realise the difference till i did a side by side comparison. now when i try to vape my ac-9(which is still set-up with ss mesh) its difficult, for now i can taste a slight metalic taste on the very end of the vape that i never tasted before. yes totally agree with you, i think that the inital set-up on one of these wicks should be 30g. when i get my 1/8 wicks i will try the 28g, but for now i do not know how the 28g works on these, i suppose they would do ok, as 28g imo is the best wire to use in any set-up.
 

Keithhe

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thats kind of what i was thinking, once i put the 30g on it, it seemed to work better. wait my friend it only gets much better. mine keeps getting better, or so it seems, after days. once you are getting these results, and the wick really gets going, my bet is that next week you will find it hard to go back to ss mesh. i didnt realise the difference till i did a side by side comparison. now when i try to vape my ac-9(which is still set-up with ss mesh) its difficult, for now i can taste a slight metalic taste on the very end of the vape that i never tasted before. yes totally agree with you, i think that the inital set-up on one of these wicks should be 30g. when i get my 1/8 wicks i will try the 28g, but for now i do not know how the 28g works on these, i suppose they would do ok, as 28g imo is the best wire to use in any set-up.

The "haves" teasing the "havenots" AGAIN !!!! :)
 

DSmooch

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hey dsmooch, are you using your provari or caravela with the did? i have been using my aga w/ provari. its been working good, for the most part with the provari, but every so often i get like a mis hit, like the wick is over wicking, so i have to play around with the angle, or just release the button and re-press again. so i have it on my mechaincal mod now and this is not happening at all. so it seems that its not the wick doing this, but the mod. very strange, what do you think? i wonder if the provari can detect heat? like because of the ceramic, which maintanes more heat, that the provari senses this and kind of cuts it off for a second. i doubt this but thats what it feels like.
have u cleaned the brass contact of the pro lately?

edit: I don't use vv anymore bro and the Pro is so big.. its a precious measure instrument though...
 
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DSmooch

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After vaping about 3mL on my first coil (4/3 of 32g), I decided to rebuild using my usual 3/2 of 30g, which comes in at 0.9-1.0ohm. I was getting dry hits on the second rip, but that only lasted for a very short time...about a third of the tank. It seems as though the higher wattage is breaking in the wick faster. Wicking and vapor production is almost on par with my SS setups, and the flavor wins hands down. I'm thinking that I may just forgo using 32g on my other RBAs since the ceramics seem to be breaking in faster with the 30g.

exactly...
 

vapdivrr

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have u cleaned the brass contact of the pro lately?

edit: I don't use vv anymore bro and the Pro is so big.. its a precious measure instrument though...
very well possible as far the contacts, for it has been a while. it is very true that for when my caravela arrives my provari will see alot less vaping time. the mechanical mod i have now is kind of cheap, chrome contacts and most of my gennys need a 510 to 510 adapter to work, it just looks wrong with those adapters.
 

MikeE3

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quit the slap in the face for sure. you know if he had just showed the end shot, like after it was coiled, i would have mixed feelings about your initial assumption, because its hard to actually see where the end of the wick is. but in the shot where he first dropped it in, there is no question that the wick he was using is by far longer then 1-1/2 in lenght.

I'm wondering if some of the 1st run fc-2000's were longer. I'm a co-op for 'em, and originally we were told the were long enough to get 2 wicks per piece. The a couple weeks ago, that was changed to the size that seem to be shipping now. The co-op manager was told the long ones were to fragile for shipping. Don't know - just something I heard.
 

MikeA5

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I just got the FC2000 1/8" ceramic wicks in the mail today. They came in a small vial. So I unwrapped the paper they came in and put them back and filled the vial with 100% pure VG (no Nic). I'm going to let them soak for a few days before I try one in one of my DID's. I have a DID and a Short DID not sure yet which one I'll use yet but it should be interesting. Crossing my fingers.
 

90proof

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I got my 1/8 wicks today. 5/6 wrap 32g wire on my DID. i did have to drill out the hole but it was simple to do. Im running it on my homemade 5v pass through with no dry hits yet. I tried it on my lavatube at 6 volts on a fresh battery no problem. I prefer the taste over the ss mesh, but still not as perfect as a great atty. That being said, this will be my main vape for now, Good flavor/vapor production. Ill update after I run 2 tanks of juice through it, also about the 3rd I want to change over juices and see how long it takes for the new flavor to kick in correctly. My hope is that each wick last a good amount of time as to offset the current cost, because I am cheap.
 

MikeE3

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oops! Not good! Was taking the cap off to check the coil and pulled it off at an angle and tapped the wick - SNAP! Amazing that it still worked 'kinda OK' even when it was broken (well until I pulled it up anyway). Thank goodness it was my 33 cents per wick DIY Fishstick.

IMG_1141-Version2_zps646cae25.jpg


Better!

IMG_1142_zps795a19a3.jpg


Ok - my poor experience with the FC-2000 was mainly operator error. Third times a charm. First 2 attempts I used the drill bit method for doing the coil. This time I hand wrapped it w/ a 3/4 wrap of 30g Kanthal for 1.5Ωs. It worked well right from the start up. I get good vapor production and taste is fine. Only a 1/2 tank into it, but even at the angle in the picture I can only get about 7 seconds before the coils begin to glow. A vertical 'burn' is a little less and it starts to glow. The coils seem pretty snug, even when glowing they're not easy to move and the wick has been soaking in the tank for a couple days so it should be well saturated by this time. I'll see how it's going after a tank or two.
 

vapdivrr

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oops! Not good! Was taking the cap off to check the coil and pulled it off at an angle and tapped the wick - SNAP! Amazing that it still worked 'kinda OK' even when it was broken (well until I pulled it up anyway). Thank goodness it was my 33 cents per wick DIY Fishstick.

IMG_1141-Version2_zps646cae25.jpg


Better!

IMG_1142_zps795a19a3.jpg


Ok - my poor experience with the FC-2000 was mainly operator error. Third times a charm. First 2 attempts I used the drill bit method for doing the coil. This time I hand wrapped it w/ a 3/4 wrap of 30g Kanthal for 1.5Ωs. It worked well right from the start up. I get good vapor production and taste is fine. Only a 1/2 tank into it, but even at the angle in the picture I can only get about 7 seconds before the coils begin to glow. A vertical 'burn' is a little less and it starts to glow. The coils seem pretty snug, even when glowing they're not easy to move and the wick has been soaking in the tank for a couple days so it should be well saturated by this time. I'll see how it's going after a tank or two.

thanks for the update on wick. from what i have just heard its not exactly that the wicks themselves have to break in, its the connection of the wire. in a regular ss mesh wick the wick itself is nice and round so the colis are making good contact with it, and in time its better because of maybe a carbon build up between the coils and wick. now in a ceramic wick, its not that round and there are voids within the surface, this creates a very irregular surface. so when attempting to wrap it, you will wind up with much more gaps between the wick and coil copared to ss mesh. so this break in period from what i have heard is just the time it takes for those gaps to be filled up. so it may not be the actual wick itself having to be broke in, but a build up of stuff to close the gaps. so now rip trippers new video makes sense to me in the fact that he is saying, that with a few strands of unbleached, food grade cheesecloth, wrapped around the wick(just where the coils are) will help the break in period to almost zero. if you were to buy some of this cheese cloth you just get one thread of it, it litterally looks like and is the same size as a piece of thread, this thread will be a few inches long, and just wrap the end of the wick. so if you were or have been having issues with getting the coils tight enough for the ceramic this will help, and also will help to get instant results.
 

calpis

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I'm wondering if some of the 1st run fc-2000's were longer. I'm a co-op for 'em, and originally we were told the were long enough to get 2 wicks per piece. The a couple weeks ago, that was changed to the size that seem to be shipping now. The co-op manager was told the long ones were to fragile for shipping. Don't know - just something I heard.

If you're talking about the afpv coop then what was said was that the 3/32nd wicks were too fragile at the original length at 1.75", so they had to be reduced to 1.5". Their 1/8" wicks will still be 1.75".
 

FrogHat

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thanks for the update on wick. from what i have just heard its not exactly that the wicks themselves have to break in, its the connection of the wire. in a regular ss mesh wick the wick itself is nice and round so the colis are making good contact with it, and in time its better because of maybe a carbon build up between the coils and wick. now in a ceramic wick, its not that round and there are voids within the surface, this creates a very irregular surface. so when attempting to wrap it, you will wind up with much more gaps between the wick and coil copared to ss mesh. so this break in period from what i have heard is just the time it takes for those gaps to be filled up. so it may not be the actual wick itself having to be broke in, but a build up of stuff to close the gaps. so now rip trippers new video makes sense to me in the fact that he is saying, that with a few strands of unbleached, food grade cheesecloth, wrapped around the wick(just where the coils are) will help the break in period to almost zero. if you were to buy some of this cheese cloth you just get one thread of it, it litterally looks like and is the same size as a piece of thread, this thread will be a few inches long, and just wrap the end of the wick. so if you were or have been having issues with getting the coils tight enough for the ceramic this will help, and also will help to get instant results.

And if this is the case....then what you said about the flavor change being instantaneous makes sense now.
 
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