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hey buddy, this ceramic is indeed very sweet, and am glad to hear you managed to get these results so quickly. what genny did you set up initially? what diameter wick was installed in this device? also, this is the first such good results for this specific type of ceramic wick on this thread. good job. i really do not have that much experience with ceramic, for this is really the first week for me, but i have been researching ceramic for some time, and the only thing i can remember reading about the fish ones were the possibilities of clogs. now this might have been just one post, so i am really not sure. but i think this is definatly promising, we have awesome flavor, vapor production, and no issues of shorts, the next thing to see is just how long these can go.
no , we were talking about an issue he had last night, so i was asking how it went.
i know these wicks really do not sustain a vertical burn like ss mesh, but for me personally, i dont vape it vertical, so this really doent matter to much. as we speak i am vaping in the 4 o'clock position (which is about my norm) and the wick is keeping up with no problems. so with this being said, i dont think this wick is wicking or working because the juice is running up the outside of the wick, for i think this couldnt happen in this position. my wick is indeed wicking, just like ss mesh. the only difference is that the ceramic gets so much hotter then ss and holds this heat, that in turn drys out the wick if held upright. this is how i see it anyways.
maybe once, or if you get this wick working good in the zap you can try some 26g wire? i have never tried the 26g myself but might solve this issue if the ceramic can ultimatly handle such a wire.
Yep I get that and mine "wicks" as well. But, there is a lot of available surface area on the outside of the wick that allows capillary movement of fluid. If the wick is tight and the air gap around the base of the wick gets progressively blocked through build up over time (as is my experience due to the snug fit and high temperature between the wick and the hole) the considerable outer surface area path is blocked and you are relying totally on the internal tracks for juice to find a way to the top. Additionally, You cannot quickly wet the wick by tilting the way you can if you have a little space. I know this stuff is largely subjective and I am not trying to be difficult and I am no scientist, but this is my logic measured against my own experience with a tight wick in the ZAP.
Cheers.
that does make sense as well, and to be honest it would be really difficult to see if the juice is making its way on the outside anyways, so like you said its really all a guess to be honest. with this being said, it does definatly work better with more of a full tank.
My initial setup was on an AGA-T and I followed the tutorials that you and Rip offered up - big thanks for that. No clogs so far with the fish sticks - just one day in use. As far as prep, I rinsed them (one for the aga and another for the dud) under hot water for a couple of minutes and then torched them to a glow, let cool and proceeded to install. I haven't measured the diameter, but continued to grind them down until they easily slid into the wick hole. Given your success with the smaller FC wick in your aga, I made sure that there was some wiggle room. All I can say is that the flavor and vapor production improvement over ss is significant. I just did this today so if these continue to improve, I'm liable to set off my smoke alarms in the house!
awesome, with the fc-wicks the vapor and flavor improves greatly with more time, but as far as the fishsticks i really dont know, i never have tried those ones, but from what i have heard in general about ceramic is that for sure the results will get much better after quite a few tanks. we all are really not sure what is the difference between the 2 types of ceramic wicks, so i guess time will tell. but im like you in the fact that i am just loving everything about the ceramic, its by far imo a much better vape.. i had said before, a few days ago i tried a ss set-up that i had not vaped in days and after a few vapes i had to put it away. i used to think ss mesh was the sh_ _, but now i can actually taste the metal in the wick.
Agreed. Like i said, the first install was on the aga, and it was great right off the bat. My Griffin was still set up with ss, and when I tried it after the aga with ceramic, I immediately trimmed down the second wick I made to fit it and replaced the ss. It's not producing quite as well as the aga (yet) but still improved over the ss.
I sanded that puppy down, put a new coil on @2.0 ohms
and now I am breaking this in all over again. I'll get there. I too wish I had 3/32 I would use it in a heartbeat.Don't want to sound like a problem child....Just trying to get it right....I have nothing but time
I sanded that puppy down, put a new coil on @2.0 ohms
Don't want to sound like a problem child....Just trying to get it right....I have nothing but time
i am rooting for ya, hope it goes good. last thing, if still no results after a day or so, try the cloth or if you cant get it, the gauze. gauze should work almost as good, and its safe. just try not to burn all of it off before vaping
I have high hopes, I know this works I'm just a victim of the larger wick......I will post again tomorrow.
I also think if the outside of the wick is in any way restricted by the wick-hole, travel slows down, since up-flow along the sides is likely faster than going entirely internal. I have 3 AGA-T2 & ceramic 1/8s coming and will risk wasting one drilling a 4mm, 9/64 hole to see if that theory bears out. Since 1/8 is a wider highway than 3/32, it doesn't make sense that it couldn't take the juice up any faster.
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OK Guys / Gals, I work for a company that deal with carbon / ceramic / stainless and glass in water products, I noticed that someone mentioned the white ceramic earlier, the problem is that porous white ceramic is generally made to filter down to the chlorine level and will even remove food coloring from water similar to carbon (which we cant use for obvious conductive reasons), this doesnt stop at the surface but penetrates right into the material until such point that it is clogged and needs replacing. This unfortunately will not be good for more than a couple of tanks and in the process will remove the flavor and leave you with nothing thicker than the consistency of water.
I was going to try and play around with porous glass to see how good it would be... but the problem that I would face (as it was explained to me) is the instant you put heat to it it cracks due to expansion of liquid into gas (I was told that porous glass has a vary large surface area equivalent something like 250 sq meters to 1 square centimeter but it does wicks extremely well) so its back to the ceramic "air stones" as far as tests are concerned for me the porousness is such that it doesnt "filter" and the strength is such that it doesnt crack due to gas expansion.'
Elias
I was going to try and play around with porous glass to see how good it would be... but the problem that I would face (as it was explained to me) is the instant you put heat to it it cracks due to expansion of liquid into gas (I was told that porous glass has a vary large surface area equivalent something like 250 sq meters to 1 square centimeter but it does wicks extremely well) so its back to the ceramic "air stones" as far as tests are concerned for me the porousness is such that it doesnt "filter" and the strength is such that it doesnt crack due to gas expansion.'
Elias
Heh thats exactly what I was thinking and is what I am doing to my AGA-T2, I also have 1/8ths coming (probably Monday if all goes well) and thought exactly the same way but I was going to drill it just slightly larger than the wick but not to 4mm I think 4mm maybe too much? I was going to try smaller and increase if needed just dont want juice to just fall out I want it to wick out. One thing for sure is that there is plenty of room on the AGA-T2 to enlarge the hole....
currently on my stainless wicks I have more coil at the bottom and less coil at the top of my wicks so that it heat up more evenly, it not by much but still.... I was curious to see if the same would be for the ceramic wick when I install it, I was also thinking that maybe I might sacrifice one wick and make a groove in it so that the coil sits into the wick (kind of like a reverse carto) I might name that groove the "EliasG Groove" lol its going to be some really fine work using my dremel with some fine diamond tips and carefully marking it out with a 4-5 wrap hmmmm I'll let you all know how it works out....
Just a word of caution on the room with the AGA T2. If you look at the hole from underneath you will see that it is very close the the space where the center post goes. I think most people are just managing to increase it to 1/8th but that is right on the limit.
I could have sworn there was much more room, I must look closer....
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