As stated many times.....these wraps need to be almost perfect to perform great.
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Not very efficient cutting, but I got 18 roughs out of a 6" topfin I bought a week ago. Should be able to get at least 30, if not more. That should do me for a while. Now for the Michelangelo work ...
If there is going to be a "Next time", I'm going to pre-cut the length with a 10" concrete roof tile angle grinder. Would have saved some time.
If there is going to be a "Next time", I'm going to pre-cut the length with a 10" concrete roof tile angle grinder. Would have saved some time.
The 545-Diamond-Wheel is better, you get way more stix. I tried the 1 3/4" wheel yesterday, not happy with it. Also the shanks on those larger wheels tend to bend at higher RPMs.
I hold the 6" topfin in my hand, dip it into a cup every 10 seconds of cutting. The water does help, does make the cut much more buttery.
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i am sure if i were to give the fish sticks a go my wet saw would make very quick work of all this. if anyone who is giving this stuff a go and wanted to send me the rod, i would be happy to cut them down to whatever size they wanted. i have my saw set-up a couple of times a week, this cut down of the stone would probably take me 1 minute to do.
Without calculating cutting the 37-40mm long sections off the Topfin cylinder (which I would do with a commercial angle grinder), it took about 45 minutes to cut all the roughs. Goes very fast with that little 454 Dremel wheel. Just a heads-up.
It would probably cost less to buy Topfin bubblestones from your local PETSMART than pay for the shipping costs to you. They are only about $5 - $6 for a 6-incher. Not a bad idea at all ... sell rough-cuts by the baggy of a dozen or even 25.
I don't know how much your blade eats away, but the 545 diamond wheel only takes 1.2mm max. My angle grinder would eat at least 3mm per cut, and might not leave much stone left -- I was thinking about doing that too ... but it eats too much of the stone.
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usually cutting tile or stone i would say that the blade would cut away about 1/8 in. when i dry cut tile or stone the blade is the same width but cutting dry usually will eat a tiny bit more. i never have made any wicks and didnt think that the width of the blade would make much of a difference, but i guess compared to a thinner blade you could get a few more roughs, but being that the stone is so cheap and so much cheaper then buying them, that getting a few less roughs wouldnt matter to most. but i guess the stone isnt as big as i am imagining it is to start, so maybe you need to get as many as possible.
Half a tank gone on the one piece, full length ceramic, getting nice clouds but not too much flavor yet. I am noticeing a quicker loss of batt. power, could be the older batts. Even w/32k the coil seems to take a bit to reach temp., so far, so good.
Half a tank gone on the one piece, full length ceramic, getting nice clouds but not too much flavor yet. I am noticeing a quicker loss of batt. power, could be the older batts. Even w/32k the coil seems to take a bit to reach temp., so far, so good.
is this a comparison between your own fs and the fc2000?
20mm diameter. On 8 slices you are losing minimally around 26mm on the circumference to the saw-cut, 37mm left for 8 strips, with 4.5mm each strip on the outside ... it's tight, but doable if your clamping and cuts are precise for a total of 24 roughs. The little 545 dremel will do about 32 - 36. There is also a good chance that the stone won't take the vice/clamping pressure after they've been chopped into 4 strips. It's a small world when compared to tiles, ground or roof ... lol
The roughs would also have to be cut in such a manner that the end user can easily form a wick without having to shave away as much as half an inch.
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Personally I think that the cheapest way is best, if I end up only making 4 wicks from a $2 fish stick then Im happy with that, rather than changing discs so I can make 8
It wouldnt bother me spending $20 on a single disc if it means I can cut and cut and cut, if I loose 50% of the material cutting then so be it...
Just saying...
Elias
Ceramic Wicks: How Justified Is the Hype? - Vape Squad | Vape Squad
Just been posted on a local forum. a few troubling question marks...
Just been posted on a local forum. a few troubling question marks...
Interesting article, but I think some of their concerns are misguided. If you've followed Dan's research (and others), yes, some of the air-stones that were considered initially were definitely not suitable for our purposes... just subjecting them to a flame confirmed the fact that they were made with fused plastics, or something else. They either fell apart, or turned into a charred mess within a few seconds.
The Top Fin air-stones most of us are using now are safe to use with Salt Water fish. If you've ever kept salt-water fish you know how sensitive they are to any contaminants in their environment (especially anemones), so I highly doubt the stones contain any of the stuff they are concerned about - specifically lead. Anything that is salt-water rated cannot contain any lead at all - SW Fish are especially sensitive to it. I may be off-base, and I have no scientific proof of this, but I feel pretty safe to assume that if you can use it in a salt water habitat, it's safe to use in our application - as long as you get all the ceramic dust off of the wick - that's why it's a good idea to either boil and/or use an ultrasonic cleaner before you put it to use.
Who knows? My take is that nothing we use is more dangerous or would do more damage than sucking on burning leaves with known carcinogens in them for 20-30-40 years has done to most of us already....
BTW; Whoever wrapped the wick for the photograph needs to read these forums...it was horrible!
JMHO
The Top Fin air-stones most of us are using now are safe to use with Salt Water fish. If you've ever kept salt-water fish you know how sensitive they are to any contaminants in their environment (especially anemones), so I highly doubt the stones contain any of the stuff they are concerned about - specifically lead. Anything that is salt-water rated cannot contain any lead at all - SW Fish are especially sensitive to it. I may be off-base, and I have no scientific proof of this, but I feel pretty safe to assume that if you can use it in a salt water habitat, it's safe to use in our application - as long as you get all the ceramic dust off of the wick - that's why it's a good idea to either boil and/or use an ultrasonic cleaner before you put it to use.
Who knows? My take is that nothing we use is more dangerous or would do more damage than sucking on burning leaves with known carcinogens in them for 20-30-40 years has done to most of us already....
BTW; Whoever wrapped the wick for the photograph needs to read these forums...it was horrible!
JMHO
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Sorry, i am confused by "fs", yes a comparison of batt. power between 325 s.s. and the fc., and also used with the 28k & the 32k.
Hehe... That was me. And I agree, I did a really bad job of it -- I really should replace that pic with one of the later, cleaner jobs. It was a first attempt and I had no idea how easy it was going to be to break that wick.
hey guys whats up im new to ceramic wicks and bought some recently and was wondering you someone can help me out i wrapped it with 30g kanthal and is at 1.5ohms but it seems like the juice doesnt travel fast enough to the wick any suggestions
Fist off - make sure you leave the fill-hole in the tank open (at least at first) & give it a little time. Most of us have found that the ceramics need about a tankful or so of juice until they start wicking at optimum levels. You will probably notice that the flavors are a bit muted at first also, but once the wick breaks in, it will come alive, and the flavors will really start to shine.
Have fun...
thanks iv been kind of stalking this thread for a little bit lol and trying to read and catch up i watched the video in the beginning of the thread and i have to say thanks cause vapdivrr is always helping me out...i re wrapped to 1.7 and threw in some juice im not so fond of to break in the wick so hopefully soon this will start...also im using a ZAP/provari i dont no if it has anything to do with the zap
Oh aint that the truth, takes anywhere up to 6 months to balance the damn tank, everything has to be perfect, sneeze in the general direction of the tank when balancing and the test fish die... the air stones could not have anything that would throw it out otherwise the company would go bust over night because word would travel so fast that their product killed precious fish etc...
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