so you wouldnt do the drill bit method? when i vaped ss wicks i always prefered a little tighter coil rather then a wick that could slide out from the coil. thats just the way i learned, never really tried the un-ox method.
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so you wouldnt do the drill bit method? when i vaped ss wicks i always prefered a little tighter coil rather then a wick that could slide out from the coil. thats just the way i learned, never really tried the un-ox method.
i will swap with you, i just bought an rsst. the only issue is that i took out the bushing to make the wick hole 4mm. now i dont know if the bushing can go back in because there is also a plastic peice between the wick hole and bushing, and that plastic piece got misshapened. it works ok with the big wick hole and a 1/8 wick, but it really needs a fish wick of bigger diameter. want to trade?
sure, ill trade. only thing is im missing the fill hole screw. i modded it so the air hole lines up too
does the air hole linr up on those? and why isnt it as good with a 1/8th, than with a wider wick? what does 4mm come out to in inches?
does the air hole linr up on those? and why isnt it as good with a 1/8th, than with a wider wick? what does 4mm come out to in inches?
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cool, i will pm you my address, ditto for you. most have purchaced this rsst because of the 4mm wick hole. being that i dont make my own wicks i cannot do its potential. you can make some large diameter wicks for it. i will send it with the little bushing and plastic peice if you want to make it back to the standard 3mm size, or 3.5 mm, not sure exactly the stock size, but its close to 3.5. besides the bushing its brand new and works great.
it is a pop top, no threads, so you can line it up perfectly. the stock wick hole, with the bushing in is perfect for a 1/8 wick. what i did was take out that bushing to get more wiggle room for the 1/8 wick, this workes fine but i think it is to large now for the 1/8 wick, for sometimes i get a slight gurgle sound. to use for 1/8 wick i think the bushing needs to go back in, but not sure if it can be done because the plastic insert was bent out of shape. i think optimally a wick slightly larger then 1/8 needs to be inserted. 4mm is like maybe close to 3/16 in. or just a shade under 3/16in
well this page says 4mm is just over 1/8th
mm to inch Conversion Chart from MyJewelrySource. mm to inches Conversion
so not sure why that would cause gurgling. anyway, ill pm you
mm to inch Conversion Chart from MyJewelrySource. mm to inches Conversion
so not sure why that would cause gurgling. anyway, ill pm you
The gurgle is probably juice getting by the wick and to the air hole. I had this problem with over-tilting my T+ with the FC2000 3/32 wick. Juice would get by and get into the air hole if I tilted it too far. Are you getting juice in your top cap? More than usual is what I mean.
I always used the drill bit method and was quite happy with the results after it breaks in, but just thought I would try a hot wrap..
Well guys the sintered fish stix turned up
took it to the lab
the stuff was crumbling a little which to me was a bad sign straight off the bat...
I used a piece of metal and was able to cut grooves into the material and thought ... too soft....
The I torched it, initially if caught on fire.... I thought ...... then the fire stopped, the material glowed just like a normal wick... I thought OK maybe this aint so bad.... so I went to grab it and move it to a vice so I can shape it / cut it but the moment I put a set of grips on it the material fell apart into a pile of dust... I kid you not it was like a dry sand castle it crumbled to power completely
took it to the lab
the stuff was crumbling a little which to me was a bad sign straight off the bat...
I used a piece of metal and was able to cut grooves into the material and thought ... too soft....
The I torched it, initially if caught on fire.... I thought ...... then the fire stopped, the material glowed just like a normal wick... I thought OK maybe this aint so bad.... so I went to grab it and move it to a vice so I can shape it / cut it but the moment I put a set of grips on it the material fell apart into a pile of dust... I kid you not it was like a dry sand castle it crumbled to power completely
Well I just got the official approval to turn down / mill / polish a mod during lunch times using the kit at work to do so....
will let you know how that comes along step by step.... make take some time.... but going brass for the mod initially... then I will work with stainless...
will let you know how that comes along step by step.... make take some time.... but going brass for the mod initially... then I will work with stainless...
Yeah OK your first on the list if I create a list and if I decide to make them for sale but for now let me make one first, see what it turns out like, it's going to take some time, the switch is where the issue is... the rest is fine... but that being said if I can keep the switch nice and short I estimate around the 60mm length for the 18350 size trying to limit the wasted space area looking at other mods etc... for example the smoktech natural has what I would call 15mm too much length that could have been avoided but heh its a cheap mod in comparison to others out there....
Ive sketched up a few switches already, going to try and make them see how much effort is involved, if it works out I will have a friend of mine who is in manufacturing to give me a price on making bulk parts.
The issue is making a lock for the switch, otherwise a plunger is very simple to design, just a spring and a tube to pass through is simplistic but making the locking mechanism and keeping the overall length down is difficult.
Anyway back to the topic of this thread
I think I might get some fish stix and start making some wicks because I have rebuildables here and not enough wicks for them.
The FC2000's are good, but we have to wait so long for them and they arent exactly cheap...
one of the guys at the office who was with me during the torching today said why not make it out of sandstone and be done with it...
so I ask has anyone tried sandstone?
Elias
Most of the bottom fire mods (and the GG for that matter) just have a ring that screws down onto the button to lock it in the off position. Is that what you were thinking of doing. The Uranos is probably the simplest mod I have seen and it works that way. The switch on it is very basic so if your going for something more high end you may want to expore the chi_you, it is the switch everyone raves about. The Caravela is the other big ticket mod.
Here is a vid of the uranos assembled/ disassembled to give you an idea.
you know the switch is exactly the way I was thinking, except not a rubber o ring at the bottom but a simple round piece of plastic more like a plastic washer, but the locking ring is nice, but I am trying to think of a flat flush lock twist and the push mechanism goes up and locks flush, untwist and its ready to fire, but I might concede defeat at some stage an go this method, it's neat enough.
Thanks heaps for the video, helped me with ideas.
Thanks heaps for the video, helped me with ideas.
yup... went to recoil wick, drops wick, wick snaps in two. made a new one. didnt hot wrap it cuz cheap pencil torch/nothing to hold wick, so i cotton wraped it first. vaping good.
then went to cut up rest of 3 inch top tin stone. got like 5 pieces, now the diamond cutter is dull. sparking like crazy, not cutting the rest.
dont get this wheel for the stones
2" Diamond Cut Off Wheel 1 8" Mandrel for Dremel Rotary lapidary Craft Tool | eBay
and for the love of Vape, dont buy this torch!!'
Amazon.com: BBQbuy Mini Jet Pencil Flame 503 Torch Butane Gas Fuel Welding Soldering Lighter: Everything Else
grabbing this good torch, 40 bux
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HT8U9M/ref=gno_cart_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
then went to cut up rest of 3 inch top tin stone. got like 5 pieces, now the diamond cutter is dull. sparking like crazy, not cutting the rest.
dont get this wheel for the stones
2" Diamond Cut Off Wheel 1 8" Mandrel for Dremel Rotary lapidary Craft Tool | eBay
and for the love of Vape, dont buy this torch!!'
Amazon.com: BBQbuy Mini Jet Pencil Flame 503 Torch Butane Gas Fuel Welding Soldering Lighter: Everything Else
grabbing this good torch, 40 bux
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HT8U9M/ref=gno_cart_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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So I have been vaping off of several attys with ceramic. There is one set-up that I keep coming back to...the Cobra with a 3/32 FC-2000 wick using .8mm ribbon kanthal at .8ohms. This set up also performs better overall on a provari than on a mechanical.
I think the combination of a number of factors together are driving this. The power limiting effect of the provari, the lower heat sink effect of the wick, the right amount of gap between the wick and wick hole and the length of the Cobra wick hole. The 3/32 just doesn't need 20 watts of power.
I think the combination of a number of factors together are driving this. The power limiting effect of the provari, the lower heat sink effect of the wick, the right amount of gap between the wick and wick hole and the length of the Cobra wick hole. The 3/32 just doesn't need 20 watts of power.
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