fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

[Hello World]

That the $64K question here. Did the micro gaps really only make a difference because of the pore structure on the previous version of FC-2000?

And that is another interesting question since the January wicks in my book do not even remotely perform as well as the March ceramic wicks. So are they bringing back the earlier wicks in a slotted version? I hope not, as the current ones are the best so far.

That said I really cant imagine getting a significantly better vape than what I am getting with the non-slotted version with no gaps, other than maybe a slightly faster response time/less heat sink for the larger diameter versions. We may be talking about splitting hairs....but I am still gonna get a couple to try anyway. Funny, how much more free time you have not dealing with SS Mesh.

That's the way I see it too.

Now and then you hear of someone who discarded ceramics for SS because he couldn't get enough vape from it. Poor SOB, instead of sticking with it and debugging, he chose the easy route and walk away. Just because the Beamer has some acceleration hesitations doesn't mean I park it and get back into the FIAT (Fix It Again, Tony) ... and that's you get with mesh.

the heart works a little harder and you dont want to go run a marathon not that I run marathons but just dont feel I could when I vape heavily... it may just be imaginary and I might actually be fine....

I can relate.

I also found that if I vape too much I can no longer get the taste of the vape, heck one night I remember after a fairly heavy vape day I mixed juices, the next day when I tasted the same juice I had to reduce the mix by adding 50% more PG and VG.

My flavoring concentrations are probably a lot less than others'. 1 drop of NF to 25ml of unflavored works perfect for me, so I'm not as likely to get choked by flavoring. I'm still in awe how clean they taste on properly set up RBAs.

Coming back to the ceramics... I was getting a great vape when there was no gap around the wick hole, but when I made the hole larger the juice flowed better, does this mean that gappy is better? your making us think here, looking at the results of the slotted and your hand wraps might mean that those gaps here and there might be more beneficial that a tight wrap using heat be it flame or electric wraps.

I probably would not have made mention of it if it wasn't for this über-perfect set up I have going. I'm blown away, can't imagine how I could better it. Some people can't handwrap and do better with heat ... lots of options attract people to at least try ceramics.

I am setting up a little jig for my dremel tool that simply makes it slide so I can groove the ceramics I have here and try it out, I was going to grove it just before the coil starts but not under the coil section initially and then take it out and grove it again all the way up to see the difference, but in light of whats being said here I think I might try a hand wrap as well just for comparisons sake.

These handwraps do test my patience ... lol ... but 1 in 3 I mess up and have to start all over again.

I can't stress strongly enough to electrically anneal that Kanthal to Kingdom Come before handwrapping. Maximum power. It almost feels like a strip of lead when done. Extreme glowing, long cool-downs doing it a dozen times or more. Prepping the wire will make or break the wrap. I had a guy ... lol ... pm me yesterday telling me it doesn't work because the wire keeps springing back. Uh-duh ... it's not annealed.

arghhh an all day project by the looks of things....

About 30 min. when all is said and done. The wrapping itself about 10 min. max.

I also have various diamond coated tips some that are simply small drill bit types, I was going to hollow out the top part of the wick also to see if the speed of heat up by having less mass produces a better vape or a dry hit because it gets too hot.

the testing is all over the place at the moment and I don't have time for everything, but I am planning on trying various things, hopefully all of the above.... lol wishful thinking....

That'll be interesting. I'll keep watching your posts.

 

[The Yeti]

Just recently got into genesis style RBAs (have been using silica RBAs for a couple years) and this ceramic wick looks to be the answer we've all been looking for!

Now, I haven't read this entire thread - nor even very much of it - but, what I want to know is: where can I buy some of these wicks??

Definitely subscribed!

 

[The Yeti]

Also, I have a Z-Atty Pro and soon a RSST - what size ceramic wicks would I need?

 

[Nomoreash]

Tankecigs has 1/8" in stock, Discountvapers also carry them but aren't in stock as often. DV also has the 7/64" when they have stock.

I've got an RSST and run 7/64" in it. 1/8 might fit but I doubt they'd be any room left for flow as the 7/64 doesn't have much wiggle room in the stock hole. You could remove the insulator and use the 1/8". As far as the ZAP someone else will have to chime in I have no experience with it.

 

[Hello World]

Also, I have a Z-Atty Pro and soon a RSST - what size ceramic wicks would I need?

ZAP = 7/64 ... although you could do with 1/8 and some 400 grid sandpaper. The RSST is good on 1/8, although some people have said it's a bit tight. Also, the wicks are not always uniform in size either, so keep some sandpaper nearby.

Some links where you can buy these ceramic wicks:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2000-porous-ceramic-wick-206.html#post9243877

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2000-porous-ceramic-wick-206.html#post9244110

 

[The Yeti]

Thanks guys! Guess I'll wait for them to be back in stock at DV. I found them at Tank ecigs, but quite a bit more expensive.

 

[Stoneface]

I've had 2 different 1/8" wicks in my RSST with wiggle room to spare...

 

[ricks]

Hey Vapdivrr, I just rolled the 7/64 ceramic 5 times and its at 1.5Ω. Will be vaping it tonight. What voltage do you recommend with my 100% PG?

you know there is not all that much space to really work with on the wick, and if your going to do a 4/5 i believe you will need to use all of the wick, so their going to be rather close. just try to space them evenly. if your device will let you go to 1 ohm a 3/4 might work even better. if you dont own a provari v-2, i believe you wouldnt be able to go under 1.2 to 1.3.

 

[vapdivrr]

Hey Vapdivrr, I just rolled the 7/64 ceramic 5 times and its at 1.5Ω. Will be vaping it tonight. What voltage do you recommend with my 100% PG?

i personally vape at higher wattages, so i would be in the 4.7 range, which is about the max output of the provari. so initially i would start out around 4v and then work up after a little while.

 

[vapdivrr]

about the gap issue on the ceramic wicks, i do know that before the hot wrap the break in time seemed to take a while, i initially thought it was that the wicks themselves needed to be broke in and this just took time to do. shortly after this it was told to me that it wasnt the wicks rather the gaps and that the break in time was the time needed to fill up these gaps. this made sense to me and when the hot wrap came out and i was able to make a tighter coil this thought was cemented. so there is no doubt that a tighter coil cuts down on the break in period, which was again verified by the cc method. now there probably is a happy medium somewhere in there in which slightly loose coils do not matter that much provided the wick is wet, because i have dfinatly hand wrapped my share of coils before the hot wrap and they performed awesome, it just took slightly longer to get that awesome vape. one thing that i never quite understood is that whenever we had done a hand wrap, which had slight gaps, and after sometime those gaps filled in which provided a great vape, then we dry burned the coils to get clean, then after this cleaning the vape didnt suffer at all. didnt this dry burn make the gaps re appear? then why didnt we need another break in period? maybe the first wicks themselves needed a break in period along with a semi tight coil, but now these newer wicks dont need as much break in so we just attributed it to the hot wrap? dont have all the answers, but this is what this is all about, evryone coming together to figure it all out. now with these new wicks, i do think they are better for sure, i think they are producing a little more vapor and they seem to be heating up a little faster whether or not its the slotts or just the newer make up i dont know.

 

[Lhartman89]

Thanks guys! Guess I'll wait for them to be back in stock at DV. I found them at Tank ecigs, but quite a bit more expensive.

I think everyone should boycott buying from tank ecigs because their price is insane. If we buy from them then they know people will pay that and charge it. We all want them cheaper so we should get them from DV only until other vendors start carrying them or they lower their price. Just my

 

[Hello World]

I think everyone should boycott buying from tank ecigs because their price is insane. If we buy from them then they know people will pay that and charge it. We all want them cheaper so we should get them from DV only until other vendors start carrying them or they lower their price. Just my

Maybe DV can give us some of heads up when some more wicks will come in. And still the manufacturer of the wicks could be in contact with us, since ECF, and the Ceramic threads in particular are his main client base, and also let us know when we could expect them to be available again.

Tankecigs knows only those desperate enough to have them will pay whatever it takes.

 

[zygote]

Thanks guys! Guess I'll wait for them to be back in stock at DV. I found them at Tank ecigs, but quite a bit more expensive.

Electronicstix has some at a resonable price and the should fit the zap.

 

[Elias]

Well I have a spare FC2000 wick, and the RSST my friend purchased for me arrived, guess what Im doing tonight....


I like the RSST, had a real close look at it, quite nicely made, the guys in the lab were debating the stainless steel 316 or 304 etc... I said is it stainless they said yes it is.... (I know nothing about stainless makeup)

This came with the smoktech natural as a combo, it also has the vase stainless drip tip unlike the video I saw earlier in the thread that needed the Greek translation

here are some iphone pics of it

 

[SteveW]

Well I have a spare FC2000 wick, and the RSST my friend purchased for me arrived, guess what Im doing tonight....


I like the RSST, had a real close look at it, quite nicely made, the guys in the lab were debating the stainless steel 316 or 304 etc... I said is it stainless they said yes it is.... (I know nothing about stainless makeup)

This came with the smoktech natural as a combo, it also has the vase stainless drip tip unlike the video I saw earlier in the thread that needed the Greek translation

here are some iphone pics of it

View attachment 201037View attachment 201038

Looks nice Elias. What is the airhole size like? I have the genuine AC9 and I really like the big air hole in it. Really makes a difference in the quantity of vapor I have noticed. I have promptly enlarged the AGA holes as a result and it is a vast improvement. Is that an insulator in the wick hole or just some kind of a metal sleeve or something?

 

[NamVet68]

Looks nice Elias. What is the airhole size like? I have the genuine AC9 and I really like the big air hole in it. Really makes a difference in the quantity of vapor I have noticed. I have promptly enlarged the AGA holes as a result and it is a vast improvement. Is that an insulator in the wick hole or just some kind of a metal sleeve or something?

Since Elias is probably busy playing with his new toy, I'll try to answer your questions & my take on the RSSTs:

Pretty nice atty - I should be getting two more today by mail. The air hole is relatively small, but the dome of the RSST is much thinner than the AC9, so its easily opened up. I like a tight draw, so it's perfect for me.

The area around the wick hole is a stainless insert with a Delrin sleeve around it to insulate it from the top deck. Its deliberately set up for Stainless wicks. With the plastic tank and the insulated wick hole - the shorting problems with the stainless wicks disappear. Nicely engineered solution.

The wick hole is a generous 1/8 inch (about 3.2mm), but if you want to run a larger one, you can tap the bushing & sleeve out (from the bottom). If you do it carefully, you can tap them back in (I've done it a couple of times on my first one), so you have a couple of options for wick diameters.

Some people have reported leakage down the center post, but I haven't seen any at all in my original one. I think they might not be adjusting the center post screw properly & are deforming the nylon seals at the top & bottom of the center post screw. I have heard that SMOK is going to be replacing them with a different material in the future to eliminate the potential problem.

The only further modification I did to mine was to add a couple of 6mm M3 Stainless washers under the positive screw (above the spring) to give it just a touch more tension since its a spring-loaded post.

The machine work, and even the screw threads are absolutely the best I've seen in any of the Chinese clones to date....I hate to say it, but in many ways it rivals the original.... and is some ways beats it for less than 1/3 the price.

Its a great RBA for the buck, otherwise I wouldn't have bought three of them
JMHO

 

[ricks]

Do you know the diameter of this?

Since Elias is probably busy playing with his new toy, I'll try to answer your questions & my take on the RSSTs:

Pretty nice atty - I should be getting two more today by mail. The air hole is relatively small, but the dome of the RSST is much thinner than the AC9, so its easily opened up. I like a tight draw, so it's perfect for me.

The area around the wick hole is a stainless insert with a Delrin sleeve around it to insulate it from the top deck. Its deliberately set up for Stainless wicks. With the plastic tank and the insulated wick hole - the shorting problems with the stainless wicks disappear. Nicely engineered solution.

The wick hole is a generous 1/8 inch (about 3.2mm), but if you want to run a larger one, you can tap the bushing & sleeve out (from the bottom). If you do it carefully, you can tap them back in (I've done it a couple of times on my first one), so you have a couple of options for wick diameters.

Some people have reported leakage down the center post, but I haven't seen any at all in my original one. I think they might not be adjusting the center post screw properly & are deforming the nylon seals at the top & bottom of the center post screw. I have heard that SMOK is going to be replacing them with a different material in the future to eliminate the potential problem.

The only further modification I did to mine was to add a couple of 6mm M3 Stainless washers under the positive screw (above the spring) to give it just a touch more tension since its a spring-loaded post.

The machine work, and even the screw threads are absolutely the best I've seen in any of the Chinese clones to date....I hate to say it, but in many ways it rivals the original.... and is some ways beats it for less than 1/3 the price.

Its a great RBA for the buck, otherwise I wouldn't have bought three of them
JMHO

 

[Euphonious Nonsense]

Oh mans, got my f2000s in and <3!!! Considering i only had about 4 inches of kanthal and his being my first hot wrap, it turned out pretty well. By the way, thank you to Vapdivrr for the tutorial video and to everyone in this thread. I will say the SS works better for an a tank type RBA simply due to me having to shorten the wick and hence it holding less juice, the ceramic seems to wick a bit slower most likely due to the surface area compared the to mesh. So in short, I will be buying a genny today sometime for my "work rig" and sticking to SS in my drippers for when im feeling frisky.

 

[jk6060]

Length: 48mm Diameter: 22mm Wick hole: 3.4mm Air hole: 1mm - from vapor tek usa

 

[Euphonious Nonsense]

By the way I (unfortunately) got mine from tankecigs, expensive(19.95), non slotted, but they work.