fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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Railrust

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i appreciate that alot, thanks


I think I will have to second that. Glad I got to meet you in another thread. You are always the one that took the time to talk me through the rba issues I had early on. But now I think your trying to kill me with Vapor!!! Vap...you might want to get on a reserve list for the AFPV coop...look at it and see what you think. I got one coming when he finishes building them. I asked this before but have you ever had problems with the 510 connection on your AC9? The threading is what Im talking about. Wont screw into some mechanicals I have.
 
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gdeal

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I don't like the "hot" vape at real low resistances, so I don't notice the nic.

28ga. at 1.2 - 1.4 ohms is good for me, and of course the 1.2 kicks up a bit more nic for TH, but I vape fast because I like the taste a little cooler.

32ga at 2.0 has no volume (E-cig Lite), you can suck back 5 vapes to get the same from a 28ga, 1.2ohm.

What does vape temp and nic derived TH have to do with each other? Not sure that I understand that comment. Can you explain?

i agree on the volume, is it just me but whenever i have tried the higher example i have found the vapor to be slightly darker, when vaping coils around 1Ω the vapor seems a little whiter.

What does "darker vapor" and "vapor seems a little whiter" mean?

Man...I feel like I am in a foreign country today and I don't speak the language.....
 

gdeal

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Im VERY satisfied with 30G 1.3 without hot wrapping. I don't think I can take more smoke without chocking to death. Man how good do we have to be before blowing my throat out the back of my head!!!! I have not tried ribbon on it yet. Im afraid to. You guys have the science down!!

Most of this is just tweaking to get a bit more horsepower. All these setups work great, we are just shaving tenth of seconds off a 1/4 mile run.
 

Hello World

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i agree on the volume, is it just me but whenever i have tried the higher example i have found the vapor to be slightly darker, when vaping coils around 1Ω the vapor seems a little whiter.
Hi Vap.

The type of juice you vape may also factor in.

My flavoring is extremely thin. I vape 75PG/25VG with only about 1 drop of most given DIY flavors to approx. 1 ounce of unflavored e-liquid I add it to, so this may have a different effect than let's say -- 15% flavoring. Possibly for those reasons I haven't noted what you have experienced. But for me anything much below 1.2Ω repulses my tastes -- it's way too hot.

This may also explain why I can simply clean my wick by 'wetburning' with PG, whereas someone who uses heavier flavoring has to remove the wick and boil/torch it three times as often. When I started vaping 4 months ago I loved super-heavy flavoring. Today I only want just enough to barely tip the balance from 'unflavored juice' toward a slight tinge of 'flavored juice'. I think that has a lot to do with my lungs having become tar unjunked and I'm more sensitive to what goes in there now.

I like the taste of 1.8Ω at 3.7 volts, but there just isn't enough volume, and why I set the resistance down and draw on it somewhat faster.

What does vape temp and nic derived TH have to do with each other? Not sure that I understand that comment. Can you explain?
Hey gdeal.

I think the same reason when people migrate over to Gennys and they find they can now reduce their nic by as much as half, because it's broken up better. I think the lower the resistence, the hotter, the more nic is turned into finer particle vapor that I can experience as TH. The acrid quality of SS is often mistaken for TH, and some people like this, but I prefer the nic to do that.

With the recent March ceramic wick release I noted more liquid on the outside of the wicks and also a lot more nic taste and TH when I set the ohms down to 1.2. My other 1.4 does not quite produce the same amount, and this is where I realized what the coil resistance/heat had to do with that. I'm sure it gets even better below 1.2, but I can't take the PG/VG temp that hot. I get phenomenal TH with only 6mgs of nic. But all that didn't come into play until I went to 28ga Kanthal.

Plus, I still think yet other factors are involved. Both my neat Atmizoo Roller and cheap Lavafire mechanical piece of junk produce clean, brilliant nic tastes. The electronic mods generate dissonance of sorts, and it does not remotely taste the same. (I'm reasonably sure it's caused by pulse cycles regardless how many times per second) I'm sure someone who uses heavy flavoring in their juices may not notice this, but with only 1 drop of concentrated flavoring to 1 ounce of unflavored juice it's very apparent -- the nic just shines.
 
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Stringer63

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Hey Vap, in my estimation, you have been nothing but a gentleman on this forum and generous to a T with sharing of information and resources. We all owe you a debt of gratitude for everything that has been accomplished in here.

I also want to voice my appreciation to Vap for starting this thread and putting alot of time into sharing his thoughts and tutorials (along with several others) to help us all along with this wicking material. Ceramic has given me the best vaping experience I've had in over 2 years of trial and error with multiple setups. While I'm still going strong with my diy fishsticks, I'm looking forward to hearing more about the newer ceramic materials coming out - can only get better!
 

gdeal

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Plus, I still think yet other factors are involved. Both my neat Atmizoo Roller and cheap Lavafire mechanical piece of junk produce clean, brilliant nic tastes. The electronic mods generate dissonance of sorts, and it does not remotely taste the same. (I'm reasonably sure it's caused by pulse cycles regardless how many times per second) I'm sure someone who uses heavy flavoring in their juices may not notice this, but with only 1 drop of concentrated flavoring to 1 ounce of unflavored juice it's very apparent -- the nic just shines.

I am not sure how much this has been discussed elsewhere, but I think your are making an insightful point. I just compared a SS wick on an RSST with a .8mm ribbon coil at .9ohms. The juice is 90% VG, 7.5% flavor/PG based and 2.5% distilled water.

I compared the setup on a provari at 3.4v for 12 watts and a mechanical with a fresh battery at 4.2v. Say under load I am losing a max of .75 volts that would put the mechanical at around 3.5v for at least 12.5 watts so both are pushing ~3.5 amps. I know the mechanical is pushing greater power, because it vapes faster and hits harder, but lets put that aside for now. When I compare the vape quality, the mechanical is pure smoothness (clean, brilliant nic taste), the provari is good, but I also get that increase in nic taste/feel. Its not metal, its more of a texture feeling of granularity. Its not bad, just a little more edge to the vape. Smoothness is definitely greater on the mechanical. The PWM on the VV device is changing the vape, slightly but its certainly there.

The science here just went past my pay grade, so I'll stop at the observation. Thanks for pointing that out, I never really did that apples to apple comparison.
 

vapdivrr

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What does vape temp and nic derived TH have to do with each other? Not sure that I understand that comment. Can you explain?



What does "darker vapor" and "vapor seems a little whiter" mean?

Man...I feel like I am in a foreign country today and I don't speak the language.....

hey gdeal, it wasnt any real experiement or nothing but i just wanted to again try a 32g set-up, as a matter of fact i just ripped it down but i had it running the last few days. i did a 2.2Ω w/32g, althought it was better then when i tried it with ss mesh wicks, i still prefer a lower resistant set up. whenever i tried this hi res set up with ss mesh the higher volts imo affected the taste, and i always thought at higher volts i could taste the mesh more. so i decided to try it with ceramic, and the flavor wasnt that bad at over 5volts, also the vapor production wasnt that far behind either, but what i think i noticed is that when i exhaled a hi res vape, the vapor didnt seem as white, it seemed to be a darker shade. maybe this is simply because of less volume.
 

vapdivrr

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Hi Vap.

The type of juice you vape may also factor in.

My flavoring is extremely thin. I vape 75PG/25VG with only about 1 drop of most given DIY flavors to approx. 1 ounce of unflavored e-liquid I add it to, so this may have a different effect than let's say -- 15% flavoring. Possibly for those reasons I haven't noted what you have experienced. But for me anything much below 1.2Ω repulses my tastes -- it's way too hot.
this is definatly possible, i definatly vape very high flavoring juices.
 

vapdivrr

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I also want to voice my appreciation to Vap for starting this thread and putting alot of time into sharing his thoughts and tutorials (along with several others) to help us all along with this wicking material. Ceramic has given me the best vaping experience I've had in over 2 years of trial and error with multiple setups. While I'm still going strong with my diy fishsticks, I'm looking forward to hearing more about the newer ceramic materials coming out - can only get better!

very cool, the newest ceramic comming out is the slotted, and just found out today that all 1/8 wicks will be slotted and the 7/64 will remain round. also it was my previous understanding that the new slotted wicks were changed in make up distribution, but this is not the case, the new slotted wicks are exactly the same as the previous ones. its the newer 7/64 wicks that they changed in the lastest batch. also about availability, it had gotten to a point before the slotted wicks where they were going to be more readily available, but the slotted design has put them behind. with the new design came new dyes and such. i tried to get some hard info on when these wicks will be avalable, but its not that simple. i guess there is alot of issues that go into making these, they can order let say 2,000 to be made but then some shrink, some break, the dyes become worn so they have to make another, they stacked to many high in the kiln so 300 are ruined. this and the fact that they are still trying to perfect the wick contributes to the inconsistancies in stock, and on top of all that the factory in which these fc wicks are processed make other products as well. im sure in time there will be more then can be bought but for now it is hit and run. with this being said i believe this week DV will have stock.
 

vapdivrr

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I think I will have to second that. Glad I got to meet you in another thread. You are always the one that took the time to talk me through the RBA issues I had early on. But now I think your trying to kill me with Vapor!!! Vap...you might want to get on a reserve list for the AFPV coop...look at it and see what you think. I got one coming when he finishes building them. I asked this before but have you ever had problems with the 510 connection on your AC9? The threading is what Im talking about. Wont screw into some mechanicals I have.

fortunately for me i have had no issues with my ac-9. it fits all my mods perfectly, provari, prov mini, caravela, and omega. anyways i have heard more then one say that this afpv is going to be awesome for it is a nice device. i will definatly check it out. i hear you on the vapor kill buddy for when you get a good set-up going the vape is the best. i feel the same, i really cannot handle anymore vapor but am always trying to gain more flavor, although it doesnt seem possible to improve. appreciate it alot, thanks
 

vapdivrr

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also as i previously mentioned, after i ripped down a test 32g set-up i recoiled with 30g and did the hellow world method (hww) , this is the second time in the last couple of days that i have wrapped a 30g wire in this manor. this method works extremely well with the 30g and will be my preferred method at this time, no break in period at all. i havent tried it yet with the 28g, but if it works as well as the 30g the hot wrap might be on the back burner for a while, no pun intended.
 

ricks

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Where is this hww method?
also as i previously mentioned, after i ripped down a test 32g set-up i recoiled with 30g and did the hellow world method (hww) , this is the second time in the last couple of days that i have wrapped a 30g wire in this manor. this method works extremely well with the 30g and will be my preferred method at this time, no break in period at all. i havent tried it yet with the 28g, but if it works as well as the 30g the hot wrap might be on the back burner for a while, no pun intended.
 

vapdivrr

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+1 don't sweat the little things in life.

froggy, you know the last coule of times i have done a coil i have been doing the hww method, this just simply uses the mod to electrically anneal the wire. today i was thinking back before the hot wrap, and when we were talking about different ways to anneal, didnt you once shortly mention using the mod to do this?
 

gamedemon

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OK Folks... So I read through this thread and been following it for quite some time.. I finally got my 1/8 ceramic wicks today...Yes I overpaid... but I had to try them..
I use a Reo with an A7 Bottom fed RBA.. So I boiled for like 10 minutes, then I soaked in VG for 2 hours, then I lit the VG up... I then dropped some of my juice on it.. and lit it up again...
Using my rotary, I cut a half inch piece...

I then build a coil.. I wrapped it around my screw Drive shaft, which was perfect as it was a little smaller than the wick... I then "screwed" the wick onto the wick. Perfectly tight... and vaped away... 2.16 Ohms using 30 gauge Kanthal.. about 6 wraps all in all.. I usually like higher resistance, higher voltage.. 5V all day long

AWESOME from the beginning.... no more SS for me unless I am desperate !
 

vapdivrr

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OK Folks... So I read through this thread and been following it for quite some time.. I finally got my 1/8 ceramic wicks today...Yes I overpaid... but I had to try them..
I use a Reo with an A7 Bottom fed RBA.. So I boiled for like 10 minutes, then I soaked in VG for 2 hours, then I lit the VG up... I then dropped some of my juice on it.. and lit it up again...
Using my rotary, I cut a half inch piece...

I then build a coil.. I wrapped it around my screw Drive shaft, which was perfect as it was a little smaller than the wick... I then "screwed" the wick onto the wick. Perfectly tight... and vaped away... 2.16 Ohms using 30 gauge Kanthal.. about 6 wraps all in all.. I usually like higher resistance, higher voltage.. 5V all day long

AWESOME from the beginning.... no more SS for me unless I am desperate !

as i am not to familiar with the devices that you use i am really glad they are performing as well as a genesis. so with your device the total lenght of the wick is only 1/2 in? thats cool, and you can get 3 wicks out of one. if you look at it that way the wicks dont seem as expensive.
 

vapdivrr

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That's to help oxidize SS mesh to prevent shorts. You don't need to do that for ceramic as it's not conductive.

If anything, it might inhibit wicking.

very true although when i first started with ceramics i was still doing that because it was just habit, but like you said its not necessary with ceramic. also when was the last time you had to prod your wires around?
 

Hello World

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froggy, you know the last coule of times i have done a coil i have been doing the hww method, this just simply uses the mod to electrically anneal the wire. today i was thinking back before the hot wrap, and when we were talking about different ways to anneal, didnt you once shortly mention using the mod to do this?
Hey Vap ...

It would probably be best to refer to this as the "Electrically Annealed Handwrap." First, it causes confusion because people will continually ask what HWW is, secondly I don't care to have anything named after me. In all such examinations, many people's suggestions were drawn upon which resulted in a full weekend of testing various heating methods until I found one that would get the wires on the ceramic really tight. Consequently I merely published these findings so others could utilize this technique if they so desire.

Since November 2012 I had seen in various threads people electrically annealing their Kanthal because they lost their lighter or something on that order. Yet others used stoves, torches and what not. I took all these suggestions through the wringer. In the end, the only workable application I found was to go far beyond merely annealing the wire, but to super-glow the living daylights out of it so as to fatigue it just a bit, and then wrap it right away. Better than 7 ft. of Kanthal were wasted just to get to this point. This is what I have found workable, I'm sure there are other modifications as well as other ways too, and I welcome these as they are of benefit to us all.

also when was the last time you had to prod your wires around?
Mine cannot be moved .... they are on too tight ... lol
 
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