At one point, you mentioned the possibility of a video. Would you reconsider posting one? I have read all of your posts about your technique, but I still don't fully understand the process while I understand the concept.
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I will make one at some point, but don't have the time for it right now. Most dreaded is getting the antiquated 2004 Logitech 480p cam up which used to freeze my computer then. My digital camera only shoots 30 seconds.
Let me know if you have any questions. It's actually really simple just the way I posted it, it's a no-brainer. If I left anything out and you are still wondering, just ask.
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Thanks, I didn't want to hijack the thread with this discussion. Do you attach both ends of the wire, glow it, then start wrapping leaving the neg end fixed to the post? Or do you glow sections of the wire and wrap only part of the coil at a time. I think I remember reading the first coil took over 10 minutes, which seems to indicate wrapping a portion of the coil and then hitting it again with the voltage and continuing the process.
Cut 4" (5" if you are doing it for the first time) Kanthal wire off. This is for 28ga Kanthal.
Stick in drillbit.
Note the wire has a spooled curve.
Fasten one end of wire to "inside" of neg screw so about half an inch sticks through and run the wire on the outside and against the drill bit (This is the way it would look on any final set-up.) The curve of the wire runs around the outside of the RBA and the other end is taken up to the pos. post screw. You maintain the wire's curve from neg. screw to pos. post -- don't bend it, don't add any folds to it, otherwise you'll have the trash that wire and cut a new one. Fasten wire onto the pos. nut/screw so you have approx. 2.0 ohms (You push the wire through and tighten down where you get about ~2 ohms which can be measured with the electronic mod the genny is attached to. Don't cut any excess wire off.
Remove drill bit, insert your ceramic wick.
If you have a Provari, take to max. voltage which will be around 5 volts. Fire until Provari cuts out. Wait 15 seconds, repeat a dozen times. (A better job is done with a mechanical doubling two 18350 batteries at 6 volts.) If the wire not glowing super bright, loosen the pos. post and run the wire through even further so you get down to 1.8 ohms or so, and then repeat.
When done electrically prepping the wire, loosen the pos. post nut/screw and start wrapping your coil right away. Go slow and apply gentle winding pressure, always countering with pressure from a finger against the wick so you don't break it.
Connect to pos. post.
Did I miss anything? It all sounds more complicated than it actually is.
... but that's about it. I would suggest doing some practice runs first using a wick substitute like a wooden dowel, drill bit, etc. You might have to waste a foot of Kanthal or so, but the vape in the end is phenomenal. All this is 30 min. max from beginning to end when all grooved in.
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Hey mate congrats on your success story. It would be really great if you could put a pic of your build up at some time so folks could get some ideas about alternative build possibilities. Most of us here use gennys predominately so other possibilities I am sure will hold great interest for other users.
Cheers.
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Thanks, this does answer some of my questions. I hope you are correct that it sounds more complicated than it really is! I will try your technique, but might ask for more help.
no problem with the named reference, electrically annealed handwrap sounds good to me. im with you on the naming thing, really most everything that is done was kind of done before maybe just slightly different, so a general term is good with me. my coils are also tight as they should be, i was just kind of remembering how much prodding i used to do with ss mesh and that you dont have to do it with ceramic.
hellow world, if you dont mind maybe i could do a vid with your method, not only to help here but my subscribers on u-tube would appreciate it as well. would you mind?
Look Ma, no nuts!
This MIGHT help the loose top nut/coil wire issue with my AGA T+.
With the nut method a small torque is induced into the center pin
by the top coil wire being wrapped around the outside of the post.
After many hot/cold cycles this pin could rotate--loosening
the top wire. With this mod the top wire is seized between the top screw and
the top of the center post. This will eliminate that torque and make it
easier to safely tighten the top coil wire on my ceramic wick.
This MIGHT help the loose top nut/coil wire issue with my AGA T+.
With the nut method a small torque is induced into the center pin
by the top coil wire being wrapped around the outside of the post.
After many hot/cold cycles this pin could rotate--loosening
the top wire. With this mod the top wire is seized between the top screw and
the top of the center post. This will eliminate that torque and make it
easier to safely tighten the top coil wire on my ceramic wick.
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Absolutely !!! Go for it !!!
Good idea, I'm not gonna be able to get set up in any reasonable amount of time.
Absolutely !!! Go for it !!!
Good idea, I'm not gonna be able to get set up in any reasonable amount of time.
appreciate it, thanks
Look Ma, no nuts!
This MIGHT help the loose top nut/coil wire issue with my AGA T+.
With the nut method a small torque is induced into the center pin
by the top coil wire being wrapped around the outside of the post.
After many hot/cold cycles this pin could rotate--loosening
the top wire. With this mod the top wire is seized between the top screw and
the top of the center post. This will eliminate that torque and make it
easier to safely tighten the top coil wire on my ceramic wick.
looks like the zap, i believe all zens have this connection. so is this your aga that you moddled? or just a picture of what you would like to do with yours?
awesome, i always liked the look of that connection, the only part that may or may not be an issue is that you might be stuck to that specific distance of making the coil, for me it would work because i have a bunch of different set ups so that one would let say be my 5 wrap device. i do like a specific distance in my coils so if i were to make a 2/3 it might be a little harder to span that hi without spreading the wraps. great job
You're exactly right. Good eye--good eye! A nut under
the bottom coil wire screw would allow you to mount a shorter coil.
Since I use a VAMO,(1.2Ω lower limit), the best setup for me has
been a 5/4 of 29ga. and a 1/8" FC-2000 stuck through a 9/64" hole.
I've spent WAY too much time on this ceramic
thing but this rig vapes great for me right now.
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hellow world, just did a 28g electric annealization for a 1/8 wick. probably did a dozen or so zaps. after the final one i proceeded to wrap and wala, a perfectly tight coil, im loven it. quick question, i noticed in an instructional post about this you mentioned about inserting a drill bit, what exactly is the purpose of this? being that i was after a .07 ohm coil i started out with a lenght of wire that measured 1.4Ω, this actually measure about 3in or so. i connected the neg and carefully made a soft loop in the direction of the wraps to the pos, and connected. proceeded to zap and coil. now im thinking that because i didnt use drill bit that possibly i am doing it slightly different then the way previously described. and to those wanting to just get a better visual on this method i will do a video tomorrow, so thanks again to HW.
You're exactly right. Good eye--good eye! I would need to shorten the
center post to accommodate a shorter coil. Since I use a VAMO,(1.2Ω lower limit)
the best setup for me has been a 5/4 of 29ga. I've spent WAY too much time
on this ceramic thing and it vapes great for me right now.
love the 29g wire, so is this 4/5 of 29g with a ceramic wick?
Great to hear that's working out really well. None of my coils have loosened up either since I wound them some 10 days ago or so, still all the same. See how quick juice flows down after a quick tipping ... on mine nearly instant. Still enjoying the best vapes I've ever had. An equivalent SS setup cannot touch this, even in terms juice gotten to the coil or vapor produced.
To serve as a guide when securing the wire to the neg screw and running around the outside of the wick so as not to accidentally bump into and break an FC-2000. Was just a little safety thing I penciled in.
Yeah, drill bit not needed if you know what you are doing. Was mostly an instruct for noobies, as they're more prone to break a wick.
Most excellent. Cheers ...
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