Does anyone know when the BD13 will be available? My regular FC2000 is wicking just fine but just wondering if the BD13 is any stronger.
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Does anyone know when the BD13 will be available? My regular FC2000 is wicking just fine but just wondering if the BD13 is any stronger.
1st wrap on a 7/64 c2000/ hot wrap.. Well snapped wick at my finger tips. just a little bit. 5 coils, beautiful. 100 vg, clouds n clouds. dropped in my aga+, flavor is a bit muted, but no SS. So I know what direction my wicks are coming from. This is the best set up i have tried. Looking forward to the next tank of fluid, every drag, more flavor. Its as perfect as i think i can get at this time. Thank you so much for the knowledge shared here...
BTW I got the 'new' FCs from Tank last week (not slotted). they definitely have a different feel than the first run. Darker... I get the feeling theyr a bit more solid too and a nicer finish... maybe wishful thinking but it looks like a really nice batch..
i dont think it is going to be anytime soon. i believe it is just a creation of one of the guys here in the forum. he made some and the word got out. im sure it will be a while before production thoughts if any, starts. promising though
hey buddy, they are darker and perform better too, not sure if they are more solid though
hey ricks its not necessarily that the thicker wire uses more battery, its just that along with thicker wire comes lower resistance, and with lower resistance comes higher amp draw, its this that can drain a battery faster. if using 18650 batterys its not that bad, but if you are using some 18350 then there is a big difference. didnt you say you were looking for a genesis atty that was small, like 5/8 in diameter? well gotvapes has this cobra mini clone, it is 5/8, but only holds about 2mls of liquid. it has a plastic tank and the wick and fill holes are tiny. you could probably only use ss mesh, as the wick hole is just to small for ceramic. it looks kind of nice though
sounds like your off & running. did you say you snapped a bit off the wick? what gauge wire are you using? with the 7/64 wick and either 30g or 32g you might be better off doing the electric wrap instead of the hot wrap. i think with the hot wrap you might have a better chance of snapping the smaller sized wicks, but if you prefer the hot wrap then stick with it and in time im sure you will breeze right through it with no problems. now with the 28g and 1/8 wicks the hot wrap is still the best way for a tight coil, but the last time i did a 28g set-up i used the electric wrap and it worked great.
Was just so stoked to get a 32g 5wrap coil on a ceramic. Been hitting it all day here at work, flavor is more n more. I am going to continue with the hot wrap method, since i have no electrical set up yet. I did see the pictures posted, i can do that. My next step is to try and make my own wicks from fish stones. I will probably get to the e-wrap next month. I am stuck at work with a knee brace on, waiting for surgery.. Then i should have some free time.
good luck with the surgery. all you need for an electric wrap is your actual device, it sounds more complicated then it sounds. you just connect the wire to your neg & pos terminals, no wick installed yet, then you just fire the wire until it glows, you do this a bunch of times, this gets the wire very pliable, then you disconnect the pos, install wick and wrap. with 32g im suprised you didnt burn right through the wire when you did the hot wrap. i did a video on the electric wrap, its a few pages back.
I saw those, but they say they are 18mm and 19mm wide. I sent them a message to confirm the exact diameter. Thanks
Let's say you have a 1" long section of 32ga Kanthal wire and another 2" long 28ga piece. Both may have the same resistance, but the 28ga wire produces far more heat and requires more energy. On the eVic, which displays ohms, volts and watts on it's interface, you can mount a 1.5 ohm, 32ga atty which will show one value in watts, and will display quite another for a 1.5 ohm 28ga atty. However the thing only goes up to 11 watts, so it's usefulness is limited. Further, since it's not measuring the draw in real-time, so I question those values too.
So the energy requirements are quite different. What I have been looking for is some mathematical calculation, formula or table I could use to more accurately determine what the exact wattage & amp requirements are for any given coil. So far, zilch.
I will get an amp meter this week sometime and just measure each atty individually rather than calculate using formulas because I don't think they are accurate because of these variables which are not taken into account.
What's your take on this?
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Does it really require more energy? I don't know, the wire gauge is never a parameter in conversion tools...this is what I use. The current (amps) that you draw is defined by the voltage and resistance. So that's interesting what you're saying; a missing parameter in the ohm law!
I don't know if it's a scientifically sound theory, but I can tell you that in my personal experience it certainly rings true.
Suppose we have a half inch thick piece of resistance wire let's say 2 feet long at 1.5 ohms. No way any rechargeable battery as we know it can make that wire glow. The missing factor is AMPS, lots and lots of AMPS since we use batteries that are limited to 3.7 volts.
I'm sure it's been discussed here on ECF before ... but finding things is often impossible unless someone happens to remember the thread. There must be values that go along with any given resistance wire that affect these equations but again, haven't been able to find anything.
I'll just get an amp meter.
I'm sure it's been discussed here on ECF before ... but finding things is often impossible unless someone happens to remember the thread. There must be values that go along with any given resistance wire that affect these equations but again, haven't been able to find anything.
I'll just get an amp meter.
The 28g wire is wierd in that it is low resistance wire but becuase it is so thick it is at the same time its a cooler wire. For example if you run a set up with the 32g wire at 12 watts and run a 28g set up at 12 watts the 32g wire will be a lot hotter. IF you vape any juice at 15 watts, it will burn with 32g wire but be very enjoyable with the 28g wire. So the thickness of the wire definitely has some role in the temperature at the coil.
Have you folks followed or seen this thread - it's all about wire temp.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/346216-watts-do-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html
i think you are correct, i was kind of stating a more practical description in that most who uses thicker wire will go really low with resistances which cannot be matched with thinner wires, and thats always the way i have thought about it. now if actually measuring the draw on a battery with 2 examples, one being 28g at a certain resistance and voltage and a 32g at the same resistance and volts, then i believe the draw would be equal, but to be honest i dont really know for sure.
well 18mm is pretty close to 5/8, maybe a tad bigger. so you need one exactly 5/8?
That was a great read and thanks for posting. It makes a lot of sense. Being able to cover more of the wick with your wire will of course liberate more vapor. As far as what will put more drain on my batteries, to tell your the truth I don't really care. I just want the tastiest full-bodied vapor possible. The lowest resistance wire I have at the moment is 30g but I really want to give some 28g and some 0.8 ribbon a go very soon. Anyone tried the 0.8 ribbon using the EAW wrap on the new wicks as yet? Logically, the ribbon will give the best coverage possible, just not sure how easy it is to work with.
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