I take your point. Certainly the extra ampacity adds a safety level. However, I don't use such mods and can't recommend one.
First mech mod?
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I don’t really ether but with the Ramp up of BF new mech users are coming out like mad on Facebook I love my tubes and my cherry bomber cherry bomber and elite box being the only 2 I own but not something I would tell a new user to get
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Be very careful. When in doubt, ask. When not in doubt, ask. Ask before you try it. And welcome to the wonderful world of mechs. As I said, I love it. Mechs are harder to do, but much more technically challenging and therefore more rewarding. Nothing like a mech to put some polish on your coil building skills.
@suprtrkr The Dirty deed has been done. Not too painful at all. Twenty bucks from Vape Royalty. Never used them before but for the cost of a few packs if stinkies I'm sure I'll live through whatever happens. Think I'll start with about a .3Ω build on a Goon and see how that works out. Kinda ease into this. Thanks for helping me spend my money, lol. This should be a hoot.
Make sure you confirm resistance on an ohm reader (dedicated or mod) before you hit the fire button on a mech.
Aaahhh... Let's make that a .5Ω build, shall we? That'll give you some more headroom for mistakes. A .3 will draw 14amps on a fresh battery. I don't like to get that close myself. I suggest you discount your battery's amp rating by about 20% for safety, then try not to use more than 90ish% of that figure. Safety is part of the reason, but you'll also find the vape falls off a ton very quickly as battery voltage diminishes with use. If you really want a .3, you'll be changing batteries every hour. Anything much lower than the .5 I mentioned on a one-battery tube isn't going to offer much in the way of battery life. Unless you're using 25 amp LG HD series batteries? Then the safety factor goes up; but the battery life factor goes down... You'll see, and you'll also see what I meant about being more technically challenging. Let me also mention you should use slick (round) wire instead of fancy builds as the fancy wire will take forever to heat up.
I can dig that. I've got some Mooch approved 25A but I really don't want to change out every hour. I may have to split the difference with you though. .37Ω is about all I can fit in the Goon with 2x26+36 parallel K1. I hit up lightning vapes for some bulk K1. I'm a TC fan so I'm well stocked on SS. Should all come in about the same time.
Cool beans. Be careful-- I said that already, right? Lol-- and let us know how you get on.
oh god... everyone tells me “once you buy this you won’t need another one” started with an ego AIO.. then went to an alien and baby beast, then a tfv12, then a captain and a cleito 120, and now an eleaf istick and a csmnt rda along with 10+ flavors, oops.Ehhh , get a Reo Grand LP and be done with it , you might find you'll never need another mod period . Unless of course it's another Reo .
i’ll probably get both, but want to start out with a tube, something smaller than a box mod, already have 3 regulated box mods lol.
There's a reason that I'm even bothering to to tell you this , It's no joke . It's American made with spare parts and service easily available , it ain't cheap but it ain't a disposable piece of junk either .
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You must of tried an original reo grand from like 7 years ago??? Much has changed since.
Baloney ! It's all in the build and the atty , I have a Stingray X with a direct to battery connection and a copper Stingray , we can talk voltage drop all day long . My REO Grand hit's just as hard as my other mechs .
How anyone can state that bf mods hit weaker than tubes is beyond me 
. Apart from the fact that simply isn’t true, that is a huge generalisation that simply cannot be made due to the huge variation between designs. My BF mods are the hardest hitting I have - and I have a lot of mechs.
. Apart from the fact that simply isn’t true, that is a huge generalisation that simply cannot be made due to the huge variation between designs. My BF mods are the hardest hitting I have - and I have a lot of mechs.
IMHO, the REO is a fine, fine mod - the Nemesis of squonkers, if you will. The grand model has the catch cup, which can bother some folks with larger atties, but the P67 has a flush 510. As for the hot spring, it's a safety feature and nice to have just in case (why wouldn't it be nice?).
It's also like the OG VW Beetle, which is to say it's beloved and tends to engender an emotional connection. Like the Beetle, this is largely because of the balance of practicality, personalization, and (when it was introduced, at least) uniqueness. All good things. Add in a very supportive manufacturer and an enthusiastic, knowledgeable community and you've got a very good place to be in vaping. Particularly for someone new to rebuilding, mechs, or squonking, which the OP indicated they were.
It's also like the OG VW Beetle, which is to say it's beloved and tends to engender an emotional connection. Like the Beetle, this is largely because of the balance of practicality, personalization, and (when it was introduced, at least) uniqueness. All good things. Add in a very supportive manufacturer and an enthusiastic, knowledgeable community and you've got a very good place to be in vaping. Particularly for someone new to rebuilding, mechs, or squonking, which the OP indicated they were.
^ What he said!
Plus there's since been new gold contacts and spring made for sub ohm coils and a better button that won't melt while sub ohming... updated all stainless steel 510 and adjustable! Now easy to change out the battery contact if needed.
I don't use noalox and don't know who still uses that.. Maybe some use it on the threads of a tube mod.
We use deoxit gold on the contacts once in a great while.
How anyone can state that bf mods hit weaker than tubes is beyond me
Guess I shod of said all I have tried don’t hit like my tubes do with same builds same rda
I’m not going to post what ohms I vape at cuZ I get a hard time but on the boxer I welded the contact to the 510 and had to pull the battery to get it to stop firing (clone)
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