Fogger V2...WOW

[Burnie]

I agree that one shouldn't have to, but when the choices are between something like the fogger for $20 or so vs. something that would probably be quite a bit more, I'm going to be more willing to modify stuff to save money while still getting the desired vape. That's one of the main reasons I got into rebuildables.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

But why not buy one you Don't Have to Modify to get a good vape? I prefer a CE4, EVOD, Vivi Nova, (all I can rebuild) over the Fogger V2. JMHO I agree not an rba, which I would like, but to do build after build, watch lots of videos of this is crap, try and try again, not worth the trouble, IMHO.

Vape On

 

[dwcraig1]

I have a real problem when I think about taking my Dremel to a$ 100 + atomizer but with the Fogger I knew going into it that it was necessary.
My Fogger now out performs my Kayfun Lite by quite a bit, it isn't as simple to fill though, it's comparable to filling a Kayfun from the top, a small amount of leakage may occur. The Kayfun is easier to re-wick but the Fogger isn't that much harder.

 

[ccwaters]

But why not buy one you Don't Have to Modify to get a good vape? I prefer a CE4, EVOD, Vivi Nova, (all I can rebuild) over the Fogger V2. JMHO I agree not an RBA, which I would like, but to do build after build, watch lots of videos of this is crap, try and try again, not worth the trouble, IMHO.

Vape On

Both of my Foggers are much more trouble free then an EVOD, CE4, and Nova, I don't even like as well as an EVOD, Vape quality is day and night. I really don't know what all the negative issues are with these Foggers, mine just work, I've had zero issues, except my very first build, and some very slight flooding if I do a lazy quick fill on them.

Build related due to QC on some I can see, but wicking issues have me scratching my head.. You all running the crappy worthless O-ring in the chamber cap?

 

[Phone Guy]

It looks like some encouragement is required, everything I did here was real easy. I have never even set up a stock Fogger, this is my fourth one, my wife broke her v1 tank and I sold my other two. This is the only one that I thinned the walls around the wick slots and it works well.
The outside looks a little rough perhaps.

No micro here as I have an added short piece of 3 mm in the coil with the 3 mm piece that sticks out of the slots.

Wet and ready

Airways are modded some also.

So by using your dremmel, and opening the side juice slots, what did that accomplish? Did it make it easier to build? Less flooding? More wicking?

What am I missing here?

And do I understand you have 2x 3mm ekowool or silica? One short and one longer in that coil? So one piece stays in the chamber and one piece pokes out of the juice slots?

Sent using my typewriter

 

[dwcraig1]

So by using your dremmel, and opening the side juice slots, what did that accomplish? Did it make it easier to build? Less flooding? More wicking?

What am I missing here?

Making the slots wider allows for a larger wick, high wattage requires a large area to heat.
Thinning the walls enabled the wick to be able to feed the coil with less restriction.
The wick and coil configuration was really not the point except it has to be the big enough through the slots to not leak but small enough to not restrict.
I'm now running a 1/16" id micro coil with cotton ball wick as that is what made the slot size for.
The resulting wick hole is a half sphere of a 3.5 mm hole which is the right size for the wick for a micro of that ID.
Without thinning the walls at the wick slots it would head towards dry after 3 quick hits, it just couldn't replenish the coil fast enough.

 

[jameth]

Just got a "V3" Fogger in today.

I already own a Kayfun Lite / Russian 91% style clone that works great, was just curious what some of the other options out there are, and the Fogger is pretty cheap so I figured I would give it a shot.

I didn't waste any time getting the SS/silica wick and coil that came with it outta there, I did measure its ohms on an MVP and it showed 1.1

I wrapped a 30 guage kanthal coil at 2.6 ohms, wraps very close if not touching, wrapped it around the screwdriver that came with the Fogger, probably about 2.5 mm inside diameter, soaked some 1.5 mm ecowool in some vg, and managed to get it through the coil.

Got it mounted in the Fogger, trimmed the ecowool to where a little bit was sticking out each side, left the oring off, pushed the glass on making sure the wick wasn't messing with the o-ring seal at the glass.

Filled it up and let it sit for a bit, gave it some sharp inhales without power, never saw any bubbles. Give it a little blow through it and I did see some bubbles form.

Lots of dry hits, little vapor, bad taste.

It was pretty clear to me that it just wasn't wicking very well for some reason, so I drained it, and took it apart.

I fluffed up the wick a little bit, pulled out a couple strands, and cut the wick so that it didn't really protrude out the grooves at all, just barely, put it back together and filled it up again.

This time it is working really well, it feels like it may be on the verge of flooding to some degree, but hasn't yet, and is hitting like a train!


I do have one question for you Fogger vets, is there some way to tighten up the air-flow control so that it isn't constantly spinning around willy-nilly and making annoying noises?

 

[doubliner837342]

Ditto to what ccwaters and dwcraig1 say regarding the fogger's hassle's versus any of the bottomn coil clearos mentioned. (Though I do love an evod or protank on occasion for out and about sometimes.)

I'm a habitual video watcher but surprisingly have only watched one or two (Todd's is the only one I actually remember watching) but I also followed and read through all of this thread when I finally decided to make my purchase.

It only took one or two builds to be happy with it. The only real modification I did was to remove that stupid post going up the center for from the air control chamber. Popped off with pliers, no problem. Oh yeah, I also put an insulator on the positive post. All together, took about 5 minutes tops.

I've had the same coil in there for weeks now, though I just put in some anise flavor (Grenada) that isn't working out so that means it'll need a full cleaning and rewicking, so I'll probably try a new coil as well. I think I'll try a vertical coil surrounded by cotton, as I've seen several post here previously. (On a side note, anyone ever have Grenanda that seemed "bad" or "off"? I've had it previously and loved it, but the current bottle I have just seems...not good.)

Sorry for the rambling, hope I'm not too annoying. I don't usually post much but this thread has become a daily update for me as I've really enjoyed seeing what people have done with my current favorite atty.
-tralfmordian

 

[doubliner837342]

I do have one question for you Fogger vets, is there some way to tighten up the air-flow control so that it isn't constantly spinning around willy-nilly and making annoying noises?

My afc spins freely, but I wouldn't describe it as willy-nilly, and it definitely doesn't move much unless I'm spinning it purposefully. That said, usually I keep it open all the way, as I like the airy draw that gives me. (I have what FT called the V2, but it has 4 airholes, so whatever that is....) Not sure how one would make the afc tighter, I wonder if that's another issue chalked up to quality control on mass produced Chinese stuff. I feel like I may have lucked out with mine.
-tralfmordian

 

[jameth]

Oh I also wanted to mention, mine came from Stormy's Vapor Cellar just today, branded as a V3, has 4 air holes, and with regards to airflow, there is no way on earth you would want to INCREASE the airflow on this thing, if it had any less resistance it would be like regular inhaling, which really it is not to far off already when the AFC is opened up.

 

[jameth]

My afc spins freely, but I wouldn't describe it as willy-nilly, and it definitely doesn't move much unless I'm spinning it purposefully. That said, usually I keep it open all the way, as I like the airy draw that gives me. (I have what FT called the V2, but it has 4 airholes, so whatever that is....) Not sure how one would make the afc tighter, I wonder if that's another issue chalked up to quality control on mass produced Chinese stuff. I feel like I may have lucked out with mine.
-tralfmordian

Thanks for the info, mine is very loose, in fact it is so loose that sometimes it will shift up or down as I draw on it, not rotating, but shifting up and down on the threads.

If I tap it, it jingles against the threads.

And yea regarding the airflow on this unit, there is virutally no resistance at all, I have to have it tightened almost all the way down to start to get any resistance in airflow.

I also like a nice airy draw, like most protanks, but this is super airy when opened all the way up, way more then any PT I have seen.

 

[ccwaters]

Thanks for the info, mine is very loose, in fact it is so loose that sometimes it will shift up or down as I draw on it, not rotating, but shifting up and down on the threads.

If I tap it, it jingles against the threads.

Sounds like Crappy Fogger QC has hit yet another Home Run.. Both of mine are fine, don't really move unless I'm not watching what I'm doing putting it on, or taking it off, definitely won't move though unless my fingers make it do so. I'd say that is beyond the no warranty advanced device thing many hide behind, and I'd be hitting the vendor up for a replacement.

 

[doubliner837342]

If I tap it, it jingles against the threads.

And yea regarding the airflow on this unit, there is virutally no resistance at all, I have to have it tightened almost all the way down to start to get any resistance in airflow.

Yeah, that's definitely not the way it's supposed to be. I wonder if flipping that afc ring around would do anything. Probably not, but worth a try maybe. Have you ever dismantled the base since you've had it? That was the one tricky part for me in modding it, as I needed to get some strong pliers on the base and then a knife blade of some sort to carefully twist off the deck. (See OP, I think.)

When I do want a tight airflow, like you say, I do have to tighten near-closed to get there.

 

[jameth]

I have not dismantled the bottom AFC part yet no.

I don't really feel like mailing this thing back halfway across the country over this, but I am curious how the vendor would respond to this so maybe I will shoot them an email for fun.

Really it is more annoying then problematic.

I saw someone mention putting dental floss on the threads of the AFC to tighten it up a bit, I was thinking that or some teflon tape would do the trick.

 

[Scope666]

Thanks for the info, mine is very loose, in fact it is so loose that sometimes it will shift up or down as I draw on it, not rotating, but shifting up and down on the threads.

If I tap it, it jingles against the threads.

And yea regarding the airflow on this unit, there is virutally no resistance at all, I have to have it tightened almost all the way down to start to get any resistance in airflow.

I also like a nice airy draw, like most protanks, but this is super airy when opened all the way up, way more then any PT I have seen.

Mine is the same way (can wiggle in the threads) ... I also find it WAY to airy all the way open, and I have a V2 with 3 holes ... would love to find a way to get it to stay where I set it ... perhaps teflon tape....

 

[dwcraig1]

Mine is the same way (can wiggle in the threads) ... I also find it WAY to airy all the way open, and I have a V2 with 3 holes ... would love to find a way to get it to stay where I set it ... perhaps teflon tape....

When you have it, the AFC ring, either bung the threads a little or tweak the ring slightly towards egg shaped (easy does it).
There is no o-ring inside the ring nor is a groove there for one to be.
I am considering leaving mine off but it looks better on, I didn't use it.

 

[Scope666]

When you have it, the AFC ring, either bung the threads a little or tweak the ring slightly towards egg shaped (easy does it).
There is no o-ring inside the ring nor is a groove there for one to be.
I am considering leaving mine off but it looks better on, I didn't use it.

Not a bad idea, being slightly out of round should do the trick. Will try on next rebuild. Thanks DW!

 

[Phone Guy]

I've tried floss and Teflon tape. Both work, but the Teflon tape stays better...the floss tends to come if easily...maybe I didn't grasp the concept of how to wrap it on the threads properly?

I rebuild my V3 tonight that I got from COV, labeled as a V3 with 4 air holes. I used cotton yarn, 1 piece through the coil, and one on top like a flavor wick. Both sticking out of the juice slots a tiny bit and trimmed. It flooded the AFC lower section 3 times....I'm lucky that my AFC section comes off easy, so I turn it upside down, take off the AFC clean it off juice (lots in there), had to do that twice (yes it flooded twice), after the third time it regulated?

I'm not sure if it might be the o rings on the top cap? Chimney stem? I've noticed when I take the top cap off, it makes lots of bubbles.....I think it might be the chimney stem o ring honestly. I think that's the reason some have success and others failure. I think that tiny clear o ring is the culprit. I may be wrong?

Sent using my typewriter

 

[pizza2me]

<snip>.. I used cotton yarn, 1 piece through the coil, and one on top like a flavor wick. ... <snip>

Interesting!! I'm still struggling to get a consistant good vape with the fogger v2. Rebuilt it last night with yarn through the coil. Getting a decent vape, but not great. And a bit of gurgling. I'll try the piece of yarn on top tonight. Do you have the "wick o-ring" off or on?

Thanks MPG!

 

[jameth]

3 mls or so through it, working great with this 1.5mm ecowool (closer to 3mm in regular silica) with a couple strands pulled out after installation.

Easily on par with me KFL/Russian clone (it's the Tobeco, so its more like Russian then a Kayfun / has AFC adjustment on side).

I like the wider range of airflow available to me on the Fogger, and I like being able to tweak it without tools, just need to figure out a way to get the AFC dial a little less floppy.


I also really like the pyrex tank section on these instead of the plastic on the Kayfuns.

 

[jameth]

One thing I am noticing is the Fogger seems more able to wick like crazy then then the Kayfun, and because of that I am able to run quite a bit more wattage through the same OHM's on the Fogger then the KFL without getting dry hits.

It may just be the way my KFL is built right now, but yea the Fogger seems to be able to take a lot more power and keep up with the wicking.

Because of this I am also going through juice twice as fast it seems.

My current KFL build just sips on the juice, and makes for a little dryer vape, the Fogger on the other hand chugs the juice, and delivers a nice rich cloud with lots of flavor.

I like both units for their own reasons, and I do think some juices will taste better in one or the other, based on coil saturation.