Fogger V2...WOW

[dparker6]

I'm glad someone else has figured out the same concept with the fogger, not obstructing the juice channels makes it perform like a total boss... i like your filling tactic as well I will have to try that.

 

[Scope666]

I'm glad someone else has figured out the same concept with the fogger, not obstructing the juice channels makes it perform like a total boss... i like your filling tactic as well I will have to try that.

Makes sense .... you turn the Fogger into a giant Aspire Clearo ;-)

 

[zipflint]

Can someone give me some tips on making a vertical coil for my 2nd Fogger? I've got one running perfectly and wanted to give the vertical setup a try, but I'm getting nothing but flooding. Here are some photos of what I've been doing, so tell me where I'm being a bonehead, heh. I THINK I might have the coil set too high over the air hole, for one thing....

 

[crss]

I like the close up pix zipflint. Whats up with that lower o-ring? If you dont have an airtight tank seal, Foggers will leak out the air intake.

 

[zipflint]

Yeah that o-ring. THAT one (that came installed on the tank) would not fit over that lower, black o-ring. Well, it would, but within a few seconds the o-ring would squeeze the tank right off. So I found another one from somewhere (could be one of the replacements that came with the Fogger) and put it there. That fixed my tank-launching problem.

But you DID just give me an idea. That "useless" white o-ring that goes around the juice channels. I had totally forgotten about that.
EUREKA.....maybe. I'll report back.

In the meantime, if anyone else has ANY input (even if it's just "dude you .....") I'll take it!!!!

I like the close up pix zipflint. Whats up with that lower o-ring? If you dont have an airtight tank seal, Foggers will leak out the air intake.

 

[dparker6]

I would definitely advise you to try it with the "useless" white O-ring around the juice channels. Also I think you should try not putting any wick into the juice channels. Just sit the wick flush up against the channels on the inside of the deck, but do not let any wick material into the channels, then put the O-ring on, and witness the greatness that is the fogger

 

[zipflint]

That's the plan, man.

I already know how (REALLY) great the Fogger is when set up right.
My first one is set up with a regular horizontal micro coil, with cotton going straight through and juuuust peeking out
the juice channels. On THAT build, the "useless" o-ring (as I call it) prevents wicking. At least, with the amount of cotton
that I use. I think I posted pics of that build a few times in this thread....

I would definitely advise you to try it with the "useless" white O-ring around the juice channels. Also I think you should try not putting any wick into the juice channels. Just sit the wick flush up against the channels on the inside of the deck, but do not let any wick material into the channels, then put the O-ring on, and witness the greatness that is the fogger

 

[jameth]

Guys I think I have figured out a foolproof way to build the fogger and get great flavor, no flooding, and the ability to chain vape until you cannot vape anymore without any dry hits. If there is interest I will post pictures of my build but it is very simple. The exact specifics of my build (wick materials etc..) are probably not as important as the general concept behind it.

The way I build it is very similar to the way you would build a kayfun lite or russian 91%, and by that I mean that you do not, I repeat DO NOT put the wick material into the juice channel slots. I tried many builds like that with and without the O-ring and although i never really had issues with flooding, I would dry hit fairly quickly after vaping and constantly had to close the airflow and pull to get juice in the wick.

Basically I use cotton with a micro-coil and instead of putting any wick at all into the juice channel slot, i leave a decent amount of cotton on either side of the the coil to wrap around into the empty spaces next to the coil on either side. i push the cotton up against the juice slot (on the inside of the deck assembly) but not into the actual slot at all. the cotton wraps around on either side into the empty space and I cut it so that it doesnt quite wrap around all the way to the terminal post. (this is to facilitate the completion of the next step)

Then I prime the cotton and the coil with ejuice, and I take a small strand of ekowool and wet it with juice, and stick each end of it into the open space that I left in between the cotton and the terminal posts, so that it nestles on top of the coil as a flavor wick. you may think that this will cut off airflow because basically the entire deck is covered with wick, but if you run with the airflow control wide open (after you fill the tank of course) then you get plenty of airflow and the wicking on this setup is insane. I got flooding when I tried this setup without the white O-ring (niagra falls) but after trying the setup with the O-ring in place, I have run 5 tanks rebuilding the wick each time and have gotten absolutely no flooding whatsoever.

With this setup i have taken 10+ second long draws..chain vaped for minutes at a time and never had a dry hit yet. If you are frustrated with your fogger please try this build because I had given up on it, until I watched some videos of people building the russian 91% after ordering one, and I thought why can't you do that same thing on the fogger.. let me know what you guys think and I can post pictures if you really need them.

TLDR : the key to this setup is to leave the juice channel slots COMPLETELY UNOBSTRUCTED and use the white O-ring to get maximum juice flow without flooding

This is more or less how I build mine, well with some variations in the process and materials, but the end result is the same, and it vapes like a monster. I posted a big post about it with lots of pictures over at the "BEST FOGGER V2 BUILD PICS" thread.

I use ekowool, I do NOT use that o-ring inside the tank over the wick channels. I also use a "flavor wick" of eco wool in the same manner.

When building, I actually do stick the ekowool through the channels, but after I screw on the chimney, I stuff it back into the cup so that there is virtually none coming out the channels into the tank, instead it is all bunched up inside the cup around the channels.

I don't think of the wick on top as a "flavor wick" (I know people call it that, but I don't think it really does anything to the flavor IMHO). I put it there to mop up the excess juice that may make its way into the cup, before it gets to the air hole.

This setup is amazing, it chain vapes till you can't take it any more, and I have had ZERO flooding or gurgling, and obviously no dry hits.

My latest build in a KFL is ALMOST as good, but not quite, and I don't know if it ever will be, simply because the Fogger can move a lot more juice a lot more quickly, by design.

 

[dparker6]

The "useless" O-ring does prevent wicking in my experience if you have wick in the channels, but if you take the wick out of the channels and just only have the wick up against the inside of the deck, then in my experience it floods unless you use the O-ring. It may be possible to have the juice channels completely unobstructed as I detail in my post, but without the O-ring and not have it flood but i havent been able to get it. I'm just saying to try it without the wick going into the slots at all but with the O-ring and see how it works on that build for you

 

[Strangebrew]

My latest build in a KFL is ALMOST as good, but not quite, and I don't know if it ever will be, simply because the Fogger can move a lot more juice a lot more quickly, by design.

Total agreement!

 

[bustabo]

Why the heck did they make the V3 23mm?!?!?

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[dwcraig1]

Why the heck did they make the V3 23mm?!?!?

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My guess would be because the Taifun is 23 mm, gotta look good on a Chi You

 

[Scope666]

My guess would be because the Taifun is 23 mm, gotta look good on a Chi You

yep, Taifun is 23mm, so is Chi-you and the Sigelei 8W

 

[jameth]

IMHO the real reason they made it 23 mm, is because the changes they made to protect the tank (addition of an outer SS sleeve over it, and a better sealing setup on the bottom that puts less stress on the glass itself), would have required them to shrink the diameter of the glass tank if they kept the 22 mm overall size.

I am guessing that it is easier for them to change the CNC machine settings for working with the steel, then it is to get the glass re-worked at different sizes.

Just a guess though...

I am planning on picking one up soonish...

 

[bustabo]

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[bingo6104]

Anyone know where to get the adjustable screw at?

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[bingo6104]

No one knows where to get them?

 

[eLCruz]

Anyone know where to get the adjustable screw at?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Which screw is that? On the 510 connection? If so it's the same as the fill hole screw. Take that to a hardware shop and find one with the same thread and size. Should be metric… :what:

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[bingo6104]

Which screw is that? On the 510 connection? If so it's the same as the fill hole screw. Take that to a hardware shop and find one with the same thread and size. Should be metric… :what:

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Yeah the 510 one..I'll try that

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[zipflint]

You could also just use that fill hole screw in the 510 connection, and plug the fill hole with a small, flat, rubber stopper or another screw.
As a temp-fix until you get another correct screw.