I suppose I could control air on the KFL with my Chi-you's air control ring, if it gets it's air from the 510?
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I suppose I could control air on the KFL with my Chi-you's air control ring, if it gets it's air from the 510?
It gets it from the side of the base similiar to the Fogger but without ac.
I had a Kafun 3.1 early on, it has ac, I don't miss it.
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DW i saw you posted a few pages back the small o-ring size for the fogger. Have you changed the large o-rings also? if so would you know the size and source?
stem o-ring = A 3 x 1 mm nitrile o-ring page 67 this thread. dwcraig1 thank you always for the information!!
stem o-ring = A 3 x 1 mm nitrile o-ring page 67 this thread. dwcraig1 thank you always for the information!!
Yeah, the only thing that I wouldn't like is if the draw was TOO airy... I tend to keep the fogger's air control almost closed, as I find it intensifies the flavor, and brings out more of the elusive top notes (or treble as I like to think of it)
I can pull some out of the spares bag and measure them.
The larger silicone one's, there are 4 in the bag, must be for the drip tip? ( Ahh, for the chamber to base)
RE: loose drip tip, replace the silicone one with a black nitrile one of the appropriate size if the loosness bothers you.
OK for the large black ones for the tank I come up with 13 mm ID, 1.5 mm cross section and 16 mm OD
A little higher priced than my usual Ebay seller
http://www.amazon.com/O-Ring-13-1-5-BN70-BAG/dp/B000QI1KUK
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yes, but i was being lazzy. I think the pluid is eating the Fogger large black o-rings, after 2 weeks of use. The nice green fluid, is turning a bit darker in the glass tank. I think i will look for some replacements, when i get time. Or just tear down the device and give it another cleaning on my next rebuild.
Look for silicone o-ring of that size. (I think they hold up against it).
Is the small silicone o-ring on the stem holding up?
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Yes, no o-rings have swollen, or leaked in the Fogger. Just something is changing fluid color, has to be the black o-ring. Will have a closer inspection when i tear it down and recoil, possibly this week.
I'm still using my original, smaller silicone o-ring for the chimney. By doing the "chimney trick" I've been able to make it survive MANY rebuilds so far (knock on wood)
This atty provides a great vape when setup just right, but it's a pita to get it there. I was on a vaping spree and bought a bunch of stuff, I'm overloaded on atty's so I'm selling the two that I have. I'll play with the hercules and terminator c that I have on the way.
So I haven't read the whole thread, but I did read about 50 pages of it. I'm not a rebuild expert, even though I have rewicked evod BCCs several times. Posting both my opinions and also looking for tips to improve my techniques since I'm new to RBA.
Got my fogger v2 last week. The build mine came with was weak vapor, moderately slow wicking, and not very much flavor. Coil was big loops and pretty uneven. No shorts and the ohms were around 1.9 IIRC, at least.
Tried rewrapping the SS roll wick that it came with. Must not have oxidized it enough because it was shorting to the wick, only the lead at the end was heating up, and my resistances were all over the place.
Gave up on the SS wick, and started a new build with 32g kanthal and silica. 8/7 wrap around a round toothpick, came in at 3.2 ohms. Used the individual strands from 3mm silica rope to give it a somewhat loose wick in the coil, trimmed to just touch the glass, and laid two strands on top, also trimmed to just touch the glass. I know from experience that BCC needs really short trimmed wicks.
Using my itaste svd, I hit it with the air all the way open at 7w on a fresh battery. Not much of anything. Choked the air to half way, and it's hitting better, but I'm getting intense throat hit without much flavor on 80/20 24mg vanilla butternut that does well in my davide/anyvape BCCs.
I can run it at 9w but it starts to dry up a little unless I suck harder than I am accustomed to, and flavor doesn't improve much. Heating time is reasonable even with such a long coil.
So my thoughts:
My air adjust ring is too loose. I might put a tiny drop of blue locktite on its threads to tighten it up so it holds its position.
It's a little difficult to get the coil under the posts due to the BCC skirt around the posts, but I found that putting toothpick in the coil to keep it straight and leaving long leads on the end lets you wrap it around the screw post, tighten the screw, and then wiggle the excess lead to break it off at the post.
Filling this thing is more of a hassle than it needs to be. If there was an air release hole on the top as well it would be a lot easier to fill without a syringe. As well, why not a tiny rubber stopper instead of a screw? I don't see the need for a screw on the fill hole. At least the tank is big so "portable refilling" isn't really necessary.
I have had no problems with burned hits at all, but I generally don't try to run crazy wattages and wick rates. I also have not had any problems with flooding, except right after the fill, I had to blow it out.
It feels kind of weird knowing if I pull on the thing the wrong way, fluid is going to go everywhere if the glass pulls off the bottom. This is probably mostly psychological, but I'm a little afraid to put it in my pocket.
I like that it's the same diameter as a full size tube mod like my svd or vamo, and it makes me wonder why kanger and anyvape don't pick up on this idea and make a "protank jumbo" or something, that has a huge capacity and is flush on a full size tube mod.
It's heavy. Really heavy. And a lot of the weight is athestics, since there's no need for the top part to cover so much of the tank. Seems to me they could have just made a disc to screw on the top to accept a 510 tip. Then they wouldn't have had to make a complicated stepped glass tank and also increased the capacity, and probably could have used slightly thinner glass if they didn't need to step the tank.
I still think it's an exciting innovation, but mostly because I think a lot of the ideas in it could be done better, and I'm hopeful to see what comes in the future along these lines.
Anyway I suspect my build is still far from ideal, but so far I have not gotten good flavor out of it.
Got my fogger v2 last week. The build mine came with was weak vapor, moderately slow wicking, and not very much flavor. Coil was big loops and pretty uneven. No shorts and the ohms were around 1.9 IIRC, at least.
Tried rewrapping the SS roll wick that it came with. Must not have oxidized it enough because it was shorting to the wick, only the lead at the end was heating up, and my resistances were all over the place.
Gave up on the SS wick, and started a new build with 32g kanthal and silica. 8/7 wrap around a round toothpick, came in at 3.2 ohms. Used the individual strands from 3mm silica rope to give it a somewhat loose wick in the coil, trimmed to just touch the glass, and laid two strands on top, also trimmed to just touch the glass. I know from experience that BCC needs really short trimmed wicks.
Using my itaste svd, I hit it with the air all the way open at 7w on a fresh battery. Not much of anything. Choked the air to half way, and it's hitting better, but I'm getting intense throat hit without much flavor on 80/20 24mg vanilla butternut that does well in my davide/anyvape BCCs.
I can run it at 9w but it starts to dry up a little unless I suck harder than I am accustomed to, and flavor doesn't improve much. Heating time is reasonable even with such a long coil.
So my thoughts:
My air adjust ring is too loose. I might put a tiny drop of blue locktite on its threads to tighten it up so it holds its position.
It's a little difficult to get the coil under the posts due to the BCC skirt around the posts, but I found that putting toothpick in the coil to keep it straight and leaving long leads on the end lets you wrap it around the screw post, tighten the screw, and then wiggle the excess lead to break it off at the post.
Filling this thing is more of a hassle than it needs to be. If there was an air release hole on the top as well it would be a lot easier to fill without a syringe. As well, why not a tiny rubber stopper instead of a screw? I don't see the need for a screw on the fill hole. At least the tank is big so "portable refilling" isn't really necessary.
I have had no problems with burned hits at all, but I generally don't try to run crazy wattages and wick rates. I also have not had any problems with flooding, except right after the fill, I had to blow it out.
It feels kind of weird knowing if I pull on the thing the wrong way, fluid is going to go everywhere if the glass pulls off the bottom. This is probably mostly psychological, but I'm a little afraid to put it in my pocket.
I like that it's the same diameter as a full size tube mod like my svd or vamo, and it makes me wonder why kanger and anyvape don't pick up on this idea and make a "protank jumbo" or something, that has a huge capacity and is flush on a full size tube mod.
It's heavy. Really heavy. And a lot of the weight is athestics, since there's no need for the top part to cover so much of the tank. Seems to me they could have just made a disc to screw on the top to accept a 510 tip. Then they wouldn't have had to make a complicated stepped glass tank and also increased the capacity, and probably could have used slightly thinner glass if they didn't need to step the tank.
I still think it's an exciting innovation, but mostly because I think a lot of the ideas in it could be done better, and I'm hopeful to see what comes in the future along these lines.
Anyway I suspect my build is still far from ideal, but so far I have not gotten good flavor out of it.
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I agree on a lot of your points... why they designed the air flow control ring the way they did is beyond me. The one on the Hercules (Ithaka clone) is MUCH better (it uses an o-ring for some friction and to better limit air flow)
My biggest grip with this device is getting wicks to keep up, inevitably I get dry hits as the tank run downs, REGARDLESS of wick medium... and I've tried Silica, Rolled Cotton, Cotton Yarn, and Stainless Steel Mesh so far. It's always GREAT at first, but after a few hours, and as the tank gets on the lower side, the dry / burnt hits start.
I'm going to try increasing the size of the wick holes to see if that helps.
I think they said you can leave the filler hole screw out to get increased flow... but it might leak then. Before I modified the wick holes, I'd probably try drilling a tiny hole in the top as an air vent. That way it would also be easier to fill, and if it didn't work you could always plug the hole with a drop of epoxy or something.
Get the glue ready 'cause for sure it's going to leak.
And to easily fill use these on your bottles:
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I did mean tiny, like PCB drill bit sizes, a #70 or something, 0.7mm. Do you really need an airtight vaccuum up there to keep it from leaking?
Actually, you just reminded me that I tried this once while getting dry hits, and it DID help. It's almost like there's a physics problem here, as when the tank gets lower, there's almost too much vacuum to let the juice go into the wicks. I have to do HARD primer pulls to get the wick wet in that scenario.
edit: going to try an experiment today and leave the fill screw in, but unturned about 1 turn, so maybe a tiny bit of air will be able to get past it... will report back
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I'm not a physics expert by any stretch, but I think the opposite is going on. As the juice moves down, the air space creates more "suction" ... trying to pull the juice away from the wick area... at least that's what I would think. Having it perfectly air tight would be required if you're having flooding, but have a little air escape would be necessary if you're getting constant dry hits.
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