is it me or does the description of the V3 sound exactly like the description of the V2? IDGI
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is it me or does the description of the V3 sound exactly like the description of the V2? IDGI
This is copied and pasted from the Kayfun manual, it directly applies here also.
The e-liquid is stored in the tank system which is located between the walls of the outer chassis and the evaporation
chamber. The evaporator chamber (3) has special grooves (2j) that serve as ducts for e-liquid to flow into the
evaporation chamber which is mounted to the atomizer base (2). The tank is sealed and air tight when the cap is
closed, so liquid does not flood the evaporation chamber through these grooves - air pressure inside the tank
prevents it.
Drinking bowl for birds works on the same principle: liquid does not come out of turned upside down water-filled
bottle if you deep bottle neck in a bowl of water. Water comes out of the bottle only when the level of liquid in the
bowl drops below the level of the bottle neck - then some amount of water will pour out, fill the bowl up the bottle -
and then stop again.
Another example: Take a straw, deep half of it vertically in the water, close the top opening of the straw with your
finger and pull it out of the water. Low air pressure at the top of the straw will hold water in it, but as soon as you
release your finger the sealing of the air bubble is broken, pressure equalizes and water discharges. Kayfun works on
the same principle.
When the user initiates the inhalation process, negative pressure is formed inside the evaporation chamber which
draws a small amount of e-liquid through the grooves (2j) into the evaporation chamber where it gets absorbed by
the wick located directly above these grooves. Low pressure is produced in the tank due to the transfer of E-Liquid to
the evaporation chamber. When the user has completed the inhalation process, the pressure in both the
evaporation chamber and the tank are normalized due to the air being passed back into the tank through the ducts.
During the inhalation process, the evaporation chamber receives liquid from the tank through the grooves (2j) and
after the inhalation the tank receives air from the evaporation chamber. This process can be visually observed as air
bubbles rising from the grooves in the tank (provided the transparent ring is being used).
E-liquid that entered the evaporation chamber during the inhalation is absorbed by the wick. The wick is saturated
and distributes E-Liquid over the coil. The coil heats up and "atomizes" liquid. At the next inhalation this cycle is
repeated until there is no more liquid in the tank or the battery is depleted.
The e-liquid is stored in the tank system which is located between the walls of the outer chassis and the evaporation
chamber. The evaporator chamber (3) has special grooves (2j) that serve as ducts for e-liquid to flow into the
evaporation chamber which is mounted to the atomizer base (2). The tank is sealed and air tight when the cap is
closed, so liquid does not flood the evaporation chamber through these grooves - air pressure inside the tank
prevents it.
Drinking bowl for birds works on the same principle: liquid does not come out of turned upside down water-filled
bottle if you deep bottle neck in a bowl of water. Water comes out of the bottle only when the level of liquid in the
bowl drops below the level of the bottle neck - then some amount of water will pour out, fill the bowl up the bottle -
and then stop again.
Another example: Take a straw, deep half of it vertically in the water, close the top opening of the straw with your
finger and pull it out of the water. Low air pressure at the top of the straw will hold water in it, but as soon as you
release your finger the sealing of the air bubble is broken, pressure equalizes and water discharges. Kayfun works on
the same principle.
When the user initiates the inhalation process, negative pressure is formed inside the evaporation chamber which
draws a small amount of e-liquid through the grooves (2j) into the evaporation chamber where it gets absorbed by
the wick located directly above these grooves. Low pressure is produced in the tank due to the transfer of E-Liquid to
the evaporation chamber. When the user has completed the inhalation process, the pressure in both the
evaporation chamber and the tank are normalized due to the air being passed back into the tank through the ducts.
During the inhalation process, the evaporation chamber receives liquid from the tank through the grooves (2j) and
after the inhalation the tank receives air from the evaporation chamber. This process can be visually observed as air
bubbles rising from the grooves in the tank (provided the transparent ring is being used).
E-liquid that entered the evaporation chamber during the inhalation is absorbed by the wick. The wick is saturated
and distributes E-Liquid over the coil. The coil heats up and "atomizes" liquid. At the next inhalation this cycle is
repeated until there is no more liquid in the tank or the battery is depleted.
Ya know Got Vape's always has the latest and the greatest even if it is a year later and twice the price.
I think you are right but maybe for the wrong reasons heh.
Air is compressible (and also "stretchable"), when you draw you are pulling negative pressure above the fluid, if there's a lot of air up there you should be able to draw more fluid into the wick more easily, because there's more air up there to expand, which is why people have flooding problems when they let their BCCs run low and they draw pretty hard on them. When you finish drawing, a bubble is drawn in through the bottom to equalize the pressure again, so that negative pressure isn't maintained long term.
You are having the opposite problem, as you correctly pointed out. So releasing the vacuum up there would help you out toward the end, but it may flood all over when it's full since you will never pull much negative pressure, your wicks will basically be "free running".
I have a theory though. The fogger has a unique geometry. When the fluid gets low, there's only a small "ring" of fluid exposed to the air. So if you think of the air above the liquid as a piston, you've just reduced the surface area of that piston from a large surface to a much smaller surface as the large center post emerges from the top of the liquid.
In essence, If you take 1 PSI and apply it to 1 square inch, you get 1 pound of force. If you apply 1 PSI to 0.25 inches area, it's only a quarter pound of pressure. Maybe the same thing happens in the fogger as the effective liquid surface area shrinks when it gets low.
I'm not entirely sure about this theory, but it may explain why you'd be less able to draw fluid when it gets low.
-BTW this theory is consistent with the baffles in the anyvape davide helping it not leak when it runs low.
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Actually your theory makes COMPLETE sense to me. So lessons learned, make sure you're air tight when you're full with liquid, and when you start getting dry hits, you have to either add more liquid at that point, or loosen your fill screw to make up for the lack of surface area. This totally makes sense to me now, and has been driving me crazy since I first got the device. Thanks for this!
Update on my current build. I put a big shot of 100% VG in there and it's mellowing out a little and I'm getting more flavor. Not sure if it's just the longer than normal coil or what, but my normal 24mg mix is way too strong in this thing, even though it's not producing a lot more vapor.
I have to report back that although the SS only build I did was great at first, I ended up having to go back to Silica. The SS was getting too hot where it meets the juice and was darkening (burning) ... leading to not so great taste after awhile. I have some Ekowool on the way so might try a hybrid like you guys have been doing next.
After trying just about every setup imaginable I have finally found a setup that is working reliably and I can replicate. I took the wicks that came with the device and have replicated them with a small change. It looks like they have a 1.5mm silica wick wrapped with SS mesh. I replaced the silica wick with 2 of the strands from a piece of Peaches and Cream cotton yarn and wrapped with 400 SS mesh with a 1.0 Ohm coil built with 30ga Kanthal. This actually gave me a little more mesh and better wicking with the yarn versus the silica. I'm now on my third fill and no leaking, no flooding, no dry hits and great flavor and vapor.
The nice thing is that I can make a long enough wick to cut it into 3 wicks so I have extras if needed.
The nice thing is that I can make a long enough wick to cut it into 3 wicks so I have extras if needed.
Got my fogger v2 today and my working setup so far is as follows. Installed small o-ring that came in bag under the 510 pin as suggested by Todd. Micro coil with 30 gauge kanthal around a 1/16th drill bit with a cotton wick. Trimmed the wick with just a little bit sticking out the sides (the wick seems to pull back in a bit once the tank is filled.) Burnt the first wick, second one I tried without the evap chamber o-ring and it seems to work just fine. Started getting dry hits, so I closed the air holes down most of the way. Tighter draw seems to produce more vacuum in the evap chamber to pull juice in. Been vaping like a champ so far. On a Magneto in 18350 mode, 2.0ohm coil. Not the high watt vape I'm used to, but producing a pretty satisfying saturated vape so far.
got my v2 in today and its like trying to take a draw through a solid pipe, tried the mesh with re-wrap of 30g and 28g, and micro coil and cotton. Tried with o-rings and without, loosened chimney. AFC open of course.
So far not impressed, anyone want to save me the 73 pages of reading as to why this thing is a POS! And i am not new to rebuildables, genesis, Kayfuns, drippers etc.
So far not impressed, anyone want to save me the 73 pages of reading as to why this thing is a POS! And i am not new to rebuildables, genesis, Kayfuns, drippers etc.
Got mine today also did a micro coil metered out to 1.9 put some cotton in there this thing is hitting like a champ
One trick we recently discovered in this thread, if you start getting dry hits towards the end of the tank, add more juice... it has to do with the fact that the air can't "pull" on the liquid as much when it get's low because of the width of the chimney.
It is indeed a very finicky device. I haven't quite figured mine out. I would definitely not recommend this to a friend
Check the flat insulator inside the AFC and make sure it isn't blocking the airholes. Open the breather holes with a needle file in the 510 pin if you need even more airflow.
Can someone tell me how to get it apart without destroying it? I have 3 Z-Atty' which are completely different, and I don't want to break the glass! I watched the video review on hpw to disassemble it and I have had no luck.
Any suggestions?
Where I am stuck is getting the tank off. It is brand new, never tried to use it or anything....
Any suggestions?
Where I am stuck is getting the tank off. It is brand new, never tried to use it or anything....
You just need to unscrew the skirt and pull off the glass. If it's new and sticky, rotating the glass with a tiny bit of eliquid in the chamber might help.
That's what I am trying to do, I cannot even get the top cap to come out (it moves up) the glass itself, won't budge...
I'll try some juice to maybe see if it will loosen it up.
I'll try some juice to maybe see if it will loosen it up.
As above but push in on threaded part that the cover screws onto while holding the glass firmly, it separate quite easily.
,
Ah NOT!
I have sent an email to VaperBeast where it came from, this puppy is glued together and I am not a little dOOd!
This thing is STUCK GOOD and I do not feel comfortable putting anything in it until I hear back from where I bought it...granted it's not a Z-Atty or a Taifun, but I don't want it being a paper weight either...
LOL
I must have got one that was in a container car during the height of the summer!
I have sent an email to VaperBeast where it came from, this puppy is glued together and I am not a little dOOd!
This thing is STUCK GOOD and I do not feel comfortable putting anything in it until I hear back from where I bought it...granted it's not a Z-Atty or a Taifun, but I don't want it being a paper weight either...
LOL
I must have got one that was in a container car during the height of the summer!
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Sounds like your oring is a little big or something. Just so you know the top metal disc is not supposed to come out of the glass with the unit together...the glass comes off with the top disc attached. Not sure if that's what you meant or what.
But I would definitely wait for VB's response - you might have gotten a bad unit or something.
But I would definitely wait for VB's response - you might have gotten a bad unit or something.
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