Fogger V2...WOW

[ccwaters]

Does everyone keep the orings between the base and chimney? It leaks like crazy for me w/o the oring. No dry hits, but I every 7 or so drags I will have to take a few drags with afc closed to re saturate the cotton.

My chimney O-ring has not been in use since my current build which is probably close to two weeks old, maybe 30ml through it, with very minor issues here and there. Only flooding I get is when I get lazy and fill it improperly, or If I'm using 100% VG, sometimes I use it with the top cap completely off (Super saturated, huge vapor, and taste) just the screw on shell in place, and then only a little very minor gurgle, easily cleared by tipping it, and hitting.

I have a second Fogger I/m going to experiment with once I get some more wick in.

Here is a shot of the build after a few tanks of Boba's, and just before a dry burn to clean it up a bit.

 

[DrMA]

So after enlarging the wick slot with a 3.5 mm bit I was only able to get a couple of good hits before it headed towards dry so I thinned the walls on the outside of the wick slots. This Fogger is now on par if not better than any atomizer that I own (Ithaka's, Terminators, kayfun's and even Aqua's at the same resistance). The air holes in the base and the center pin have also been enlarged.

Interesting idea. Can you give a little description of how you did it? Also, can you please post a clearer picture of the work?

 

[dwcraig1]

Well my Fogger made it through work, here it is with the 2nd tank of juice, the first tank was all PG and this one is 50/50

 

[steam cloud]

OK Guys here is my take on the fogger v2 fix. First let me thank all of you in the forum for your help. I borrowed ideas from many of you. The first thing we need to do is fix the short problem they come with. I took mine apart (not a easy thing to do) and used white thread seal tape around + post. I will use shrink tubing on it when I get to the hardware store. I got a small o-ring and place it on the other side of the disc so when and if it moves it will not short out. I also used Todd's o-ring trick on the 510 connection. The fogger comes with a o-ring on the chimney tube top. I also put one just underneath that as you will see in the video. I borrowed the video from you tube. Hope the young gentleman does not mind me sharing. I found a round tooth pick that fit on the wicking grove(about 5/64). Rapped 28ga 6-7 raps@ 1.3-1.4 ohms. than I wicked it like the video I talked about earlier. here is the link how i cotton wick my fogger v2 atomizer - YouTube .If link doen't work the title is"how i cotton wick my fogger v2 atomizer " I have used it for 5 days and re-wicked a few times, no dry hits no flooding. Just a great taste with great vapor. I hope you guy will get the same results as I did. But you have to start by fixing the short. Its not only dangerous I think it’s the cause for dry hits. Again thank you all

 

[Magma]

I am going to have to try this method as everything I have done so far has flooded constantly

 

[withravenoushunger]

Does the V3 let you remove the wick slot thing? I just cant get the wires to catch. This thing just makes me too frustrated to deal with it. What a stupid design flaw. This thing is useless to me for that reason. If the v3 lets you remove it, this thing would be great. As it stands right now, it's garbage. I'd rather pay $200 for a Taifun.

 

[Firestorm]

Nope - that's not an option that is new with the V3.

I wrap the leads after the coil around the shaft of the included screwdriver and trim them so they're like hooks. I then find it much easier to install, although I agree that it's a PITA.

 

[DrMA]

Does the V3 let you remove the wick slot thing? I just cant get the wires to catch. This thing just makes me too frustrated to deal with it. What a stupid design flaw. This thing is useless to me for that reason. If the v3 lets you remove it, this thing would be great. As it stands right now, it's garbage. I'd rather pay $200 for a Taifun.

I set the coil in the build area with some extra long ends. Use two straightened paper clips and insert into the coil post screw holes. Wrap the coil ends tightly around the paper clips. remove one paper clip at a time and replace the screws. A pair of fine-tipped tweezers help a lot.

 

[catalinaflyer]

2 weeks of my love/hate relationship with my Fogger V2 (supposedly a V2 but has 4 air holes so maybe a V3).

I have tried everything, mesh wrapped around cotton, 1mm ekowool with a second piece on top much like a PT2 coil, 2mm eko, 3mm eko, cotton, mesh around 1mm eko and sometimes great vapor followed by flooding, no vapor, average vapor followed by dry burns. I have actually had it in my hand with the window down ready to send it to the highway.

But, I just wasn't going to give in that easy, love the way it looks on top of my 134. I have even considered taking to the garage where I have a lathe and mill and machining it out to fit over another atomizer because I love the look. I had the whole day to waste yesterday so I set about either making it work or machining it into a cover for something else.

I think I finally got it and without any mechanical modifications to it. I wrapped a 2.2 ohm 28 gauge kanthal micro-coil around 2mm eko (which had worked before but ultimately started flooding). Before installing the coil I took a tiny piece of cotton and placed in the cavity below the coil, set the coil in and after honking up the posts added 2 more very small pieces of cotton on each side. Then I put the silicon o-ring back on, screwed the chimney down just snug then trimmed the exposed eko about 1 to 1.5 mm long out each hole. Filled it up, took a few dry hits with the air control closed to prime the wick and cotton and VALHALLA. I have been through 3 1/2 tanks since yesterday and pure vaping bliss, not a single gurgle, dry hit, mouth full of juice, just cool thick (50/50 juice) vapor. Flavor is good, throat hit is just where I like it and not a single problem!

 

[zipflint]

Patience does indeed pay off.

I went to re-wick my micro coil and subsequently did what (probably) everyone has done at least once already: I overstuffed the coil. LOOKED good. Primed it and gave it the gas (it's a .5 Ohm 28 gauge, I think 4 wraps but I could be wrong) and got that lovely blast of clean, saturated vapor. "Good to GO!" thought I.

Reassembled everything, and flooded it in my impatience. Let it drain overnight, didn't loose more than a few drops, but DRY HIT CITY. If I gave it a vicious primer pull, it would work. But that sucks. So I did it all over again and used about 1/2 as much cotton. Didn't have time to take photos (place is a madhouse, mom's going in for knee surgery on the 10th of Dec and is hellbent to get the house festooned with decorations) but I really REALLY should have.

Woulda been a good reference, for me at the very least.....

 

[catalinaflyer]

Didn't have time to take photos

Woulda been a good reference, for me at the very least.....

Well I didn't take any myself because I had no idea this was going to be the one that worked. Next time I tear into it I'll set up my studio camera and lights and get some (hopefully) good reference pictures and a video.

 

[Symmetry]

With cotton, I use enough so that without being rolled together, it's loose enough to easily slide through the coil - just before the point where it would require some pressure. You want the cotton not to quite fill the coil, since it expands so dramatically and holds juice in an extremely fine matrix of strands. Fluffier is better.

 

[StraightV8per]

I have not tried cotton yet, i am still working with the SS mesh that it came with. I pulled the original coil/wick out that it shipped with and rewrapped it myself by hand the way i used to do my silica builds with the ERA. The first 3 times i did this it was shorting out so much that i couldn't use it. The final time i made sure to wrap it fairly tight and was extremely careful about the spacing of the coils being symmetrical that they were all touching the wick equally around the entire thing. I have also gotten a lot better at hooking around the posts just right. It landed at 1.5ohm with 32ga Kanthal A1 4 wraps which i am not too upset about because that is fine for me at 4.5ish volts. My next issue was flooding, i filled it making sure to use a needletip and making sure that there was plenty of air flow in the filler hole and it flooded 3 times. I put the o-ring back on that goes at the base of the chimney at where the wicks poke out, filled it once more and i finally have vaping heaven. This thing is rocking now with no flooding. It seems to me that each unit is manufactured slightly differently so some chimneys can operate without the o-ring as they sit snug enough to block the flood. Mine obviously was not, so now i must by some of these o-rings because i seem to snap them every time i pull them off and try to get them back on. I have found it much easier to get the 0-ring back on by using the chimney as a guide instead of trying to install it with the coil/wick exposed. I did have just a tad of flooding in the beginning, you can see from the first pic where my o-ring is slightly off but then in the second pic where it is perfect on the other side. This is due to the way i have the wick sticking out in one side.

I think once i empty this tank and get the wick re positioned and get the o-ring on just right i will have no flooding.

 

[Phone Guy]

I agree that not all Fogger's are the same. Some guys can't open the bottom with the AFC...mine opened by mistake. LOL

That o ring for the chimney is easy to find in black at a hardware store. It's the little one at the top of the chimney that I can't find anywhere... the one that goes into the stainless cap. We are supposed to be able to twist the Pyrex tank and open/close the chimney to control the juice flow. But the o ring on mine is to thin, and all the black replacements I've found are WAY too thick. I've theory the juice flow works...but once it's filled, I've yet to get it working...without external help.

I will admit that when it's working, it's a beast. I'm super impressed with mine at this hour I've filled it twice using a needle and the top fill hole...no leak. Last night, leak city....... Had to open open the AFC portion, clean it out, then it worked again.

I think adding a o ring between the metal conductive air pole disc and the bottom of the coil chamber opposite the positive pin helps stabilize that disc from shifting, and the air pole going into the bottom of the coil chamber, stays straight in, keeping its seal...and I think that helps it not flood? But like I said...I'm hour to hour with this thing so far. when it works, it works great.
When it fails (floods/leaks) I'm ready to trash it!

Sent using my typewriter

 

[StraightV8per]

So true, these things are truly LOVE/HATE

 

[Phone Guy]

I'm leaning towards the HATE
Stupid thing leaks and floods the AFC more than it vapes.

Sent using my typewriter

 

[StraightV8per]

It's so stinking finicky, I did everything with perfect precision today and still lost an ml or 2 of high $ juice. Argh!!!!!

 

[jhev]

Reading this I wonder if I just got lucky haven't had any problems with my fogger in fact I love it so much I just ordered another one today lol

 

[Coldpunk]

Yeah I just lost half a tank... This thing isn't worth the time.

 

[elfy]

I agree that not all Fogger's are the same. Some guys can't open the bottom with the AFC...mine opened by mistake. LOL

That o ring for the chimney is easy to find in black at a hardware store. It's the little one at the top of the chimney that I can't find anywhere... the one that goes into the stainless cap. We are supposed to be able to twist the Pyrex tank and open/close the chimney to control the juice flow. But the o ring on mine is to thin, and all the black replacements I've found are WAY too thick. I've theory the juice flow works...but once it's filled, I've yet to get it working...without external help.

I will admit that when it's working, it's a beast. I'm super impressed with mine at this hour I've filled it twice using a needle and the top fill hole...no leak. Last night, leak city....... Had to open open the AFC portion, clean it out, then it worked again.

I think adding a o ring between the metal conductive air pole disc and the bottom of the coil chamber opposite the positive pin helps stabilize that disc from shifting, and the air pole going into the bottom of the coil chamber, stays straight in, keeping its seal...and I think that helps it not flood? But like I said...I'm hour to hour with this thing so far. when it works, it works great.
When it fails (floods/leaks) I'm ready to trash it!

Sent using my typewriter

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McMaster-Carr