Geeco 60w Temp Control Zero clone

[EDO]

Can some one let me know if theirs ever asks if it is a new atty or not? Mine doesn't ask. If it is a new atty with Kanthal it won't fire in TC mode. So there won't b e any problems there. But if TC is turned off and and you accidentally put an atty that has a nickel coil...what will happen? I tried it in low wattages and there wwon't be a problem but what if it is set at 60 watts?

I kind of like that it doesn't ask....to me it would be super annoying....but I was wondering what others think.

 

[TheBloke]

Can some one let me know if theirs ever asks if it is a new atty or not? Mine doesn't ask. If it is a new atty with Kanthal it won't fire in TC mode. So there won't b e any problems there. But if TC is turned off and and you accidentally put an atty that has a nickel coil...what will happen? I tried it in low wattages and there wwon't be a problem but what if it is set at 60 watts?

I kind of like that it doesn't ask....to me it would be super annoying....but I was wondering what others think.

It doesn't have the New Coil message. Yes, vaping Kanthal in TC mode is fine, it will still vape it as if it's a TC coil but because the resistance never rises, it also does not adjust the wattage at all much. If you have it set at 30W you might see it firing at 30, 30, 29.9, 29.8, 29.5, 30, 29.9 - something like that. No big deal at all.

If you put on a Nickel coil with TC turned off and vape then it it will just send full power to it. That's same as all TC mods. That will most likely ruin the coil (and possibly make it less safe to vape - Ni200 should not be taken above 600°F.) You should avoid doing that.

But because Kanthal-in-TC works fine, there's no reason I can see to ever turn TC mode off. Just leave it on and adjust wattage to suit the current build and you're good to go. Worst case you have two attys that need different temps and you forget to change the temp. That's much better than forgetting to turn TC back on and toasting the coil.

Yeah I like that it doesn't ask New Coil. It very rarely helps but it very often gets in the way - just one more pointless click. The only time it helps is if you remove the atty or turn the mod off, then put it back on when it's not cooled to base temperature - in that case saying New Coil will remember the correct base resistance. The rest of the time it's pointless. So it just means you should wait a few seconds and/or blow on your coils when putting them back on if they're heated.

And in any case, even if you do put an atty/coil on that's slightly too hot, the mod will refine the resistance down to the true level quite quickly. It only really matters when the coil is much too hot (eg reading 0.20 when it should be 0.10), but the coil won't stay in that state for more than a few seconds so it's pretty unlikely.

Here's my detailed review of my 50W Flask which operates identically to your mod (besides wattage difference). it mentions this point so might give you some other info as well: Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread | Page 176 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[EDO]

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

 

[seanol]

I got my Zero Modz in black from Fasttech today. Some notes:

Smaller and narrower than I thought. My Subtank is almost as tall!

TC does not seem to perform as well. I put the mod at 40w, temp at 300f and I could keep the fire button down and the subtank kept going, no temp protect.
I messed around with the settings and temp protect did come on at 220f. After that, I was able to dial it in. I did not check the nickel purity setting as I don't know how! That could be the cause as I saw that antother poster who got this mod had their's set at 45. Digging into the instrucions tomorrow.

The 510 pin is reverse thread and mine was locked up as received. I had to disassemble the mod to get to the pin. Once I got it to move it was fine.

The cover seems to be held by pressure from the top and bottom screws. If I set the screws to where the cover comes off I have an ugly gap. If I tighten the gap by tightening the screws I can't get the cover off. As this takes only one battery this makes it second to the VF.

Overall I like it as a back up to my VF. Single battery and the black coating that shows everything relegate it to second fiddle.

Now if I could get a wood cover like the non TC ones I would be complete. Any one know where they are sold reasonably?

Thanks,
Sean

 

[seanol]

Figured out Nickel Purity, Just hold all 3 buttons down! Mine is at 70 as delivered so I am not sure why it is not as sensitive as my VF. I will keep working with it to see what happens.

 

[roxynoodle]

Don't buy the wood body Hotcig Zero. Most of us who did received one with a non working 510. Mine was way over to the side so no way to connect to an atty. I returned it. It was sad because it was initially my suggestion they make it.

The SXKs are fingerprint magnets. You could cover the sleeve with a 3M sample like a wrap.

Also, press fitting your sleeve will help it fit better. Put the sleeve on a table and give it a couple firm presses.

 

[TheBloke]

@seanol That's very interesting if you're getting different TC results from your SXK Zero as you are your SXK flask. One difference could be that you have sprung 510 on the VF and adjustable on the Zero, so maybe the Zero is not getting as good a connection.

But 300°F is pretty low. We're talking Ni200 here? You normally set a (juiced) ST Mini with ni200 coil to 300°F? Some attys with resistance issues sometimes need setting that low, but it's not a common setting and I didn't realise the ST Mini needed it that low. And 220° is nothing at all, I'd expect that to be a very anaemic vape on any atty at all.

So you vaped at 300f and it didn't flash TP and you got dry hits? Maybe I'm just not used to the Subtank Mini (I assume you mean the RBA base and not Ni200 coils? Because with coil heads they normally need a high setting, 500°F+ even)

(Or did you mean 300°C / 220°C ?)

Now you know how to check NP you could double check your flash. Should be 70 as well but just to rule that out as a difference. 70 is what you want by default for Ni200.

If there is still a noticeable difference in TC on the Zero as on the Flask my initial thought is connectivity - the adjustable 510 is giving a different resistance than you're used to with the spring pin. You should be able to expect same TC performance from Zero to VF so I'd look at 510 as first suspect.

Are you seeing any differences in resistance readings between the Zero and the VF? Both of them you can expect to be reading lower than most/all of your other mods, but hopefully they should read roughly the same compared to each other.

 

[seanol]

@TheBloke,
I think the problem was oxidation. My first coil on the flask worked right away. I tried a contact coil with the Zero and didn't realize that I needed to let it oxidize. Its working now.

I have a Subtank, not a mini. I set it at 300f to test as I did not want to burn the rayon. I was firing it and watching it as you can't see the screen during operation easily. I did get the nutty flavor of an impending dry hit so that is why I tested it. After vaping it a while it started working.

A steep learning curve but I'm getting it. I did check the 510 and made some adjustments. Everything is good now. I am keeping an eyey on your TC wire thread as NI200 is a pain. Any dual coil RTA is a difficult build and I hate non contact coils!

Can you pulse contact coils and get NI200 to work?

Sean

Edit: Resistance between the two mods is identical.

 

[TheBloke]

Glad it's working now!

No, my understanding is that Ni200 won't ever work reliably as contact coils. And you don't want to pulse it because it can break down above 600°F. Whether this actually happens after a few pulses is debatable, but it's not worth the risk especially as it won't help with contact anyway.

Titanium, Stainless Steel or Resistherm is the way to go!

 

[TheBloke]

@seanol - important, can you confirm if your new Zero has a "New Atomizer Up/Same Down" question? (And indeed your Flask, but I'm pretty sure the flask won't)

Thanks

 

[nelsonm64]

@seanol - important, can you confirm if your new Zero has a "New Atomizer Up/Same Down" question? (And indeed your Flask, but I'm pretty sure the flask won't)

Thanks

my rdna I just received has this message where as my zero doesn't. newer version I presume....

 

[TheBloke]

my rdna I just received has this message where as my zero doesn't. newer version I presume....

Awesome, thanks! This means you shoujld have accurate resistance reading as well.

I just quoted your post into my Beyond Ni200 thread (you should have an alert), you might want to read that to see how you can use Nickel Purity on both your SXK mods - but particularly the new rDNA which will be more accurate - for vaping on better wires than Ni200.

Oh, and you probably want to turn Nickel Purity down to 62 on your rDNA. It's still defaulting at 70 which I am almost sure was done to counteract the low resistance of the first batch. 62 should be the right value. Much more info in the thread I mentioned.

 

[EDO]

@seanol

I had the same thing happen with me. I would hold the fire button and it would never come close to hitting temp protection. The problem with nickel wire is that everything has to be perfect since any small differences in resistance will cause the unit to not behave optimally. One thing I noticed is that the 510 connection has to to be rock solid. Second is the connection at the posts have to be rock solid. The third is when I set up I dry burn the coils once and get all the coils glowing evenly...after that the temp protection works perfect. In other words chances are if your mod is acting funny it is most likely user error at least that was the case for me.

 

[TheBloke]

@EDO do you have the New Atomizer Up/Same Down message on your mod?

 

[seanol]

@EDO, Thanks! Between you and @TheBloke I have it rocking. One thing I have found this week:

I tried TC mods and Mechs with RDA's. I will never go back to my Istick50w!

I get RDA flavor out of my Goliath RTA but it leaks all over from the air holes.

I can't get close to RDA flavor out of my Original Subtank.

10mg nic is too high in everything but the Subtank. I am at 6mg in everything else and the flavor is off the charts!

I tried a vendor liquid (Nicoticket) for the first time. I will not be using my B&M juice as much anymore. What a difference good juice makes!

Now I have 4 mechs and two TC devices with 3 RTA's and 5 RDA's, all clones. If I buy one more thing I will be single! I love my setups and thank all of you for the help you have given me.

Regards,
Sean

 

[seanol]

@TheBloke,
Both mods will give that message:

If I leave them for a long time

If I unscrew the RTA

Otherwise they see the resistane and vape.

Sean

 

[EDO]

@EDO do you have the New Atomizer Up/Same Down message on your mod?

Definitely not.

 

[ddarlington24]

I really love how these resin acrylic ones look that purple is calling my name it will be my first Tc mod so that should be interesting