Maybe you could drain and remove tank and mouth piece and do another test fire to make sure you don't have a hot spot?
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Would that be an area where the coil is not making contact with the wick?
Possibly.... With a wet wick, you should not see any part of the resistance wire glowing in one spot more than the rest of it, if at all. Especially in the first second or so of hitting the button and if you are using a reasonable voltage setting for your coil. If you mentioned what APV your using, I missed it. I don't have a Penelope yet but it is my understanding that the included pre-made resistance/non-resistance wire should yield about 1.5 to 1.8 ohms. Others may not agree with me, but that would limit me to no more than 4 volts.
My wick was wet, and I did see the wire glowing red when I fired my device. Although I can't remember if it was the entire resistance wire. My coil came out at 1.5 ohms and I was using my vmax set at 3.0 volts (The vmax typically feels like more than what it is set at). For now, I am waiting for some materials to arrive and I will try again with some cotton wick and 34 gauge resistance wire.
ive never used it but it cant be any different that the Ody in tank mode, i actually have used the ody with just the mouthpiece screw and dripping.
The vapor experience should be the same and the rebuild way is the same way.
I just got my Penelope today and have failed to make a coil that works with 2 attempts. I'll put it on the Provari to check it and get an Ao on the oHms and get an E1 error when I try to fire it. I realized this would be a learning curve so I'm not frustrated, but I don't want to keep making the same error over and over if someone has an idea what's wrong. I've been watching the pbusardo review on making one for an Odysseus and feel like I'm doing it the way he is, but obviously I'm not. One question I have is about the ends of the NR and resistance wire that are joined together. Are those supposed to stay inside the ceramic cup or come down into the channels or does it not matter?
House mouse, the NR strands should in the channels.
Keep in mind that you have to wrap the NR that goes on the ceramic channel to the nut, and the one that runs on the metal channel you just cut it at the end of the channel and cover it with the wick.
Hope it helps and sorry for the english
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Keep in mind that you have to wrap the NR that goes on the ceramic channel to the nut, and the one that runs on the metal channel you just cut it at the end of the channel and cover it with the wick.
Hope it helps and sorry for the english
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Roxxette, thank you! I think I was wrapping the wire from the metal channel around the nut instead of the ceramic channel. I have a 3.0 ohm coil now that vapes great!!
And your English is fine by the way.
And your English is fine by the way.
Roxxette, thank you! I think I was wrapping the wire from the metal channel around the nut instead of the ceramic channel. I have a 3.0 ohm coil now that vapes great!!
And your English is fine by the way.
Yeah i had the same problem when i got the Ody first
i figured it was worth to mention it, glad i could help and btw if you take it all apart when you clean always check if the nut unscrew when you take it out, i always put a little vaseline on the o-ring down the nut so it goes in and out easy 
Scott's review of the Odysseus REVIEW OF THE ODYSSEUS REPAIRABLE ATOMISER - YouTube. Watch it for how to make a wire/wick. He breaks it down and shows how easy it really is.
When you run your NR wire down the channels, it's critical that the positive one is in the ceramic channel. Then cover it with the wick in the ceramic channel.
Cut the negative lead (the one in the metal channel) at the base of the unit. It must not be long enough to touch the positive post.
When you run your NR wire down the channels, it's critical that the positive one is in the ceramic channel. Then cover it with the wick in the ceramic channel.
Cut the negative lead (the one in the metal channel) at the base of the unit. It must not be long enough to touch the positive post.
Some non-ebay sources of wire. Ebay might be a good price but, unreliable.
32GA Kanthal resistance wire...what I use.
30GA 999 Fine Silver Dead Soft non-resistance wire
30GA Nickel non-resistance wire
I've used both the Nickel and silver NR wire. They both work. The nickel is a little stiffer but, I've never had it break off on me and I have had that happen with the silver when I bent it too much.
So far the best wick I've used is 100% cotton yarn boiled to remove the sizing. i have some #1 candlewick on the way to try. I'll boil that too.
I don't notice a metal taste with Kanthal but, some people do. If you're one of them, try nichrome. That's easier to get than Kanthal but, the Kanthal is reputed to be tougher.
32GA Kanthal resistance wire...what I use.
30GA 999 Fine Silver Dead Soft non-resistance wire
30GA Nickel non-resistance wire
I've used both the Nickel and silver NR wire. They both work. The nickel is a little stiffer but, I've never had it break off on me and I have had that happen with the silver when I bent it too much.
So far the best wick I've used is 100% cotton yarn boiled to remove the sizing. i have some #1 candlewick on the way to try. I'll boil that too.
I don't notice a metal taste with Kanthal but, some people do. If you're one of them, try nichrome. That's easier to get than Kanthal but, the Kanthal is reputed to be tougher.
Have y'all seen the new supplier here ?
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rum/319912-silicawicks-com-grand-opening.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rum/319912-silicawicks-com-grand-opening.html
I just discovered that COV has these back in stock so I just placed an order. With the coupon code it was only $110. Woot!!!
Hmmm.... I must have got the last one/only one available. After placing my order, they show it to be out of stock again. I wonder if they really have one to send me? I guess I will find out in a few days.
I just received a order of wick and wire from them yesterday. The wick size and looks just like the stuff COV sent me with there Penolope.
Wonder when COV will be back up and running with stock? Imeo is on vacation until Aug 21st so I'm assuming it won't be until he gets back. Been stalking COV's site for a week and nada. Thank God I got lucky and found a Penelope (brand new) in the for sale threads. Should be here by Saturday!!!!! All my wick and wire is waiting.
BTW: Carl from silicawicks.com is awesome! Great service and fast shipping. Definately my goto from now on for RBA supplies!
BTW: Carl from silicawicks.com is awesome! Great service and fast shipping. Definately my goto from now on for RBA supplies!
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I have to say that out of all the systems and combinations I have tried thus far, the ProVari + Penelope is by far the most satisfying vape I have ever had. I have been wrapping coils with silver dead soft no res and Kanthal A1 36 g for resistance, usually resulting in a 7-8 coil 2.0-2.5 ohm atomizer that I vape at 4.5-5.2 depending on the flavor ejuice I use. I have also been leaving the mouthpiece off and plugging my ridgemont ss drip tip in the opening, which makes the Penelope a marvelous dripping atty. I have also fabricated a way to drip straight through the drip tip without removing it. For those of you who have tried this, you will know that the liquid has a hard time (usually impossible) making it to the atomizer head. I used a tube cutter and removed the atomizer end of a extra long HH357 (only because it died on me), connected my drip tip to it, and inserted it where the mouthpiece goes. It gets a few mm away from the atty head, and the liquid goes down the inside walls of the drip tip, down the walls of the empty 510 atty tube, and directly onto the coil. Will post a pic or two if anyone likes. 
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