Gotvapes Stardust: How to re-wick and replace the coil

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iuseaspork

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So... I tried this:

IMG_20120406_225114.jpg

Its a flat SS mesh wick. I cut down the silicone cup to accommodate it, but made sure that it's pressing down on the wick pretty good. Over the wick I have 4 wraps of 32 kanthal that made about 2 ohms. This has improved airflow and wicking so far. I'm only 15 minutes in to testing. I will report back with my findings.

BTW... I torched and dipped 4 times AND burned off eliquid 4 times to make sure it is oxidized.
 

iuseaspork

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So... I tried this:

View attachment 90003

Its a flat SS mesh wick. I cut down the silicone cup to accommodate it, but made sure that it's pressing down on the wick pretty good. Over the wick I have 4 wraps of 32 kanthal that made about 2 ohms. This has improved airflow and wicking so far. I'm only 15 minutes in to testing. I will report back with my findings.

BTW... I torched and dipped 4 times AND burned off eliquid 4 times to make sure it is oxidized.


It's flooding. I think I know why, but don't have much time to work on it. when I folded it, it didn't end up perfectly rectangular. This left a small hole on the bottom of one of the sides. I'm pretty sure this could be fixed into a pretty good system.
 

Cyrus Vap

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I had a strange experience like that as well

Just guts, usual method, I got 2.0 ohms (2.3 minus the leads)

Filled with juice and assembled, I got 3. something

Finished the juice, measured it assembled, got 2.3 minus the leads = 2.0

I attributed the cookiness to the juice...!?

Charlz was the reading steady or running all around?
 

Charlz

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If it runs all around, it usually means one of the wires isn't seated securely. It may be there enough to work but you may not get an accurate reading. Could mean the wire went into the post rather than between the post and silicone (If I had a nickle......you only get so many tries with the sharp metal slots wrecking the wick)
I measured it before fill. I've gotten a higher reading sometimes too though when filled. I'll check again
 

Big Screen D

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The reason for the added resistance is usually because of poor contact of the coil to the body.

What I've found that works well is to twist in at the ends of the coil some no resistance wire. So when the coil is finished, what you have is all of the heated part of the coil is on the wick with the 0 resistance part extending down to it's contact points.

Does two things. The silicone no longer gets burned where the coil wire touches it, and with the wire now being thicker where it does make contact makes a much more sure connection.
 

Big Screen D

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Yep, just twist em together at one end then cut off the excess 0 ohm where it meets the nichrome, then cut the twisted together section so it's about 1/2" long. Measure out how long you want the resistance length to be from where the wires meet, then do the other side at that point.

I hear ya on the CE2 thing. I've spent way to much time fiddling with these. But, I've got this down pretty good now.

If all I were doing is extending the life of this $5 carto, I'd not bother. I make em even better than new.
 

Njt07

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I found out that I can pull the coils from my wife's DCC cartos after she switches them out about every 2 weeks or so. Each DCC has enough wire for two coils in the stardust!

I also found that with the 1.5 ohm DCC, about 5 wraps with the excess snipped off works great on my kgo batt, no idea what the ohm reading is cause I don't have a multimeter...

I tried to use two wicks and had flooding issues, but then again I had the upper wick longer than the stock wick.
 

Cyrus Vap

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The added no resistance wire is a great idea!

Only issue I can see is, if its copper wire, do we want it bathing in juice?

I know its in the center tube, in principle, it shouldn't really be touching much juice, but still

I also haven't had much success with a double thick wick. It makes it really hard for me to get the resistance I want, and I usually ended up destroying the wick on the 2nd or 3rd try getting it down into place.
 
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