Gotvapes Stardust: How to re-wick and replace the coil

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curlyballs

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Best mod I've found for these clearomizers is to drill 4 small holes into the base. Drill bit size that I use is 1/16.

Wish I could take a pic right now but my camera is screwed.

Anyhow, the holes are about 1.5mm below where the clear plastic starts. So, it's drilling through the metal band, then the plastic on the inside. Another way to describe it is just above the large threads of the EGO battery, when screwed on.

This completely eliminates any tight draw on a stardust. So far I've done this to 3 with the same result.

If you like the draw a bit tighter, try drilling 2 holes instead of 4.

This can be done without taking apart the stardust, in about 5 minutes!

I'll post a pic when I'm able.


Edit - here's the pic

http://i.imgur.com/Q2hZl.jpg
 
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Cyrus Vap

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Going to attempt this. Already got my materials. One question: do I need to boil the Odysseus wick from COV? Earlier in the thread this was suggested for McMasters, but I'm wondering about the COV wick.

Also, is there any worry about the silica fibers? like health worry?

I don't think anyone knows the answer, though its a great question. If you want to contribute to the discussion and experiments, please come play :) That invites for everyone...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html
 

Cyrus Vap

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WRT to previous posts about wonky changing ohms on these things

So I finally got my multimeter/multimeter skills consistent, so I don't think this is a variable here. I'm using alligator clips on everything now, or placing a lead if alligator clips dont work, stable on the desk and firmly against the contact. The clips ohm at 0, so I'm assuming they change nothing.

So I set up a coil, and placed the leads on the wire right where you'd expect them to contact the proper points (not quite at the END, but a little higher). 2.0 ohms.

Then I assembled the stardust (no plastic shell)....2.4 ohms

I scratched my chin...hmmmm

I pushed the wick down flush as far as it would go... 2.0 ohms

AH HA

I pulled the wick up as far was it would go (in steps) without breaking contact

3.0 ohms

I think this explains the mystery of how I start out with a 2.4 ohm stardust and end up with 3.0 or whatever. I tend to do post adjustments on the one hand (for different batts). Couple this with the initial assembly/adjustment step, and there's an explanation.

Now those are kind of big variances for millimeter distances, I know, so maybe I'm full of it. But I was able to consistently reproduce this a few times, so I think its legit. And this was with 32 gauge, so a little bit goes a long way.

Just thought I'd share
 

Startle

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I think this explains the mystery of how I start out with a 2.4 ohm stardust and end up with 3.0 or whatever. I tend to do post adjustments on the one hand (for different batts). Couple this with the initial assembly/adjustment step, and there's an explanation.

Now those are kind of big variances for millimeter distances, I know, so maybe I'm full of it. But I was able to consistently reproduce this a few times, so I think its legit. And this was with 32 gauge, so a little bit goes a long way.

Just thought I'd share

Thanks for sharing and it's definitely a legitimate observation.

Electricity always takes the path of least resistance so the point of contact of your wire to the negative terminal will dictate the overall resistance in the circuit as will the positive contact point. So if your connector is 1 inch and the first point of contact is a half inch it will have less resistance than if the first point of contact (pull up) is a quarter inch.

Your observations are definitely in line with the known laws of electricity!

Thanks for the info and Vape On!
 

Charlz

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Going to attempt this. Already got my materials. One question: do I need to boil the Odysseus wick from COV? Earlier in the thread this was suggested for McMasters, but I'm wondering about the COV wick.

Also, is there any worry about the silica fibers? like health worry?

I always boil and torch. You don't know what has come in contact with the wick during manufacture and handling. Silica safety is unknown. The worst case scenario is known but not if we are using it in a manner that would cause it. If you are concerned, check out the thread Cyrus pointed to and feel free to add your own experiments.
 
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RockinRobbieSF

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I got a couple of those a week or so ago, the only problem is they don't come with the chrome band for the bottom. I broke one of mine getting it off and the other one is super glued. Don't know yet if they're going to leak. Oh well.....

I've been using the Stardusts without the band on the bottom. Makes the draw a LOT easier and cleaning/rebuilding a cinch. I haven't had problems with them coming off or leaking, though you do need to be careful not to manhandle it.
 

Robert T

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Thanks Robbie, good to know. I think the bands being to tight is what caused most of the cracking. On mine that's where the cracks started.

I've been using the Stardusts without the band on the bottom. Makes the draw a LOT easier and cleaning/rebuilding a cinch. I haven't had problems with them coming off or leaking, though you do need to be careful not to manhandle it.
 

ShogaNinja

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The cheapest places to get Stardusts (eGo Vision Clearomizers) are www.litecigusa.net and AltSmoke.com | Personal Vaporizers | Electronic Cigarette | Ecigs | Your one stop shop!
Altsmoke has a coupon code that only works when you are logged in. FACE10LIKE for 10% off. It's located in Ohio so if you are Ohioan like me you will have to pay taxes. The tax rate in Ohio is 6.5% so I still saved 3.5% over litecigusa.net's price.
Something to consider. I am not sure where litecigusa is located either, so that may be a factor as far as cost and shipping times are concerned.
 

zoiDman

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