GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

[perseas]

I was actually wondering the same thing, but for the Spheroid. Did the numbering resume with v2, or did it start over at 0001?

GP SPHEROID started with a prototype on February 2012, it became available as v1 on May-June 2012, and on September 2012 the same numbering continued to v2.
The v1 uses a cable inside the base, while the v2 is fully mechanical.

 

[Tezcatlipoca]

GP SPHEROID started with a prototype on February 2012, it became available as v1 on May-June 2012, and on September 2012 the same numbering continued to v2.
The v1 uses a cable inside the base, while the v2 is fully mechanical.

Any idea where the numbering started on the v2? The other day I ordered another one off the classifieds that was advertised as a v2, but I thought the number was perhaps a little low. I don't remember what it was exactly, but I believe it was in the low 600's. It should be here tomorrow.

 

[perseas]

Any idea where the numbering started on the v2? The other day I ordered another one off the classifieds that was advertised as a v2, but I thought the number was perhaps a little low. I don't remember what it was exactly, but I believe it was in the low 600's. It should be here tomorrow.

Between 500-600, you can check the button, if it hasn't an air hole, it is probably v2. The button of v2 is improved, its axis has a slight protrusion at the base to hold better the spring.

 

[bots]

is the SnP also suitable for the Cisco's? guess no, but asking anyway for sure

 

[negrete35]

The v2 serial numbers begin around 150-160 and up to 500-600. It stopped on July of 2012 and started again after 6 months as v2.1.
The differences between v1 and v2 are about the button and the metal of construction for a number of batches. The v1 is made from 304 SS, the v2 is made from 303 SS.
The button of v1 has an air hole and its axis, the firing pin hasn't a socket for the spring, like v0. There is an initial v0 without engraving, 400-500 units circulated in Hellas and Germany from September 2011 - April 2012 and is made from aluminium or 303 SS with brass top cap and brass switch.

Thank you Perseas. I will be tracking down a few more Paps.


Sent from a happy vaper.

 

[qorax]

is the SnP also suitable for the Cisco's? guess no, but asking anyway for sure

The SnP is a "Carto-tank"... like any other such tanks, which takes-in a "Cartomizer" to vaporize the e-liquid in it. It's just a 'tank' like the Phiniacs, IBTs etc. And similar to what we'd do with a Boge F16 -- we drop-in a Carto (or a Diver or a Killer), that simple it is.

 

[bots]

got that - thanks...

 

[negrete35]

got that - thanks...

There is a thread somewhere here that talks about using an HH357 in a carto tank. There are a couple different ways that have been successful. Search for and you should be able to find it. One way is similar to the Caravela drip tank in that you drill a small hole at the top of the barrel and operate it the same way that you would the drip tank. The other was done by JCWest and he just punched it like a carto and stuffed a little bit of mesh in the holes. So if you did it either of those ways, the yes you can use it as an atomizer tank.


Sent from a happy vaper.

 

[synic]

There is a thread somewhere here that talks about using an HH357 in a carto tank. There are a couple different ways that have been successful. Search for and you should be able to find it. One way is similar to the Caravela drip tank in that you drill a small hole at the top of the barrel and operate it the same way that you would the drip tank. The other was done by JCWest and he just punched it like a carto and stuffed a little bit of mesh in the holes. So if you did it either of those ways, the yes you can use it as an atomizer tank.


Sent from a happy vaper.

Ive actually been wondering if you'd even need the mesh in the holes. Just one hole, without mesh, it seems like it'd work just like the Diver, on atmospheric pressure.

You'd probably have to experiment a bit with the hole size, but I bet it would work with any 510 atomizer...

 

[negrete35]

Ive actually been wondering if you'd even need the mesh in the holes. Just one hole, without mesh, it seems like it'd work just like the Diver, on atmospheric pressure.

You'd probably have to experiment a bit with the hole size, but I bet it would work with any 510 atomizer...

Yeah, probably. I have never tried either method. I just remember reading about it.


Sent from a happy vaper.

 

[synic]

Get one of these beauties and a regular sized 510 atomizer would work in a regular sized carto tank: 510 Atomizer Tube Extender - Avid Vaper

I love the AMP tank, but honestly it's got a few issues. If you can get a 510 atomizer to work as well as the Diver in just a carto tank... well. That'd be pretty sweet.

Edit: I'm totally going to try this when I get home. I will report my progress.

 

[negrete35]

Get one of these beauties and a regular sized 510 atomizer would work in a regular sized carto tank: 510 Atomizer Tube Extender - Avid Vaper

I love the AMP tank, but honestly it's got a few issues. If you can get a 510 atomizer to work as well as the Diver in just a carto tank... well. That'd be pretty sweet.

Edit: I'm totally going to try this when I get home. I will report my progress.

Good. Keep us posted. I would definitely like to know how we'll it works.


Sent from a happy vaper.

 

[TroyDestroy]

The v2 serial numbers begin around 150-160 and up to 500-600. It stopped on July of 2012 and started again after 6 months as v2.1.
The differences between v1 and v2 are about the button and the metal of construction for a number of batches. The v1 is made from 304 SS, the v2 is made from 303 SS.
The button of v1 has an air hole and its axis, the firing pin hasn't a socket for the spring, like v0. There is an initial v0 without engraving, 400-500 units circulated in Hellas and Germany from September 2011 - April 2012 and is made from aluminium or 303 SS with brass top cap and brass switch.

perseas,
wasnt there a change in the font of the "S" on the paps between v1 and v2 making it easy to spot visually? maybe v2 and v2.1?

 

[perseas]

perseas,
wasnt there a change in the font of the "S" on the paps between v1 and v2 making it easy to spot visually? maybe v2 and v2.1?

Yep! You're right, as I have mentioned in the past there is a different S, but if the tube belongs to a different version mod with different serial number, the identifier is always the switch. The difference between v2 and v2.1 is the absence of the c-clip for the latter version and the telescopic post of course.

 

[TroyDestroy]

Yes, I have mentioned in the past that there is a different S, but if the tube belongs to a different version mod with different serial number, the identifier is always the switch.

gotcha. thanks for the clarification

 

[perseas]

perseas

I just recieved the longer center screw. It works great, allows me to use my 18500 tube without a fuse. I want to thank you for such great service and for making available these amazing works of art. I have been vaping a long time and have been through a lot of kit, but not until the GP Paps and spheroid could I define what vaping is to me. I look forward to where your passion takes us in the future. Thanks again my friend....you are the MAN !

Thank you Sir for your praise, I'll do my best to honour your appreciation for our mods!

 

[Jacoji]

Ooh! Pretty. Shiny.

 

[Ash2Ashes]

the lux models are looking nice perseas

 

[negrete35]

Ooh! Pretty. Shiny.

Think I might have to try and track one them kay..fun thingies down. Sure does look purdy.

 

[iPoosk]

So I got my 2.5 paps a little over a week ago and I've noticed it doesn't even hit as hard as some of my modified china mechs. All the contact points are clean but it's still performing less than stellar. Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking there could possibly be some gunk down in the switch that's interfering with the ground but thought I'd ask before prying out the derlin insulator