And I've done this so mny bloody times, its why I've "programed" myself to chuck a fully charged 18650 batt in my bag each morning,
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And I've done this so mny bloody times, its why I've "programed" myself to chuck a fully charged 18650 batt in my bag each morning,
I only use nr-r-nr wire (with the help of a DIY welder), the benefit being that you can target a specific resistance. If you use only resistance wire you're likely to not have enough wraps for LR vaping (if that's your thing - I like 1.3 to 1.5 ohms). Additionally, you're likely to heat up the ceramic, tube, nest, and o-ring more, but I don't think that you'll damage anything and it should be vapeable.
Finally Got it Ready ...
2mm Silica, two strands - one longer in upwards "U" shape.
30g Kanthal, 4 wraps, 1.2Ω. No NR wire.
2mm Silica, two strands - one longer in upwards "U" shape.
30g Kanthal, 4 wraps, 1.2Ω. No NR wire.
Has anyone managed to fill their SnP without the diver leaking from the bottom? If so, how?
I can only fill it by pushing the Diver down a bit before exposing the filling holes.
I can only fill it by pushing the Diver down a bit before exposing the filling holes.
This is happening due to Dive's air hole, you have to seal it to keep the internal pressure intact, or lift up the SnP slightly to cover the air hole or use the cartodriver as a seal during refilling. A simple cartomizer doesn't need to, because its filler material functions as a seal.
Thanks.Good to know. I thought I was doing it wrong. Do you have any tips on how to fix a locking ring that is stuck? I have tried putting it in the freezer over night but it didn't help.
I suppose you put it out from the freezer and tried to open it under a tap with hot water, or not? It needs a good grip at the end.
If you cannot open it by any means, send us an email.
AWESOME, thank you. I knew I was doing something wrong, just didn't know what. Much appreciated, Perseas.
This is a great tip and should work.
If not, As I have mentioned a set of(or at least one) soft grip pliers is a must in our tool kits such as these
Professional Soft Jaw Pliers - Soft Jaw Pipe Pliers - Amazon.com
These will set your free from nicks and scratching of attys and tubes
^^ I'd also add that a drop or two of machine oil (I use the stuff that came with my Andes hair clippers) in the lock ring threads and flat side will prevent future lock ups.
Gave it another shot with tools and oil and finally fixed it. Thanks for the tips!
Man, I'm having the same issue with the locking switch on my new lux. I can't lock it. It was OK for a few days and now I can't budge it. I've tried the freezer and hot water thing. Can't get the locking ring loose. Anyone have any other suggestions?
Perfect! I made a mistake once a while ago of using Noalox on the old style lock ring. Big mistake for finger flicking the ring lock to unlock and visa versa. Naolox may have its place in the world but it isn't in the PV world as some swear by. As, with regular maintenance we should not need it.
a bit of oil I would be afraid it also would seep into the threads and prevent the rings to perform how they were designed, to "flick".
I now disassemble my switches occasionally and apply a small amount of paste wax(as for a vehicle), let it dry and polish all flat metal on metal and even the brass axis on the button.
As you know there is no reason to ever crank it tight locked or unlocked.
Very nice.
Def Ian, spray it down with WD40 and let it sit or as Jas mentioned oil it - make sure you get a few drops into the backside around the nut. I prefer hot soapy water and let it soak as the oil is a pita to clean up. For giggles take the nut off the back(reverse threaded) and remove the spring and button and add a bit of oil around the axis hole into the threading.
Let it sit.
When replacing nut on the axis, you will notice the nut has different looking openings, place the nut so the side that looks "cupped" down and the flat side up. The button axis should protrude the nut by 1 mm. The threaded end of the axis is all that needs to contact battery, so check your nuts
The other way and the nut sits on top of the axis or flat on the axis and it causes the button to stick occasionally or the button to sit past the bottom of the ring and cause a button firing when sitting.
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It's just a matter of getting a good grip, from my experience at least. Just grab some electrical tape and cover the locking ring. The added grip from the electrical tape should help to loosen it.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm soaking it right now. I pulled out the electrical tape too. The ring isn't reverse threaded or anything is it? The bottom of the button (non locking ring piece) should be turned counter clockwise to loosen, correct?
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