GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

[Kataphraktos]

I have an Ithaka coming in, and Spheroid is next on my list.

I use the Scuba Diver and the kayfun 3.1ES. I prefer heavier juices in the Diver (Pluid, Maha Ras, VCV Mewlews Magic) but the lighter, more subtle juices (Ahlusion Lemon Cream, Blueberry Vanilla Cake) are better in the kayfun. I tried Pluid in the Kayfun, and did not care for it much, and the lighter juices were good in the Diver, just better in the Kayfun. The Kayfun brings out flavors more, which is not a good thing with a juice like Pluid.

I call bullshti on this brother! you know a thing or two, I've taken note of that.



2 completely different vapes. They are both very nice. I can compare genny to genny or dripper to dripper, etc. but, they are two different delivery systems to me. I enjoy the diver quite a bit as once set up properly there is very little to no maintenance and the vape is a cleaner taste. Believe it or not the tank has a role on its own as well.
My lites are nice and producers but occasionally the dry hit or leak out of the blue, filling can be a pita. But I like both of mine.
The diver tends to have none of these issues and I have seen long time vapers give up many attys for a diver.
Actually, a better comparison would be Spheroid to Kayfun....imo Spheroid wins hands down. The best flavor ever, leaks are impossible,
I can drip it or use it as a genny, mass vapor production, ease of set up, easy to maintain.
Im not just saying this because the question was asked on the this thread. I have been asked privately the same question and I answer the same.
Enjoy

 

[curisu]

The best way is make sure the nut is "cup down" and install. Then get some needle nose pliers and give a couple swift sharp counter clockwise turns while holding the button from spinning. This happens once in a blue moon but very little since I started that. There is a very light weight lock tite(not the permanent type) that may work but I wouldn't recommend it as cleaning is more important to me.

If you slip with the needle nose pliers, you'll scratch the gold plating (assuming a LUX). Using either a 9mm or 5/16" socket, will do the job without the risk of damaging the contact.

I can get the nut snugged down just fine - i use an 8mm socket, no wrench. My issue is two-fold:
If i snug it down hand-tight, the button travel goes to hell - like <0.5mm travel. I can't rightly tell if i'm pushing it down until i hear hissing from the atomizer.

And if i leave it "loose" enough to get factory travel (~1mm), the nut works its way loose during a 1/2 day of use.

Rock and a hard-place it seems

I'll try the replacing battery from top-cap method and cross my fingers. Else, I may use so teflon tape or something impermanent to keep it from spinning. The nut itself doesn't seem to do any conducting - the button/bolt contacts the battery if it's slightly proud of the locking nut. Perseas can chime in here if that's by design or if i'm mistaking something.

thanks for the suggestions

 

[wiizy]

thanks I actually watched a review of the Spheriod and it looks pretty awesome

2 completely different vapes. They are both very nice. I can compare genny to genny or dripper to dripper, etc. but, they are two different delivery systems to me. I enjoy the diver quite a bit as once set up properly there is very little to no maintenance and the vape is a cleaner taste. Believe it or not the tank has a role on its own as well.
My lites are nice and producers but occasionally the dry hit or leak out of the blue, filling can be a pita. But I like both of mine.
The diver tends to have none of these issues and I have seen long time vapers give up many attys for a diver.
Actually, a better comparison would be Spheroid to Kayfun....imo Spheroid wins hands down. The best flavor ever, leaks are impossible,
I can drip it or use it as a genny, mass vapor production, ease of set up, easy to maintain.
Im not just saying this because the question was asked on the this thread. I have been asked privately the same question and I answer the same.
Enjoy

 

[perseas]

I can get the nut snugged down just fine - i use an 8mm socket, no wrench. My issue is two-fold:
If i snug it down hand-tight, the button travel goes to hell - like <0.5mm travel. I can't rightly tell if i'm pushing it down until i hear hissing from the atomizer.

And if i leave it "loose" enough to get factory travel (~1mm), the nut works its way loose during a 1/2 day of use.

Rock and a hard-place it seems

I'll try the replacing battery from top-cap method and cross my fingers. Else, I may use so teflon tape or something impermanent to keep it from spinning. The nut itself doesn't seem to do any conducting - the button/bolt contacts the battery if it's slightly proud of the locking nut. Perseas can chime in here if that's by design or if i'm mistaking something.

thanks for the suggestions

The travel of the button isn't 1 mm, it is 0.5-0,8 mm. As you see, the whole switch depends on tenths of mm in order to work flawlessly, a bit more or less and it doesn't feel right. I'll send you a new switch today and return us the old one when you receive it.

 

[kiba]

I can get the nut snugged down just fine - i use an 8mm socket, no wrench. My issue is two-fold:
If i snug it down hand-tight, the button travel goes to hell - like <0.5mm travel. I can't rightly tell if i'm pushing it down until i hear hissing from the atomizer.

And if i leave it "loose" enough to get factory travel (~1mm), the nut works its way loose during a 1/2 day of use.

Rock and a hard-place it seems

I'll try the replacing battery from top-cap method and cross my fingers. Else, I may use so teflon tape or something impermanent to keep it from spinning. The nut itself doesn't seem to do any conducting - the button/bolt contacts the battery if it's slightly proud of the locking nut. Perseas can chime in here if that's by design or if i'm mistaking something.

thanks for the suggestions

sounds to me like you may have cranked the nut down too far with that socket, brass is soft as I keep saying and you have to be careful with it, anyways now it might of threaded itself down too far giving you a very short throw. Good news is there are lux button upgrades available, that will replace the parts you need.

○ Sent from my GS4 using Tapatalk 4

 

[hammer of the gods]

I just got my paps it's my first mod and I bought some cheap trustfire batteries and they are too long did I get some weird batteries or can you not use button top in a paps?

 

[kiba]

yeah I dont know but never heard anything good about trustfire, you could try prying the button top off... in the future, aw's for 18350/490, mnke's for 18650 is what I find works best.


○ Sent from my GS4 using Tapatalk 4

 

[BlackBag]

I have them set up quite differently at the moment so I really cannot tell. My diver was in another tank and had been put away for some weeks now. I just grabbed it and without changing anything I installed it into the S/P tank. The diver is/was set up with 1/32 nextel and at 2.1 ohms. I need to change this setup! I've set the KF up with Ekowool and my coil is 1.0 ohms. I usually vape a pretty mild peach DIY and it tastes very good in the KF setup the way I currently have it although I'm going to build the next coil closer to 1.3 ohms.

I think Idaho said it very well and he has been at this far longer than I so I tend to read his posts a LOT and his thoughts and advise are usually spot on. Now I just need to get off my duff and build my spheroid as his posts suggest..

how is the diver compared to the kf lite

 

[jasl90]

I just got my paps it's my first mod and I bought some cheap trustfire batteries and they are too long did I get some weird batteries or can you not use button top in a paps?

You shouldn't be using protected LiCo batteries in any e cig. It's not the nipple top that's causing the problem. It's the protection board.
DO NOT remove the protection board to make it fit. Using an unprotected LiCo battery is flat out dangerous.

You should be using good quality, high drain, LiMn chemistry batteries. Why would you spent the $ on a top quality mech mod and cripple it by using inferior batteries? Batteries ARE NOT the place to skimp.

 

[jasl90]

I call bullshti on this brother! you know a thing or two, I've taken note of that.

Very kind of you to say. Unfortunately a good portion of what I've learned was learned the hard way.

One such lesson... Me + smooth jaw pliers + soft metals + twisting motions = gouges & scratches. Plus, there's the fact that my brain knows that nut is reveres threaded but insists on making at least 1 attempt to loosen the nut by going counterclockwise, every time I disassemble the switch. That's when the slips occur.

 

[aailysm]

any news about coming batch for gp paps?i missed the last batch

 

[qorax]

You shouldn't be using protected LiCo batteries in any e cig. It's not the nipple top that's causing the problem. It's the protection board.
DO NOT remove the protection board to make it fit. Using an unprotected LiCo battery is flat out dangerous.

You should be using good quality, high drain, LiMn chemistry batteries. Why would you spent the $ on a top quality mech mod and cripple it by using inferior batteries? Batteries ARE NOT the place to skimp.

Well said except that 'any' part. There's nothing wrong with 'protected' ICRs on a Mech.Mod if they fit. I use 'protected' Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh* and they are the longest lasting ones on my Paps. Yes, we shouldn't be using a 'protected' battery on a VV/VW Mod.

However, it's wise to stick to the IMRs, especially the AWs b'coz most modders have designed their Mods based on those dimensions. And for these Mech.Mods, since all come in the minimum possible sizes, avoiding 'nipple top' batteries is wise. I use Efest and AWs ('flat tops') in the 18350 and 18500 modes and I find both perform similarly and last as long as the other.
________________________________________________________
*Type "hoosiervapes" in those ............

 

[Kataphraktos]

So will Mr. Spheroid be making an appearance this week?

 

[jasl90]

Well said except that 'any' part. There's nothing wrong with 'protected' ICRs on a Mech.Mod if they fit. I use 'protected' Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh* and they are the longest lasting ones on my Paps. Yes, we shouldn't be using a 'protected' battery on a VV/VW Mod.

However, it's wise to stick to the IMRs, especially the AWs b'coz most modders have designed their Mods based on those dimensions. And for these Mech.Mods, since all come in the minimum possible sizes, avoiding 'nipple top' batteries is wise. I use Efest and AWs ('flat tops') in the 18350 and 18500 modes and I find both perform similarly and last as long as the other.
________________________________________________________
*Type "hoosiervapes" in those ............

The topic of batteries in e cigs could easily be it's own sub-forum. I'll always recommend high drain LiMn batteries in any ecig for 2 simple reasons... #1) They are able to deliver higher voltages under load than LiCo batteries. #2) They are safe and they don't need to rely on a pcb to be safe.

I agree that making blanket statements that involve the use of "always" & "never", should be avoided because there will certainly be exceptions to the rule... But... I can't think of a single instance where recommending good quality high drain batteries turned out to be "bad" advise.

 

[Idaholandho]

The travel of the button isn't 1 mm, it is 0.5-0,8 mm. As you see, the whole switch depends on tenths of mm in order to work flawlessly, a bit more or less and it doesn't feel right. I'll send you a new switch today and return us the old one when you receive it.

The best switch and customer service in the business.

sounds to me like you may have cranked the nut down too far with that socket, brass is soft as I keep saying and you have to be careful with it, anyways now it might of threaded itself down too far giving you a very short throw. Good news is there are lux button upgrades available, that will replace the parts you need.

○ Sent from my GS4 using Tapatalk 4

One of the smartest on ECF, listen close and take note....in pen.

I just got my paps it's my first mod and I bought some cheap trustfire batteries and they are too long did I get some weird batteries or can you not use button top in a paps?

Seriously? Lesson learned i hope. AW IMR, and make sure and cycle your batteries using the last one charged and putting fresh charged in the back of the line. Buy them in pairs. GL

yeah I dont know but never heard anything good about trustfire, you could try prying the button top off... in the future, aw's for 18350/490, mnke's for 18650 is what I find works best.
○ Sent from my GS4 using Tapatalk 4

I refer to my earlier Kiba post

I have them set up quite differently at the moment so I really cannot tell. My diver was in another tank and had been put away for some weeks now. I just grabbed it and without changing anything I installed it into the S/P tank. The diver is/was set up with 1/32 nextel and at 2.1 ohms. I need to change this setup! I've set the KF up with Ekowool and my coil is 1.0 ohms. I usually vape a pretty mild peach DIY and it tastes very good in the KF setup the way I currently have it although I'm going to build the next coil closer to 1.3 ohms.

I think Idaho said it very well and he has been at this far longer than I so I tend to read his posts a LOT and his thoughts and advise are usually spot on. Now I just need to get off my duff and build my spheroid as his posts suggest..

My KF is set up around 1.2 before use and gunks up to 1.3. I find myself generally there with all muh builds.
I know for a fact you know a thing or infinity!
I get lazy also. I tear down to clean something and let it sit a few days(longer) and grab another setup. This is what we pay for having many PVs. If we had just one PV, we know damn well it wouldnt sit on a table more that a few sips of beer before we rebuilt it!

You shouldn't be using protected LiCo batteries in any e cig. It's not the nipple top that's causing the problem. It's the protection board.
DO NOT remove the protection board to make it fit. Using an unprotected LiCo battery is flat out dangerous.

You should be using good quality, high drain, LiMn chemistry batteries. Why would you spent the $ on a top quality mech mod and cripple it by using inferior batteries? Batteries ARE NOT the place to skimp.

Couldnt agree more

Very kind of you to say. Unfortunately a good portion of what I've learned was learned the hard way.

One such lesson... Me + smooth jaw pliers + soft metals + twisting motions = gouges & scratches. Plus, there's the fact that my brain knows that nut is reveres threaded but insists on making at least 1 attempt to loosen the nut by going counterclockwise, every time I disassemble the switch. That's when the slips occur.

You know too much not to know too much. Already called it yesterday my friend!

any news about coming batch for gp paps?i missed the last batch

Perseas will announce his production release on this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...notifications-tips-tricks-updates-thread.html

He will most likely post it here on this thread but can get lost if you dont keep up with all the posts

 

[9ball_AJ]

I gotta say, I am more than impressed with the Paps SS v2.5. It's my first Paps 22mm device, and I am absolutely stunned at how well this thing is built. The feature set is incredible, it's absolutely stunning, and it performs better than I could have ever imagined. Perseas & Paps, you have earned yourself a fan!

 

[SoonerChris]

I gotta say, I am more than impressed with the Paps SS v2.5. It's my first Paps 22mm device, and I am absolutely stunned at how well this thing is built. The feature set is incredible, it's absolutely stunning, and it performs better than I could have ever imagined. Perseas & Paps, you have earned yourself a fan!

Ok, so what is on top of the Paps?

 

[9ball_AJ]

Ok, so what is on top of the Paps?

Kayfun Lite & Innovapor Tru Flow nickel plated aluminum tip...

 

[negrete35]

Ok, so what is on top of the Paps?

Kayfun Lite (K-Lite) with a Tru-flow style tip.

 

[SoonerChris]

Kayfun Lite & Innovapor Tru Flow nickel plated aluminum tip...

Kayfun Lite (K-Lite) with a Tru-flow style tip.

That's what I thought but the drip tip thru me for a loop. Thanks!